砂带机制作方法与图纸

OK folks, there hasn’t been a grinder tutorial for sometime now, whenever I post one of mine up they get a lot of interest so thought I would show you how to make one of theseIt’s basically a KMG clone uses 1600 to 2000 x 50 belts and the great thing about these machines is there adaptability. It’s very simple to have a platen grinding head, contact wheel or small wheel attachmentA general overview of the construction is, all welded main frame, sliding type tool arm lockable with a single fastener, single knob tracking system with variable spring tension, main drive pulley is 100mm Dia x 55mm wideTracking pulley is 80 mm Dia ‘crowned’ x 55mm wide platen rollers 45mm Dia x 50mm wide. This will be run with a 2hp motor and three speed drive.For those of you that have seen one of these in action you’ll know just how good they really are!! As for the plan, their isn’t one, I’ve made quite a few of these now and the majo r problem that I have is obtaining a regular supply of steel the sizes that I want, so I make them with the steel that’s available to me,The good news is that all the dimensions given are quite adaptable; as long as you stick to very similar sizes you sho uldn’t go wrong.I will start of by making the main frame (the blue bit) first, It’s an all welded construction making for a very rigid frame, the disadvantage is you will need to be very careful in getting it clamped up square and spot on before you weld, as I’m sure you will appreciate it’s a real pain having to grind off welds when you get them wrong!I intend to complete the grinder right through to fitting the motor and running it.So here we go then let’s make a grinderThis is the steel that will be required to make the main frame and tracking arm, all materials are Bright mild steelA = Tracking arm = 300 x 30 x 10mmB = Tracking arm up-right = 100 x 30 x 10mmC = Tracking hinge materials = (see separate bit on the tracking)D = Main frame top section = 325 x 35 x 10mm (or use 1.5inch x 3/8inch)E = Main frame side = 325 x 55 x 8mm (or 10mm )F = Main frame side = 325 x 55 x 8mmG = Main frame Bottom section = 390 x 35 x 10mmH = Front up-right = 150 x 50 x 10mmI = Front stand = 300 x 50 x 10J = Rear up-right/bearing carrier = 150 x 65 x 10mmK = Rear stand = 300 x 50 x 10mmL = Rear up-right/bearing carrier = 150 x 65 x 10mmM = Main tooling arm = 500 x 35 x 35 mmHere is there corresponding position on the frameNow before we get the MIG out we need to drill a few holesI will be using SFT20 bearing for the main drive pulley, so we have to drill the up-rights (items J and L 150x65x10) measure down from the top, 25mm (this is where the first 11.5mm hole goes), mark the centre line, and drill to suit the bearings, make the main mounting holes 11.5mm and the centre hole 25mm that way it allows for a bit of adjustment.The tracking arm up-right (item B 100x30x10) mark the centre and measure down 15mm from the top drill (8.5mm) and tap M10The two stands (items I and K 300x50x10) mark the centre line measure in 15mm from each end drill 6mm from one end only measure in 50mm and drill 10mm (this is for the motor mounting frame, not shown yet)Right now with that successfully done we move onto the next bit, this is where we get serious, we now have to make a box around the main tool arm, to make this as easy as possible we will use the tool arm as a jig,You will need several clamps and bits of metal to get this right, place the top and bottom box sections opposite each other on the tool arm, we will need a bit of clearance here so insert a couple of thin (1mm) bits of steel between the tool arm and bottom section clamp into place, fitthe sides, position so the top is level and clamp into place, you should have the lower section with 65mm protruding out from the back ( G on the third picture down)When happy with your clamping, tack weld in several places, remove clamps check for square and alignment and that the tool arm slides in and out easily if your happy with it weld it up, then grind and clean up the welds on the top section,Now we will fit the rear up-rights (item J and L) when I make these I always drill as a pair, when it comes to welding them into place they need to be spaced at 38mm apart on the inside edge this is to allow one of the drive bearings to fit between the up-rights, this is best done with a block of metal (I use an off-cut from the tooling arm @35mm plus 3x 1mm shims making 38mm)Position the up-rights as in the photo (above)and use the tool arm to make sure they are in line with side A (this is the side the tool arm clamps against so everything must be aligned with this side) use a square to get them exactly up-right when you are happy with the position weld into place, (do not remove the spacer block) should look like this if you got it rightNext is the front up-right (item H 150x50x10) using a block position 35mm back from the front of the grinder, make sure its square and weld into placeIf we are doing ok you should have something like thisNow its time for the stands (items I and K 300x50x10) measure in 100mm from the end (distance A in picture below) use metal block and square to get it right when happy weld into place, now do the same with the front stand making sure that the two 10mm holes are on the opposite side to side AThe final bit of welding on the main frame is the tracking arm up-right(item B 100x30x10) position A = 15mm in and B = 35mm in make sure its square and weld into positionIf progress is going to plan you should have something like thisThat’s it for now folks next instalment is the tracking arm, tracking hinge and tracking pulley1.OK folks here we go again next instalment is the tracking arm and hinge assy, this iswhat we are going to make next with the steel positions marked on it, it calls for a bit of precision welding and is probably the most difficult bit to make on the grinder.This is the materials requiredList all materialsA = tracking arm 300 x 30 x 10 mm BMSB & D = 40 x 16 x 16mm BMSC = 80 x 25 x 5mm BMSE = 30 x 25 x 5mm BMS (for the spring platform)F = 8mm Dia silver steel x 80mm longG = 16mm Dia x 50 mm BMS drilled and reamed 8mmH = 45 x 40 x 10mm BMSFirst up is the tracking arm, you need to drill two 10mm holes in the tracking arm (item B 300x30x10) mark out the centre line measure in 15mm from each end and drill 10mm, next mark out the centre line on the top edge of the arm, find the middle, mark it, measure out 15mm from the centre mark each way and centre punch and drill 5mm then tap M6Now follow the centre line down to the bottom edge of the arm measure in 5mm centre punch, drill 6.8mm then tap M8,Next we have to drill and tap all the parts for the tracking hinge,B & D = mark the centre line, measure in 8 mm from one end and drill 8mmC = mark the centre line lengthways and across the diagonal from the centre point measure out 15mm each way and drill 8mmH = mark the centre line along the longest length measure done 20 mm drill 10.2 mm and tapM12E = mark centre line along longest length measure in 12mm drill 6.8 and tap M8Put part E to one side for the moment, and we will now put the tracking hinge together, using a length of M8 threaded bar put the blocks B & D either side of the tube item G and lightly tighten place onto item C as in photo ( I have chamfered the edges for a better weld)clamp together and weld upWhen its cooled down remove the threaded rod and the tube item G, place the block item H on a flat plate and clamp, put the tube to the top face place it centrally and weld it up both sidesPut it to one side to cool down,, now get the main tracking arm item A with the two 6 mm threaded holes facing up measure in 85mm from the front edge and mark, place item E (upper spring platform) half way across the main arm and weld into place, use a block to get it squareIf all has gone to plan you should have something like thisNow we can put it together, use the 8mm silver steel pin and connect the tube section with the block welded to it to the upper bracket, fit the assembly to the arm with 2 x 6mm set screws and it should be something like thisThat’s it for now the next instalment we will put the main frame together with the bearings etcHere we go again with part three, we will now fit the parts to the chassis and complete it, before we go any further we have a couple of holes to drill and tap in the main frame marked A & BOn side B of the grinder mark the centre line measure in 80 mm drill and tap M12 B this is for the tool arm locking bolt, and on the top of the frame measure in 12mm from side A and measure back 85mm drill and tap M8 this is for the spring mounting AWhen that’s done we will fit the main pulley bearings, you now see the reason for making sure that the rear up-rights are 38mm apart as the bearings are 37mm deep and one goes between theup-rightsNow fit a stud to the 8mm hole on the top frame, wants to be 50mm longTemporally bolt the tracking arm into placeNow this is where we need a few more bits, if you don’t have access to a lathe you will need a friendly machinist to do some of these bits for youA = Handle, 100mm long x 19mm Dia drilled tapped M10 in one end with a small stud.B = Spring platform, 30mm Diameter, with a shoulder to fit inside the spring drilled and tapped M8C = Main tension spring ( (Elisa Tinsley & Co Ltd, Pt No 4759024)D = Tracking adjustment knob, (cant find the pt no for this got them from RS components)E = Tacking pulley, 80mm Dia, crowned with 12mm sealed bearings and attaching bolt 90x12mm with two lock nutsWe can now build up the main frame assemblyMain drive pulley fits into the bearings in the rear up-rights, spring platform screws onto the stud and the spring mounts on to that, on the top spring mount cut a 15mm length of 8mm studding and screw into the hole fit a nut on the underside this acts as the top spring locator, screw the tracking knob into the 8mm hole on the back of the tracking hinge assy, and fit the tracking pulley don’t worry about aligning it all up yet we’ll cove r that later when the platen head is made, below is a photo from the other sideNext is the tool arm, from one end of the arm mark the centre line on one side, measure in 25mm drill and tap M12 measure in 55 mm drill and tapM8 (as in photo below) on the underside mark the centre line measure in 12.5mmm and 40mm drill and tap M10 fit two studs 50mm longYou can now fit tool arm to chassisIf you only want a contact wheel it can now be fitted to the M12 holeThat’s it for now next we will make the platen hea d and mount it to the tool armIts been a while now, so its time to get on with th e build, here’s the platen head These are the major componentsA = 48dia x 50mm ally rollers 2 offB = Upper and lower brackets 10 x 50 x 100 mm BMS, measure in 25mm on opposing ends and mark off the centre join the lines up and cut the opposite corners offC = Main up-right 10 x 65 x 300 mm, measure in 30mm from the top corner to the rear and cut the corners off as in photoD = 50 x 10 x 180 this is the platenE = 25 x 6 BMS we will measure the amount we need when the head is almost builtFirst thing we need to do is mount the upper and lower brackets onto the main frame, first mark off the centre line and drill 4mm pilot hole, using a compass mark out a 30mm radius and mark of as in the centre of the main up-right drill 4mm pilot holes around the radius as photoClamp the top and bottom brackets in place drill right through with a 5mm drill evenly spaced in three places, tap the maim up-right 6mm in the top three and bottom three holes drill the main centre hole 12mm and drill the radius holes 8mm and join them up by filing them together as in the photo. Drill the three holes in the upper and lower brackets out to 6mm and countersink to accept M6 x 25mm CS screws, measure in 20mm from each corner of the upper and lower brackets and drill 8.2mm then tap M10 its vital that you get this hole tapped exactly vertical to the metal as the alignment of the rollers depend on it, then secure the upper and lower brackets in place with the screwsYou can now temporality fit the rollersOn the main up-right measure in from the front edge 20 mm and mark a line down measure 50 mm from the edge of the top and bottom brackets, drill and tap M10 Put a straight edge across the front of the rollers, put the platen where it should go and measure the distance from the hole to the back of the platen, add 20mm and cut two bits of 25 x 6mm to length (80mm on this one) drill two 10mm holes so they line up with the holes in the main up-right as in the centre of the photo, these are the platen mounting brackets, mark off the back of the platen so the brackets are exactly in the middle (that way you can turn the platen round as it wears)Clamp the brackets in place and weld up.Fit two bits of M10 studding 70mm long to each of the holes in the up-right and fit the platen using a nut and washer each side, if you got your measurements right your platen will be adjustable for depth.That’s the platen head made, next instalment we will mount it to the tool arm. I will be painting the chassis tomorrow afte r that it’s a matter of assembling it all up making sure that its all a ligned and giving it a test runI have now sprayed the chassis and painted the tracking arm, so it’s time to start building it up, here it is now complete with platen head fitted. It’s fitted with a single 12mm bolt and an 8mm knob, this allows for accurate setting of the angle of the head to the table,Next up is to make the work table and align the rollers then we will give it a test run and make sure it runs ok and tracks spot onJust posted this in tips and tricks but guess its better off here, finally got round to showing how to fit a motor to a maxigrinderThis is a really good method of fixing a motor to any machinery that has a multi pulley set up for changing the speeds, basically the weight of the motor will tension the belt, and if you use rubber bushes it also isolates the motor from the rest of the machine. This is intended as a guide only as I have not included any measurements because it will depend on the make of motor and the number of speeds and pulley diameter type of grinder etc that you are using.First up, position the motor where you want it to go, using what ever is available, make sure the pulleys are fitted so you can roughly align them.Measure up how you want the frame to be, cut and weld up, fit to machine.This is what you wil l need to make a hinge assembly, a length of 1’’ inside diameter tube, 2 x bushes (Ford Transit spring bushes Pt No F1631072) length of 12mm threaded rod and nuts, steel for the mounting plate and bracket, drill the motor mounting plate to suit the motor being used and weld up as shown (yep it’s a bit of ‘recycled’ plate)Paint it and bolt to the main motor mounting frame as above do not tighten any of the bolts, just pinch them up for now, all the holes are 10 mm with 8mm bolts this gives plenty of adjustment to align the motor properlyNow loosely bolt the motor into place, fit the belt and spend a bit of time aligning it all up, the better it is aligned the less friction is lost through the drive system, check and make sure you can lift the motor up and down and shift the belt across the different pulley sizes, once it all aligned and correct make sure all bolts are tightened correctly.This shows the motor lifted up in the change belt position, you will also see a 8mm bolt in the front of the frame, this is very important because the motor is to heavy to be supported by the belt, it just needs a bit of support, the bolt can be adjusted to allow for discrepancies in the diameter of the pulleys when changing speeds, it very simply is threaded into the main frame and a bit of rubber mounted on the underside of the motor frame sits on it thus supporting the motor. Simply raise or lower the bolt to ensure the belt is running at the correct tension.A small bracket is required for the NVR switch, wire it up to the motor (if you are unsure about any aspect of the wiring get a professional to do it) make a guard for the drive line making sure its high enough to allow for lifting the motor and you are up and running.As the motor has to be lifted in order to change speeds make sure it has stopped and the power is isolated before changing speeds。