纺织英语第三版课文中文翻译

Lesson Two Cotton Properties and Uses

A relatively high level of moisture absorption and good wicking properties help make cotton one of the more comfortable fibers. Because of the hydroxyl groups in the cellulose, cotton has a high attraction for water. As water enters the fiber, cotton swells and its cross section becomes more rounded. The high affinity for moisture and the ability to swell when wet allow cotton to absorb about one-fourth of its weight in water. This means that in hot weather perspiration from the body will be absorbed in cotton fabrics, transported along the yarns to the outer surface of the cloth and evaporated into the air. Thus, the body will be aided in maintaining its temperature.相对较好的吸湿性和良好的芯吸性使棉纤维成为最舒适的纤维之一。因为纤维素的羟基基团，使得棉花对水有很强的吸引力。当水进入纤维棉，棉开始膨胀，其截面变得更圆。这种高度的亲水性和潮湿时溶胀的性能使棉花可吸水达到其重量的1/4左右。这意味着，在炎热的天气里，身体的汗液会被棉织物吸收，沿着纱线输送到衣物外表面并蒸发到空气中。因此，这对维持体温有帮助。

Unfortunately, the hydrophilic nature of cotton makes it susceptible to water-borne stains. Water-soluble colorants such as those in coffee or grape juice will penetrate the fiber along with the water; when the water evaporates, the colorant is trapped in the fiber. Perhaps the major disadvantage to cotton goods is their tendency to wrinkle and the difficulty of removing wrinkles. The rigidity of cotton fiber reduces the ability of yarns to resist wrinkling. When the fibers are bent to a new configuration, the hydrogen bonds which hold the cellulose chains together are ruptured and the molecules slide in order to minimize the stress within the fiber. The hydrogen bonds reform in the new positions, so that when the crushing force is removed the fibers stay in the new positions. It is the rupture and reformation of the hydrogen bonds that helps to maintain wrinkles, so that cotton goods must be ironed.遗憾的是，棉纤维的亲水性使得它容易受到水渍。如咖啡或葡萄汁的水溶性色素会随着水分渗入纤维；当水分蒸发后，着色剂会停留在纤维上。也许棉产品主要的缺点就是其会起皱以及难以抗皱。棉纤维的刚性使得纱线抗皱性能降低。当纤维弯曲成新的结构时，将纤维素链连结起来的氢键断裂，同时分子滑移以减少纤维中的应力。氢键在新的位置重键，因而挤压的外力去除，纤维停留在新的位置。正是氢键的断裂与重键使得织物保持褶皱，所以棉织物需要熨烫。

Cotton is a moderately strong fiber with good abrasion resistance and good dimensional stability. It is resistant to the acids, alkalies, and organic solvents normally available to consumers. But since it is a natural material, it is subject to attack by insects, molds and fungus. Most prominent is the tendency for cotton to mildew if allowed to remain damp.棉纤维是具有良好的耐磨性和尺寸稳定性，强度适中的纤维。它耐酸，耐碱以及有机溶剂，消费者普遍接纳。但由于它是一种天然物质，它受昆虫，霉菌和真菌攻击。最突出的是棉一旦放在持续潮湿的环境下会发霉。

Cotton resists sunlight and heat well, although direct exposure to constant strong sunlight will cause yellowing and eventual degradation of the fiber. Yellowing may also occur when cotton goods are dried in gas dryers. The color change is the result of a chemical reaction between cellulose and oxygen or nitrogen oxides in the hot air in the dryer. Cottons will retain their whiteness longer when line-dried or dried in the electric dryer.棉纤维耐光，耐热，尽管直接暴晒在持续的强光下会引起发黄，并最终引起纤维的降解。变黄也可能出现在棉产品被气体干燥剂干燥时。颜色的变化是纤维素和氧或二氧化氮在热空气中干燥的化学反应的结果。棉花自然挂干或烘干机烘干会长时间保持其白度。

Of major interest is the fact that cotton yarn is stronger when wet than when dry. This property is a consequence of the macro-and micro-structural features of the fiber. As water is absorbed, the fiber swells and its cross section becomes more rounded. Usually the absorption of such a large amount of foreign material would cause a high degree of internal stress and lead to weakening of the fiber. In cotton, however, the absorption of water causes a decrease in the internal stresses. Thus, with less internal stresses to overcome, the swollen fiber becomes stronger. At the same time, the swollen fibers within the yarns press upon each other more strongly. The internal friction strengthens the yarns. In addition, the

absorbed water acts as an internal lubricant which imparts a higher level of flexibility to the fibers. This accounts for the fact that cotton garments are more easily ironed when damp. Cotton fabrics are susceptible to shrinkage upon laundering.值得关注的是，棉纱线在潮湿环境下比在干燥环境下强度更大。这种性质是棉纤维宏观和微观结构特征的结果。当水被吸收，纤维膨胀，其截面变得更圆。通常这种大量的外来物质的吸收会导致内部应力较高，导致纤维弱化。然而，棉纤维吸水导致内部应力减少。因此，减少克服内部应力，肿胀的纤维变得强度更大。同时，纱线中的溶胀纤维之间的互相挤压更强烈，内部的摩擦力增强了纱线强度。此外，所吸收的水作为一种内部润滑剂，赋予纤维较高水平的灵活性。这解释了棉衣物潮湿时更容易熨烫，棉织物洗水时易收缩。

Perhaps more than any other fiber, cotton satisfies the requirements of apparel, home furnishings, recreational, and industrial uses. It provides fabrics that are strong, lightweight, pliable, easily dried, and readily laundered. In apparel, cotton provides garments that are comfortable, readily dried in bright, long-lasting colors, and easy to care for. The major drawbacks are a propensity for cotton yams to shrink and for cotton cloth to wrinkle. Shrinkage may be controlled by the application of shrink-resistant finishes. Durable-press properties may be imparted by chemical treatment or by blending cotton with more wrinkle-resistant fibers, such as polyester.棉也许比其他任何纤维更能满足服装，家居家具，休闲和工业用途的要求。它提供了强度大，轻薄，柔软，快干，易清洗功能的织物。在衣物方面，棉带来了舒适、在光下快干、色彩持久、容易打理的服饰。它主要的缺点是棉纱线会缩水和棉布会起皱。缩水可以应用防缩后整理来控制。耐用性能可以通过化学处理或在棉纤维混纺中使用抗皱纤维，如涤纶来实现。

In home furnishings, cotton serves in durable, general-service fabrics. Although they may lack the formal appearance of materials made from other fibers, cotton goods provide a comfortable, homey environment. Cotton fabrics have been the mainstay of bed linens and towels for decades, because they are comfortable, durable, and moisture-absorbent. Polyester/cotton blends provide the modern consumer with no-iron sheets and pillowcases that retain a crisp, fresh feel.在家居用品中，棉产品担当了实用而全方位服务的织物。虽然他们可能没有其他纤维材质的美观，但棉织品（为我们）提供了一个舒适，温馨的环境。棉织物一直是几十年来的床单和毛巾的主要材质，因为他们非常舒适，耐用且具有吸湿性。涤/棉混纺织物为现代顾客提供了无须熨烫的床单和枕套，保持织物清新。

For recreational use, cotton has traditionally been used for tenting and camping gear, boat sails, tennis shoes and sportswear. Cotton is particularly well-suited for tent. A tent fabric must be able to "breath", so that the occupants are not smothered in their own carbon dioxide. Furthermore, exchange of air with the outside atmosphere reduces the humidity within the tent and keeps it from becoming stuffy. Fabrics woven from cotton can be open enough to provide good air permeability for comfort. Tents should also shed water, when wet by rain, cotton yarns swell, reducing the interstices between the yarns and resisting the penetration of water. Today, however, heavy canvas gear is being supplanted by light-weight nylon in tenting equipment.娱乐用途上，棉织物一向应用于帐篷和野营装备、船帆、运动鞋和运动服。棉织物特别适合制作帐篷。帐篷织物必须能够“呼吸”，让居住者不会被自己的二氧化碳窒息。此外，与外界空气的流通减少了帐篷里面的湿度并使它不变得那么闷热。棉的机织物可以充分拉开，它具有良好的透气性以供舒适。帐篷应该能使水分流走，当被雨水打湿，棉纱膨胀，减少纱线之间的间隙，提高防水性。然而，沉重的帆布齿轮将被轻质尼龙帐篷装备取代。

Cotton cord, twine and ropes are used in industry to bind, hold, and lash all kinds of things, from bales to boats. Cotton yarns are used to reinforce belts on drive motors and in work clothing.

棉线，麻绳和绳索被应用在捆绑、拉伸、鞭打各种物品的行业中，成捆吊上船。棉纱线用作电动机和工作服的加强带。

Lesson Five Structure and Properties of Wool

Under the microscopic observation, the length of the wool fiber shows a scale structure. The size of the scale varies from very small to comparatively broad and large. As many as 700 scales are found in 1 cm of fine wool, whereas coarse wool may have as few as 275 per cm. Fine wool does not have as clear

and distinct scales as coarse wool, but they can be identified under high magnification.显微观察下，羊毛纤维的长度显示出鳞片结构。鳞片的大小不同，很小到相当宽大都有。1厘米细羊毛里面可以找到700个鳞片，而粗毛每厘米少到275个。细羊毛没有粗羊毛那样清晰突出的鳞片，但他们可以在高倍镜下辨识出来。

A cross section of wool shows three distinct parts to the fiber. The outer layer, called cuticle, is composed of the scales. These scales are somewhat horny and irregular in shape, and they overlap, with the top pointing towards the tip of the fiber; they are similar to fish scales. The major portion of the fiber is the cortex (composed of cortical cells ); this extends toward the center from the cuticle layer. Cortical cells are long and spindle-shaped and provide fiber strength and elasticity. The cortex accounts for approximately 90 percent of the fiber mass. In the center of the fiber is the medulla. The size of the medulla varies and in fine fibers may be invisible. This is the area through which food reached the fiber during growth, and it contains pigment that gives color to fibers.羊毛的横截面显示出了三个不同部分的纤维。外面那层，称为角质层，由鳞片形成。这些鳞片形状有点棱角，并不规则又互相重叠，由毛根指向毛尖；它们类似鱼鳞。纤维的主要部分是皮质（由皮层细胞构成）；它延伸至角质层的中心。皮质细胞呈长梭形，赋予了纤维一定的强度和弹性。皮质大概占了纤维团的90%。在纤维的中心是中腔。中腔的尺寸不一，细羊毛可能是看不见（中腔）的。这是在纤维生长过程中养分到达了纤维部分，里面包含了给纤维上色的染料。

Wool fibers vary in length from 3.8 to about 38 cm. Most authorities have determined that fine cools are usually from 3.8 to 12.7 cm; medium wool from 6.4 to 15.2 cm; and long (coarse) cools from 12.7 to 38 cm.羊毛纤维长度在3.8到38厘米不等。多数专家已判定，细羊毛通常从3.8到12.7厘米；中毛从6.4到15.2厘米；长（粗）毛从12.7到38厘米。

The width of wool also varies considerably. Fine fibers such as Merino have an average width of about 15 to 17 microns; whereas medium wool averages 24 to 34 microns and coarse wool about 40 microns. Some wool fibers are exceptionally stiff and coarse; these are called Kemp and average about 70 microns in diameter.羊毛的宽度也有很大的差别。细羊毛如美利奴，有约15至17微米的平均宽度；而中羊毛平均为24至34微米和粗羊毛约40微米。有些羊毛纤维非常僵硬和粗糙，这些就是所谓的死毛，平均直径约70微米。

The wool fiber cross section may be nearly circular, but most wool fibers tend to be slightly elliptical or oval in shape. Wool fibers have a natural crimp, a built-in waviness. The crimp increases the elasticity and elongation properties of the fiber and also aids in yarn manufacturing. It is three-dimensional in character; in other words, it not only moves above and below a central axis but also moves to the right and left of the axis.羊毛纤维横截面为近圆形，但大多数羊毛纤维往往形状略呈椭圆形或卵形。羊毛纤维天然卷曲，有内置的波纹。卷曲增加了纤维的弹性和延伸性，也有助于纱线制造。它呈三维结构的；换句话说，它不仅围着纤维轴上下缠绕而且左右缠绕。

There is some luster to wool fibers. Fine and medium wool tends to have more luster than very coarse fibers. Fibers with a high degree of luster are silky in appearance.羊毛纤维有光泽。细中的羊毛往往比较粗的羊毛纤维有光泽。光泽度高的纤维外观光滑。

The color of the natural wool fiber depends on the breed of sheep. Most wool, after scouring, is a yellowish-white or ivory color. Some fibers may be gray, black, tan or brown.天然羊毛纤维的颜色取决于羊的品种。冲刷后，大多数毛，是淡黄色偏白色或象牙色。有些纤维可能是灰色的，黑色的，褐色或棕色。

The tenacity of wool is 1.0 to 1.7 grams per denier when dry; when wet, it drops to 0.7 to 1.5 g/d. Compared with many other fibers, wool is weak, and this weakness restricts the kinds of yarns and fabric constructions that can be used satisfactorily. However, if yarns and fabrics of optimum weight and type

are produced, the end-use product will give commendable wear and retain shape and appearance. Fiber properties such as resiliency, elongation, and elastic recovery compensate for the low strength.

羊毛的强度是干燥时1至1.7克/旦；湿润时，它下降到0.7至1.5克/旦。与其他许多纤维相比，羊毛较弱，这一弱点限制了纱线和织物满足人们可用的结构种类。然而，一旦最佳重量和类型的纱线和织物生产出来后，最终使用的产品将会带来超赞的耐磨性，保形性和外观。纤维的性能如回弹性、延伸性和弹性恢复率弥补了其低强度的不足。

Wool has excellent elasticity and extensibility. At standard conditions the fiber will extend between 20 and 40 percent. It may extend more than 70 percent when wet. Recovery is superior. After a 2 percent elongation the fiber has an immediate regain or recovery of 99 percent. Even at 10 percent extension, it has a recovery of well over 50 percent, which is higher than for any other fiber except nylon.

羊毛纤维具有优良的弹性和灵活性。在标准条件下，羊毛纤维能延伸20%至40%之间。潮湿环境下，它可以延伸到70%以上。恢复率超强。施加2%伸长之后，纤维能够立即恢复，恢复率达到99%。甚至在10%的延伸后，它也有50%以上的恢复率，除了尼龙，它比其他任何纤维都要高。

The resiliency of wool is exceptionally good. It will readily spring back into shape after crushing or creasing. However, through the application of heat, moisture and pressure, durable creases or pleats can be put into wool fabrics. This crease or press retention is the result of molecular adjustment and the formation of new cross-linkages in the polymer. Besides resistance to crushing and wrinkling, the excellent resilience of wool fiber gives the fabric its loft, which produces open, porous fabrics with good covering power, or thick, warm fabrics that are light in weight. Wool is very flexible and pliable, so it combines ease of handling and comfort with good shape retention.羊毛的回弹性非常好。它可以在碾压折皱之后恢复原形。然而，通过加热、加湿和施力，持久的折痕或皱纹会在羊毛织物上形成。这种折痕的持久是分子的变动和聚合物中新的交叉链的形成结果。除了抗压抗皱，羊毛纤维优良的回弹性赋予织物活力，这样形成了通气多孔的织物的良好的遮盖力，厚而保暖的植物的重量轻。羊毛非常灵活柔软，所以它结合简易的操作性和良好的保形性于一身。

The standard moisture regain of wool is 13.6 to 16.0 percent. Under saturation conditions, wool will absorb more than 29 percent of its weight in moisture. This ability to absorb is responsible for the comfort of wool in humid, cold atmospheres. As part of the moisture absorption function, wool produces or liberates heat. However, as wet wool begins to dry, the evaporation causes heat to be absorbed by the fiber, and "chilling" may be experienced, though the chilling factor is slowed down as the evaporation rate is reduced. The property of moisture absorption and desorption peculiar to wool and similar hair fibers is called hygroscopic behavior. Wool accepts colors and finishes easily because of its moisture absorption properties.羊毛的标准回潮率为13.6%～16%。饱和条件下，羊毛能吸收其重量29%以上的水分。这种吸收能力，使得羊毛在潮湿、冷气的环境下生存。至于吸湿功能，羊毛产生并释放热量。然而，当湿羊毛开始干燥，蒸发引起的热气被羊毛纤维吸收，尽管当蒸发率降低时致冷因素减缓，但羊毛经历了制冷。羊毛和类似头发纤维的这种吸收湿气和脱浮的特有的性能称为吸湿行为。毛的染色和后整理也因其吸湿性能变得简单容易操作。

Despite the absorption properties of wool, it has an unusual property of exhibiting hydrophobic characteristics. That is, it tends to shed liquid easily and appears not to absorb moisture. The cause is a combination of factors: interfacial surface tension, uniform distribution of pores, and low bulk density. These moisture properties help make wool very desirable for use in a variety of situations where moisture can be a problem to comfort.尽管羊毛具有吸收性能，它也显示出疏水特性的独特性能。那就是说，它往往容易流动液体却不吸收水分。原因是多种因素的结合：界面表面张力，孔隙分布均匀与低的容积密度。这些水分特性使羊毛可以非常理想地使用在各种情况下，水分成为了一个容易解决的问题。

Wool fibers are not dimensionally stable. The structure of the fiber contributes to a shrinking and felting reaction during processing, use and care. This is due, in part, to the scale structure of the fiber. When subjected to heat, moisture, and agitation, the scales tend to pull together and move toward the

fiber tip. This property is noticeable in yarns and fabrics and is responsible for both felting and relaxation shrinkage.羊毛纤维没有稳定的尺寸。纤维的结构有助于加工、使用、保养过程中的缩绒和毡缩反应。在某种程度上，这是因为纤维的鳞片结构。当受到加热，加湿和搅拌处理时，鳞片拉在一起指向毛尖。这是纱线和织物的显著性质，决定了毡缩和缩绒回缩率。

Lesson Fourteen Staple Fiber Spinning (1)

Staple fibers arrive at the yarn processing plant in large bales. To make yarns, fibers must be of similar length and relatively uniform so that the spun yarn can be of uniform quality. To accomplish this, fibers from a variety of production lots, fields, or animals must be blended together.短纤维用大棉仓送至纺纱加工厂。为了织造纱线，纤维必须长度接近、相对均匀，这样纺出来的纱线才能达到稳定的质量。为了完成这一点，不同生产批号、来自不同产地和动物身上的纤维必须先混合在一起。

Several bales or cartons of fibers are placed in the opening, cleaning, and blending area. Some fibers from each bale or carton are fed into the opener and blender. It is important to separate or "open" the fiber mass to a single fiber state, or as close to that as possible. The opening and blending machines separate the fibers and blend fibers from the different bales or cartons. The technique used differs according to the type of opening or blending machine used.在开清棉车间，不同棉包或棉箱的棉花被开松、除杂、混合。每个棉包或棉箱的棉花部分被喂入开棉机和混棉机。尤其重要的是要分散并“开松”棉（纤维）团至单根纤维状态，尽可能地接近这种状态。开棉机和混棉机将从不同棉包(箱)取来的棉纤维开松并混合。采用的工艺随开棉机、混棉机类型的不同而有差异。

In the intermittent system the fibers are separated from the bales and fed onto a spiked apron or lattice that carries the fibers from the feed area to the cleaning and opening area. The opening operation separates the fibers into a loose, fluffy mass. These loose fibers are fed into a hopper, where a measured amount is laid on a conveyor belt and delivered to the picking unit, where additional blending occurs. The picker further opens, cleans, and blends fibers through a system of rollers and forced air. The blend of fibers is blown onto a collecting cylinder to form a fiber layer. As the cylinder rotates, the layer of fibers is rolled off to form the picker lap. This is then taken to the card unit.在间歇性纺纱系统中，纤维由成捆被拆分并喂入皮圈或输送帘，它们（皮圈或输送帘）会将纤维从喂穿机构传送至除杂、开松机构。开松机器将纤维分离成蓬松的纤维团，这些松散的纤维被喂入棉箱，以一定量放置在传送带并送达至清棉装置，进一步进行混合。清棉机进一步通过罗拉和高压气流系统进行开松、除杂并混合。混合后的纤维被吹送至集棉锡林，形成了纤维层。当锡林旋转时，纤维层滚落下来形成棉卷，之后被送至梳棉机构。

During this operation most of the dirt and impurities that might be present are removed by either gravity or centrifugal force. Cotton fibers receive more opening and blending than man-made fibers, since they have more impurities and greater variation than do man-made fibers.在此工序,大部分尘土和杂质通过重力和离心力的作用被除去。棉纤维将比人造纤维经历更多开松和除杂程序，因为棉纤维与人造纤维相比，杂质更多，不均匀度更大。

The continuous system for making ring-spun yarns takes fibers directly from the bale and processes them automatically through to at least the card sliver state. Further steps may be connected to the card so that the card sliver moves on through additional processes automatically. The various steps in making ring-spun yarns are descried in the following paragraphs.在生产环锭纱线时,如果采用连续加工系统,则纤维从棉包开始,要自动加工至少到梳棉棉条（生条）阶段。下一步的加工可以与梳棉机联接,这样棉条会自动地进入下一工序。织造环锭纺纱线的不同步骤会在下一段加以描述。

Bales are placed into some type of automatic fiber feed unit. Metal fingers pull tufts of fiber from the bale. These fibers are fed to the opening, cleaning, and blending area; they are then conveyed to a hopper for direct feed to the carding frame. Slivers from the card go directly to the drawing frames and may

actually be fed continuously through to the roving process.棉包被放置在某种自动喂棉机上,金属抓棉刀片从棉包中抓取棉块,然后将棉块送至开清混棉区；之后棉纤维运送入棉箱传送给梳棉机。从梳棉机出来的棉条可直接进入并条机,实际上也可直接喂入粗纱机。

Yarns made on automatic equipment tend to be more uniform and may be stronger than discontinuous process yarn. Production speed is considerably faster for continuous processes, labor costs are reduced, and plants stay cleaner.在自动装置上生产的纱线与用间歇性系统生产的纱线相比,条干更均匀,强度更高。连续化生产的速度较高,节省人力,工厂也比较清洁。

No matter which system is used, the quality of the final yarn is dependent largely on the selection of fibers and on the thoroughness of the opening, cleaning, blending, and picking operations.不管采用怎样的加工系统,纱线的最终质量主要取决于原料的选择和开棉、除杂、混棉的彻底性以及清棉加工。

In the intermittent or discontinuous systems the picker lap is placed at the rear of the card frame to supply fibers. In the automatic system the fibers are held in a hopper and fed in a loose form directly to the card. Carding continues the cleaning of the fibers; it removes fibers too short for use in yarns. The process partially aligns the fibers so that their longitudinal axes are some what parallel. Carding is accomplished by wire cards or granular cards. Wire cards contain two layers of card clothing consisting of wire flats (rectangular shapes) in which free wire fine wire pins are anchored. The flats are attached to a steel cylinder and to an endless belt that rotates over the top portion of the cylinder. The two sets of pins move in the same direction, but at different speeds, to tease the fibers into a filmy layer, so that a thin web of fibers is formed on the cylinder. This thin web is gathered into a soft mass and pulled into a ropelike strand of fibers, called a sliver. The sliver is pulled through a cone-shaped outlet and doffed or delivered to cans or to a conveyer belt. Granular cards are similar to wire cards except that the card clothing is made of a rough granular surface somewhat similar to rough sandpaper.

在间歇性系统中,清棉棉卷放置在梳棉机的机尾处,为梳棉机提供原料。如果采用自动化的加工系统,纤维则通过喂棉箱以松散纤维的形式直接喂入梳棉机。梳棉工序继续进行除杂工作,除去不宜纺纱的短纤维。在此工序纤维大部分被理顺,

这样纤维沿轴向呈一定程度的平行状态。梳棉工作是由钢丝梳棉机或微粒梳棉机完成的。钢丝梳棉机由两层针布组成，针布由组合盖板(长方形)组成,在盖板上置有细细的梳针。有的盖板则固定在锡林上;有的被固定在一个环状的带子上,

带子沿锡林上方回转。两组梳针的运动方向相同,但速度不同,目的是将纤维梳理成薄薄的一层。这样在锡林上就形成了一个薄薄的纤维层。薄薄的纤维层汇聚成一个柔软的棉束并被拉伸成条子,通常被称之为棉条(生条)。棉条从喇叭口输出,被送到条筒内或传送带上。微粒梳棉机与针布梳棉机相似,不同的是其"针布"表面是粗的微粒,与粗砂纸相似。

The card sliver is not completely uniform in diameter, and the fibers are somewhat random in arrangement. Some fabrics are made of yarns that have received only this carding operation prior to drawing and roving formation. However, some fabrics require yarns of finer quality, particularly fine-quality cotton fabrics, and these require combed yarns rather than carded. When cotton and man-made fibers are combined. It is common for the cotton fibers to receive the combing step before the two types of fibers are combined. For yarns that require the additional step, the card sliver goes through the breaker-drawing step and then to the combing operation.梳棉棉条的直径并不是完全均匀的。其内部纤维是随意排列的。有一些织物是由在并条、粗纱工序之前只进行梳棉的纱线制成的。但是如果织物需要高质量的纱线,特别是一些高级棉织物,就需要精梳纱而不是粗梳纱。当棉与人造纤维混纺时,通常二者混合这前,棉纤维要经过精梳工序。对于需要精梳的纱线,梳棉棉条通过头道并条后,进入精梳工序进行加工。

Lesson Fifteen Staple Fiber Spinning (2)

For high quality cotton yarns of superior evenness, smoothness, fineness, and strength, fibers are combed as well as carded. Card slivers are fed to the breaker-drawing frame, where several card slivers are combined. The break-drawing unit pulls out the fibers into a thin layer, and reforms a new sliver. The drawing is accomplished by controlling the speed of a series of rollers. Each set of which operates faster

than the one behind it. The layer of slivers is pulled through the rollers at increasing speeds; as the layer leaves the unit, the fibers are pulled into a new sliver and delivered to cans ready for the combing frame. Forty-eight slivers from the breaker-drawing unit are combined to form the lap for the comber. The slivers are fed through a lapper that makes them to a thin layer of fibers that is wound onto a roll. These rolls, each weighing about 13.6 kg, are taken to the combing frame. The layer of fibers is fed into the combing area, where fine metal wires clean out remaining short fibers and impurities and further parallel the fiber in the comber lap.为了生产高度均匀、光滑、纤细并具有较高强度的高质量棉纱,纤维既要经过粗梳(梳棉),也要经过精梳。梳棉棉条喂人头道并条机,在头道并条机上几根梳棉棉条并合在一起。头道并条机将梳棉棉条的纤维梳理平行顺直并拉伸成薄层,再重新形成棉条。牵伸(抽长拉细)是通过控制一系列罗拉的转速变化来实现的。沿棉层的前进方向,每一对罗拉的转速均高于前一对罗拉的转速。这样棉层在高速时被罗拉拉出。在棉层被输出时,被拉伸成一根新的棉条,送至精梳机的条筒。在头道并条机上出来的48根棉条并合在一起制成精梳机所需要的棉条。送入成卷机的棉条被拉伸成薄层并卷绕在筒管上。这些每个重约13．6公斤的筒管放置在精梳机上。纤维层被输送至梳理区，梳理区的细梳针将残留的短纤维及杂质清除，并使精梳条子中的纤维进一步排列顺直。

During the combing operation as much as 20 percent of the fibers may be removed. This waste is sold to manufacturers of non woven products and to others who have use for short fibers. The fibers remaining form a thin web or layer; this web of fibers is pulled together, fed through a cone and under a geared wheel that helps to hold the fibers together, and delivered as a comb sliver.在梳棉过程中，多达20%的纤维会被除掉。这些被浪费的纤维被销售给无纺布的制造业其他需要使用短纤维的人。留下的纤维形成一个薄薄的纤维网或叫纤维层。纤维层通过一个喇叭口及一个齿轮被拉伸，以便汇聚在一起,输出成为精梳棉条。

Finisher drawing末道并条

Slivers from either the carding unit or the combing unit, depending on the ultimate yarn desired, are processed through the finisher-drawing or drafting frame. This is the process by which fibers of different types can be blended together to form blended yarns. Eight slivers are draw get her to produce the drawn sliver. If a 50/50 polyester/cotton blend is to be made, there will be four slivers of polyester fiber and four of cotton; if a 65/35 blend is ordered, there will be five polyester slivers and three cotton. As with breaker drawing, rollers moving at different speed smooth and combine the slivers and pull them into a thin layer and then into the drawn sliver.从梳棉机或精梳机下来的棉条,根据对纱线的最终要求,进一步在并条机上加工。在此工序,不同类型的原料进行混合,以便生产混纺纱线。八根梳棉条并合在一起被牵伸成熟条。如果要生产50/50涤棉混纺纱,应该由四根涤纶条子与四根棉条并合。如果要生产65/35涤棉混纺纱,应该由五根涤纶条子与三根棉条并合。正如头道并条一样,不同速度的罗拉将条子并合、理顺并牵伸成薄层,然后并合成熟条。

The finisher-drawing operation is usually repeated. The second time, however, eight slivers from the first fisher -drawing step are subjected to the same operation. The drawn sliver is about the same size as, or perhaps slightly smaller than, the card or comb slivers. As yet no twist has been 'imparted into the fiber assemblage, although the delivery of the sliver to the cans tends to twist the sliver slightly.末道并条工序经常重复。在进行第二次并条时,第一个并条机生产的八根棉条被送到第二个并条机上进行同样的梳理。生产的熟条与粗梳条或精梳条直径相同或稍细。目前为止尚未给汇聚在一起的条子加过捻,但在将条子导入条筒时有弱捻加入。Roving粗纱工序

Slivers from the finisher drawing are taken to the roving frame, where each sliver will be attenuated until it measures approximately one-eighth of its original diameter. The drawn sliver is fed between sets of rollers. Each set of rollers rotates faster than the set behind it, the front rollers rotate about ten times faster than the back set of rollers. This pulls the fibers out, reduces the diameter of the strand, and further parallels the fibers. A slight amount of twist is imparted to give strength. The new strand, called roving, is laid onto a bobbin. Roving is wound onto the bobbin package at approximately 27 meters per minute. The full bobbins are doffed from the frame and delivered to the spinning frame.

从末道并条出来的熟条直接供给粗纱机。在粗纱机上,棉条被慢慢拉细至约为原来直径的1/8。熟条从罗拉之间喂入,沿条子的前进方向,罗拉的转速逐渐提高。前罗拉转动的速度比后罗拉快10倍。这样就对条子产生了牵伸作用,从而降低

其直径,并进一步使纤维平行排列。条子上加上了弱捻以赋予强度,新形成的纱条称为粗纱,被卷绕到筒管上。粗纱以每分钟27米的速度卷装在筒管上。满卷的筒管从机器上落筒并被送到细纱工序。

Spinning细纱

The final process in ring spinning of single yarn is the spinning operation. During spinning the roving is attenuated to the desired diameter, called the final draft, and the desired amount of twist is inserted. The roving is fed down into the spinning area, where it feeds between sets of rollers. Just as in the roving step, the front set of set rotates faster than the back set. In spinning, the front set rotates about 30 times faster than the back set. This difference in speed attenuates the yarn and makes it even, smooth, and uniform. The attenuated yam is fed down, guided through a U-shaped guide, called a traveler, which moves around the take-up package or bobbin on a ring, hence the name "ring spinning". The movement of the traveler and the turning of the spindle on which the bobbin is held combine to introduce twist into the yam. The spindle turns at about13000 revolutions per minute; the traveler is slightly slower. Approximately 11 meters of yarn is wound onto the bobbin per minute. The size of yarn and the amount of twist, cited as turns per meter, can be controlled. The yam manufacturing steps discussed to this point produce a single yarn.利用环锭纺纱工艺纺制单根纱线的最后一个工序是细纱。在细纱生产中,粗纱被逐渐拉伸至需要的直径,称为最后一道拉伸，同时需要的捻度被加进。粗纱从细纱机的上方喂入,并通过一对对的罗拉。与粗纱工序相似,前罗拉的转速高于后罗拉的转速。在细纱中，前罗拉的转速比后罗拉的转速快30倍左右。这样速度的差使纱条抽长拉细，变均匀，变光滑。拉伸变细的纱线向下方输送,并受到一个被称为钢丝圈的U型导纱件的控制。钢丝圈围绕卷装或筒管在钢领上回转,"环锭纺纱"的名字就是这样得来的。筒管上钢丝圈的移动和锭子的转动联合给纱线加捻。锭子大约每分钟转动13000转；钢丝圈稍慢一点。每分钟大约有11米纱线被卷绕到筒管上。图1显示了细纱的工序。纱线的尺寸和加捻的数量，以每米纱线的捻回度表示，这可以被控制。细沙加工到这一步就形成了单纱。

Lesson Twenty-Seven Warping

If the fabric forming system is weaving or warp knitting, some or all of the yarns forming the fabric are presented in sheet form. It is necessary therefore to remove the yarn from the winding package and arrange the desired number on a package called a beam. The yarns must be parallel and under uniform tension. This, then, is the purpose of warping.

如果采用机织或经编工艺生产织物,部分纱线(指机织)或全部纱线(指经编)要以片纱方式供应。因此有必要将纱线从卷装上退绕下来,再按所需的根数卷绕到筒管也就是经轴上。纱线必须相互平行,且张力均匀,这就是整经的目的。

Before thinking about winding a specified number of yarns on a beam, first consider the problem of positioning the package from which the yarn is taken in such a manner so as to facilitate the removal of yarn. Also keep in mind that the number of yarns per beam is in the hundreds or thousands and that there must, at least, be one supply package for each of these yarns. It is logical, therefore, to build a frame of some sort to hold the supply packages in a manner so as to facilitate warping. To accomplish this purpose creels are equipped with package holders on which the supply packages are placed, tension device to help maintain uniform tension through out the creel, guides to direct the yarn and to help keep the ends apart, antistatic devices to eliminate static charges by the rubbing of the yarn against the various surfaces, and stop motions to detect broken ends and/or empty packages.

在将特定数目的纱线卷绕到经轴上之前,首先应考虑筒子的位置要便于纱线的退绕。还应记住,每个经轴上的纱线可能是几百根,也可能是几千根,每根纱线至少应有一个供纱筒子。因此,设置一个某种形式的架子来摆放筒子以便于整经是有道理的。为达此目的,筒子架上设有筒子插座,筒子插在插座上，张力装置使所有的纱线保持均匀的张力；导纱器用来引导纱线并使纱线分开；抗静电装置用来消除纱线与构件表面摩擦产生的静电荷；停车装置用来监测断纱和空筒。

In theory, the size of the creel (and therefore the number of packages it may hold) is unlimited. In practice, and not considering purchase price, the creel size is limited by two factors. The first of these is floor space. A creel must be housed in the building and therefore it necessarily uses some of the facilities of that building. Since the creel produces nothing tangible to offset the cost of housing and maintenance,

it is important that it consume as little of these as possible:从理论上讲,筒子架的大小(即它所能容纳的筒子的数目)是没有限制的。在实际生产中,不考虑价格因素,筒子架的大小受到两方面的限制。第一是占地面积,筒子架必须安装在车间内,因此就必须使用该车间的设备。因为筒子架不会产生任何实质性的东西来补偿安装和保养费用，所以尽量减少成本是很重要的。

The second factor is the yarn itself. In theoretical discussions, yarn weight, especially for short lengths of yarn, is neglected. In considering a very large creel, it is obvious that some of the supply packages must be very much further away from the point where the beam is being formed than others. Also, the yarn must be supported to keep it from dragging on the floor and tangling. Each support acts as a capstan tension device. Thus, it is important to keep the packages in a distance range where the effect of yarn weight and the effect of supports as tensioners may be neglected. Hence the size and, therefore, the capacity of the creel is limited. In general, maximum creel capacity ranges from about 300 packages for very heavy yarns to 1400 packages for thin yarns. As will be seen later, creel capacity is an important factor in warping.第二是纱线因素,纱线的重量,特别是纱线输送距离较短时,是可以忽略不计的。如果筒子架很大,很明显,有的筒子离经轴的距离比其它筒子要远得多。另外纱线必须被支撑,使其不致垂向地面或相互纠缠。每一个支撑件都相当于一个倍积法张力装置,因此应该使筒子之间的距离保持在一定的范围内,使纱线重量及支撑件对纱线张力的影响可以忽略不计。因此筒子架的大小及容量是有限度的。一般情况下,筒子架容量为300个筒子(粗重纱线)到1400个筒子(细纱线)。正如将在后文看到的，纱架的容量是整经的重要因素。

Creels may be classified by the number of creel positions per end supplied. Using this classification, creels are either single or multiple package creels.

筒子架可以按每根纱线的供纱筒子的个数分类,采用这种分类方法,筒子架可分为单式筒子架和复式筒子架两种。

To achieve higher beaming efficiency, single package creels are often used in various combinations. If the winding head, or headstock, is fixed, often non-stationary single end creels are moved in and out of position as required. These creels are called truck creels. Truck creels require that floor space be reserved for the empty creel. A more space efficient set-up results if the headstock is capable of being moved. Creels used in this manner are known as duplicated creels. The advantage of a duplicated creel is the lack of need for any empty creel space in which to moves an expended creel.为了获得较高的整经效率,多采用各种组合的单式筒子架。如果机头或车头固定不动,经常采用可移动的单式筒子架,可以按需要移入或移出筒子架,这种筒子架称为移动式筒子架。使用移动式筒子架时,需要为空筒子架保留占地。如果车头能移动,可得到较高的空间利用率,这种筒子架被称之为双联筒子架。这种筒子架优点是，不需要为空筒子架设置空间。

In one type of multiple package creel , known as a magazine creel, more than one package is provided for each end. The packages are tied head-to-tail so warping can continue when one package is exhausted.有一种复式固定筒子架，叫复式筒子架。每根经纱有不止一个筒子为其供纱。筒子上的纱线首尾相连，以此保证当筒子上的纱线用完时整经连续进行。

Another multiple package creel is known as the traveling package creel. Instead of moving creels or headstock when fresh packages are required, the packages themselves are moved into position. With a traveling package creel, the replacement of empty packages with full ones, or creeling , is done in the center while the packages in use are on the outside.另一种复式筒子架是复式移行筒子架。需要新筒子时，不用移动筒子架或者机头，筒子会自动移进相应位置。对复式筒子架来说，空筒子代替已满筒子移至筒子架中间，而正在使用的筒子位于筒子架外侧。

The yarn is now ready to be put on a beam. The manner in which this is done depends up on the capacity of the creel, the number of ends required in the final beam and the necessity, if any, of

maintaining a pattern in the warp, e.g., for warp strips in the fabric.现在纱线已经准备就绪，可以卷绕至经轴上。整经方式取决于纱架容量、经轴最终要求的经纱根数和保持花纹的必要性，如织物中的经条纹。

If the creel capacity is sufficiently high and the total number of ends required is sufficiently low or, if creel capacity is not sufficient to supply all the required ends and no distinct yarn pattern is required, then beam warping is generally used. Beam warping is simply the winding of yarns directly from the supply packages onto a beam. This beam is called a section beam since, except for the case in which all the required ends can be put on a single beam, it contains only a section of the warp required.

如果纱架容量足够大，而所要求的经纱数量很低，或者纱架容量不能够满足所要求的经纱数，且没有特别的花纹要求，则经常用轴经整经。轴经整经就是简单地将纱线从供纱筒直接卷绕到经轴上。这个经轴叫分批整经轴。因为除了所有要求的经纱卷绕到一个经轴的情况，它只含有所要求经纱的一部分。

If, however, with insufficient creel capacity, it is necessary to build a warp beam containing the totality of ends required or if the warp yarns have to be arranged in a definite order, then drum warping is used. In drum warping, the warp is not wound directly from the creel onto the beam but rather sections of the warp are wound onto a pattern drum. In this manner the entire warp is built up in a series of sections on the pattern drum. When the total number of warp ends required in the fabric has been wound on the pattern drum, they are all removed simultaneously and wound upon a beam. This beam contains the exact number of ends required in the warp.Also, because when the ends are taken from the creel and wound on the pattern drum, exact placement in relation to each other may be made. The final beam maintains this placement, and hence any pattern in the warp.但如果纱架容量不足，有必要用轴经整经，以包含所需要的所有经纱。如果纱线必须按一定顺序排列，则要用分条整经。分条整经中，经纱不直接从纱架上卷绕到经轴上，而是以经纱条带卷绕到分条整经大滚筒上。用这种方法，所有的经纱都能在大滚筒上以一系列经纱条带排列好。当织物所需经纱全部卷绕到分条整经大滚筒后，所有经纱要同时退绕并卷绕到一个经轴上，这个经轴含有整经所要求的确切经纱数。而且当经纱从纱架退绕并卷绕到分条整经大滚筒时，纱线间的相对位置已确定，最后在织轴上会保持这种排列。这样，任何经纱的花形（色纱排列）都会保持下来。

In general, for warp knitting, the yarn for the entire fabric is not put on a single beam, but rather put up on a series smaller section beams which contain only a portion of the ends required for a full-width fabric. These beams may be produced either by beam or drum warping methods. If the yarn is to be used for warp knitting, it is usually ready at this point to go to the next knitting machine. If, however, the yarn is to be used in weaving, it generally must undergo one further operation, slashing.总的来说，经编织物所需要的全部经纱不只卷绕到一个经轴上，而是卷绕到一系列较小的分批整经轴上。这些经轴只包含一个全幅宽织物所需经纱的一部分。这些经轴由轴经整经或者分条整经获得，如果纱线用于经编，这时候通常即可进入下一个针织工序。但如果纱线用于机织，常常还要进一步加工，即上桨。.

Lesson Twenty-Eight Warp Sizing

In the weaving process, the warp yarns are subjected to rubbing and chafing against metal by being threaded through drop wires, heddles and reed; they are constantly being rubbed together during shedding; they are subjected to tension both constant, by the let-off and take-up, and intermittent, by the shedding and beat-up. All of these lead to conditions which are favorable to end breakage, an occurrence which should be minimized.在织造过程中,经纱由于穿过停经片、综丝和钢筘而承受着与金属的摩擦。在开口过程中经纱之间也存在着连续不断的摩擦。在卷取和送经过程中受到拉伸，以及开口和打纬时受到间歇力的作用，所有这些都会导致经纱的断头,而经纱断头应尽量减少。

Thus, it is desirable to produce as high a quality warp as possible, one which will withstand the rigors of weaving. This is the purpose of slashing or warp sizing.

因此,我们希望经纱具有尽可能高的质量,使其能够承受织造过程中的上述剧烈作用,这就是经纱上浆的目的。