海棠果籽油介绍(法国绿科)

GREENTECH S.A Biopôle Clermont-Limagne - 63360 Saint-Beauzire – France1GREENTECH S.A Biopôle Clermont-Limagne - 63360 Saint-Beauzire – France2TAMANOLINTRODUCTIONFirst sign of skin ageing is skin thinning. This loss is about 6% per decade in relation to initial relative thickness at birth.Nevertheless, these modifications are inequal according to each one and also depend on environmental factors.The inequal loss of different type of macromolecules of skin matrix can explain the decrease of skin smoothly, flexibility, firmness and hydration as well as wrinkles appearance.Significant changes can be observed at collagen matrix level.Skin ageing is an ineluctable physiological phenomenon, slowly progressive which can be translated particularly by a scarcity and disappearance of reticular dermis collagen beams, deep dermis located under papillar dermis which is just under epidermis.As one grows, fibroblast are losing their reproductive abilities and then collagen synthesis is getting limited.Ratio between collagen type III and collagen type I keeps increasing.Compounds application aimed at stimulating collagen synthesis must both play a preventive function as regards to skin ageing and help to improve skin microdepth.Such a stimulative activity must also improve healing which must allow prevention of dermis fibers breaking and for instance stretch marks appearance.GREENTECH S.A Biopôle Clermont-Limagne - 63360 Saint-Beauzire – France3TAMANOLPLANT DESCRIPTIONTAMANOL is the native name of the plant in TAHITI. Considered as sacral tree, it was planted around “marae” (places of royal worship and its trunk was reserved to confection of big idoles which was decorated with the nicest feathers). The olders were saying that, during human sacrifices, Gods were coming without being seen, were laying down under their shadow in order to attend to ceremony.TAMANU is a tree coming from Tropical Asia. At present, it can be found in wet tropical forests in Africa,East India, Thaïland, Indochina and more specifically in Polynesia.It is growing natively on shores coral sands.This tree with its 10 to 15 meters’ high and its thick trunk is covered with black, rugged and cracked bark.This fruit is an orange drupe which flavour reminds apple one. It contains oleaginous seeds from which oil is extracted when fruits, after reaching a certain degree of maturity, are harvested and stored in an air and dry place during 3 months.Tamanol, unfit for human consumption, presents on the other hand, by topic applications, interesting healing properties. It is particularly used traditionnally by native populations to treat skin deseases and cracks.Tamanol healing properties are very interesting in all ageing problems which are associated with degradation and rigidification of collagen fibers at dermis level.Dermis constitutes a support tissue which one gives tonus and consistance to skin. Wrinkles and stretch marks are as many imperfections damaging skin architecture.An Active likely to stimulate collagen synthesis constitutes an excellent candidate to prevent ageing.P H Y T O B I O A C T I V E S T a m a n o l GREENTECH S.A Biopôle Clermont-Limagne - 63360 Saint-Beauzire – France4TAMANOLINCI NAME : CALOPHYLLUM INOPHYLUM OILANALYTICAL CHARACTERISTICSTamanol is extracted by cold pressure from fruit almonds of Callophyllum Inophylum. The extraction fis not so easy. From extraction quality depends oil physiological quality.This oil, unlike most plant oils, doesn’t exist in mature fruit when that one falls down from the tree. It is created during almond dessication.Organoleptical characteristics :Colour : green Aspect : Viscous Density to 20°C : 0,920 - 0,940Refraction index: 1,4750 - 1,4820Iode Index: 100 - 115Peroxyde index : < 20,0 meqLipidic fraction : 98 - 99,5%Unsaponifiable : 0,5 - 2%Lipidic fraction is mainly constituted by :Neutral lipid : 90 - 92%Glycolipid : 5 - 7%Phospholipids : 1 - 2%Composition in fatty acidPalmitic acid 15 - 17%Palmitoleic acid 0.5 - 1%Stearic acid 8 - 16%Oleic acid 30 - 50%Linoléic acid 25 - 40%Arachidonic acid 0.5 - 1%Gadoleic acid 0.5 - 1%The fraction to be said unsaponifiable is made up of :- hydrocarbures with linear long chain and/or branched out sometimes unsaturated - Fatty alcohols - sterols (sitosterol and stigmasterol and methyl sterols)- Xanthone - Coumarinic derived - Calophyllic, isocalophyllic, isopetalic, chapelieric, pseudobrasilic acids - triterpenic compounds specially from friedeline familyGREENTECH S.A Biopôle Clermont-Limagne - 63360 Saint-Beauzire – France5TAMANOLCOSMETIC PROPERTIESDERMIS ARCHITECTUREDermis is constituted by two kinds of fix cells, fibroblasts and migratory cells which are the cells being involved in cellular defense.Fibroblasts synthesize all macromolecules which take part in the extracellular matrix constitution as collagen and elastin. Fibroblasts are surrounded with wealth of non mineral and non cartilaginous substances which are made up for a large part of collagen. Their activity is heavy during healing phenomenon.Actually, several types of collagen fibers are found and gathered in more or less voluminous beams. We can see in dermis, collagens of type I, III and IV, collagen of Type I being accounted for a large part. Each collagen fiber is constituted of tropollagen elementory molecules which itself is made up of three chains of several hundred of amino-acids, each one rolled up between itself as rope strands.Cohesion between collagen molecules is due, at the beginning of their formation, to electrostatic force, buttheir stability is weak and are easily soluble. Then, during collagen development a new kind of link arises :intra and intermolecular binding. They prevent fibers from sliding ones on the others, make them insoluble and decrease their sensitivity to enzyms, that constitutes one of the main characteristics of skin ageing.Then, a stimulation of native collagen has the effect of limiting ageing marksGREENTECH S.A Biopôle Clermont-Limagne - 63360 Saint-Beauzire – France6TAMANOL CYTOXICITYProduct cytotoxicity has been assessed on human fibroblasts cultures established from skin biopsies,according to explants methods.Considering its lipophile character, Tamanol has first been made soluble in Ethanol then diluted in culture environment with wanted concentration.Ethanol final concentration is 1%, concentration for which no cytotoxicity has been observed.After incubation of 72 hours, concentrations inferior or equal to 100µg/ml no lead significant changes of cellular response beside MTT.This dose has been accepted as maximal dose in order to objectivize the product.PROMOTING EFFECT OF TAMANOL ON COLLAGEN SYNTHESISThe study has been carried out on human fibroblasts.Three Tamanol concentrations have been studied.Rates of Collagen Type I secreted by cells in incubation environment have been measured by ELISA method after 3 days and 6 days culture, in absence and presence of ascorbic acid.Stimulation of collagen synthesis in presence of ascorbic acidAscorbic acid is used as a point of reference in order to stimulate collagen synthesis. In fact, Vitamin C is known to entail a significant increase in collagen synthesis by fibroblasts. Vitamin C actually activates the prolyl-hydroxylase enzym and raises quantity of coding messenger ARN for protocollagens polypeptidic chains .The aim of this study is to determine the Tamanol promoting effect on the initial collagen synthesis associated with the presence of ascorbic acid.GREENTECH S.A Biopôle Clermont-Limagne - 63360 Saint-Beauzire – France7A 16% increase in collagen rate is registered to treated cells level during 6days.Stimulation of collagen synthesis in absence of ascorbic acidDuring skin ageing, changes in skin appearance, particularly its firming and elasticity are essentially due to dermic compartment changes. A global decrease in rate of collagen Type I and coding genes expression for collagen type I and III can be observed when one’s getting older.In absence of ascorbic acid, Tamanol carries out a significant stimulation of collagen Type I biosynthesis.1234Collagen stimulation (%)0.001%0.005%0.01%TAMANOL Concentration Collagen synthesis stimulation by Tamanol is carried out according to concentration. After 3 days of incubation, it is 31%.After 6 incubation days, stimulation is 37%.The Tamanol ability to stimulate collagen synthesis, sets this active as a dermic regenerating from which exceptional properties can be put forward in the field of skin firming and healing.GREENTECH S.A Biopôle Clermont-Limagne - 63360 Saint-Beauzire – France8HEALING EFFECT OF TAMANOLThe main function of fibroblasts is to synthetize and put down around him the various extracellular constituants as collagen, structural and adhesive glycoproteins, elastin, proteoglycan as well as their degradation enzyms.The fibroblasts’ mobility and adhesion properties result from interaction between internal - actine or myosine cytoskeleton which can be found in cells - membranar receptors and extracellular proteins.In vitro fibroblasts can carry on a traction on their suport and form for instance a collagen gel which is used in equivalent-dermis rebuilding.This system of living artificial dermis (collagen lattice or equivalent dermis) enables to study the product action in physiological environment reproducing in vitro the existing matrix-cells interactions in vivo.Within collagen matrix, fibroblasts regain a differenciation close to the one they’ve got in vivo. The equivalent dermis is a selected pharmacological model for skin biology studies and particularly adapted for healing pharmacology given that this real tissue is progressively reorganizing.In a first time, Tamanol regenerating effect has been assessed by cultivated fibroblasts dynamic properties in an equivalent dermis.GREENTECH S.A Biopôle Clermont-Limagne - 63360 Saint-Beauzire – France9It appears that equivalent dermis contraction of treated batches is much more significant than the one registered on the control.123456D2D3D4These results underscore a 50% stimulation of fibroblasts contractil power in Tamanol presence.The Tamanol healing effect could be ratified thanks to its ability to raise lattice contraction inhibitiongenerated by corticoïds. In fact, hydrocortisone slows down equivalent dermis contraction.2468D2D3D4The fact of adding up Tamanol allows to raise lattice contraction inhibition generated by hydrocortisone.After 4 days of incubation, contractil power is 25% more higher on treated batches.Treatment by Tamanol enables to restore initial contractil power as in these conditions, it is equivalent to control without hydrocortisone.GREENTECH S.A Biopôle Clermont-Limagne - 63360 Saint-Beauzire – France10CONCLUSIONSThe tamanol ability to stimulate collagen synthesis appearsas a very favourable ingredient to inquired dermicregenerating effect in order to fight against ageing and to compensate decrease in collagen rate which occurs with age.Tamanol stimulates fibroblasts contractil power insuringthen a better final cohesion to equivalent dermis.The ability to oppose to direct action of corticoides on fibroblasts retraction confers on tamanu very interesting properties in healing “field” and skin tissues’ strenghtening.In this way, tamanol tackles dermic degeneration troublesobserved during ageing and constitutes an efficientprevention mean to protect skin youth reserve.GREENTECH S.A Biopôle Clermont-Limagne - 63360 Saint-Beauzire – France11COSMETIC APPLICATIONSREGENERATING CREAMSANTI-AGEING CREAMSSUN CREAMSAFTER SUN CREAMSANTI-STRETCH MARKSGREENTECH S.A Biopôle Clermont-Limagne - 63360 Saint-Beauzire – France12TOXICOLOGICAL STUDIES Ocular irritation assessment by HET-CAM methodTamanol ocular irritation is assessed on four chicken embryonic eggs of about 60 g incubated to 37% during a period of 10 days’period.Oil is deposited to chorio-allantoïdian membrane surface. After a contact of 20 seconds, membrane is rinsed with 5ml Nacl 0,9%.The appearance of injection, haemorrhage and coagulation phenomenon is sought during 5 minutes.TESTSConcentration Score/ eggs Average score Classification TAMANOL0% in parafine 0/0/0/00.0Practically non irritant Betaïne sulfo Lauryl 3%17/15/17/1716.0irritantTamanol can be considered as practically non irritant at ocular level.Skin irritation assessment by MTT methodSkin explants from healthy experimental subject are obtained during plastic surgery operation. After adipose tissue elimination, skin samples are put in survival in a suitable culture environment.Products to be tested are deposited to skin explant surface and left in contact during 20 hours.A reference tensio-active (the sodium sulfate lauryl at 20 mg/ml is also tested in parallel as cytotoxic control.A cellular viability test is carried out in order to determine the assessed product toxicity according to a viability pourcentage.TESTConcentration Average D.O.Viability percentage de in relation to control MTT classification Classification from histological analysis TAMANOL10%0.59285Non irritant Non irritantLauryl sulfate 20mg/ml 0,12519rritant 0,697100Tamanol can be classified as a non irritant product at skin level.。