怪物猎人3G攻略资料
Monster Hunter 3 Ultimate: FAQ/Walkthrough by CanWizard
Version: 1.00 | Last Updated: 2013-06-28 | View/Download Original File
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Monster Hunter 3 Ultimate - Beginner’s Guide and Walkthrough
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Game: Monster Hunter 3 Ultimate
System: Nintendo Wii U and Nintendo 3DS
Author: Steve Edwards
Contact: cerberusalchemist@https://www.360docs.net/doc/c24472515.html,
Current Version 1.00
Submitted on 6/28/13
Original Version 0.40
Submitted on: 4/20/13
This guide is the copyrighted property of Steve Edwards.
Licenced for use on https://www.360docs.net/doc/c24472515.html,, https://www.360docs.net/doc/c24472515.html,, and https://www.360docs.net/doc/c24472515.html,
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
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1. Introduction (100)
2. Useful Notes and Tips and Tricks (200)
Weapons and Weapon Types (201)
The Item Box (202)
Combining Items (203)
In-game Menus (204)
How to Prepare for a Fight (205)
How to Fight Large Monsters (206)
How to Capture Monsters (207)
Skills: Food and Armor (208)
Hunting Grounds (209)
The Forge (210)
3. Shakalaka Companions...[contributed by heavyacademic].. (300)
Fondness (301)
Shakalaka Menu Options (302)
Dances (303)
Masks (304)
FAQs (305)
4. Walkthrough Part 1 - Moga Village and Moga Woods (400)
Moga Village (401)
Freehunting in Moga Woods (402)
5. 1-Star Quests - Small Monsters (500)
Questing (501)
6. 2-Star Quests - Monsters (600)
Great Jaggi (601)
Arzuros (602)
7. 3-Star Quests - Big Monsters (700)
Qurupeco (701)
Royal Ludroth (702)
Barroth (703)
Gobul (704)
Great Wroggi (705)
8. 4-Star Quests - Bigger Monsters (800)
Great Baggi (801)
Rathian (802)
Lagiacrus (803)
Lagombi (804)
Gigginox (805)
9. 5-Star Quests - Even Bigger Monsters (900)
Duramboros (901)
Nibelsnarf (902)
Volvidon (903)
Rathalos (904)
Barioth (905)
Uragaan (906)
Ceadeus (907)
Purple Ludroth (908)
Diablos (909)
Agnaktor (910)
10. 6-Star Quests - Very Big Monsters (1000)
Crimson Qurupeco (1001)
Pink Rathian (1002)
Plesioth (1003)
11. 7-Star Quests - Incredibly Big Monsters (1100)
Jade Barroth (1101)
Baleful Gigginox (1102)
Jhen Mohran (1103)
12. 8-Star Quests - Ridiculously Big Monsters (1200)
Brachydios (1201)
Zinogre (1202)
13. 9-Star Quests - The Biggest Monsters (1300)
Sand Barioth (1301)
Nargacuga (1302)
Azure Rathalos (1303)
Black Diablos (1304)
Steel Uragaan (1305)
Glacial Agnaktor (1306)
Ivory Lagiacrus (1307)
Deviljho (1308)
Alatreon (1309)
14. Port Tanzia and the Arena (1400)
The Marina and Tavern (1401)
Port Quests (1402)
Goldbeard Ceadeus (1403)
Green Plesioth (1404)
Rust Duramboros (1405)
Green Nargacuga (1406)
Stygian Zinogre (1407)
Dire Miralis (1408)
Gold Rathian (1409)
Silver Rathalos (1410)
Lucent Nargacuga (1411)
Abyssal Lagiacrus (1412)
Hallowed Jhen Mohran (1413)
Savage Deviljho (1414)
Event Quests (1415)
The Arena (1416)
15. Online Etiquette (1500)
16. Version History and Contact Info and Special Thanks (1600)
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1. INTRODUCTION [100]
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Well hello, dear reader. Welcome to my Monster Hunter 3 (Tri) Ultimate walkthrough and beginner’s guide. Now I’ve never written one of these before but I felt that I had to do this to help all of the new players out there who may not know all everything that veterans take for granted and don't bother to explain even thought the success of this series depends on getting new players.
I think the veteran monster hunter players tend to assume that everyone already knows everything or else is an unredeemable noob. Let’s try to bridge that gap, shall we?
This guide assumes that you are new to Monster Hunter, a ‘beginner’ if you will, and aims to walk you through the single-player mode (the MOGA VILLAGE quests) by familiarizing you with the different functions of your home base, helping you prepare for battles by suggesting armor and items, and giving you tips for dealing with the dozens of big bad boss monsters you will have to fight. I am using the WiiU version of the game to collect info for this game, but the games are completely identical in solo content so this guide is
perfectly capable of guiding you through the 3DS version of the game. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves just yet. A little context is called for. Here are some hypothetical frequently asked questions a new player may want to ask:
a. What is Monster Hunter?
Monster Hunter is a video game series created by Capcom. It is said to be very popular in Japan and less popular overseas. These games have you play as a HUNTER who lives in a fantastical hunter-gatherer society made up of small human villages surrounded by a large wilderness populated with fierce MONSTERS. It’s an eat-or-be-eaten sort of world. Your goal is to hunt monsters because they threaten your village. You kill monsters, carve open their flesh, use
their bones and skin to make weapons and armor, and then use those weapons and armor to hunt bigger monsters.
b. What is Monster Hunter 3 (Tri) Ultimate?
Monster Hunter 3 Ultimate is the ‘ultimate’ version of the third generation of Monster Hunter. It was released for Nintendo 3DS and Nintendo WiiU on March 21, 2013. It is built on the foundation laid out by Monster Hunter Tri (Wii 2010) and Monster Hunter Portable 3rd (PSP 2010, Japan-only).
c. What is new in Monster Hunter 3 Ultimate that wasn’t in Monster Hunter Tri? Well that’s not what this guide is meant to cover, but the gist is that there are some new monsters, a lot of new MONSTER SUBSPECIES, some new weapon types, some new items, some new armors, and some updated graphics including HD
textures on the WiiU, 3D on the 3DS, and dynamic shadows in both versions.
Also there are new control methods and inputs based on the second screens of
the WiiU and 3DS. Unfortunately the motion controls from the Wii version have been scrapped, which I think is too bad because I enjoyed swinging my
controller as a sword to bring the pain down on some monster.
d. What is the difference between the 3DS and the WiiU versions?
Both versions feature all of the same single player content... hell, they even have the same multiplayer content. In fact the WiiU version is a port of the
3DS game. The WiiU version has the ability to connect to the internet so you
can hunt online with 3 people, friends or strangers, and this is super fun.
The 3DS version is able to connect with 3DSs or WiiUs in close proximity for LOCAL PLAY, which could be even more fun that playing online with strangers,
so long as you have some friends with their own systems and their own copy of the game and can meet up with them.
The WiiU gamepad also has a couple more buttons than the 3DS, including a second analogue stick for controlling the camera. Both versions have a second screen which can use a virtual d-pad to control the camera.
The 3DS version does have a 3D depth of field effect, which is actually a bit useful when you are fighting underwater and depth is otherwise hard to judge. e. Why is this game so difficult and frustrating?
It's doing that on purpose. This game wants you to fail. It's sort of self-defeating for the game to do this, after all, nothing stands in the way of getting fans more than turning off those people who have already bought the game. On the other hand, this difficulty is also a subtle trap to get you hooked to this game forever. For those people who take this difficulty as
a personal challenge to their skills and find a way to overcome it will experience a sense of triumph and satisfaction which is sorely lacking in
today's contemporary hand-holding interactive movie-ish games.
Monster Hunter is not shy about throwing you out in the wilderness and leaving you on your own to succeed or fail. It has no problem with making you fight
a difficult battle for fifty minutes and then saying 'time's up, you are a failure!' and making all of that effort and time a total waste. You are
fighting a game that wants to defeat you as much as you are fighting a particular monster that wants to defeat you. Again, this is all intentional, and the game is slyly trying to get you to look into its rpg item and armor systems, all the while lying down hooks to capture your interest.
The basic lesson in all of the difficulty is that any challenge can be overcome with some preparation. Even if your weapon is weak, you can still wear down and defeat monsters if you brought enough health items to keep you
in the fight long enough. If you go out of your way to buy some trap tools
and find some thunderbugs, you can make shock traps that will give you a small chance to turn a losing fight around, or capture a monster just before time expires. Eventually your efforts outside of battle will reward you with items and armors and skills that make even the toughest fights trivial, and that
is probably what makes this game so infinitely satisfying.
If you apply yourself to this game and uncover all of its little details and secrets, you can turn the whole game inside out. Those monsters that used to be unfathomly difficult or those game systems that used to be cruelly restrictive will be brought under heel and become your slaves. Eventually you and your friends will be gang-shaving monsters in five or ten minutes without breaking a sweat, and you will feel satisfied because you still have that dim memory
of when these fights could overwhelm you. And you just can't get that feeling if the fights and the game were never difficult to begin with.
This guide is written for those people who still find the game difficult, whose every battle goes down to the wire, who are constantly clining to life and depleting their stock of items in every battle. I want to make YOU into a monster hunting machine. And believe me, it can be done, IF you have a the dedication and the will.
f. That sounds hard. What is so fun about Monster Hunter, anyway?
I’ll be honest: this game is about grinding. It is about repeating the same fights over and over again to collect the pieces to make new weapons and armor that do nothing but make those same fights easier. What could be so appealing about such tedium?
The short answer is that the combat is fun. The long answer is... longer. Monster Hunter is set in a small village surrounded by a wilderness filled with giant, man-eating monsters. The survival of your village depends on YOU going out into the chaos and kicking its ass and bringing home whatever resources you can find. You are the archetypal hero in the world your animal brain still thinks it lives in; the world you unconsciously wish you live in. You will
start out small and be awed and humbled by giant dinosaurs and dragons, and then you will experience a satisfying sense of progression, power, and mastery as you overcome one seemingly insurmountable challenge after another. You will feel the pleasure that comes with developing a skill through practice as you become more and more adept at the always-fun action-packed combat. You will become a GOD; a whirlwind of terror sweeps over the land killing everything
that looks at you funny, and you will strike fear into Mother Nature herself. You will desire to broadcast your awesomeness to the world by equipping evermore outrageous weapons and armor, and along the way the game will addict you to item gathering by way of an intermittent reward schedule. You will lose yourself in this game and become someone... better.
g. What qualifies you to write a guide about Monster Hunter Tri Ultimate?
Not much. I’ve never written a guide before and the only Monster Hunter game I’ve ever played was Tri on the Nintendo Wii. That said, I thought Tri was a great game and I put about one thousand hours into it. I’m currently doing the same with Monster Hunter 3 Ultimate. Really, I’m only writing this guide because it seems to me to be dreadfully needed. Someone needs to give all of the new players some tips and suggestions for what items to bring along or how to deal with the bosses. Helping new players is how this game acquires fans
and fans in turn help the game series continue.
I’m creating this guide to stand in between a manual and the more expert knowledge that you can find easily on the world wide web. First things first, the game’s manual can be found by opening up your in-game menu and
looking into the section marked HUNTER’S NOTES. There you will find all of the information on controls, the Heads-Up Display (HUD), and the game sytems.
One of the bad habits this game has is mentioning important details like
‘where the darned menu is at’ only once in a flood of otherwise colorful but useless text, and then never mentioning it again. So I’ll say it again: this game has a manual that explains the controls and how to use your weapons! It’s amazing how many players never find this. But then again, much of this game is deliberately designed to be obtuse and frustrating as an extra layer of challenge. Remember when games were challenging and they just dropped you off in the middle of nowhere without a goal or a prayer? Well this game isn't that bad, but its definintely 'hardcore' in the sense that if you hope to progress you're going to have to dedicate yourself to learning about it.
The very basic sort of information that the manual provides won’t be in this guide. I will give you some tips on some of the game systems, though, like how to handle your item box, or tips on skills, or just how this game is usually played and how to prepare for quest (pro-tip: preparation is the key to success!). I don’t know... maybe I could go over decorations and charms...
but that might be too in-depth for a walkthrough. If you need to know anything more complex or specific than what is in this guide, check the MONSTER HUNTER WIKI, which is a great resource for veteran hunters, but again, not so friendly to newcomers.
This guide was made by writing down everything I know about Monster Hunter Tri Ultimate, which is a lot because I play it a lot and I’ve explained it to a couple of people before and try to help people from time to time with questions online and on the Miiverse. To remind myself of how the game progressed I made a new character and re-did the Lower-Rank Village quests to get a feel for how the game introduces things to the player. The walkthrough thus adheres to how the game actually goes, but it's taking me some time to play through all of
the content again.
h. I’m looking for a certain item. Where can I find it?
This guide will NOT, absolutely NOT tell you where to get certain items. That information would just be too much of a pain for me to list here, and lists
like that are certainly easy enough to find elsewhere.
If you need to know where to find items, or find out how to unlock particular weapons or armors, I recommend the Monster Hunter Wiki. Just search that phrase in a search engine. It’s very useful, but again, most of the information is only useful to those people who don’t give up at this game because it is too obtuse.
Oh, here's another useful little website if you want to find something:
https://www.360docs.net/doc/c24472515.html,/item/
That's what I'm using now. It's quick and simple and seems to work.
i. How do I read this guide?
If you’re looking for tips for a certain quest or a certain monster, check the table of contents to find what you’re looking for, and then get that bracketed number [xxx] and search for it [ctrl-f] to skip to that spot.
The walkthrough will cover all of the Moga Village quests. They are grouped by tier, and this guide covers the KEY QUESTS and then the URGENT QUEST before
covering whatever is leftover for that tier. The key quests and the urgent quests are the ones you have to do to proceed, but some of the other quests involve different and fun monster fights so you might as well check them out too.
For every quest I will tell give you some information that you could find yourself in the QUEST INFO, like the objective and where it will be (if there is an ‘N’ next to the location this means the quest takes place at NIGHT). I will also give you my appraisal of the difficulty of the quest (which is just my opinion) and a list of items you should bring with you. This list is not meant to be comprehensive. They are just suggestions. Obviously any quest can be made a little easier with bombs or traps if you feel like it.
If there is an important TERM or SYSTEM you need to know about that I'm just introducing I will probably CAPITALIZE it to draw it to your attention.
I will also try to direct you by telling you which AREAS on the MAP you need
to go to. If you need to learn where all of the areas are, make sure to pick
up a MAP from the BLUE BOX at the start of every quest. Funny story, though:
as a veteran of Tri I have long since fallen out of the habit of taking a map along or even displaying it on-screen, so my references to areas are based on memory and guesswork. If any of the areas I tell you to go to just aren't right, I apologize. They're probably mostly right sometimes though... maybe. ......................
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2. USEFUL NOTES [200]
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A lot of this information can be found in the in-game manual or will be explained during the tutorials of the single-player mode. Unfortunately, the
in-game text is small and fleeting and easily skipped. SO I've provided this information I thought was most useful for beginners right here. Take a look! ..............................
WEAPONS AND WEAPON TYPES [201] ..............................
This game features 12 weapon types. Each of these weapons takes some practice in order to be used efficiently. The weapons can also be upgraded through an expensive FORGING system. Give all of the weapon types a try and see which ones suit your play-style. But because the weapons need practice and are expensive to upgrade, it is best to pick a weapon type and stick with it for a while.
If you get a little ways into the game and have grown tired of your weapon type and you have a little money and parts to spare, feel encouraged to forge yourself a nice weapon of a new type.
Broadly, weapons are divided into BLADEMASTER weapons and BOWGUNNER weapons. The first type are those ones that you use by running right up to monsters to attack. They can be roughly divided up into blades (cuts) and blunts (impact). Swords are for cutting tails. Hammers attack the head for massive damage and inflict stun. Lances are more rounded and consistent.
The bows and guns, on the other hand, are ranged weapons, and they have their own system for making and using ammo. They have unique abilities and can do a range of different kinds of attack in a single battle. Personally I prefer the action and reaction of up-close combat and I find guns slow and boring and expensive.
Some weapons come with SHIELDS while others expect that you will EVADE any attacks that come your way. I recommend that true beginners get themselves a shielded weapon just to keep them alive until they know monsters' attack patterns well enough to dodge attacks.
If you need to know about a certain weapon and how it works, check the HUNTER MANUAL in your in-game pause menu!
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THE ITEM BOX [202]
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The ITEM BOX is your most important asset in this game. You can find two copies of it in PORT TANZIA, but in the single player mode the box is located in YOUR HOUSE. You will be returning to this box between every hunt to store items
you have gathered and to get items you will need. Let’s look at it in some detail.
The ITEM BOX is a chest, like a treasure chest. It is a bright blue color to distinguish it from the surroundings. It is longer than meter wide, half a
meter deep, maybe a meter tall. It has decorated edges. It has a curved lid.
It’s a very impressive box but it doesn’t look like the resolution was improved from the old version of the game. But seriously, press A and have a look at
some important BOX FUNCTIONS:
STORE ITEMS
You can store items from your blademaster’s or gunner’s POUCH. When you go out on quests you will acquire items to take back to your box for storage so that later you can forge with them or sell them or combine them or use them later. Your pouch can only carry 24 or 32 items so believe me when I say that this
extra storage is very handy.
REMOVE ITEMS
You can take items out of your BOX to have them with you during a hunt. You
will need some items on every hunt, some items on some hunts, and some other items are not necessary to take but are just nice to have. Be sure to
replenish your pouch before every quest.
COMBINE/MANAGE ITEMS
You have a number of options here. You can combine items in your item box. If
you select an item all those items it can combine with will be highlighted.
You can also press X to SORT the BOX. You should become accustomed to the order the game puts these items in so you can find stuff quickly. You also have the option of SELLING ITEMS, but I would advise against this at first. Items are more important than money, IMO. You need items for COMBINING, COMMODITY TRADES, and for FORGING new weapons and armor, so don’t sell items unless you are sure they cannot be used for any of the above. That said, if you have like, 20
pieces of a certain monster’s buttcheek that are worth 1000z each, and you
don’t want to make that particular kind of armor, then go ahead and sell them and pocket the 20,000z.
The item box is also where you MANAGE EQUIPMENT. You can EQUIP WEAPONS, ARMOR, and TALISMANS. You will want to match your weapons and armor to whatever you
are fighting. As for talismens/charms, I'll just briefly say that they can enhance your SKILLS and that this menu gives you an easy way to compare your charms. You can set DECORATIONS HERE (they are FORGED at the FORGE, though).
You can REORDER and SELL EQUIPMENT.
You can REGISTER EQUIPMENT SETS and EQUIP the sets you have already REGISTERED. This is a very handy feature later in the game when you have made a couple of different sets of armor and want to be able to switch between them quickly. Unfortunately when you name your set you are only given 6 character spaces to
do so. Really, six? Come on.
At the item box you can also VIEW your character up close using zoom and
rotate commands to make sure you are looking dope and fly before your hunt.
For a little while this will be unimportant to you because you will be more concerned about survival, but in a little while surviving will be second
nature to you (if it wasn't your first nature) and you will want to show off
how cool you are while doing it. Show off your flair and style! .....................
COMBINING ITEMS [203]
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Combining is a system that takes two items and turns them into one new, better item. You will be using this system to make yourself a whole bunch of necessary and/or handy items. As I previous explained, after selecting COMBINE ITEMS
(in your ITEM BOX) and selecting an item, all of the items it can combine with are highlighted for your convenience. If you’ve accomplished this combination
before the game will remind you of what the combination will result in. Your success rate can be improved by purchasing BOOKS OF COMBOS. There are some important combinations you’ll be doing quite frequently, such as:
Herb + blue mushroom = potion
Potion + honey = mega potion
sap plant + paintberry = paintball
Sap plant + stone or iron ore = bomb casing
Bomb casing + flashbug = flash bomb
Bomb casing + dung = dung bomb
Screamer + gunpowder = sonic bomb
fire herb + nitroshroom = gunpowder
sleep herb + parashroom = tranquilizer
Tranquilizer + bomb casing = tranq bomb
Trap tool + thunderbug = shock trap
Trap tool + net = pitfall trap
Spider web + ivy = net
Net + bone = bug net
Stone + bone = pickaxe
Cactus flower + bitterbug = herbal medicine
Honey + bitterbug = catalyst
Bitterbug + blue mushroom = antidote
And so on and so on. All of the above items can be (more or less) commonly obtained by foraging out in the various hunting grounds. All, that is, except
for the TRAP TOOLS, which must be bought. Some of these items can be bought, too, but why buy them when you can make them yourself and use the farm to produce infinite copies of the ingredients? Well, later in the game you will
not want to bother to go get resources for the farm and you will have lots of cash, so feel free to just buy some of this stuff. By the way, the item shop
in PORT TANZIA has better items if you want to check it out.
There are some other very important combinations that gunners use to make ammo, using husks and fish and other items to make their ammo. Being a gunner is an incredible drain on your item collection. Being a gunner is also about the
only reason for using the combine menu while you are out in the field as it is
a way of circumventing the ammo limits.
Why is combinging with the item box better than combining in the field?
Because of a little system known as RATE OF SUCCESS. Combining with the box gives you a better chance that the combination won't just FAIL and produce garbage (wasting your ingredients). Not that the chances of failure are very high anyways. When you get some money and some RARE COMMODITIES, you are
advised you pick up the five BOOKS OF COMBOS so that your item box combining rate of success gets maximized.
Anyways play around with combining items in your book and you will be able to open up some really neat items that are not strickly necessary to beat any quest but can be really helpful nonetheless. You can check your combo list to find
out things to try or things you already know. Oh, and if you hold down the A button while combining you will combine lots of items very quickly, which is useful if you are ever trying to make 50 mega pots or whatever. ...................
IN-GAME MENUS [204]
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Press SELECT on your gamepad, or START or SELECT on your 3DS, to open up the menu. When you are playing offline you’ll see two tabs, each containing about five menu options for you to choose from. Beginners should absolutely
familiarize themselves with the following things before they get very far into the game.
ITEM POUCH
You have a pouch for items. If you’ve ever played Role Playing Games you probably have a good idea of what to expect to carry around: healing potions, antidotes, item drops from your downed enemies, etc. You know the drill. You
can hold 24 items at a time. You have an item box in your house that can hold hundreds of items in storage, so you only have to carry with you what you
actually need for the mission you are on. Bowgunners have a fourth page in
their item pouch because they have to bring different types of ammo with them. Bowgunners’ and Blademasters’ item pouches are exclusive for some reason, so if you’re going to switch weapons you should first empty your item pouch.
COMBINE
You can combine items in your item pouch using this menu. This is the menu you use to combine items when out on a quest. Ordinarily, you will want to do your combining through the item box in your house, because that has a better
RATE OF SUCCESS. Failed combinations produce garbage, and I encourage you to
just throw your garbage on the ground and forget about it. Combining out in the field is mostly useful for gunners who need to make more ammo than they are permitted to carry, but everyone can use this to take along extra traps or potions for a very dangerous fight.
COMBO LIST
This is a list of things that can be combined. Personally, I never read it,
and I had a whole lot of fun randomly mixing items together just to see what would come out. I think this thing is a bit of a spoilsport.
HUNTER’S NOTES
THIS IS THE GAME’S MANUAL THAT TELLS YOU HOW TO PLAY. It contains the MONSTER LIST and HUNTER INFO. The monster list in this version of the game needs to be filled in by purchasing books from the item shop. It is not terribly important. The HUNTER INFO is actually this game’s MANUAL. All of the CONTROLS can be
found inside, as well as the different attacks each weapon has. This is a great resource for new hunters. Unfortunately, like most everything in this game, it
is mentioned once or twice in a great wave of text that you’ll probably ignore, and many novices never even find the game’s manual.
GESTURES
Open this screen and you’ll find a button to make your character dance or
lament or cheer. Kinda fun. Gesturing is a fun little thing to do when playing multiplayer and waiting for some tardy ally.
QUIT GAME
You can save and quit using this menu option.
STATUS
This is a quick way to see your current stats: your defence, attack, your resistance to various elements, your current funds and resource points, and perhaps most importantly, your food and armor skills. If you ever want a quick glimpse of these stats, this is where to look. You’ll have to frequently change your armor and weapons to match the element and strength of the monster you
want to hunt, so you’ll be checking this menu every so often.
On this screen you will also find that having a full set of matching armor provides you with a number of SKILLS. Skills are super important in this game. Check the second and third sub-screens to check out your SKILLS in
detail.
EQUIPMENT
This is a more in-depth look at your equipment... and it’s mainly used for finding out what sort of bullets your bowgun can shoot (if you’re using a bowgun) or what your horn can toot or finding out how many decoration slots
your armor has (this is a more advanced game system so if you really are a beginning you can probably just not bother with this).
GUILD CARD
This is a little summary of who you are and what you’ve done in Monster Hunter that you can send to other players. I believe that the 3DS versions sends this out using STREETPASS. You can CHECK, EDIT, SEND, and view a CARD LIST.
Make sure that you give yourself a dope title and that you buy all the monster books so people can see what you’ve hunted. Most importantly, head on over to the ARENA in PORT TANZIA to get some arena times on your card so you can join the LEADERBOARDS.
MOGA VILLAGE
This screen can tell you when your crops are ready down on the farm.
OPTIONS
Here we have various options you may be interested in tinkering with.
There are more menu screens that only come into play when you are online, so I won’t bother with them in this section. However, you should be made aware of some other options that pop up when you are out hunting:
QUEST INFO
When you are on a quest this menu will tell you everything you need to know about it. You can find out what the victory conditions are (Hunt, Capture, or delivering X number of items usually) and what the failure conditions are (3 deaths, the time limit). You can read some of this information ahead of time
at the QUEST BOARD to figure out if it is going to be day or night during the quest (which is important to know in the SANDY PLAINS at least).
PAUSE
If you’re playing single player, you have the option of PAUSING the game: stopping the quest timer and preventing you from being attacked.
RETURN TO VILLAGE
This option appears when you are out FREE HUNTING in MOGA WOODS. It allows you to return to MOGA VILLAGE without having to walk back to AREA 1. It’s very handy.
ABANDON QUEST
This option appears when you are on an official GUILD QUEST. You can give up; forfeiting the money you paid to accept the quest. You will be returned to MOGA VILLAGE as a failure. ................................
HOW TO PREPARE FOR A FIGHT [205] ................................
First things first, you want to know what you are going to fight before you are fighting it. Go to the quest counter or to the moga forecast and pick out your target. Read up on all of the quest info but DON'T select the quest yet.
Return to your house and equip appropriate armor and weapons. Usually this means you want an armor set with helpful skills that is also resistant to the element of your prey, and you want a weapon that does elemental damage that your prey is weak to (If you need to quickly check what a monster is weak to, run to the forge and look at the armor that monster makes and somewhere in those many pages of information will be that monster's elemental resistances). Open your item box and store all the items you have but won’t need and then take out all of the items you don't have but will need. There are some items you need for every quest and some that you need for certain quests and some
that are just helpful on certain quests. Make sure you have everything you NEED at least:
hot or cool drinks (for cold or hot areas, respectively)
traps and tranqs for cap quests (bring extras even)
paintballs and dungbombs (to keep you sane)
10 potions and/or mega potions at all times
whetstones for blademasters, ammo for gunners
meat (for high rank quests)
pickaxes and bug nets (for down-time item gathering)
At the beginning of LOW RANK QUESTS you will be provided with some helpful
items, but when you get to HIGH RANK these are no longer handed out, so you
will have to be even more prepared. Also in high rank you will have to keep dung bombs with you at all times to keep your from being devoured by THE DEVIL.
Hopefully the process of getting your items replenished between quests quickly becomes routine for you.
Once you are equipped run over to the RESTAURANT and eat something so that
your health and stamina bars will be expanded at the start of the quest. Get extra defense for tough monsters and extra attack for easier ones. Be on the lookout for applicable skills. Some foodskills lend themselves to particular quests but I’ll let you fiddle about with that system on your own.
Preparation is the key to victory so going about all of this runaround is
really half of the battle. If you know yourself and your enemy you can predict the outome of one hundred battles. The actual fighting is less critical (but more fun) than all this preparation. Show that monster that you came prepared. Then it will die and you can carve it up for parts, and take QUEST rewards and put them in your box, and then maybe someday you will have enough parts to make a new belt. Return to Moga Village, deposit the extra items you picked up during the quest, and repeat the cycle over again for the next quest. .................................
HOW TO FIGHT LARGE MONSTERS [206] .................................
The best way to deal with monsters is to be already familiar with how they move and attack. That may not be very helpful advice to the rookie player so here are some other things to be aware of.
Overpreparation is the key to success. If you don't know how to deal with a monster, come prepared for anything. Bring an excessive number of potions and mega potions. Bring a bunch of NULBERRIES in case it has an attack that debilitates you. Bring extra WELL-DONE STEAKS in case the fight drags on.
Bring traps and tranqs in case you need to turn around a losing battle or make a desperate capture attempt in the final minutes of a timed quest.
One technique for getting to know monsters is to fight them without fighting. Sounds zen, I know, but it can really help you get a feel for your opponent. Attack the monster once and then put your weapon away. Spend two minutes or so just dodging it attacks. After a little time spent in a closed arena with a rampaging tiger you should have a good idea of how it behaves, assuming you survive. You will start to notice openings in between its attacks. Keep a mental note of all those times in your head and put them to use later.
You will notice that monsters get commited to attacks and cannot break
out of them until they are completed. Usually this means they will not even
be able to change direction once they have started their attack. You can run around monsters during this time to position yourself to your advantage. When monsters have commited to an attack you have already dodged you also have
time to use healing items or sharpen your weapon if it is dull. If you ever take a lot of damage, put your weapon away and run a little bit until you see the monster leave you an opportunity to heal.
You should also familiarize yourself with the basics of EVADING and SHIELDING before you even think about attacking. What sort of options you have for moving or defending yourself depend on the weapon you brought and if you have it SHEATHED or not. With your weapon out, usually 'B' will give you a roll move to get out of the way of attacks, but sometimes it is just a sidestep (which can sometimes go through attacks unharmed). Your shield is on the 'R' button if you have one, and with it attacks can still damage your health but the brunt of the damage will go to your quickly-recovering stamina points. Your shield can get overwhelmed if it takes a lot of attacks in succession.
When you are running around with your weapon put away you should consider yourelf relatively invulnerable. This is because you have access to a DIVE move that replaces your roll whenever you are running away from a monster. During your dive you are completely immune to damage and you can use this to get through anything that would otherwise kill you. It can even prevent you from being STUNNED by flashes or immobilized by ROARS. The dive is great but
unfortunately your weapon needs to be put away for you to use it. Practice with it and learn to love it. Keep an eye on your stamina guage in battle
so you don't suddenly become able to roll or dive to shield or run away. Oh yeah, your dive doesn't work underwater.
When you attack monsters you want to do it and then quickly move out of the way of their next attack. Monsters in this game decide on an attack and then execute it, and then they have a brief window before they make their next move. Usually they have a little TELL or SIGN for what attack they are about to do. You want to anticipate the monster's moves and get out of the way but also position yourself so that you will be able to attack the monster when they are finishing their attack. See, after attacking, monsters usually spend a second or two recovering from the attack or reorienting themselves for their next move. This is your chance to land 3 hits or so and then get out of the way.
A little ways into the game you will get a companion character who is meant to approximate what it is like to play multiplayer mode. What this means is that whenever you have this AI sidekick the monsters will not just be attacking you, they will have to split their attention between you and your ally. This means between attacks they will have to turn in a different direction while you are free to run up behind them and land some hits. It's very convenient. Take advantage of this by putting the monster between you and Cha-Cha (or Kayamba). What you don't want to do is have both of you on one side of the monster so it can attack you both at once.
Monsters can be made vulnerable using items, too. It varies from monster to monster, but traps and flashbombs and sonic bombs can sometimes leave your
foe completely immobile and helpless. These items are not necessary in a fight but if you have the items and need to make things easier for yourself then bring them along.
There are other opportunities you should be aware of. Monsters in this game have a STAMINA SYSTEM and sometimes they will become visably TIRED. Usually this means that they just stand still for a couple of seconds and you should attack them. When you land a lot of attacks on a monster it can FLINCH or even FALL OVER. This is a great opportunity to expand on your combos, which otherwise should be kept short so the monster doesn't attack you while you're doing some complicated three-step attack.
On the flip side of the stamina system is something monsters have called RAGE MODE. When a monster goes into rage mode it will usually ROAR (this can freeze you in your tracks) and become more agressive and chain its attacks together instead of letting you attack it. Sometimes monsters have a puff of smoke in front of their faces to let you know they are mad. Rage mode can really make things more difficult for you and you may find yourself suddenly overwhelmed by a monster you were previously dominating. Don't worry about it, it happens, and if you suddenly on the receiving end of three big hits and stunned and
in bad shape or whatever, there is no shame in leaving the area you are in
if you need to take a bunch of potions and sharpen your sword and eat some meat and really just collect yourself. Maybe you can even go take a little nap or do some gathering if you feel that you'd be better off waiting for the monster to calm down abit.
You can be a little more proactive in your approach to rage mode, though.
If you save your traps and bombs for this point you can sometimes snap monsters right out of rage mode and demoralize them.
Monsters can leave the area they are in to get away from you, too. They can go find something to eat to regain stamina. Don't let them. They can go to
sleep if they are really injured. You want to use an item called a PAINTBALL to keep track of those monsters who move around a lot or who move in unpredictable ways. Some monsters have a clear path they take through certain areas and are easy enough to follow on their own. Some monsters can fly or
dig their way to far off-areas and make tracking them without paintballs hard or impossible.
Unless you are in some contrived condition you usually won't be fighting large monsters one-on-one. There will be all sorts of other things around to attack you. Small monsters can try to inflict status conditions like sleep or
paralysis on you while you aren't looking. You should seriously think about killing the more annoying ones before focusing on your real opponent. Sometimes other large monsters will show up in the same area. Large monsters can fight each other but mostly they will be double-teaming you. You can sometimes know this will happen ahead of time (through the quest info saying the area is
'dangerous' or 'unstable') so bring DUNG BOMBS to make one of the monsters leave the area. These don't always work and you can run out so be prepared to just leave the area and wait for those monsters to go their separate ways. Fighting two monsters at once is not a good idea at all.
Here's another good piece of advice that not enough hunters use: don't
fight monsters in corners or near walls or in other small, cramped areas.
You want room to run around so you don't get pinned against against a wall where monsters can chain attacks together on you.
Another thing you should know about large monsters is that they have different ELEMENTAL WEAKNESSES and different WEAK POINTS. When you need help with a certain monster you can search this guide (or just go to the monster hunter wiki) to find out what elemental weapons will deal the most damage and where. Usually it is something obvious like the head which is weakest spot, but do yourself a favor and look it up anyways, and bring a weapon that can exploit your target's weakness. The different monsters sometimes have even more
esoteric weaknesses to various items... like how gobul is weak to frogs. Get to know these sorts of things, too.
Besides exploiting weaknesses, you also want to be aware that certain parts of monsters can be BROKEN. Not only does this usually make them flinch, it also gives you more rewards when the battle is over. You will want to pursue
certain breakable points to get certain items for certain weapons and armors. Again, that kind of information can be searched for online but not in this guide.
When you kill a large monster while you are on a quest you will be given one minute to CARVE the monster for item drops. Use the remaining time to gather whatever items you can see in your immediate vicinity. Use this downtime as your primary item-gathering time so you don't have waste time doing it some other time. When your quest ends you will get even more items: send them to your item box forever. If you've been out hunting for like 30 or 50 minutes you may have to pee really bad but don't run off just yet because those quest rewards have a two minute timer for you to collect them before they are gone forever. And then take two seconds to save before you run off. ...................................
HOW TO CAPTURE LARGE MONSTERS [207] ...................................
Capturing monsters is a QUEST VICTORY CONDITION that comes up sometimes. Thankfully it doesn't come up very often. Oh sure, capturing is simple once
you get the hang of it, but newbies have the hardest time putting it together, and even with care trapping can be mucked up in all sorts of ways and cost you the quest and waste your time. Read this section if you don't want to be frustrated and disheartened by an errant cap quest.
Capturing is a straightforward business. You fight the monster like normal
until it is really beaten up and broken. When it goes to leave the area it will display a highly recognizable LIMP as a sign that it can be captured. A special armor skill called CAPTURE GURU will also inform you of this, if you really need help with it. Follow the monster to wherever it limps to and lay down
your trap. Lure the monster into the trap and then hit it with two tranqs. Preso! Captured. It seems so simple, but it can go so horribly screwy.
The key to success in this game is overpreparation and redundancy. When the game sends you out on a low-rank capture quest it will provide you with
an EZ trap and some tranq bombs/ammo. Don't let it make you complacent!
Before going on any cap quest, make sure you bring along your own traps and tranqs. Get them out of your item box, or else go to the item shop and buy some trap tools and tranquilizer and go out to moga woods to gather some
spider's webs and thunderbugs and ivy and parashrooms and sleep herbs. You need to be prepared in case your EZ trap fails or your tranqs miss.
How can traps fail? The EZest way for them to fail is for the monster to limp past them without stepping on them. These traps can't be picked up after they are put down and if the monster just gets up and leaves the area then your
trap is wasted and will most likely disappear before the monster comes back. Traps also only hold the monster for a short time so if something prevents you from tranqing the monster in time, or if the monster was never weak enough to be captured in the first place, then you've wasted that trap. Some monsters can just fly away without getting trapped, and rathalos especially seems to be too smart to fall into traps.
***Pro-tip: If you've run out of traps there is still a slim chance of getting some more. If you're on a map that happens to have some cats you can go and
kill them: they have a 3% chance of dropping EZ traps. It's better than nothing I guess***
Tranqs can fail you to. If you aim is false then you can throw them all away. Worse still some small or large monster can get between you and your quarry
and take the bullet for them, like that porpoise in that BATMAN MOVIE. You know the one.
There is yet another way to fail capture quests, and that is if your prey up and drops dead before you can capture it. The first two capture quests in the game are good examples of this. Arzuros and great jaggi are weak monsters and easily killed even with the worst weapons. You'll have to be really nice to them and give them lots of chances to tell you that they want to be captured. With all of that out of the way I have some more bad news: there are certain monster parts (needed for making sweet armor and weapons) that you can only
get by capturing monsters. And even then you don't always get them. That means you're going to have to do this unpleasant thing and not get carves from time to time. The good news is that when you are out on a regular old hunting quest or even freehunting, captures are totally allowable victory conditions so if you have the opportunity to do it with no hassle you can go ahead, and if it goes SNAFU it doesn't matter you can just kill the sucker. .............................
SKILLS - FOOD AND ARMOR [208] .............................
Skills are a game system of huge importance. Going into each battle you will have the option of having some unique abilities that can totally tilt the odds in your favor. You can get skills to make certain of your attacks more deadly, or certian monsters' attacks weaker. You can get skills to ignore roars or status conditions, or currents and winds. You can manipulate your health and stamina or sharpness systems. There are all sorts of little tweaks you can
do to your character if you have the will to do so, and these will be the difference between being a hunter subject the whims of fate and being a hunter who subjects the game to his will.
Skills come in two distinct forms: armor and food. Armor skills are harder to get and change because they are loosely tied to your armor and it can take a
lot of battles to get the items you need to make more armor or decorations or talismans. Food skills are much easier to get because you get them from the restaurant before each battle (assuming you eat before every quest, and you absolutely should) and they only last for one battle (or one life). I'll cover food skills first.
When you eat at the restaurant you order a dish by selecting two items from
six different types of food: meat, fish, grains, veggies, dairy, and drinks. Different combinations of these types of dishes give you different skills. Most importantly, eating lets you go into battle with expanded health bars
and stamina bars so that you don't have to bring along NUTRIENTS or MAX POTIONS to get your health bar expanded (you still have to bring meat because your stamina bar's length decreases over time). You can also get an attack up boost for monsters you want to kill quickly or a defence up boost for monsters you think might be able to kill you. Beyond that you will also get a FIXED SKILL (which is tied to the food types) and a DAILY SKILL (which changes). Switch between a preparation method by pressing LEFT and RIGHT and press UP and DOWN to get a look at the skills you'll get and then just pick whatever suits your fancy.
I know that sounds like a lot of information but really navigating the food menu is something you do super quickly just before each battle for a quick bonus. To make things easier for you I'll just tell you to get meat and grains for the attack boost, and fish and grains if you want the defence boost. Don't fret too much over getting the right skills they are sort of secondary when it comes to food.
One more thing you should know about the restaurant is that the food you get there can be upgraded by completing villager requests and by doing port quests that are marked as 'CANTEEN QUESTS'. Upgraded food is better.
Armor skills are where you want to get your most useful skills from, the skills that define what kind of hunter you are and give you your special edge in battle. Take a look through all of the armor the forge can make for you and
look through the various options to see the skills and what they do. Just pick
a set that would give you an advantage you like and then dedicate yourself to getting all of the peices of that set. Armor skills come in pieces with each piece of armor, so you'll typically have to collect the whole set of armor to activate the skill. Later in the game you'll be able to mix and match and use DECORATIONS to fill in some gaps to make truly unique armor, but for the
people this guide is intended for just knowing that you want a full set of some kind of armor is enough.
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HUNTING GROUNDS [209]
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If you want to hunt monsters you're going to have to go out into the wilderness (if you don't want to hunt monsters then you are playing the wrong game). This game provides you six main HUNTING GROUNDS that serve as the settings for your hunts. You get to these areas by accepting QUESTS and each quest sends you to a certain hunting ground (this guide lists them as LOCALES). The six locales are, in the order they are unlocked: the DESERTED ISLAND (also known as moga woods), the SANDY PLAINS, the FLOODED FOREST, the TUNDRA, the VOLCANO, and the MISTY PEAKS. Each locale has its own ecosystem and its own set of monsters big and small you will encounter there. The locales are more than static backdrops (at least, until you are super-powered); they are living worlds with unique
effects on how you will hunt and so it is important to know them as well as you know whatever your specific prey du jour is. After all, everything takes place within a CONTEXT and you would be smart to take that into consideration.
Like everything else in this game: the environment is subtlely or overtly waiting to kill you and make you quit in frustration if you act without thought. The environment is the natural home of the monsters and they will be able to move between AREAS to try and escape from you if you get too powerful. The environment may allow the monsters to go underwater for a fight where you are much less mobile than your fishy foes. The environment may just outright drain your health or stamina over time just because it is hostile and cruel. You will have to take all of these things into consideration before the quest starts and bring items with you to neutralize these ill effects, bringing order to the natural chaos and turning these hunting grounds into sterile areas for you to more easily (or with less difficulty) hunt monsters.
Here are some more practical differences between the hunting grounds. Different locations have different monsters, and this also includes SMALL MONSTERS better known as PESTS. These things will try to attack you while your attention is otherwise engaged fighting massive dragons. They vary from location to location and so where you are will be the difference between getting charged by a bullfango or being afflicted with some horrible status effect. The other noteworthy practical difference between locations is that they have different items for you to gather. If you need to get certain items you are going to have to go to those areas that have them. Because your access to areas is staggered with the unlocking of difficulty tiers, the game is able to give you access to new items as you progress and the newer items will be able to make slightly better weapons and armor.
Hunting grounds are divided up into discrete AREAS. You and monsters can move between these with a negliable amount of LOADING TIME. Monsters won't usually pursue you to different areas so you can excuse yourself for a moment to heal
yourself. In low-rank mode you will have easy access to a MAP of the area you are in and you have the option of having this map displayed on-screen at all times (I don't recommend this because it takes up a lot of screen space. And hey, this is why we have two screens now that we are in the future). I'll be referring the numbered areas on these maps from time to time. The other thing common to all hunting grounds is a rest area known as the CAMP where you will
be free from monsters and able to pick up items, drop off items you are charged with delivering, or heal yourself completely using the BED. Oh yeah, and all
of the locations have a secret area with good items that you can get to in
high-rank mode using the FELYNE EXPLORER skill.
Like I said before monsters move between areas. What I didn't say is that some of them move in such a way that you cannot easily watch where they go (either because they fly or dig or teleport or whatnot). You want to have an item called a PAINTBALL to track them. Besides that you will eventually accumulate a little bit of knowledge about where the different monsters hang-out in the different locations. Most of them stick to a certain sub-group of areas that are
relatively similar and suitable for fighting them in. For instance, the leviathans stay in or near water, and land monsters still on or near land. Well its more subtle than that but I think you get the idea.
Let's look over the hunting grounds one by one, shall we? The first loacation is the DESERTED ISLAND/MOGA WOODS and it is something completely unique. It is
a special case in that you have access to it in two completely identical instances. I'll cover the differences in the walkthrough later. Anyways, this location has 12 areas divided up between a land-locked LOWER CIRCUIT and some water areas to highlight the underwater combat which is unique to the third generation of Monster Hunter. Areas 2 and 3 are good places to gather honey and mushrooms and bugs. Area 3 gets narrow in the middle so have your fights at either end and not in the middle. There is a cave in area 4 that you'll rarely visit because no large monsters go in there. Area 5 is a large area where you can fight land and water monsters. Area 6 is the JAGGI'S DEN where gjaggi goes to sleep. Area 8 is at the top of a cliff and you can get knocked off or use it as a shortcut to areas 5 or 11. Area 11 is entirely underwater and so is part
of area 10. Area 12 is where the water monsters go to sleep. It is a small area so the fights there might be sudden death. As for small monsters, well the woods gets more and more of them as you advance. It has cats in some areas and some bnahabra and jaggi everywhere.
And next we have the SANDY PLAINS. This is one of the most deadly areas in that it has this TEMPERATURE SYSTEM so that during the day it is hot (and you'll need to bring cool drinks) and during the night it is cold (and you'll need hot drinks). This only applies to the outlying desert areas 8, 9, and 10. Area 8
is the most narrow of these and it is your usual location for fighting DIABLOS and it has a couple of places for him to get his horns stuck. Area 3 is the BARROTH'S WATERING HOLE and that's where you'll be fighting him. Area 5 is another jaggi's den and almost exclusive to him. Area 6 is another one of those caves that you can mine nice stuff in but you never fight large monsters in. The rhenopolos is a common pest in this locale. Did you know you can get stolen items back from cats in the cave? That's a real thing but it's not something
that comes up ever. The sandy plains give you access to ice crystals and carpenterbugs and nitroshrooms and fire herbs and cactus flowers and such.
And then there is the FLOODED FOREST. It's green and muddy. Areas 3,4,5,6, and 8 are underwater and a good source of pelagicite and bathycite ores. You can fish gobul out of area 4 using the frogs in area 2. Area 8 is where lagi and luddy go to sleep. The whole forest is full of bnahabra and aggressive altaroth and wroggi. You can also get killer beetles here. And hey, have you ever heard of this guy called the VEGGIE ELDER? He's not important, but areas 5 and 7 have a nice waterfall shortcut to area 6. I don't know, this area is not that special. Oh yeah and the base camp has a secret path out to area six. It's great for getting out in the water to fight lagi, but otherwise it just strands you far out in the deep muddy muck.
The TUNDRA is cold so you have to bring hot drinks. It has a large cave network through areas 4, 5, and 7. It is sometimes dark in there. Area 7 is where BAGGIS hang out and area 5 is where GIGGINOX breeds. Area 6 is where the BARIOTH'S PLATEAU is. The tundra is home to new ores called isisium and gracium (in high rank). And finally the tundra has two secret areas branching off of area 1 that get unlocked when JADE BARROTH or DEVILJHO get injured and try to hide there.
And then there is the VOLCANO which is hot in areas 5 thru 10. It also is a great spot to mine dragonite ore. Area 6 is where URAGAAN has his ramp. Area
10 is where AGNAKTOR sleeps and you can get powederstones for the powderstone quest. Oh yeah, bring cool drinks here.
And finally we have the MISTY PEAKS which I don't understand or know my way around because it is new from Monster Hunter Tri. Don't ever go there under
any circumstances.
Actually, those aren't all of the hunting grounds. There are a couple of special areas that only come up in certain special quests, like the GREAT DESERT where you fight JHEN MOHRAN or the SACRED GROUNDS where ALATREON lives or the UNDERWATER RUINS where CEADEUS lives. These things are not worth my time to cover, and neither are the land and sea arenas which are afterall just plain old places (with dragonators((?))).
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THE FORGE [210]
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It's important for you new players to know the ins and outs of the forge because that is where all of your weapons and armor will come from... and since this game doesn't include a typical rpg level-up stat system for your character, gear is EVERYTHING. The first thing you need to know about getting new gear is that THE FORGE is the only place to go. There is an armor and weapons shop but the stuff they sell there is ridiculously overpowered and aside from getting maybe your first armor upgrade or buying the bone version of your starter weapon, it has nothing worth getting.
So let's learn all about the forge. The forge can be found in the upper left corner of MOGA VILLAGE, and there is an identical forge in the MARINA of PORT TANZIA. When you talk to the WYVERN ARTISAN there you will be given three choices: WEAPONCRAFT, ARMORCRAFT, and DECORATIONS. I'll cover these three things in turn.
When you click on WEAPONCRAFT you go into a submenu with two other options: FORGE WEAPONS and UPGRADE WEAPONS. If you click on the former you will be given the option to create a weapon of whatever weapon type you desire. Weapons made at the forge require a sum of money (Zenny) and a few MATERIALS that are typically DROPPED by the large monsters you hunt. Weapons here are ranked by
a RARITY system and new potential weapons are added to this list as you kill new monsters. You can gets lots of info on weapons if you know how to read what is displayed here. You can see RAW ATTACK POWER, ELEMENTAL ATTACK POWER, and AFFINITY, which is another sort of power that might be linked to critical hits but who really knows. The colorful spectrum you see (assuming you are looking
at BLADEMASTER weapons) is the weapons SHARPNESS. Having large green, blue, white, and pink bars on this spectrum is good. If you are looking at BOWS then instead of this you will have to shift through some screens to see what ammo your weapon uses, and you will be given lots of gun specific stats like RELOAD, RECOIL, DEVIATION... all that bowgun gobbledygook. If your weapon has SLOTS for DECORATIONS (see below) then it will say so. You can compare the stats of all available weapons to the weapon you currently have equipped. Fiddling around with buttons will also allow you to find some FLAVOR TEXT about the weapon, check out the materials needs to forge it, and view the weapon to see if it looks cool or not. Anyways, check back here when you kill a new large monster to see if you can make a new weapon. Try and make a weapon of every element early on and then move on to UPGRADING them after that.
UPGRADING WEAPONS is where you want to focus your attention after you've made starter weapons. You will be taken to your EQUIPMENT BOX to look and see if anything you own can be upgraded. Weapons and materials will be greyed out if they aren't available, but anything that can be upgraded right now will be
bright and colorful. You can take the weapons you have now and make them more powerful if you bring the required materials and money. You should do an
internet search for WEAPON TREES to see what weapons can be upgraded to what
and what materials you will need. You will be moving your weapons up the RARITY SCALE in sync with your progression through the game.
ARMORCRAFT also allows you to forge or upgrade, but these both work in different
ways than they did with weapons. For starters, you should know that you have FIVE pieces of armor you can wear at all times: head, arm, chest, waist, and legs. You will be forging and upgrading each of these seperately. When you see the large list of armors you can forge, you will notice that there are certain redundancies in the list that may confuse you at first. You will notice that every piece of armor comes in two flavors: one with higher defence and one with higher elemental resistances. The higher defence is meant for BLADEMASTERS and the weaker armor is for GUNNERS. So from now on you can just ignore every other piece of armor depending on your weapon type. You can see the materials and money needed to make armor, but more importantly with a press of a button you can see how that armor will look on you. If you are the kind of person who cares about SKILLS over looks, well there are a couple of submenues here that will
let you check on the skills you will get from these armor pieces. Finally, when you get to HIGH RANK and G RANK armors you will notice that there are new verions of all of the armors with slightly different skills, and also that there are S/U and Z/X versions of armors which are just armor pieces for different SUBSPECIES of the same monsters. I hope some of that makes sense.
UPGRADING ARMOR is much more straightforward than upgrading weapons was. Armor upgrades just involve adding small amounts of defence but otherwise keeping armor exactly the same. Armor upgrades cost money and ARMOR SPHERES, which are items you have to mine out in the fields. The successive layers of armor spheres are made available as you unlock higher level instances of the various HUNTING GROUNDS, so you will only be able to upgrade your armor a couple of times before the next upgrade requires an armor sphere you can't get to yet, and then you'll be better off forging a new set of armor. But later on you can go back and upgrade old armors with armor spheres from much later in the game, and you will be able to OVERFORGE armor, which makes low rank armor into high rank, or high into G, and lets you keep the skills the armor had before. When you get into
the endgame and you are doing SKILL TWEEKS that require specific armor skills and whatnot, this may be important to you. If you're not bothering with this stuff then don't worry about overforging at all.
DECORATIONS can be FORGED and SET here. Decorations are items that are set into armor SLOTS to increase your skill points to try and get you over the thresholds to activate skills. You can make decorations using JEWELS and materials. There
is a nice button you can press to hide the decoration names and just tell you the skills the influence... very helpful when you are looking through 27 pages of skill names trying to find a certain one. You don't have to worry about decorations at the beginning of the game. Just get yourself a matching set of armor and use the skills it makes available to you, and if you feel you understand the skill system enough to tweek these stats, then dive in here and do it.
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3. SHAKALAKA COMPANIONS [300] .............................
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This section was contributed by Mr. I Noble, aka heavyacademic.
Questions or comments for him can be sent to inobleuk@https://www.360docs.net/doc/c24472515.html, ............
INTRODUCTION
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Although the 3DS version of MH3U has limited multiplayer options, you
will spend most of your time questing alone. So it is nice to know that
the game provides you with 2 companions in the form of "Shakalakas."
As well as keeping you company and making amusing comments, they can
carve monsters, gather materials, attack monsters and help out in many
other ways.
You meet Cha-Cha during one of the 3* Village Quests in the Moga Woods.
You meet Kayamba in one of the 5* Village Quests.
Cha-Cha leaves after the Fell the Lagiacrus! quest but he does return later
in the game. Getting his Ancient Mask is the key to progressing beyond the
5* Village Quests and accessing the Urgent Quest to fight the Ceadeus.
To unlock the remaining 5* quests, the delivery quest, Ancient Mask will need to be completed, by delivering the following items:
x2 Lagiacrus Scale - Hunt Lagiacrus
x1 Sharqskin - Weaken and harpoon Sharqs in area 11 of the Deserted Island
x4 Pelagicite Ore - Mine in areas 3, 5 & 6 of the Flooded Forest
After delivering the required items above, head to Moga Farm with Cha-Cha. Examine the statue behind the waterfall to obtain Cha-Cha's Ancient Mask.
You retrieve an "Unfortunate" Mask for Kayamba but by completing further quests you can transform it into the "Ultimate" Mask.
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FONDNESS LEVEL [301]
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Cha-Cha and Kayamba have a fondness counter called 'Chum-Chum' which represents the friendliness between them. This affects their likelihood
of dancing at the same time during quests. There are 5 ranks, and at max rank they are more likely than not to dance with each other, exceptions
being if one is gathering or fighting.
Chum Chum tickets are given out by the Savvy Tabby in the marina area of Tanzia port. He will give you one after Cha-Chas and Kayambas chum chum
stat increases level.
The tickets are needed for the Shaka Scarecrows Dual Sword branch of the weapon tree
https://www.360docs.net/doc/c24472515.html,/3ds/642342-monster-hunter-3-ultimate/faqs/66688
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SHAKALAKA MENU OPTIONS [302] ............................
To interact with one of your Shakalaka pals, press A when near them. You
are then presented a screen with the following options:
Invite on Quest/Leave Behind - Selecting this option determines whether or not you bring Cha- Cha or Kayamba on a Quest. By default, they're set to
not join you. Be sure to select this option to ensure they are there when
you go on a Quest!
Change Mask - This allows you to change Cha-Cha's or Kayamba's Mask.
Different Masks give the Shakalakas brand new abilities, like lighting up
an area or even breathing fire!
Select Dances - Change the Shakalaka's Dances and special songs they can play to perform actions, such as taunting monsters, increasing your attack, or even restoring your Health!
Select Abilities - This option allows you to set a Shakalaka ability onto a Mask. Use skills to add an Elemental attribute to their attack or give
them the ability to focus only on gathering.
View Stats - This option takes you to a screen that displays information about Cha-Cha's or Kayamba's level, their attack power, and how much
Stamina they have.
Multi: Take Along/Leave Behind - This option selects whether or not you
take one of the Shakalakas with you in multiplayer. You can only bring
one of them at a time. Try to pick the Shakalaka with the lowest level so
you can make them both stronger!
When you select View Stats, you're taken to a screen that shows all of
Cha-Cha's or Kayamba's information at a glance. The following explains
the features found on this screen:
Lv - This displays the Shakalaka's experience level. Shakalakas gain
levels when you defeat monsters; stronger monsters in difficult Quests
are worth more than weaker monsters in easier Quests. Leveling up a Shakalaka gives them access to new abilities and also increases their
other stats.
Valor - This stat determines how likely the Shakalaka is to fight large monsters or stay in battle. Valor increases as the Shakalaka gains levels and Chum-Chum levels.
Health - This display the Shakalaka's Health. The more Health they have, the longer they can fight!
Attack - This displays the Shakalaka's attack power.
Elem - This displays the Shakalaka's Elemental or Abnormal attack power. The only way they can get special attack values is by equipping an
ability that grants them.
Defense - This displays the Shakalaka's Defense.
Masks - This shows the Shakalaka's currently equipped Mask.
Mastery - This value increases as the Shakalaka completes Quests while wearing a Mask. Mastery determines what bonuses are given by a Mask, as well as how well they can use its abilities.
Abilities - This displays what abilities the Shakalaka has equipped.
Stamina - This is the maximum Stamina the Shakalaka has at the beginning of a mission. Stamina is consumed whenever the Shakalaka Dances and is restored over time. Different Dances consume different amounts of Stamina.
Recovery - Recovery is how quickly the Shakalaka's Stamina regenerates
after a Dance is performed. Recovery changes depending on which Mask the Shakalaka has equipped.
Dance Effects - This is a list of the possible Dance Effects the Shakalaka can perform with their equipped Dances.
Chum-Chum Level - A visual representation of how close the two Shakalakas are as friends. Their Chum-Chum level increases as they go on Quests together and as you fight stronger monsters.
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DANCES [303]
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At all times, Cha-Cha and Kayamba are equipped with two separate Dances. When combined, these Dances allow the two Shakalaka to Dance and bestow special effects onto you, usually in the form of Health recovery!
To change a Shakalaka's Dance, talk to them and choose the Select Dances menu. Pick two of the available Dances to create a table of possible effects. Each dance has a note attached to it, and each combination of notes creates a different table of effects.
Each Dance has a Stamina cost attached to it, displayed in terms of High, Medium, and Low. The higher the Stamina cost, the less often they can Dance. Keep this in mind when selecting Dances.
There are five Dances in total. Cha-Cha knows two and learns an
additional Dance after Kayamba becomes your ally. The other two Dances
can be traded for from the Argosy Captain after specific Quests have been completed.
UNLOCKABLE DANCES DANCE UNLOCK CONDITIONS