《针织学Knitting》课件
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Double jersey machines have 2 set of needles and knit double jersey fabrics
Weft Knitting – Dial and cylinder knitting
Weft Knitting – Dial and cylinder
1x1 Rib, loop length 0.5 cm, course/cm = 11 wales/cm = 8 Interlock, loop length 0.3 cm, course/cm = 15 wales/cm =12
Production calculations for
circular weft knitting machines
Fabric width (cm) = Machine gauge x machine diameter x π Wales/cm
Fabric weight per m² (Fabric Area Density) = Courses/cm x Wales/cm x loop length (cm) x Yarn Tex x C
Weight/running metre (g) = 14 x 20 x π x 11 x 50 x 0.5 x 2 = 484 g 10³
Production calculations for
circular weft knitting machines
Solution
Interlock (F=0.5, C=2)
It is knitted over 2 feeders. At the first feeder only the long needles knit and at the 2nd feeder only the short needles knit
It has an identical appearance on both sides. It is extensible but not very elastic and usually knitted from relatively fine cotton, cotton polyester yarns for T-shirts, underwear, sports and leisure wear
10³
Production calculations for
circular weft knitting machines
Example
Given a 14 gauge, 20 inch diameter, 40 feeder circular weft knitting machine, operating at 25 rpm and 90 % efficiency . Calculate the length, width, weight/m²and weight per running metre that would be produced per hour using a two fold resultant 50 Tex polyester yarn knitted to the following structures and specifications:
Double ended latch needle
Bottom slider
Weft Knitting – 1x1 Purl
Notation
V Bed Weft Knitting
Loop Transfer
Production calculations for circular weft knitting machines
Weight/running metre (g) = 14 x 20 x π x 15 x 50 x 0.3 x 2 = 396 g 10³
Weft Knitting - Plating
Weft Knitting - Plating
Fabric manufacturers must be able to calculate the productivity of a weft knitting machine in order to be able to schedule production and specify delivery dates to a customer.
Machine
Fabric
Number of feeders
Fabric structure
Machine speed Courses/cm
Machine diameter Wales/cm
Production calculations for circular weft knitting machines
Length (m) = 40 x 25 x 0.9 x 60 x 0.5 = 18.0 metres/hour 15
Width (cm) = 14 x 20 x π = 73.3 cm (open width) 12
Weight/m²(g/m²) = 15 x 12 x 50 x 0.3 x 2 = 540 g/m² 10
Weft Knitting - Double jersey
fabrics
1 x 1 Rib Rib fabrics are produced on weft knitting machines that have 2 sets of needles
Weft Knitting - Double jersey fabrics
Productivity in weft knitting terms refers to the length, width and weight of fabric produced over a particular time period. In circular weft knitting the productivity is a function of the following variables:
Notation 1 x 1 Rib
Weft Knitting - Gating
Rib or Alternaຫໍສະໝຸດ Baidue Gating
Interlock Gating
Weft Knitting - Double jersey
fabrics
Interlock Interlock is a double jersey fabric produced using two sets of needle set out 1 long 1 short in the cylinder and 1 short 1 long in the dial
knitting
There are no sinkers on dial and cylinder machines
Weft Knitting - Double jersey
fabrics
1 x 1 Rib 1 x 1 rib fabric is produced with the loops knitted alternatively to the face and back of the fabric on successive wales.
10 where C is a constant according to the fabric structure.
Fabric weight per running metre = Courses/cm x100 x Number of wales x loop length (cm) x Yarn Tex x C
Double Jersey Rib Derivative Structures
Weft Knitting – Purl or LinksLinks Knitting
Plain Knit
1x1 Purl
Weft Knitting – Purl or LinksLinks Knitting
Top slider
Classification of double jersey weft knitting machines
Double jersey weft knitting machines
双面针织机分类
Weft knitting machines can have two sets of needles. These are called double jersey machines Weft knitted fabrics produced on machines with two sets of needles are called double jersey fabrics
Fabric length / 8 shift (cm) = Number of feeders x rpm x 8 x 60 x E% x F Courses/cm
The Factor F is included to take into account the fact that a full course of loops is not always knitted at a feeder. E % is the efficiency of the machine.
Solution
1x1 Rib ( F=1, C=2)
Length (m) = 40 x 25 x 0.9 x 60 x 1 = 49.1 metres/hour 11
Width (cm) = 14 x 20 x π = 110 cm (open width) 8
Weight/m²(g/m²) = 11 x 8 x 50 x 0.5 x 2 = 440 g/m² 10
Weft Knitting - Double jersey
fabrics
Notation
Interlock
Weft Knitting - Double jersey fabrics Interlock
Double Jersey Derivative Structures
Double Jersey Derivative Structures
Weft Knitting – Dial and cylinder knitting
Weft Knitting – Dial and cylinder
1x1 Rib, loop length 0.5 cm, course/cm = 11 wales/cm = 8 Interlock, loop length 0.3 cm, course/cm = 15 wales/cm =12
Production calculations for
circular weft knitting machines
Fabric width (cm) = Machine gauge x machine diameter x π Wales/cm
Fabric weight per m² (Fabric Area Density) = Courses/cm x Wales/cm x loop length (cm) x Yarn Tex x C
Weight/running metre (g) = 14 x 20 x π x 11 x 50 x 0.5 x 2 = 484 g 10³
Production calculations for
circular weft knitting machines
Solution
Interlock (F=0.5, C=2)
It is knitted over 2 feeders. At the first feeder only the long needles knit and at the 2nd feeder only the short needles knit
It has an identical appearance on both sides. It is extensible but not very elastic and usually knitted from relatively fine cotton, cotton polyester yarns for T-shirts, underwear, sports and leisure wear
10³
Production calculations for
circular weft knitting machines
Example
Given a 14 gauge, 20 inch diameter, 40 feeder circular weft knitting machine, operating at 25 rpm and 90 % efficiency . Calculate the length, width, weight/m²and weight per running metre that would be produced per hour using a two fold resultant 50 Tex polyester yarn knitted to the following structures and specifications:
Double ended latch needle
Bottom slider
Weft Knitting – 1x1 Purl
Notation
V Bed Weft Knitting
Loop Transfer
Production calculations for circular weft knitting machines
Weight/running metre (g) = 14 x 20 x π x 15 x 50 x 0.3 x 2 = 396 g 10³
Weft Knitting - Plating
Weft Knitting - Plating
Fabric manufacturers must be able to calculate the productivity of a weft knitting machine in order to be able to schedule production and specify delivery dates to a customer.
Machine
Fabric
Number of feeders
Fabric structure
Machine speed Courses/cm
Machine diameter Wales/cm
Production calculations for circular weft knitting machines
Length (m) = 40 x 25 x 0.9 x 60 x 0.5 = 18.0 metres/hour 15
Width (cm) = 14 x 20 x π = 73.3 cm (open width) 12
Weight/m²(g/m²) = 15 x 12 x 50 x 0.3 x 2 = 540 g/m² 10
Weft Knitting - Double jersey
fabrics
1 x 1 Rib Rib fabrics are produced on weft knitting machines that have 2 sets of needles
Weft Knitting - Double jersey fabrics
Productivity in weft knitting terms refers to the length, width and weight of fabric produced over a particular time period. In circular weft knitting the productivity is a function of the following variables:
Notation 1 x 1 Rib
Weft Knitting - Gating
Rib or Alternaຫໍສະໝຸດ Baidue Gating
Interlock Gating
Weft Knitting - Double jersey
fabrics
Interlock Interlock is a double jersey fabric produced using two sets of needle set out 1 long 1 short in the cylinder and 1 short 1 long in the dial
knitting
There are no sinkers on dial and cylinder machines
Weft Knitting - Double jersey
fabrics
1 x 1 Rib 1 x 1 rib fabric is produced with the loops knitted alternatively to the face and back of the fabric on successive wales.
10 where C is a constant according to the fabric structure.
Fabric weight per running metre = Courses/cm x100 x Number of wales x loop length (cm) x Yarn Tex x C
Double Jersey Rib Derivative Structures
Weft Knitting – Purl or LinksLinks Knitting
Plain Knit
1x1 Purl
Weft Knitting – Purl or LinksLinks Knitting
Top slider
Classification of double jersey weft knitting machines
Double jersey weft knitting machines
双面针织机分类
Weft knitting machines can have two sets of needles. These are called double jersey machines Weft knitted fabrics produced on machines with two sets of needles are called double jersey fabrics
Fabric length / 8 shift (cm) = Number of feeders x rpm x 8 x 60 x E% x F Courses/cm
The Factor F is included to take into account the fact that a full course of loops is not always knitted at a feeder. E % is the efficiency of the machine.
Solution
1x1 Rib ( F=1, C=2)
Length (m) = 40 x 25 x 0.9 x 60 x 1 = 49.1 metres/hour 11
Width (cm) = 14 x 20 x π = 110 cm (open width) 8
Weight/m²(g/m²) = 11 x 8 x 50 x 0.5 x 2 = 440 g/m² 10
Weft Knitting - Double jersey
fabrics
Notation
Interlock
Weft Knitting - Double jersey fabrics Interlock
Double Jersey Derivative Structures
Double Jersey Derivative Structures