针织学(双语)课件Chapter7
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针织学(双语)课件Chapter15
Lesson 15 The manufacture of hosiery on small-diameter circular machines
1
15.1 Types of hosiery
Hose, which have a leg-length extending above the knee
3
15.2 Classes of hosiery machines
Except for the few Griswold type hand-turned machines(Fig.4.4), all hosiery machines are of the revolving cylinder type. This arrangement offers the advantages of high revolution speeds, a simplified drive, and the possibility of selectively striping-in yarn from stationary packages placed at fixed feed positions around the cylinder. The three types of hosiery machines, in order of their increasing complexity and needle bed arrangement, are single cylinder, cylinder and dial and double cylinder.
Micromesh is similar although less effective because it contains less tuck stitches.
1
15.1 Types of hosiery
Hose, which have a leg-length extending above the knee
3
15.2 Classes of hosiery machines
Except for the few Griswold type hand-turned machines(Fig.4.4), all hosiery machines are of the revolving cylinder type. This arrangement offers the advantages of high revolution speeds, a simplified drive, and the possibility of selectively striping-in yarn from stationary packages placed at fixed feed positions around the cylinder. The three types of hosiery machines, in order of their increasing complexity and needle bed arrangement, are single cylinder, cylinder and dial and double cylinder.
Micromesh is similar although less effective because it contains less tuck stitches.
针织学(双语)课件Chapter12
20
12.4.4 Needle selection shaping
In needle selection shaping, the selvedge needle(s) is introduced or withdrawn from the knitting width by means of needle selection. 1.By transferring and re-transferring rib loops in conjunction with needle bed racking 2.By pressing-off loops, or 3.By causing needles to hold their loops for large numbers of traverses
Lesson 12 Welts, garment sequences and knitting to shape
1
12.1 The welt 关边
A welt is an attractive and secure edge of a knitted article that helps to prevent laddering or unroving of a structure.
3.to knit a number of courses in a soluble yarn such as alginate.
13
12.4 Imparting shape during knitting The three methods of width shaping are: 1 varying the number of needles in action in the knitting width 2 changing the knitting construction 3 altering the stitch length.
针织服装概论第7章PPT课件
• 在电脑横机上可以通过程序控制，利用带有扩圈片的移 圈针，在两个针床针处于移圈对位的情况下，将一个针 床上的线圈转移到另一个针床上。
16
❖ 成形编织
▪ 为了达到成形的要求，可采用的 方法：
• 利用组织结构和织物密度的变化。 • 通过增减参加工作的针数使所编
织的产品的宽窄和形状发生变化。
▪成型是横机编织的一 个重要特点，也是横 机能够存在和发展的 一个重要原因。
14
起头空转 1.5K
❖ 起口与翻针
▪ 起口
• 2+1（假2+2）罗纹下摆采用2隔1 选针，前后针床针槽相错（针对 齿）编织，如右图第2、3横列所 示。但在空针上起头时，如果采 用这种排针容易形成大线圈，即 相邻两枚针形成一个线圈，为此， 一般先将后针床（或前针床）向 左（或向右）移动一个针距，如 右图第1横列所示，然后再进行正 常编织，就可以避免形成大线圈。
• 握持式放针，是使前面退出工作但 针钩里仍然含有线圈的织针重新进 入工作。（利用休止机）
• 将边缘线圈先套到新加入的针上， 然后将上一横列线圈套到移去线圈 的空针上，编织下一横列。
– 特点：较复杂，边缘质量最好。
20
（1） （2） （3）
❖ 成形编织
▪ 二、收针（减针）
• 定义
– 收针，也叫减针，是通过各种方式减少参与编织的织针 针数，从而达到缩减编织物宽度的目的。
横机前后针床的配置
5
❖ 1、编织部分的一般结构
▪ 编织机构截面图 ▪ 舌针和针床及其配置 ▪ 三角及三角座
6
❖ 1、编织部分的一般结构
7横机机头
❖ 1、编织部分的一般结构
▪ 导纱器
导纱器的结构
8
面纱孔 地纱孔
16
❖ 成形编织
▪ 为了达到成形的要求，可采用的 方法：
• 利用组织结构和织物密度的变化。 • 通过增减参加工作的针数使所编
织的产品的宽窄和形状发生变化。
▪成型是横机编织的一 个重要特点，也是横 机能够存在和发展的 一个重要原因。
14
起头空转 1.5K
❖ 起口与翻针
▪ 起口
• 2+1（假2+2）罗纹下摆采用2隔1 选针，前后针床针槽相错（针对 齿）编织，如右图第2、3横列所 示。但在空针上起头时，如果采 用这种排针容易形成大线圈，即 相邻两枚针形成一个线圈，为此， 一般先将后针床（或前针床）向 左（或向右）移动一个针距，如 右图第1横列所示，然后再进行正 常编织，就可以避免形成大线圈。
• 握持式放针，是使前面退出工作但 针钩里仍然含有线圈的织针重新进 入工作。（利用休止机）
• 将边缘线圈先套到新加入的针上， 然后将上一横列线圈套到移去线圈 的空针上，编织下一横列。
– 特点：较复杂，边缘质量最好。
20
（1） （2） （3）
❖ 成形编织
▪ 二、收针（减针）
• 定义
– 收针，也叫减针，是通过各种方式减少参与编织的织针 针数，从而达到缩减编织物宽度的目的。
横机前后针床的配置
5
❖ 1、编织部分的一般结构
▪ 编织机构截面图 ▪ 舌针和针床及其配置 ▪ 三角及三角座
6
❖ 1、编织部分的一般结构
7横机机头
❖ 1、编织部分的一般结构
▪ 导纱器
导纱器的结构
8
面纱孔 地纱孔
针织学(双语)课件Chapter20
2
1.
2.
3.
4.
20.1 Basic principles 基本原则
Carefully arranged variation of one or more of the above conditions enables patterns, surface interest, relief and open-work structures to be knitted, as the guide lines below indicate: Variation in the threading/穿纱的 of one or more guide bars (guides threaded with different types of yarn or empty guides without yarn). Variation in the extent of underlaps Varying the rate of warp supply/送纱比 or selectively tensioning the warp threads at certain courses.
1.
5
2
The guide bar threading for one width repeat is usually shown in its correct relative position between the needle spaces at the first link of the design. Overlaps composed of only a single thread will be inclined, whereas loops produces by the overlaps of two bars lapping in opposition will be smaller and upright. Wales will be drawn together where underlaps pass across between them and will separate at points where no underlaps cross, producing net pillars/孔柱 in the former and net openings/孔眼 in the latter (Fig 20.2).
1.
2.
3.
4.
20.1 Basic principles 基本原则
Carefully arranged variation of one or more of the above conditions enables patterns, surface interest, relief and open-work structures to be knitted, as the guide lines below indicate: Variation in the threading/穿纱的 of one or more guide bars (guides threaded with different types of yarn or empty guides without yarn). Variation in the extent of underlaps Varying the rate of warp supply/送纱比 or selectively tensioning the warp threads at certain courses.
1.
5
2
The guide bar threading for one width repeat is usually shown in its correct relative position between the needle spaces at the first link of the design. Overlaps composed of only a single thread will be inclined, whereas loops produces by the overlaps of two bars lapping in opposition will be smaller and upright. Wales will be drawn together where underlaps pass across between them and will separate at points where no underlaps cross, producing net pillars/孔柱 in the former and net openings/孔眼 in the latter (Fig 20.2).
针织学(双语)课件Chapter17
The number of links per course /每横列所需链块数 is fixed for each machine. A minimum of two is usually required, with the underlap occurring between the second link of one course and the first link of the next.
8
The guides
The guide bar
9
17.5 Single needle bar structures
10
A swing motion (fig.17.1 A-A) and a shogging movement (fig.17.1 B-B) act at right-angles to each other in order for their threads to form overlap and underlap paths that combine as one thread path around the needles.
15
17.7 the chain links 链条
A chain notation/垫纱数码记录 is a list ,in correct sequence of chain link numbers, spaced into knitting cycles, for each guide bar necessary to produce a particular fabric structure repeat (Fig.17.4D). The difference between the first two links is normally the overlap.
针织学(双语)课件Chapter1
14
1.9 The basic knitting action of a needle
1. The needle is in the rest position. 2. The loop is cleared from the hook to a lower position. 3. The new yarn is fed to the needle. 4. The yarn is formed into a ‘new’loop. 5. The hook is closed. Basic knitting action of a needle 6. The new loop is drawn through the head of the old loop. Simultaneously the old loop is cast off or knocked over. 7. Old loop hangs from the feet of the fully formed new loop.
22
1.11.3 The advantages of the latch needle
1. The rest position. The head of the needle hook is level with the top of the verge of the trick. The loop formed at the previous feeder is in the closed hook.
knitting machine
Warp knitting machine
5
1.1 Machine knitting
needle hook 针钩 newly-fed yarn
针织学原理PPT课件
针织学未来的发展趋势
数字化与智能化
可持续发展
随着信息技术和人工智能的发展，针织学 将更加注重数字化和智能化技术的应用， 以提高生产效率和产品质量。
环保意识的提高将促使针织学更加注重可 持续发展，研究环保型材料和生产技术， 降低对环境的负面影响。
个性化与定制化
跨界融合
随着消费需求的多样化，针织品将更加注 重个性化与定制化的发展，满足消费者的 独特需求。
家纺领域
针织产品柔软的质地和丰富的 纹理使其在家纺领域也大受欢 迎，如床单、毛巾、窗帘等。
医疗领域
针织产品具有良好的透气性和 抗菌性能，适用于制作医疗用 品，如绷带、手术服等。
环保领域
针织产品可降解，适用于制作 环保袋、桌布等环保用品。
针织产品的市场需求与发展趋势
市场需求
随着人们对舒适度和时尚度的追求，针织产品的市场需求不断增长。
针织学将与其他领域（如时尚、医疗、运 动等）进行更多的跨界融合，开发出更多 具有创新性和实用性的产品。
THANK YOU
感谢聆听
袜子设计：分析袜子的结构设计对穿 着舒适度的影响，探讨如何通过合理 的结构设计提高袜子的舒适性。
毛衣设计：研究毛衣的流行趋势，讨 论如何将时尚元素融入毛衣设计，提 高产品的市场竞争力。
05
针织产品应用与市场
针织产品在各领域的应用
服装领域
针织产品因其舒适性和透气性 ，广泛应用于服装领域，如T恤
、毛衣、运动服等。
针织学原理ppt课件
目
CONTENCT
录
• 针织学概述 • 针织原理与工艺 • 针织材料与性能 • 针织产品设计 • 针织产品应用与市场 • 针织学研究与发展
01
针织学概述
针织学(双语)课件Chapter10
The face yarn prevents the arms of the fleecy
tucks being visible between the wales on the face.
3
A typical knitting sequence for producing three-
thread fleecy/添纱衬垫,三线衬垫:
fleecy yarn 衬垫纱 tie-in yarn 地纱
top throat 上片喉
lower throat 下片喉
4
A typical knitting sequence for producing three-
thread fleecy/添纱衬垫,三线衬垫:
ground yarn 地纱
upper sinker belly 上片颚
7
10.4 Plush 毛圈
The elongated plush sinker
loops/拉长的毛圈沉降弧 are formed over a higher knock-over surface than the normal-length ground sinker loops/地纱沉降弧 with which they are plated. Henkel plush or velour/毛圈绒 is achieved during finishing, by cropping or shearing/剪绒 the plush sinker loops in both directions.
5
A typical knitting sequence for producing three-
thread fleecy/添纱衬垫,三线衬垫:
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9
7.4 Multi-step butt set-outs 多级选针齿配置
Straight (diagonal or up-and-up) butt set-out:
The pattern width is equal to the number of available pattern but positions.
10
7.4 Multi-step butt set-outs 多级选针齿配置
Mirror repeat (up-and-down or geometric) butt set-out:
This set-out produces a symmetrical design width.
11
7.5 Selection devices 选针装置
Chapter 7
Pattern and selection devices
1
7.1 Weft knitted patterns 纬编花色织物
Generally, patterns are
produced in weft knitted structures based on a choice of different types of stitch. Patterning is determined by selection of needle butts – either to pass onto a raising cam to knit or to miss the cam
8
7.4 Multi-step butt set-outs 多级选针齿配置
The total number of different heights often
directly influences the width repeat in wales. It is
generally most convenient to arrange and retain a butt set-out that is a factor of the needle bed. Two most common geometrical butt set-outs: • straight/步步高 • mirror repeats/对称
• coarse gauge
• has now been replaced by electronic jacquard selection
21
7.9 Multi-step geometric needle selection 多级选针片选针
The pattern drums/提花滚筒 are either drilled with holes to receive push-in metal pegs/纹 钉 or are equipped with grooved tricks for the insertion
16
7.7 Selection area arrangement 选针区域配置
Pattern wheels/提花轮
17
7.7 Selection area arrangement 选针区域配置
It provides
only one
selectionቤተ መጻሕፍቲ ባይዱwidth at each
device.
Fixed geometric selection devices/固定范围选针
•electronically-initiated selection/电子选针
12
7.6 Element selection 选针
Element selection involves three aspects:
1. The initiation and presentation of the
selection decision by the presence or absence of a tooth, a peg, a punched hole or an electronic impulse.
action of a raising butt following, or failing to follow the profile of a raising cam during a stitch formation cycle.
15
7.7 Selection area arrangement 选针区域配置
of pattern jacks/选针片 whose
butts are snipped off according to the pattern.
22
7.10 Needle selection by disc 圆齿片选针
It uses revolving
stacks of discs at each feed selection position. The replaceable disc/ 圆齿片 stacks are rotated in unison with the machine drive.
profile.
5
7.2 Different lengths of butt 不同针踵长度
The principle of butt
lengths is that the element
with the longest butt is always contacted first as a cam is brought into operation and the shortest
Selection devices vary considerably in their facilities and their pattern-changing and pattern-area capabilities.
selection devices include:
•mechanically-initiated selection/机械选针
14
7.6 Element selection 选针
Element selection involves three aspects:
3. The translation of the selection decision into
a knitting movement. This is a mechanical
13
7.6 Element selection 选针
Element selection involves three aspects:
2. The transmission of the selection decisions from the device and their reception by elements. One of three methods is employed: • Employing individual raising cams • Selectively pushing the elements upwards to align their raising butts into action. • Selectively retracting the elements into the interior of their tricks.
profile and not be lifted.
2
7.1 Weft knitted patterns 纬编花色织物
The width of the pattern in wales/花宽 is
determined by how many needles can be selected
separately, independently of each other. The pattern depth in courses/花高 is dependent upon the number of feeds with selection facilities and whether the selection can be changed during
where two cam tracks/双针道 are used.
7
7.3 Different butt positions 不同针踵位置
In single-jersey multicamtrack/单面多针道 (raceway) machines, needle butts may be positioned in one of between 2 and 5 cam tracks that, at every feed position, have fixed but exchangeable knitting, tucking or missing cams.
butt is affected only when
the cam is fully in action.
6
7.3 Different butt positions 不同针踵位置
The principle of different butt positions is
employed in the interlock cam system/双罗纹三角系统,
18
7.7 Selection area arrangement 选针区域配置
It hold a
limited number
of different selection
widths.
Non-fixed geometric selection devices/非固定范围选针
19
7.7 Selection area arrangement 选针区域配置
4
7.2 Different lengths of butt 不同针踵长度
A butt of normal length extend
7.4 Multi-step butt set-outs 多级选针齿配置
Straight (diagonal or up-and-up) butt set-out:
The pattern width is equal to the number of available pattern but positions.
10
7.4 Multi-step butt set-outs 多级选针齿配置
Mirror repeat (up-and-down or geometric) butt set-out:
This set-out produces a symmetrical design width.
11
7.5 Selection devices 选针装置
Chapter 7
Pattern and selection devices
1
7.1 Weft knitted patterns 纬编花色织物
Generally, patterns are
produced in weft knitted structures based on a choice of different types of stitch. Patterning is determined by selection of needle butts – either to pass onto a raising cam to knit or to miss the cam
8
7.4 Multi-step butt set-outs 多级选针齿配置
The total number of different heights often
directly influences the width repeat in wales. It is
generally most convenient to arrange and retain a butt set-out that is a factor of the needle bed. Two most common geometrical butt set-outs: • straight/步步高 • mirror repeats/对称
• coarse gauge
• has now been replaced by electronic jacquard selection
21
7.9 Multi-step geometric needle selection 多级选针片选针
The pattern drums/提花滚筒 are either drilled with holes to receive push-in metal pegs/纹 钉 or are equipped with grooved tricks for the insertion
16
7.7 Selection area arrangement 选针区域配置
Pattern wheels/提花轮
17
7.7 Selection area arrangement 选针区域配置
It provides
only one
selectionቤተ መጻሕፍቲ ባይዱwidth at each
device.
Fixed geometric selection devices/固定范围选针
•electronically-initiated selection/电子选针
12
7.6 Element selection 选针
Element selection involves three aspects:
1. The initiation and presentation of the
selection decision by the presence or absence of a tooth, a peg, a punched hole or an electronic impulse.
action of a raising butt following, or failing to follow the profile of a raising cam during a stitch formation cycle.
15
7.7 Selection area arrangement 选针区域配置
of pattern jacks/选针片 whose
butts are snipped off according to the pattern.
22
7.10 Needle selection by disc 圆齿片选针
It uses revolving
stacks of discs at each feed selection position. The replaceable disc/ 圆齿片 stacks are rotated in unison with the machine drive.
profile.
5
7.2 Different lengths of butt 不同针踵长度
The principle of butt
lengths is that the element
with the longest butt is always contacted first as a cam is brought into operation and the shortest
Selection devices vary considerably in their facilities and their pattern-changing and pattern-area capabilities.
selection devices include:
•mechanically-initiated selection/机械选针
14
7.6 Element selection 选针
Element selection involves three aspects:
3. The translation of the selection decision into
a knitting movement. This is a mechanical
13
7.6 Element selection 选针
Element selection involves three aspects:
2. The transmission of the selection decisions from the device and their reception by elements. One of three methods is employed: • Employing individual raising cams • Selectively pushing the elements upwards to align their raising butts into action. • Selectively retracting the elements into the interior of their tricks.
profile and not be lifted.
2
7.1 Weft knitted patterns 纬编花色织物
The width of the pattern in wales/花宽 is
determined by how many needles can be selected
separately, independently of each other. The pattern depth in courses/花高 is dependent upon the number of feeds with selection facilities and whether the selection can be changed during
where two cam tracks/双针道 are used.
7
7.3 Different butt positions 不同针踵位置
In single-jersey multicamtrack/单面多针道 (raceway) machines, needle butts may be positioned in one of between 2 and 5 cam tracks that, at every feed position, have fixed but exchangeable knitting, tucking or missing cams.
butt is affected only when
the cam is fully in action.
6
7.3 Different butt positions 不同针踵位置
The principle of different butt positions is
employed in the interlock cam system/双罗纹三角系统,
18
7.7 Selection area arrangement 选针区域配置
It hold a
limited number
of different selection
widths.
Non-fixed geometric selection devices/非固定范围选针
19
7.7 Selection area arrangement 选针区域配置
4
7.2 Different lengths of butt 不同针踵长度
A butt of normal length extend