纺织品黄变色牢度的标准与测试(玛莎标注)

C20B SEPTEMBER 2007

C20B P1 of 3

Marks & Spencer

534/033INVESTIGATIVE METHOD OF TEST

ELUSIVE/REVERSIBLE YELLOWING:COURTAULDS METHOD PURPOSE T o assess the potential of white and pastel fabrics/textile

components to yellow due to contamination by stearically

hindered phenols.This method was developed by Courtaulds

Research.

This test is to be carried out on fabric which has not yellowed.SCOPE The test is specific to phenolic yellowing,that is the

discolouration of textiles due to a reaction between oxides of

nitrogen (NO x ) and yellowing phenols (present in storage

materials and fabric finishes).It is not intended to deal with

other causes of discolouration such as Optical Brightening

Agents deposits,oxidation of fabric lubricants etc.

APPARATUS 1.Supply of glass plates each measuring 100mm x 40mm x

3mm (see Equipment List Ref.13X/24AM).See note 1(i).

2.Supply of impregnated papers measuring 100mm x 75mm

(see Equipment List Ref.13X/24AM).See note 1(ii).

3.Supply of thick Butyl Hydroxy T oluene (BHT) free

polythene 63m (see Equipment List Ref.13X/24AM).

4.Supply of adhesive tape.

5.

Incubator/oven capable of maintaining 50oC ± 3oC.TEST SPECIMEN (See note 2).

Fabric

Avoid fabric with 50mm of https://www.360docs.net/doc/bd17278523.html,ing a ruler and scissors

and without marking the fabric,cut two single layers of fabric

each measuring 100mm x 30mm.This will give duplicate

specimens.

Narrow Fabrics/Strapping Ribbon

Single strip of material measuring 100mm in length.

Motifs

For motifs measuring less than 30mm at widest point,take two

specimens.T ake a single specimen for motifs larger than 30mm.

CONTROL

100mm x 30mm known to give a positive result.

FABRIC

C20B Marks & Spencer

METHOD 1.Fold one sheet of impregnated paper along its long axis

and insert a specimen between the layers of paper.

If two motifs are being tested they should be placed side

by side along the longer axis.

2.Place the sandwich on a glass plate and cover with a

second glass plate.Further layers may be built up provided

each paper and specimen are separated from the next

by a glass plate,up to five specimens (see note 3),

i.e.seven glass plates.

3. A test package should consist of five specimens plus

control with seven plates.If less than five specimens are

tested still use seven plates.

4.Wrap the assembly completely in the polythene to

produce a firm,tightly wrapped package,so that the plate

assembly is wrapped three times.Seal all the edges with

adhesive tape.

5.Place package ON ITS SIDE (that is with plates

perpendicular to the shelf) in the incubator for

16 hours at 50oC ± 3oC.

6.Remove package from incubator and allow to cool to room

temperature before unwrapping.

MOUNTING Fold the specimen to give a double-thickness and mount on

AND white card using staples.Mount a similar piece of untested

ASSESSMENT fabric so that they are butting but not overlapping and any

surface effects are in the same direction.Immediately assess

the degree of yellowing using grey scales for assessment of

staining as described in Methods of T esting C2 ‘Mounting and

Visual Assessment of T est Pieces from Colour Fastness T ests’.

REPORT Recording the staining.

IMPORTANT:For the result to be valid the control fabric

must show yellowing.If not the test is invalid and should be

repeated.

INTERPRETATION OF RESULTS

A result of grade 4/5 should ensure complete protection against

elusive phenolic yellowing,however this is difficult to achieve.

An average result of 4,with no result worse than 3/4 is believed

to be acceptable.Please check these results with the

Marks and Spencer technologist.

SEPTEMBER 2007C20B P2 of 3

534/033

C20B SEPTEMBER 2007C20B P3 of 3

Marks & Spencer

534/033NOTES 1.(i)

Glass plates These must be washed between each use.(ii)Impregnated papers

On receipt these should be stored wrapped in

aluminium foil in a sealed container,preferably a

glass jar.

These papers are not reusable.

2.Several specimens should be tested from each batch of

fabric,strapping or motif.The specimens should be

selected across the batch so as to be representative of the

complete lot,e.g.10%.

3.Where more than five specimens are to be tested,separate

batches of specimens and glass plate packages should be

prepared.Each package must include a control fabric.

More than one package may be tested at any one time.

4.

The degree of yellowing must be assessed immediately

after unwrapping,as with exposure to air the degree of

yellowing may decrease.Although this information is given in good faith,Marks and Spencer p.l.c.,accepts no responsibility for any accidents which may occur when carrying out the above test or when handling or using any of the chemicals mentioned.Y ou are responsible for

ensuring your employee’s safety and are accordingly required to exclusively on your own technical advisors.

Replaces:Investigative Method of T est ‘Elusive/Reversible Y ellowing:

Courtaulds Method’October 2004.