服装设计褶皱外文文献翻译最新译文

文献出处：N Umetani. Garment structural designing and pleat effects [J]. ACM Trans. Graph., 2015, 30(4): 90.

原文

Garment structural designing and pleat effects

Abstract

The research on the clothing wearing effect evaluation based on the subjective evaluation method, explore a kind of objective and quantitative evaluation method to describe the clothing on the pleat. Through analyzing the principle of image technology, design the clothing in image acquisition system, using image processing software for image processing, and the drape of clothing. This study garment sleeve parts of the pleat as an example to carry out the work, the drape on the sleeve image into grayscale curve, analyses the corresponding relation between gamma curve and pleat.

Keywords: structural design, pleating effect, evaluation index

Introduction

Clothing structure design is based on clothing, rendering it by cutting division, in the form of fabric, fabric pleating, joining together a series of process performance. It basically is to accurately grasp the effect of design, namely according to the structure characteristics of the clothing design renderings, determine the plane state of structure are measured.2d pattern and solid state of the corresponding relationship between the body and clothing itself the cooperate relationship between the various components and consistent state, and then combined with the characteristics of the clothing material and the characteristics of the craft, has designed a set of reasonable structure, have different specifications of the series, to lay a good foundation for the process design and clothing production. Therefore, clothing structure design is a bridge of art and technology, and process design and processing production preparation and protection.

Clothing structure design method has a lot of kinds, during which there is a difference between large and small. The same kind of style, the same kind of fabrics, clothing structure design method of using different made clothes on the model and the

garment effect might be different, so need in different structure design method of a costume effect evaluation, on the basis of various clothing structural design method in the comparison.

Clothing structure design basis of the human body

Clothing structure design is based on the human body, clothing for its formation, from the design, playing board, to sew, the overall ironing, are based on the human body. Clothes need to be able to adapt to the human body structure, and can make up for the inadequacy of the human body, and beautify the human body shape. This request of dressers not only possess fine sewing process, more important is fully understand and master the human body structure, the clothing modelling, as well as the relationship between human body and clothing such as knowledge, a comprehensive understanding of the structure of the human body, dynamic and static characteristics of the human body, and make use of the excellent cutting and sewing skills, modification and exaggeration, to rectify defects, beautify the effect of clothing style.

The relationship between clothing and human body, clothing should first cover have to meet the practical function. Early gown jacket is flat coated body, simple cylinder structure, it is a kind of embodiment of style, but it can't reflect the body curves. Later, the introduction of western clothing, made an enormous change in the costume history, from plane to three-dimensional clothing from now on, people began to study clothing structure on the basis of the human body structure. Through the use of provincial roads, make clothing more perfectly reflects the human figure, it is the aesthetic function of clothing, is also the modern clothing trends of the research.

Clothing is the length, size, its merits and broken the whole, different forms such as square, wide, and on the sewing process complexity, Jane, fine, coarse, but plus ca change, is inseparable from the basic condition of human body shape and physical activity. In clothing modelling design, before and after the paper, the layout of the collar and sleeves exquisite modelling is unified, coordinated and harmonious, and as the criterion in each part of the human body prototype form, make the crop science, fine sewing, aesthetically pleasing, and wearing form-fitting. “Wearing form-fitting",

refers to the specific amount of costume design, cutting, sewing skills should conform to the human body shape, show fashion figure, the best effect. The human body to constitute the clothing modelling beauty plays an important leverage.

The generation of clothing pleat

Rushing form design is the basis of visual expansion. Human visual sense to pleat cognitive derived from the cognitive skirt decorated side line. Side line is skirt act the role of sensory induction and abstraction of the form, rules of ruching produce order form, irregular ruching produce disordered form. Orderly form of circulation and repeated give a person with the feeling of calm and the expansion of the collect inside, this is a rational, calm the visual feelings. The various forms of garment hem shape irregular line, a messy disorderly recruit ACTS the role of design form, such as length, weight of rolling line in the form of. Skirt ruffles form in the plane design of clothing deviation from the conventional disorderly change, form an exciting visual points.

Clothing pleat is for aesthetic needs, artificial set some pleat on the items. Such as pleat and pleat the garment processing process on the surface of the arts and crafts. Have certain adornment sex, this kind of pleat is what we expected. Fabric on this kind of pleat is often referred to as "crepe", clothing on this man-made craft pleat is a kind of aesthetic embodiment.2 it is goods material influenced by all kinds of bad factors in the processing of pleat, this kind of pleat often influence the processing quality of the products and the beautiful, is don't want to produce in the process of production. Especially in the process of garment processing, an operator easily sew stitches of not neat, easy to produce bad pleat. Three is a costume on the human body, as a result of human movement tensile and bending deformation of the flexible fabric, produce pleat. Clothing production of pleat in the very great degree is closely related to the human body. The body's static and dynamic ever-present affects the dress effect, the surface of the clothing pleat changes constantly.

Passive, negative plait, bring certain negative influence to clothing. The second pleat bring certain obstacles to the products, we carry on the detection, prevention, and research has not. Currently there is very little research on the third cause of pleat,

the focus of this article is to evaluate objectively the garment in appearance, is also the formation of a costume surface pleat for objective evaluation and analysis.

Clothing as a kind of modern goods, have the function of the royal covering clothing, the cold, and can meet the needs of the people's life and work, to adapt to all kinds of manners, seasonal demand. The appearance of the clothing quality and wearing effect directly determine its sales in the market and location. With the improvement of people's living standard, people are not content with the simple body clothing apparel, but the pursuit of more high quality, comfortable, good image of the garment appearance. As clothing itself, its overall image not only with the design level, the use of the surface of the fabric quality, wearing comfort, quality, and clothing is closely related to the appearance of the effect after wearing. Factors directly affect the outcome of a costume is a costume caused by surface drape. Great impact on the pleat of the garment appearance beauty.

Clothing drape evaluation index

Grey value

The index can reflect distribution of wrinkle is the surface of a garment. Clothing formation pleat, the rendered image gray scale is not stable. Pleat area grey value small dents; drape projection area of grey value. Because the grey value itself is the color of the material, the influence of light source intensity and image processing, can't give direct information, but can be used for the first item (3) of the following indicators

Pleat number

The index can reflect the detection area, the number of the drape of clothing surface, can use the image curve of wave number (or trough), a wave (or trough) corresponds to a pleat. On the premise that the size of the image acquisition area, the greater the value of N, the more pleat number.

The depth of the pleat

The index can reflect the drape of clothing surface the most protruding part and the height of the concave part difference, can use the adjacent peaks and troughs of the region's biggest gray scale and minimum difference of gray, is used to evaluate

clothing pleat which is formed by the surface depth.

Pleat width

The index can reflect the size of the drape of clothing surface. The location of the distance between the adjacent two troughs valley (D) reflects the distance between adjacent pleats down concave part; the location of the distance between adjacent wave peaks (D) reflects the width between the adjacent pleats protruding parts.

Pleat evenness

Pleat uneven can from the size of the pleat and pleat the depth of the two aspects of evaluation.

Conclusion

From the subjective analysis of clothing appearance in drape effect, can see the different structure design methods, different fabrics and different pattern effects are wrinkle on the appearance of a garment. Pleat subjective evaluation from the garment body and the sleeves as you can see, garment body loose shirt ago plait is relatively small, the formation of culture fit shirts (ordinary fabrics) pleat of the base sample shirt, because the culture type prototype in the chest and back width is base sample is small, tight clothing than base samples, forms pleats more easily. Loose shirt sleeves plait is relatively small, the sample sleeve pleat more, because of the loose shirt sleeves is fat, it's not easy to pleat formation, or pleat number is less, the base sample sleeve is tight, the involved in easy to form a pleat. And adopts the cultural prototype is with ordinary fabric shirt and shirt pleat compared with soft fabrics, the formation of the pleat are also different.

译文

服装结构设计与褶皱效果

摘要

本研究在以往对服装的穿着效果的评价所采用的主观评价方法基础上，探索一种客观的、量化的评价方法来描述服装上的褶皱。通过对图像技术的原理分析，设计了服装穿着图象的采集系统，利用图像处理软件对服装的褶皱进行图像处理。本研究以服装袖子部位的褶皱为例开展了工作，将袖子图像上的褶皱转化成

灰度曲线，分析了图象灰度曲线与褶皱之间的对应关系。

关键词：结构设计，褶皱效果，评价指标

引言

服装结构设计是根据服装效果图，将其以织物、面料的形式通过裁剪分割、打褶、拼接表现的一系列过程。它主要是对服装款式设计的效果进行准确的把握，即根据服装款式效果图的结构特点，确定平面状态下的衣片结构线与立体状态的人体之间的对应关系以及服装自身各部件之间的配合关系和吻合状态，然后再结合服装材料的特性及工艺制作的特点，设计出一整套具有合理结构、不同规格的系列样板，为工艺设计和服装生产打下良好的基础。因此，服装结构设计是艺术与技术的沟通桥梁、也是工艺设计和加工生产的准备和保障。

服装结构设计方法有很多种，其间存在着大大小小的差异。同一种款式、同一种面料，采用不同的服装结构设计方法制作出来的服装在样板和成衣效果上可能有所不同，因而需要在对不同结构设计方法所得到的服装穿着效果进行评估的基础上，对各种服装结构设计方法进行比较。

服装结构设计的人体基础

服装的结构设计是以人体为依据的，服装就其形成来看，从设计、打板，到缝制、整体熨烫，都是依据人体来进行的。服装要能适应人体的结构，并能弥补人体的不足、美化人体外形。这就要求服装师不仅具备精细的缝制工艺，更重要的是充分认识和掌握人体结构、服装造型以及人体与服装的关系等知识，全面了解人体的结构、人体的动态及静态特征，并运用高超的裁剪及缝制技艺、修饰与夸张的手法，达到矫正体形缺陷、美化服装外观造型的效果。

就服装与人体的关系来看，服装首先要具有满足遮体的实用功能。早期的长衫马褂是平面的包覆人体，简单的筒式结构，这固然是一种风格的体现，但不能体现人体的曲线美。后来，西方服饰的引入，在服装史上产生了巨大的变革，服装从此从平面走向立体，人们开始依据人体结构来研究服装结构。通过省道的运用，使服装更完美地体现人体体形，这是服装的美学功能，也是现代服装研究的趋向。

服装虽有长短、大小、曲直、碎整、方圆、宽紧等不同形态以及在缝制工艺上的繁、简、精、粗之分，但万变不离其宗，即离不开人体体形及身体活动的基

本条件。在服装造型设计中，前、后衣片，领子与袖子的布局讲究造型统一，协调和谐，并以人体原形各部位形态为准绳，使裁剪科学，缝制精细，造型美观，穿着合体。所谓“穿着合体”，是指具体的服装设计、量体裁剪、缝纫技艺都应符合人的体形，显示出服装形体美的最佳效果。人体对构成服装造型美起着重要的杠杆作用。

服装褶皱的产生

褶饰形态设计是视觉扩张的基础。人对于褶的视觉感观认知来源于裙饰边形线条的认知。边形线条是裙饰感官形态的归纳与提炼,规则的褶饰产生有序形,不规则褶饰产生无序形。有序形的循环与重复给人以平静与内敛的扩张感,这是一种理性、冷静的视觉情感。服装不规则褶边形线条的形式多样,有凌乱的乱招饰图案形式,有长短、轻重的起伏线的形式等。裙饰边形在服装的平面款式中产生了偏离常规的无序变化,形成令人兴奋的视觉点。

服装褶皱一是出于美观需要，人为的在物品上设置一些褶皱。比如工艺品表面的褶皱及服装加工中的工艺褶皱。这类的褶皱具有一定的装饰性，是我们所期望的。面料上这种褶皱通常被称为“绉”，服装上这种人为的工艺褶皱是一种审美的体现。二是物品材料在加工中受到各种不良因素的影响而产生的褶皱，这种褶皱往往影响产品的加工质量及美观，是生产过程中不希望产生的。特别是在服装加工过程中，不熟练的操作工容易将缝线缝的不整齐，易产生不良的褶皱。三是服装穿着在人体上，由于柔性面料的弯曲变形、人体运动拉伸而产生褶。服装褶皱的产生在很大程度上是与人体密切相关的。人体的静与动无时无刻不在影响着着装效果，服装的表面褶皱也随之变化不断。

被动的、消极的褶，给服装带来一定的负面影响。第二种褶皱给产品带来一定的障碍，我们对其进行检测、预防研究一直都没有间断过。目前对第三种原因产生的褶皱研究非常少，本文的重点是对服装穿着外观效果进行客观评价，也就是对服装穿着时形成的表面褶皱进行客观评价及分析。

服装作为一种现代商品，具有遮身蔽体、防寒御冷的功能，并能满足人们的生活、工作需要，适应各种礼仪、季节需求。服装质量的好坏及穿着时的外观效果直接决定其在市场上的销售量与定位。随着人们生活水平的提高，人们不在满足于简单的遮身蔽体的服装，（完整译文请到百度文库）而是更多的追求高质量、

穿着舒适、外观形象良好的服装。作为服装本身而言，它的整体形象不仅与设计水平、所使用的面料质量、穿着舒适性、表面质量有关，还与服装穿着后的外观效果有着密切的联系。直接影响服装穿着效果的因素就是服装穿着时引起的表面褶皱。这些褶皱的产生极大的影响了服装的外观美感。

服装褶皱评价指标

灰度值

该指标能够反映的是服装表面褶皱分布情况。服装形成褶皱时，呈现的图像灰度是不稳定的。褶皱凹进去的区域灰度值小；褶皱凸出的区域灰度值大。由于灰度值本身受到材料的颜色、光源强度和图像处理情况的影响，不能给出直接的信息，但是可以用于下述第（3）项指标

褶皱数

该指标能够反映检测区域中服装表面形成的褶皱的数量，可以用图像曲线中波峰（或波谷）的个数来表示，一个波峰（或波谷）就对应着一个褶皱。在图像采集区域大小一定的前提下，N 值越大，褶皱数越多。

褶皱深度

该指标能够反映服装表面形成的褶皱最凸出部分和最凹陷部位的高度差值，可以用相邻波峰和波谷的区域最大灰度和最小灰度的差值，用来评价服装表面所形成的褶皱深度。

褶皱宽度

该指标可以反映服装表面形成的褶皱的大小。相邻的两波谷之间的位置间距（D谷）反映的是相邻褶皱下凹部位之间距离；相邻的两波峰之间的位置间距（D 峰）反映的是相邻褶皱凸出部位之间的宽度。

褶皱均匀度

褶皱不匀可以从褶皱的大小和褶皱的深度两个方面进行评价。

结论

从对服装外观穿着褶皱效果的主观分析，可以看到不同的结构设计方法、不同面料及不同款式都对服装外观褶皱效果产生影响。从对衣身及袖子的褶皱主观评价可以看到，宽松衬衫前衣身的褶相对较少，文化合体衬衫（普通面料）的形成褶较基样衬衫的褶多，因为文化式原型的前胸宽和背宽都较基样小，服装比基

样紧，较易形成皱褶。宽松衬衫袖子的褶相对较少，基样的袖子褶皱相对较多，因为宽松衬衫的袖子较肥，不容易形成褶皱，或褶皱条数比较少，基样的袖子较紧，较受牵扯容易形成褶皱。还有，同是采用文化原型的普通面料衬衫与软面料衬衫的褶相比，其形成的褶皱也是不同的。