海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynam(13)
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《海岸动力学》课件
实验结果与分析
01 02 03
结果分析
分析潮汐和波浪对海岸的影响机制 。
研究海岸物质的迁移模式与潮汐、 波浪的相互关系。
06
海岸动力学的未来发展
海岸动力学的前沿问题
极端气候和海平面上升的影响
研究极端气候事件对海岸带的影响，以及海平面上升对海岸动力过程、海滩演变和沿海工 程设施的影响。
海洋酸化的影响
实验方法与步骤
• 重复进行多次实验，以获得可靠的实验结果。
实验方法与步骤
使用专业软件进行数据处 理和分析。
对采集的数据进行整理和 筛选。
数据分析
01
03 02
实验结果与分析
潮汐对海岸的影响
潮汐周期与海岸物质的迁移模式之间的关系。
波浪能量耗散
波浪在传递过程中能量损失的规律。
实验结果与分析
• 近岸流速分布：潮汐和波浪共同作用下近岸流速的分布情 况。
数值求解方法
数值求解是解决偏微分方程的重要手段，通过数值方法可以将偏微分方程 转化为离散点上的数值计算。
常见的数值求解方法包括有限差分法、有限元法、谱方法等，每种方法都 有其适用范围和优缺点。
选择合适的数值求解方法需要考虑模型的复杂性和计算精度要求，以及计 算资源的限制。
模型验证与比较
01
模型验证是确保模型准确性的重要步骤，通过与实际观测数据 进行比较，可以评估模型的可靠性和精度。
研究海洋酸化对海岸带生态系统、沉积物化学和矿物学的影响，以及这些变化如何影响海 岸动力过程。
海洋垃圾和塑料污染
关注海洋垃圾和塑料污染对海岸带生态系统和环境的影响，以及如何通过减少垃圾排放和 加强废弃物管理来减轻这些影响。
海岸动力学的研究趋势
海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_5.1.
2/39
Chapter 5
1. Physical properties
Beach materials mainly consist of the sand and gravel transported by rivers, the sand composing dunes located in the
1/39
§5.1 Characteristics of Coastal Sediment 1. Physical properties of coastal sediment 2. Modes of coastal sediment movement 3. Threshold of coastal sediment motion
influence of waves and nearshore currents in the
onshore or offshore directions, or parallel to the
shoreline. There are two modes of sediment
movement: suspended sediment movement and
and littoral drift, are distribution of grain size,
shape, roundness, mineral composition,
porosity, permeability, etc. Among them, grain
size distribution and mineral composition are
bed load movement.
8/39
Chapter 5
Incoming waves reach a certain water depth (offshore region), then bed material sand particles there begin oscillatory motion due to wave action. In a slightly more shallow area, waves produce a net motion of sand particles in the onshore or offshore direction. The interesting feature in this region is the generation of sand ripples, which seem to have a strong influence on sediment movement.
海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_复习
a c gc oko h s k s h z h h sikn x (t)
While the elevation of the water surface is
acoks x(t)
Substituting the velocity potential and the surface elevation into the K.F.S.B.C yields the dispersion relationship.
3/130
§2.1 Description of Wave Motion 1. Classification of waves 2. Methods of describing fluid motion 3. Theories commonly used to describe
wave motion 4. Basic parameters of regular waves
H H0
1 c0 2n c
ks
3. Wave refraction
For straight coasts with parallel contours,
si n1si n2constsain n0 t
c1
c2
c0
HH0
1c0 2nc
b0 b
H0kskr
1
1
1
kr b b02cco o 0ss21 1 ssii2n 2n 04
2 gktankhh
gT2 2
L tanh h
2 L
c2gTtanh2Lh
A deep water wave is a wave whose wavelength is very small compared with the water depth.
While the elevation of the water surface is
acoks x(t)
Substituting the velocity potential and the surface elevation into the K.F.S.B.C yields the dispersion relationship.
3/130
§2.1 Description of Wave Motion 1. Classification of waves 2. Methods of describing fluid motion 3. Theories commonly used to describe
wave motion 4. Basic parameters of regular waves
H H0
1 c0 2n c
ks
3. Wave refraction
For straight coasts with parallel contours,
si n1si n2constsain n0 t
c1
c2
c0
HH0
1c0 2nc
b0 b
H0kskr
1
1
1
kr b b02cco o 0ss21 1 ssii2n 2n 04
2 gktankhh
gT2 2
L tanh h
2 L
c2gTtanh2Lh
A deep water wave is a wave whose wavelength is very small compared with the water depth.
海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_2.2
on z=η
x ,z ,t x c,zt
3/21
Chapter 2
§2.3 Small Amplitude Wave Theory
1. Linearization of basic equations 2. Solution of the linearized equations 3. Dynamic & kinetic characteristics
Coastal Hydrodynamics 海岸动力学
Chapter 2 WAVE THEORY
Stating description of wave motion Stating basic equations of wave motion Stating the small amplitude wave theory Stating the finite amplitude wave theory Stating wave theory limits of applicability
G.D.E. B.B.C. D.F.S.B.C. K.F.S.B.C. L.B.C.
2 0
hz, x
0
z
on z= -h
on t1 2[ x2 z2]p 0g z0 z=η
0
t xx z
1/21
Assumptions Water is treated as a uniform and incompressible fluid.
The fluid viscosity is normally ignored.
The surface tension and Coriolis force are ignored.
2019年-海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_2.2-PPT文档资料-PPT精选文档
the velocity potential be changed?
Chapter 2
Homework
A wave with the period of 5s travels in water of 5m, what is its celerity and what is its length?
2 gktankhh
LgT2 tanh2h 2 L
cgTtanh2h 2 L
17/21
Chapter 2
Dispersion relationship
This relationship shows that the wave length continually decreases with decreasing depth for a constant wave period. That is to say, waves of constant period slow down as they enter shallow water.
The bottom is impermeable. Waves travel in the x-z plane.
2/21
continuity equation
velocity potential
gravity only
zero velocity
Chapter 2
Boundary Value Problem of Wave Motion
13/21
Chapter 2
2. Solution
Coordinates System
14/21
Chapter 2
How to obtain the solution ? L.B.C G.D.E B.B.C
Chapter 2
Homework
A wave with the period of 5s travels in water of 5m, what is its celerity and what is its length?
2 gktankhh
LgT2 tanh2h 2 L
cgTtanh2h 2 L
17/21
Chapter 2
Dispersion relationship
This relationship shows that the wave length continually decreases with decreasing depth for a constant wave period. That is to say, waves of constant period slow down as they enter shallow water.
The bottom is impermeable. Waves travel in the x-z plane.
2/21
continuity equation
velocity potential
gravity only
zero velocity
Chapter 2
Boundary Value Problem of Wave Motion
13/21
Chapter 2
2. Solution
Coordinates System
14/21
Chapter 2
How to obtain the solution ? L.B.C G.D.E B.B.C
海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3
3. Wave refraction 4. Wave reflection
5. Wave diffraction 6. Wave breaking
3/34
Chapter 3
1. Conervation of wave equation can be
high steepness values. In spilling breakers the
wave gradually peaks until the crest becomes
unstable and cascades down as “white water”
(bubbles and foam).
12/34
Chapter 3
Limiting wave steepness
For any given water depth and wave period, there is an upper limit to the wave height at which the wave becomes unstable and breaks. The limiting steepness （极限波陡） is
21/34
Chapter 3
Numerical Modeling of Surging Breaker
22/34
Chapter 3
7. Case studies
Damage of Langtongmen Breakwater Caused by No.9119 Typhoon
Three-dimensional Experimental Study on Wave Characteristics in Front of Concave Breakwater
5. Wave diffraction 6. Wave breaking
3/34
Chapter 3
1. Conervation of wave equation can be
high steepness values. In spilling breakers the
wave gradually peaks until the crest becomes
unstable and cascades down as “white water”
(bubbles and foam).
12/34
Chapter 3
Limiting wave steepness
For any given water depth and wave period, there is an upper limit to the wave height at which the wave becomes unstable and breaks. The limiting steepness （极限波陡） is
21/34
Chapter 3
Numerical Modeling of Surging Breaker
22/34
Chapter 3
7. Case studies
Damage of Langtongmen Breakwater Caused by No.9119 Typhoon
Three-dimensional Experimental Study on Wave Characteristics in Front of Concave Breakwater
海岸动力学英文课件CoastalHydrodynam
Nearshore circulation
The horizontal movement of water caused by tides, which can be either towards or away from the shore
Tidal streams
A narrow channel where strong Tidal currents meet, often resulting in turbulence and mixing
The study of coastal dynamics covers a wide range of topics, including wave dynamics, sedimentation transport, coastal erosion and retention, delta formation and evolution, island evolution, and the impact of human activities on coastal environments
The Physical Foundations of Coastal Dynamics
The vertical range of water level changes caused by the gravitational attraction of the moon and sun on the Earth's oceans
Description
01
A simplified model that considers only one spatial dimension, commonly representing the shoreline as a single point
The horizontal movement of water caused by tides, which can be either towards or away from the shore
Tidal streams
A narrow channel where strong Tidal currents meet, often resulting in turbulence and mixing
The study of coastal dynamics covers a wide range of topics, including wave dynamics, sedimentation transport, coastal erosion and retention, delta formation and evolution, island evolution, and the impact of human activities on coastal environments
The Physical Foundations of Coastal Dynamics
The vertical range of water level changes caused by the gravitational attraction of the moon and sun on the Earth's oceans
Description
01
A simplified model that considers only one spatial dimension, commonly representing the shoreline as a single point
海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_2.2
on z=η
x ,z ,t x c,zt
3/21
Chapter 2
§2.3 Small Amplitude Wave Theory
1. Linearization of basic equations 2. Solution of the linearized equations 3. Dynamic & kinetic characteristics
the velocity potential be changed?
Chapter 2
Homework
A wave with the period of 5s travels in water of 5m, what is its celerity and what is its length?
A field of propagating waves consisting of many frequencies would separate due to the different celerities of the various frequency components.
18/21
Chapter 2
G.D.E. B.B.C. D.F.S.B.C. K.F.S.B.C. L.B.C.
2 0
hz, x
0
z
on z= -h
on t1 2[ x2 z2]p 0g z0 z=η
0
t xx z
Coastal Hydrodynamics 海岸动力学
Chapter 2 WAVE THEORY
Stating description of wave motion Stating basic equations of wave motion Stating the small amplitude wave theory Stating the finite amplitude wave theory Stating wave theory limits of applicability
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Research interest (b):
Experimental study on interactions of waves and structures
Floating Mat Breakwater in Daishan Central Fishery Harbor
Research interest (c):
homework, 20%
final examination, 60%
Final Score
3. ABOUT THE TEXTBOOK
Wu Songren (2001). “Coastal Dynamics”. Press of People’s Communication.
2 periods for introduction 10 periods for wave theory 6 periods for wave transformations 4 periods for nearshore circulations 6 periods sediment movements 4 periods for coastal processes
Email: jhzheng@
Phone:UMPTIONS
What is it ? Why is it important ? How to learn it ?
What ? a two-credit bilingual course
“Bilingual Course”
海岸动力学 Coastal Hydrodynamics
CONTENTS
Chapter1 Introduction Chapter2 Wave Theory Chapter3 Wave Transformation Chapter4 Nearshore Circulations Chapter5 Sediment Movements Chapter6 Coastal Changes
Environmental impact assessment of coastal engineering
Large-scale Reclamation Project in Sanduao Bay
Contact us:
Dr. Jin-Hai Zheng & Jia-Ling Hao, Room 610, Building Yen Kai 2:00 to 5:00 p.m., Every Tuesday.
technical abilities language cultural awareness innovative
Master the results of derivations
How ? & their physical meanings.
Regularly, Carefully, Actively, Diligently term-time performance, 20%
Employment: Professor,
College of Traffic, College of Ocean, Hohai University
Research interest (a):
Numerical modeling of coastal and estuarine hydrodynamics
PROLOGUE
1 Self-introduction 2 Teaching assumptions 3 About the textbook
1. SELF-INTRODUCTION
Name: ZHENG Jinhai
Education: Ph.D. 1998, Coastal
Engineering, Hohai University
2 months: from March 2 to April 26
bilingual: 2 languages — Chinese & English
bilingual teaching: 3 types — immersion program maintenance program transitional program
What ? a two-credit bilingual course
main topics: wave theory wave transformations nearshore circulations sediment movements coastal processes
What ? a state-prize awarded course
/jpkc2007 /jpkc2007/ haiandonglixue/Course/Index.htm
http://202.119.112.82/scr2006
Why ?
Students who are going to become engineers and scientists in the field of harbor, waterway and coastal engineering should master the basic knowledge of coastal hydrodynamics, which will help you to avoid undesirable effect in the plan and design of coastal engineering.
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A phase averaging prediction model for multi-directional random waves considering ambient currents