针织学(双语)课件Chapter6
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•Fancy twist yarns / 花式捻线
•Novelty yarns / 花式纱线
•Combined use of yarns producHale Waihona Puke Baidud by different spinning or texturing processes
5
Introduction
In dyeing and finishing process:
yarn
yarn
trapper Yarn feeder cutter trapper
cutter
securely trapped
and held for later re-selection.
导 纱 机 件
Yarn finger
11
6.1 Horizontal striping 横条
The process of yarn A change to yarn B:
embroidery motif plating/ 绣花添纱
17
6.4 Individual stitch selection 单针选针
It is the most versatile and widely-employed
method of knitting designs in colour, or different
Yarn finger
The newly-selected finger 7 is introduced into the needle line. Its trapper releases the held cut end of
yarn
yarn
trapper Yarn feeder cutter trapper
cutter
yarn, allowing it to
flow from its package to the needles.
导 纱 机 件
Yarn finger
10
6.1 Horizontal striping 横条
Yarn finger
The yarn finger 3 is withdrawn from the needle circle with its yarn cut free and
•Surface interest/表面效果
3
Introduction
In fibre form:
•Diameter •Length •Cross-section •Dye uptake
•Shrinkage / 缩水
•Elastic properties
4
Introduction
In yarn form:
•Differential and cross-dyeing/交染
•Heat or chemically-derived shaping •Printing or transfer printing/转移印花
6
Introduction
At the knitting stage:
•Horizontal striping / 横条
18
6.4 Individual stitch selection 单针选针
Rules apply to individual element selection of stitches:
1. If each set of elements has butts of identical length and position, and the cam-track is fixed, each element will follow the same path and produce an identical stitch in its corresponding wale at that feeder course.
16
6.3 Plating 添纱
In sectional plating/部分添纱,
the ground yarn knits continuously across the full width whilst the plating carrier tubes supply yarn in a reciprocating movement/往复运 动 to a particular group of needles, so that the colour shows on the face.
24
6.4.1 Weft knitted jacquard 纬编提花 • two-colour jacquard 两色提花:
the first wale of each traverse or machine revolution, the design depth/花高 in feeder courses will be the number of operative feeds on the machine.
23
6.4.1 Weft knitted jacquard 纬编提花
Weft knitted jacquard designs are built up
from face loops in selected colours on a base
fabric of either single jersey, 1×1 rib, or links-links (purl).
On a large-diameter,
multi-feeder machine,
an elaborate sequence of stripes having a
depth that is repeated
at each machine revolution, is obtained.
9
6.1 Horizontal striping 横条
21
6.4 Individual stitch selection 单针选针
Rules apply to individual element selection of stitches:
4. When butts of the same element are caused to follow a different path through successive cam systems in the same machine, more than one type of stitch may be produced in the same wale.
changing by striping finger/
换线导纱器 to select one from four or five yarns at a
particular feed point during
each machine revolution.
8
6.1 Horizontal striping 横条
14
6.2 Intarsia 嵌花
Intarsia ensures that expensive yarns are fully utilized on the surface of the design. It is only generally
suitable for geometric type
22
6.4 Individual stitch selection 单针选针
Rules apply to individual element selection of stitches: 5. Unless the device is of the variable type that
can present a different selection commencing in
•Intarsia / 嵌花 •Plating / 添纱 •Individual jacquard stitch selection / 单针选针提花
7
6.1 Horizontal striping 横条
Horizontal striping provides the facility of yarn
Chapter 6
Colored stitch designs in weft knitting
1
Introduction
The five ingredients/要素 of fashion/时装:
•Colour •Style 款式 •Silhouette 线条,轮廓 •Texture 结构
•Pattern 花型
6.2 Intarsia 嵌花
A design row of intarsia
is divided into adjoining
blocks of contiguous wales. Each block of needles
knits a separate coloured
area. The yarn does not float across the backs of needle loops.
19
6.4 Individual stitch selection 单针选针
Rules apply to individual element selection of stitches:
2. If each feed in the machine has the same arrangement of fixed cams, identical stitches will be knitted in each wale at every feeder course.
2
Introduction
Ornamentation/装饰 may be introduced at the following stage:
•Fibre
The form include:
•Colours
•Yarn
•Knitting •Dyeing •Finishing
•Form of sculptured/造型
designs and not for figure designs in small areas.
15
6.3 Plating 添纱
In reverse plating/交换
添纱, two yarns (usually of contrasting colour/对比色) are caused to change over positions at the needle head by controlled movement of speciallyshaped sinkers or yarn feed guides.
1
2
3
4
a vertical view
12
6.2 Intarsia 嵌花
Intarsia is a special
method of producing
designs in knitted loops that form self-contained areas of pure colours.
13
20
6.4 Individual stitch selection 单针选针
Rules apply to individual element selection of stitches:
3. When the butts of adjacent elements are caused to follow different paths through the same cam system, different stitches may bee knitted in adjacent wales of the same feeder course.
types of stitches in self-colour/本色. Latch needle weft knitting machines are especially suitable. Depending upon machine and element design, and cam arrangement, one or more of the following stitches may be produced – knit, tuck, miss, plated, plush/毛圈, inlay, loop transfer and purl needle/双头舌针 transfer.
•Novelty yarns / 花式纱线
•Combined use of yarns producHale Waihona Puke Baidud by different spinning or texturing processes
5
Introduction
In dyeing and finishing process:
yarn
yarn
trapper Yarn feeder cutter trapper
cutter
securely trapped
and held for later re-selection.
导 纱 机 件
Yarn finger
11
6.1 Horizontal striping 横条
The process of yarn A change to yarn B:
embroidery motif plating/ 绣花添纱
17
6.4 Individual stitch selection 单针选针
It is the most versatile and widely-employed
method of knitting designs in colour, or different
Yarn finger
The newly-selected finger 7 is introduced into the needle line. Its trapper releases the held cut end of
yarn
yarn
trapper Yarn feeder cutter trapper
cutter
yarn, allowing it to
flow from its package to the needles.
导 纱 机 件
Yarn finger
10
6.1 Horizontal striping 横条
Yarn finger
The yarn finger 3 is withdrawn from the needle circle with its yarn cut free and
•Surface interest/表面效果
3
Introduction
In fibre form:
•Diameter •Length •Cross-section •Dye uptake
•Shrinkage / 缩水
•Elastic properties
4
Introduction
In yarn form:
•Differential and cross-dyeing/交染
•Heat or chemically-derived shaping •Printing or transfer printing/转移印花
6
Introduction
At the knitting stage:
•Horizontal striping / 横条
18
6.4 Individual stitch selection 单针选针
Rules apply to individual element selection of stitches:
1. If each set of elements has butts of identical length and position, and the cam-track is fixed, each element will follow the same path and produce an identical stitch in its corresponding wale at that feeder course.
16
6.3 Plating 添纱
In sectional plating/部分添纱,
the ground yarn knits continuously across the full width whilst the plating carrier tubes supply yarn in a reciprocating movement/往复运 动 to a particular group of needles, so that the colour shows on the face.
24
6.4.1 Weft knitted jacquard 纬编提花 • two-colour jacquard 两色提花:
the first wale of each traverse or machine revolution, the design depth/花高 in feeder courses will be the number of operative feeds on the machine.
23
6.4.1 Weft knitted jacquard 纬编提花
Weft knitted jacquard designs are built up
from face loops in selected colours on a base
fabric of either single jersey, 1×1 rib, or links-links (purl).
On a large-diameter,
multi-feeder machine,
an elaborate sequence of stripes having a
depth that is repeated
at each machine revolution, is obtained.
9
6.1 Horizontal striping 横条
21
6.4 Individual stitch selection 单针选针
Rules apply to individual element selection of stitches:
4. When butts of the same element are caused to follow a different path through successive cam systems in the same machine, more than one type of stitch may be produced in the same wale.
changing by striping finger/
换线导纱器 to select one from four or five yarns at a
particular feed point during
each machine revolution.
8
6.1 Horizontal striping 横条
14
6.2 Intarsia 嵌花
Intarsia ensures that expensive yarns are fully utilized on the surface of the design. It is only generally
suitable for geometric type
22
6.4 Individual stitch selection 单针选针
Rules apply to individual element selection of stitches: 5. Unless the device is of the variable type that
can present a different selection commencing in
•Intarsia / 嵌花 •Plating / 添纱 •Individual jacquard stitch selection / 单针选针提花
7
6.1 Horizontal striping 横条
Horizontal striping provides the facility of yarn
Chapter 6
Colored stitch designs in weft knitting
1
Introduction
The five ingredients/要素 of fashion/时装:
•Colour •Style 款式 •Silhouette 线条,轮廓 •Texture 结构
•Pattern 花型
6.2 Intarsia 嵌花
A design row of intarsia
is divided into adjoining
blocks of contiguous wales. Each block of needles
knits a separate coloured
area. The yarn does not float across the backs of needle loops.
19
6.4 Individual stitch selection 单针选针
Rules apply to individual element selection of stitches:
2. If each feed in the machine has the same arrangement of fixed cams, identical stitches will be knitted in each wale at every feeder course.
2
Introduction
Ornamentation/装饰 may be introduced at the following stage:
•Fibre
The form include:
•Colours
•Yarn
•Knitting •Dyeing •Finishing
•Form of sculptured/造型
designs and not for figure designs in small areas.
15
6.3 Plating 添纱
In reverse plating/交换
添纱, two yarns (usually of contrasting colour/对比色) are caused to change over positions at the needle head by controlled movement of speciallyshaped sinkers or yarn feed guides.
1
2
3
4
a vertical view
12
6.2 Intarsia 嵌花
Intarsia is a special
method of producing
designs in knitted loops that form self-contained areas of pure colours.
13
20
6.4 Individual stitch selection 单针选针
Rules apply to individual element selection of stitches:
3. When the butts of adjacent elements are caused to follow different paths through the same cam system, different stitches may bee knitted in adjacent wales of the same feeder course.
types of stitches in self-colour/本色. Latch needle weft knitting machines are especially suitable. Depending upon machine and element design, and cam arrangement, one or more of the following stitches may be produced – knit, tuck, miss, plated, plush/毛圈, inlay, loop transfer and purl needle/双头舌针 transfer.