ECO-LEATHER MARK CERTIFICATE GUIDELINE 真皮标志生态皮革证书认证标准

ECO-LEATHER MARK CERTIFICATE GUIDELINE

真皮标志生态皮革证书认证标准（英文版）

The regulations of the Genuine Leather Mark

Chapter One

General Principles

Article One: To maintain the credit of genuine leather products that are provided at home and abroad market, protect the rights and interests of consumers and enterprises and cultivate a sound environment for leather market, based on the People's Republic of China Trade Mark Law and the People's Republic of China Commodities Quality Law, the regulations of Genuine Leather Mark (GLM) is established.

Article Two: The GLM is a certificated trademark that registered in International Trade Organization and National Bureau of Administration for Commerce and Industries, which indicates the excellent material, quality and after-sales service of leather products, and it was protected by law and registered internationally.

Article Three: China Leather Industry Association (CLIA), as the register of GLM, reserved the exclusive right for this trademark.

Article Four: Based on voluntary principle and guaranteed by the standards GLM, CLIA accepts the applications from the companies dealing in leather products. The companies will be permitted to use GLM if their products reach the standard and the GLM usage contract was signed.

Article Five: Directed and supervised by National Bureau of Administration for Commerce and Industries and the General Administration of Quality Supervision，Inspection and Quarantine of China, CLIA is responsible for examination and implementation of GLM products that represent the third-party impartiality.

Chapter Two

Requirements for the Genuine Leather Mark Products

Article Six: The GLM is used on products made by genuine leather and fur, including leather shoes, sport shoes, leather garments, leather goods, etc. that are defined to be leather products.

Article Seven: Companies registered in China with commitment of civil obligation and producing and/or trading in leather products have the rights to apply to use

the GLM.

Article Eight: GLM is the symbol of the high quality genuine leather products that possess the rights to use it as follows:

(1) The main material of the GLM products should be genuine leather and fur. Other materials can be used according to the proportion standard specified in Genuine Leather Mark Technical Handbook.

(2) GLM products should be with delicate process, and be good quality products.

(3) The GLM products should meet national and industry standards and the requirements of the Genuine Leather Mark Technical Handbook.

Article Nine: All applicants for GLM have to fulfill the following requirements: (1) The company should have at least two years experience in producing and/or trading in leather products.

(2) The company that producing and/or trading in leather products should build the quality control system according to the standard of GB/T 19000 (ISO-9000 series).

(3) The company should have an efficient after-sales service system.

(4) The production quantity of the company should reach the specification.

(5) The company should have advanced technology and comprehensive testing methods.

Article Ten: If the company’s GLM usage right is abolished because of default, the company may reapply it after the quality of its products has been stable and they meet the requirements of Article Eight and Article Nine after three years rectification and improvement. But it is not allowed to reapply for the same product of a certain company more than twice.

Chapter Three

The Process of Applying the Genuine Leather Mark

Article Eleven: The company applying for GLM should fill the form of Application Form for Using the Genuine Leather Mark in accordance with Article Six.

Article Twelve: The company applying for GLM should submit the following documents together with Application Form for Using the Genuine Leather Mark: (l) A copy of industrial and commercial registration certificate;

(2) A copy of trademark registration certificate;

(3) A copy of product quality inspecting reports (within half a year since the application date);

(4) A copy of award certificates, technology invention certificates, patent right obtained at home and abroad;

(5) Certificate or Recommendation of products quality and economic returns from

the local governments or relevant departments;

Article Thirteen: CLM Management Office of CLIA should examine the submitted documents in accordance with Article Six to Article Twelve.

Article Fourteen: The company that cannot pass the formal examination may reapply within two months after they are informed by CLIA, and it is not allowed to reapply within one year if they fail twice.

Article Fifteen: Since the application is received, the following work should be done by CLIA within three months.

(l) Formal Examination: the GLM Management Office should do Formal examination.

(2) Field Survey: GLM Management Office should invite experts or commission relevant groups to conduct a field survey for the company in accordance with Article Nine.

(3) Overall Appraisal: The GLM Management Office should submit the information of the companies that passed the Formal Examination and Field Survey to CLIA to make a overall appraisal.

(4) The GLM Management Office will send the result to the applicants and require them to:

(a) Sign the contract to use the GLM;

(b) Pay the relevant fee;

(c) Receive the Certificate of GLM;

(d) Order the GLM Label for the products;

(5) Proclamation: The company that signed the GLM Usage Contract, received GLM Usage Certificate and completed the whole procedure listed in (4) will be proclaimed by CLIA on the public media.

Chapter Four

Rights of the Genuine Leather Mark Products

Article Sixteen: The GLM can be used on sales of the GLM Products, which are protected by law of the registered country.

Article Seventeen: CLIA takes the responsibility for coordination and arbitration when disputes about the technology and quality of the GLM products happened; CLIA accepts any complaints about GLM products from customers.

Article Eighteen: The GLM products have the priority of take part in any domestic and overseas activities of economic, trading and technology organized or

co-organized by CLIA.

Article Nineteen: The GLM can be used to certify the quality level in any local and overseas economic, trading and technological activities.

Article Twenty: The companies using the GLM have the priority of take part in any activities involved in the GLM and enjoy the services from CLIA.

Article Twenty-one: CLIA collects and analyzes the quality and sales information of GLM products, and feeds back the information to those companies and announce it on the public media to enlarge the GLM effect.

Article Twenty-Two: The pattern and explanation of the GLM are permitted to be print on the packing of the GLM products.

Chapter Five

The Obligation for the Genuine Leather Mark Products

Article Twenty-Three: The GLM product should carry GLM label during its sale in accordance with the Genuine Leather Mark Technical Handbook.

Article Twenty-Four: The trademark and model of the product that carry the GLM label should be the same as the certificated ones, and the company should re-apply in accordance with Article Eleven if the trademark of the GLM product changed. The other serial products of the company should apply for the usage expansion of GLM, relevant rules for such cases has been made by CLIA.

Article Twenty-Five: The company using the GLM label should accept the inspections from CLIA or the commissioned groups. The cost of inspection will be offered by CLIA. Inspections include the quality of product, enterprise production system and after-sales service.

Article Twenty-Six: Companies using the GLM have the following obligations: (1) Produce and examine the GLM products according to the relevant national and industry standards and the Genuine Leather Mark technology handbook.

(2) Set up the quality control data record of the GLM products.

(3) Make sure the production quantity of the GLM products reach the specified standard.

(4) The companies using GLM and the distributors should take joint responsibility for after-sales services.

(5) The company should order and use the GLM label in schedule in accordance with the contract of GLM.

(6) The company should cooperate with CLIA to promoting GLM and enlarging its

marketing shares actively.

Article Twenty-Seven: There should be a person specially assigned for GLM work whose record should be kept in CLIA. He/she is committed by the CLIA to supervise the use of the mark and ensure that it is not lose control, impropriated or lapsed.

Article Twenty-Eight: The GLM using company cannot produce, convey, sell or devise the GLM label privately.

Article Twenty-Nine: The company using the GLM label should indicate the types of genuine leather (such as pig leather, sheep leather, cattle leather etc.) that are used in the GLM products clearly.

Article Thirty: The packing printed with the GLM label can only be used for the GLM products. The GLM is unique identification for GLM products.

Chapter Six

Management of the Genuine Leather Mark

Article Thirty-One: In order to guarantee the normal operation of the GLM, CLIA builds the management system including the GLM Management Office, the GLM Product Inspection Committee, which takes responsibility for controlling and managing the GLM.

Article Thirty-Two: CLIA is the supreme appraisal organization for GLM.

CLIA takes responsibility for formulating and revising the regulations of the GLM and the working rules, and assessing product qualification for using the GLM, CLIA also takes responsibility for investigating cases of the fake mark and other problems.

Article Thirty- Three: The Management Office for Genuine Leather Mark is the organization responsible for daily work of the GLM.

The Management Office carries out the CLIA’s strategic d ecisions and daily work, such as applicant examination, client reception, consultation reply, document management, report, and the print, distribution, management and accounts settlement of the GLM. The Office also coordinating disputes and other problems about the GLM, organizing the overall dynamic examination for GLM products, setting up the daily examination and annual survey system of the GLM, implying the reconfirmation of the GLM companies’ qualification every three years and ranking the main enterprises of the GLM companies every two years. The GLM Management Office will set up regional office if necessary.

Article Thirty-Four: The Inspection Committee of the GLM is the organization for technical appraisal, arbitration and consultation.

The Inspection Committee, based on relevant national and industrial standards and that of Genuine Leather Mark Technical Handbook, processes examination, arbitration and consultation.

Commissioned by CLIA, local governments should invite experts that mainly consist of GLM Inspection Committee members to do the field survey of GLM applicant. The CLIA is responsible for the qualification conformation and train of the experts.

Article Thirty-Five: State Leather Products Quality Supervision & Examination Center and State Footwear Quality Supervision & Examination Center, commissioned by CLIA, are the specified inspection organizations for GLM products. The quality supervision and inspection plan of GLM products is made solely by CLIA.

Article Thirty-Six: For assuring the scientificity, fairness and authority of the GLM, a comprehensive supervision system, with public participation, has been established by CLIA to strengthen the quality supervision and inspection.

Chapter Seven

Protection of the Genuine Leather Mark.

Article Thirty-Seven: The GLM is protected by relevant laws, and any counterfeit will be inspected and prosecuted by CLIA, and all units who offer evidence will be rewarded.

Article Thirty-Eight: Anyone who uses the counterfeit GLM will be reported and punished by the Department of Industrial and Commercial Administration in accordance with the Trademark Law.

Article Thirty-Nine: If a company using the GLM violates the regulations of the Law of the People's Republic of China on Product Quality, CLIA will terminate the agreement with the company for using the GLM.

Article Forty: If a company using the GLM violates the regulations of Chapter Five, CLIA will undertake the following actions: inspection for improvement, pause of GLM usage, agreement abolishing or even take legal action.

Chapter Eight

Supplement.

Article Forty-One: The standard of payment for the Genuine Leather Mark is regulated by CLIA, and is executed by the GLM Management Office.

Article Forty-Two: Payment for the GLM is regarded as a special fund for special purpose and mainly used for the examination, appraisal, supervision and quality inspection of the GLM products, and also for handling complaints about the GLM products, investigating cases about the GLM, promoting, protecting the reputation of the GLM products and the rights of companies and consumers. State finance and taxation departments will monitor the revenue of the GLM.

Article Forty-Three: The normal inspection rules of the GLM products is instituted by CLIA, and carried on by the GLM Management Office.

Article Forty-Four: On the basis of management of the GLM, CLIA makes out the scientific inspection standard to support main enterprises and carry out strategy of brands. The specific standards and programs are instituted by CLIA and carried out by the GLM Management Office.

Article Forty-Five: This regulation is a reference for leather, fur and relevant products applying for the GLM.

Article Forty-Six: This regulation is instituted by CLIA, and approved by the National Bureau of Administration for Commerce and Industries.

Article Forty-Seven: CLIA takes the responsibilities for explaining this regulation.

Specifications on Genuine Leather Mark Eco-Leather

Preface

According to the processing characteristics of leather manufacturing, the specification sets out regulations on various kinds of Genuine Leather Mark Eco-Leather mainly from following aspects:

1. To enable the domestic leather industry to adapt to international rules, apart from regulations on ordinary physical and chemical indexes of leather, the standard stressed regulations on hexavalent-chromium, forbidden azo-dyes, free formaldehyde, and PCP that possibly exist in leather.

2. The requirements for and testing method of ordinary physical and chemical indexes should follow corresponding industrial standards and national standards of QB/T 1872, QB/T 1873, QB/T 3812, and so on, and the sampling should follow regulations in QB/T 3812 while the testing method of special chemical indexes adopts relevant German standard and the sampling follows 5.2.1 of the specification hereby.

1. Subject Content and Scope of Application

The specification hereby regulates on product classification, technical requirements, experiment method, testing rules, mark, packaging, transport, and storage of all kinds of Genuine Leather Mark Eco-Leather.

The specification hereby is applicable to various kinds of grain leather which is tanned with various processes and tanning agents, including garment leather, shoe upper leather, furniture leather as well as glove leather , bags and cases leather, upholstery leather, etc.

2. Quoted Standard

The articles in following standards become those of the specification hereby through its quotation and the latest version of the quoted documents should be applicable to the specification hereby. As long as any national or industrial standard of other kind of leather in future will also be applicable to the specification hereby if the kind of leather is contained within the scope of Genuine Leather Mark Eco-Leather.

GB/T 4694 Packaging, Marking, Transporting, and storing of Finished Leather QB/T 3812 Testing Method of Physical and Chemical Properties of Finished Leather

QB/T 1872 Garment Leather

QB/T 1873 Shoe upper Leather

GB/T 16799 Furniture Leather

DIN 53313 Testing of PCP in Leather

DIN 53314 Testing of Hexavalent-chromium in Leather

DIN 53315 Testing of Formaldehyde in Leather

DIN 53316 Testing of Aromatic Amine in Leather

3. Classification of Leather

Classification of leather should be in accordance with industrial or national standards such as QB/T 1872, QB/T 1873, and GB/T 16799.

4. Technical Requirements

4.1. Ordinary Physical and Chemical Indexes and Organ Sense Requirements The ordinary physical and chemical indexes and organ sense requirements should conform to industrial or national standards such as QB/T 1872, QB/T 1873, and GB/T 16799, etc..

4.2. Special Chemical Indexes should Conform to the Requirements in Table 1. Table 1

Indexes Highest limit, mg/kg

Direct contact with skin Ordinary

Formaldehyde 75 150

CrⅥ5

PCP 5

23 kinds of aromatic amine

(refer to appendix table A.1) 30

5. Experiment Method

5.1. Ordinary Physical and Chemical Indexes as well as Appearance Inspection The sampling should follow QB/T 3812 while the testing of ordinary physical and chemical indexes and appearance inspection should follow QB/T 1872, QB/T 1873, and GB/T 16799.

5.2. Special Chemical Indexes

5.2.1. Sampling

Take leather sample in 20×25cm2 from side of finished leather for testing of special chemical indexes.

5.2.2. Testing of PCP content

Follow DIN 53313.

5.2.3. Testing of hexavalent-chromium

Follow DIN 53314.

5.2.4. Testing of formaldehyde

Follow DIN 53315.

5.2.5. Testing of azo-dyes content

Follow DIN 53316.

6. Inspection Rules

6.1. Ordinary Physical and Chemical Indexes

Batching and inspection should be made according to industrial standards or national standards such as QB/T 1872, QB/T 1873, and GB/T 16799, etc..

6.2. Special Chemical Indexes

The leather samples should, after passing inspection according to item 6.1, undergo inspection of special chemical indexes. If all of them conform to table 1, the batch of leather possesses the qualification for the mark of Genuine Leather Mark Eco-Leather.

6.3. Inspection

6.3.1. Inspection should be made in any of following conditions:

a) Significant change of process, chemicals, and leather kind;

b) Restart production after stop for long period

c) Relevant supervision units ask for inspection.

d) Inspection should be made once a year under normal production.

6.3.2. Sampling quantity

Three pieces should be chosen at random from each batch of leather for inspection.

6.3.3. Qualification judgment

6.3.3.1. Principle of judging one piece

First judge the qualification of ordinary physical and chemical indexes according to industrial standards or national standards such as QB/T 1872, QB/T 1873, and GB/T 16799, etc., then that of special chemical indexes. If ordinary physical and chemical indexes are qualified while special chemical indexes fail the specification, the samples should be retested. If the result still fails the specification hereby or shows serious defect affecting the use, this piece of leather should be judged unqualified.

6.3.3.2. Principle of batch judgment

Judge the qualification of ordinary physical and chemical indexes of the whole batch according to industrial standards or national standards such as QB/T 1872, QB/T 1873, and GB/T 16799 etc.. If ordinary physical and chemical indexes are qualified while the special chemical indexes of any one piece (or above) fail the specification, another six pieces should be taken for retesting. If the six pieces are all qualified, the batch of leather should be judged qualified.

7. Marking, Packaging, Transport, and Storage

Regulations in GB/T 4694 should be met. In addition, the mark of Genuine Leather Mark Eco-Leather should be stamped on the right flesh side of the butt of each piece of leather that qualified for the “Specification on Genuine Leather Mark Eco-Leather”.

Compiling Directions of “Specifications on Genuine Leather Mark Eco-Leather”

China has entered into World Trade Organization. To enhance the environmental protection consciousness of Chinese leather industry, promote industrial self-discipline, and continuously strengthen the international competitiveness of Chinese leather and products, China Leather Industrial Association decided to push out “Genuine Leather Mark Eco-Leather” from 2002, which consists of two basic documents: “Specifications on Genuine Leather Mark Eco-Leather” (“specifications” for short hereinafter), and “Implementing Rules on Genuine Leather Mark Eco-Leather” (“Rules” for short hereinafter).

When China Leather Industry Association registered certification trademark “Genuine Leather Mark” in National Industrial and Commercial Administration Bureau in 1994, the certification trademark covered natural leather and fur that was therefore within the scope of certification trademark “Genuine Leather Mark” and used this trademark. To differentiate from “Genuine Leather Mark” for leather products, the leather conforming to “Specifications” is described as “Genuine Leather Mark Eco-Leather” because its emphasis on the four special chemical indexes including formaldehyde, hexavalent chrome, pentachloraphenal (PCP) and azo dyes.

To do a better work, Chin a Leather Industry Association drew up “Rules” in 1996, and the draft of “Rules” were discussed three times at annual conference of Leather Making Commission and Leather Chemistry Commission from 1996 to 1999, so that it was further improved. In 1998, China Leather Industry Association formally introduced the concept of “Genuine Leather Mark Eco-Leather” at “Seminar on Leather Environmental Protection Technology” held in Beijing by UN that obtained good approval from environmental protection officials of UN such as J.Buljan. Zhang Shuhua, Vice Chairman of China Leather Industry Association, gave a speech about “Genuine Leather Mark Eco-Leather” at the International Environmental Protection Conference sponsored by UNIDO held in Morocco in 2000, which got uniform approval from the participants. The “Rules” was discussed and passed at the joint meeting of the four special commissions of leather-making, leather chemicals, fur, science and technology held in Beijing in Jun. 2001, and published to the whole industry at the Fourth Session of the Fourth Annual Congress of CLIA held in Shanghai in Sep. of the same year.

At the same time, China Leather Industrial Association started to draw up draft of “Specifications” from 2000, which is completed in Oct. 2001, and m ore than ten leather experts and scholars from nine colleges and leather institutes make a deep discussion on the concrete contents of the draft during “the First Seminar on

China Leather Technology in 21st Century”. The experts paid high attention to the draft and offered many precious proposals and supplementary comments. They uniformly figure out that it was necessary to formulate “Specifications” under current situation that would be significant to the transfer of China from a big leather country to a strong one and enhancing of the better image of China leather industry.

With the help from all circles and extensive material collection, arrangement, research, and verification, the draft of “Specification” was made out, then it was sent to some units such as National Leather Standardization Technology Committee, major tanneries and leather research units for examination at the end of Apr. 2002, then finally it was discussed and passed formally at National Leather Industry Summit Meeting held at the end of Jun of this year.

The specification combines the recommended requirements of international leather organization over leather quality, takes full consideration of the characteristics and current situation of domestic leather industry, and refers to or adopts domestic relevant standards and advanced foreign standards, such as German standards. Apart from ordinary physical and chemical indexes in current domestic standards of the leather industry, the specification also sets limitation on the amount of four kind of harmful chemical substances possibly existing in leather. Following are further directions on some contents of the specification:

1. In the “Specification”, the requirements for testing method of ordinary physical and chemical indexes should follow relevant industrial standards and national standards such as QB/T 1872, QB/T 1873, and GB/T 16799, etc..

2. According to the structure and processing characteristics of leather, the specification sets out limitation on possible hexavalent-chrome, certain azo-dyes, free formaldehyde, and PCP in leather. Although International Standardization Organization (ISO) has, by far, no uniform standard of testing these chemical substances, many countries have formulated their own testing method standards. German was early in this respect and started from 1980s research on chemical substances that usually exist in leather and possibly do harm to human bodies. Around 1990s, it drew up the testing method standards on PCP, certain azo-dyes, formaldehyde, and hexavalent-chromium. These method standards have been adopted in many countries and the testing results thus obtained were accepted in many countries or importers. At present, China has entered into WTO and its formulation of specifications should try to in accordance with international practice. Therefore, the relevant German method standards was adopted as the testing method standard for the four special chemical indexes mentioned above in this specification.

3. With regard to the limitation on chemical indexes in “Specification”, China

Leather Industry Association consulted numerous specialized testing companies both in China and abroad and obtained large amount of relevant information. Subsequently, 62 kinds of leather samples from 43 major tanneries in China were collected, and were sent to BLC which is a world famous institute in the field of leather testing for the testing of the four special chemical indexes, and further learned about the current conditions of China leather industry in this respect. On the basis of this, the regulations in the specification are able to conform to the requirements of world major leather import countries.

4. The latest version of the standards that quoted here will be adopted correspondingly in this specification. If the standard for any kind of leather which is contained in the scope of Genuine Leather Mark Eco-Leather comes out, it will also be applicable to the specification. The specification will adopt any international uniform standard for the testing method standard of special chemical index in future.

During the compilation of “Specification”, we obtain great support from National Leather Standardization Technical Committee, Science and Technology Commission of China Leather Industry Association, Sichuan University, Shaanxi University of Science and technology, Shandong Light Industry Institute, China Leather and footwear Industry Research Institute, State Leather Quality Supervision and testing Center, National Leather Product Quality Supervision and testing Center, ITS, UNIDO, BLC, LGR, as well as many leather and leather product manufacturers, and relevant people and hereby express our thanks.

China Leather Industry Association Compiling Group of “Specification on Genuine Leather Mark Eco-Leather”

Apr. 2002