皮张鞣制介绍

皮张鞣制介绍

作者：本站编辑来源：中国皮毛信息网发布时间：2008-9-1 8:26:04

现代用于皮革的工具

皮革是指鞣制处理的动物皮肤，特别是猪、牛、羊的皮肤，是一种

服装和工艺材料。带有毛发的皮革称为皮毛；其中作为服装的又称皮草。

20世纪以来还用聚氨酯、聚氯乙烯等合成高分子制造外观模仿皮

革的材料，称为“人造革”。因此来自动物的皮革也被称为“真皮”，与人

造革相对。

目录

分类

1.1 按来源

1.2 按用途

1.3 按鞣制方法

1.4 按质地

2 现代文化中的皮革

3 外在链接

分类

按来源

牛皮、水牛皮、猪皮、山羊皮、狐狸皮、貉子皮、水貂皮、兔皮、绵羊皮、羔羊皮、鹿皮、袋鼠皮、蛇皮、鸵鸟皮、鳄鱼皮、鱼皮等。

按用途

服装用革、鞋用革、鼓用革、沙发革、工业用革等。

按鞣制方法

生革：刮去残存的软组织，浸于石灰水中，然後撑开晾干而成。比进一步鞣制的皮革硬且脆，主要用于不需弯曲的部件，例如鼓皮。

植物鞣革：使用含鞣酸的植物材料鞣制。质地柔软，呈棕色。但随时间会褪色；而且不耐水，水浸干後会缩水而且变得坚硬。

矾鞣革：使用明矾等铝盐，加以胶合剂和面粉、蛋黄等蛋白质成分鞣制。质地不如植物鞣革柔软，而且在水中会烂掉。

熟革是在热水或热蜡等液体中处理使之坚硬的植物鞣革产品。传统上用来做盔甲和书籍装订。

铬鞣革：1858年发明，使用硫酸铬等铬盐鞣制。比植物鞣革柔软，褪色和缩水程度都小，并且便于染色。

脑鞣革：用乳化的脂肪（例如动物的脑组织）鞣制。非常柔软，而且耐水。

鞣制之後的皮革可以通过上油来增加柔软和耐水性。使用过程中定期上油（例如貂油）通过补充不断损失的油性来达到保养皮革的目的。

按质地

全粒面皮革是指未经人工磨去暇疵的皮革。这类皮革的质量最高。未经损伤的天然皮纹导致其耐久性、透气性最好。

修正粒面皮革是表面的皮纹被磨光的皮革，比全粒面皮革的质量要差。一般表面涂漆、烫花来掩饰无皮纹的缺陷。

起毛皮革（suede），又称翻毛皮革，是将皮革从中间剖开而造成毛绒表面。因为厚度只有修正粒面皮革的1/2以下，起毛皮革质地更不结实。有些时候厂家把起毛皮革表面上胶，压出皮纹来模仿全粒面皮革的外观，例如称作Latigo的品牌。

漆皮革（patent leather）表面有闪亮的光滑涂层，现在多为塑料涂层。

鲨革（Shagreen）is a rough and grainy type of untanned leather, formerly made from a horse's back, or that of a wild ass, and typically dyed green. Shagreen is now commonly made of the skins of sharks and rays.

鹿绒皮（buckskin）,or brained leather is a tawing process that uses animal brains or other fatty materials to alter the leather. The resulting supple suede-like hide is usually smoked heavily to prevent it from rotting.

There are two other descriptions of leather commonly used in speciality products, such as briefcases, wallets, and luggage.

Belting leather is a full grain leather that was originally used in driving pulley belts and other machinery. It is often found on the surface of briefcases, portfolios, and wallets, and can be identified by its thick, firm feel and smooth finish. Belting leather is the only kind of leather used in luxury products that can retain its shape without the need for a separate frame; it is generally a heavy weight of full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather.

Napa leather, or Nappa leather, is extremely soft and supple, and is commonly found in higher quality wallets, toiletry kits, and other personal leather goods.

The following are not 'true' leathers, but contain leather material.

Bicast leather is man-made product that contains some amount of leather. It is commonly marketed as real leather to unknowing consumers.

Bonded Leather , or "Reconstituted Leather" is not really a true leather but a

man-made material composed of 90% to 100% leather fibers (often scrap from leather tanneries or leather workshops) bonded together with latex binders to create a look and feel similar to that of genuine leather at a fraction of the cost. Bonded leather is not as durable as other leathers, and is recommended for use only if the product will be used infrequently. One example of bonded leather use is in Bible covers.

Leather is sold in a variety of thicknesses. In some parts of the world top-grain thicknesses are described using weight units of ounces. Although the statement is in ounces only, it is an abbreviation of ounces per square foot. The thickness value can be obtained by the conversion:

1 oz/ft² = 1/64 inch (0.4 mm)

Hence leather described as 7 to 8 oz is 7/64 to 8/64 inches (2.8 to 3.2 mm) thick. The weight is usually given as a range because the inherent variability of the material makes ensuring a precise thickness very difficult. Other leather manufacturers state the thickness directly in millimetres.