一针一线创造出来的中国古代纺织品

夏商周：纺织品被赋予了身份和地位的象征夏商时期纺织原料主要是以丝麻为主。

商周时期，纺织品逐渐开始被赋予了身份和地位等社会意义，彰显严格的等级制度，冠服制度开始确立，奠定了丝织品在中国纺织历史上至高无上的地位。

从夏代起，纺织品已经成为交易物品，出现了纺织生产发达的中心城镇，形成了以纺织生产为业的专业氏族。

束丝（绕成大绞的丝）成了规格化的流通物品。

丝绸贸易也已达到了相当的水平。

商代丝织物的品种有所增加，绢、组、绣、罗、印绘等种类的织物都有出土记载。

商周时期，在一些大型贵族墓葬中还出土了为数不少的玉蚕等实物，也证实了当时的丝织业开始受到人们信仰和原始宗教的影响。

西周时期，具有传统性能的简单纺织机械，如缫车、纺车、织机等就已经相继出现。

还出现了专织绞经织物的罗机。

此外，这一时期的染色技术不断提高，“青、黄、赤、白、黑”五种主要颜色已经出现，并用不同颜色的丝帛服装来区分身份等级。

先秦两汉：初具规模纹样多变这一时期逐渐形成了黄河流域、巴蜀地区和长江中下游三大丝织业中心。

其中以黄河流域最为重要。

政府专门设立了专为皇室各种场合生产锦、绣、纨、绮等高档织物的机构——御府尚方织室。

而黄河下游的齐鲁之地也成为丝绸织绣的生产重地。

自战国时期起，巴蜀地区以成都为主，蚕织事业已初具规模。

主要以织锦而著称。

蜀锦的织造有着独特的整经工艺，在长期的发展过程中形成独特的风格，品种和色彩纹样。

自秦以来，麻布的精粗程度开始以升来表示。

周代的麻织技术与丝织技术不相上下。

秦汉以来，大麻布和一般苎麻布都是老百姓的日常衣料。

战国到汉代时期丝织物主要分布在当时的楚地——两湖地区，织绣种类达到几十种之多，反映出这一时期的织绣技术也达到了相当高的水平。

丝织工艺技术的发展主要体现在丝织品纹样上的演变，主要从纱、绫、罗、绮、锦等几种代表织物中表现出来，其中尤其以锦最为华丽和突出。

战国的织锦纹样多以矩形、菱形等几何纹为主，龙凤、麒麟、人物线条贯穿其中，颜色以棕、灰绿、朱红为主，缤纷华丽，生动反映了楚文化的神奇浪漫，具有浓厚的生活气息。

而汉代的织锦纹样是以花卉、飞禽走兽为主题，配以几何纹、水波纹等。

隋唐：品种丰富用途广泛隋唐时期是蚕桑生产技术全面发展的阶段，除了单项技术有许多发明创造之外，还形成了以整套养蚕的高产、稳产技术。

在政治、经济中心南移后，又形成了一套适合南方自然条件的栽桑养蚕技术。

同时，由于提花机的完善，以及唐代大提花机的出现，图案自由循环和大幅织物已经可以实现了。

唐代官营丝绸生产达到了极盛。

长安城内常设了布、绢、纱、绫等织造作坊，青、绛、黄、白、皂、紫的炼染作坊。

织造规模空前庞大，是古代官营丝绸作坊中最为完善的体系。

唐代是织绣染品种最为丰富的一个朝代，其中尤以丝织品最为突出，这之中又以织锦最为绚烂，除了蜀锦之外，还有各种以用途、色彩和织物特点来命名的各种织锦，还不时有创新品种出现。

刺绣品在生活中的应用也更加广泛。

由于唐代进入佛教发展的鼎盛时期，绣品用于佛教供养品较前代更为广泛和丰富。

麻纺织技术和工具愈发完善，纺织生产能力增强。

江南苎麻布生产急剧增长，而葛麻藤由于生长慢，加工困难，逐渐被麻类代替。

两宋：纺织品尽显奢华本质两宋时期，是我国汉族与少数民族文化大融合的时期，织绣的品种不仅更加丰富，织法也有很多创新。

宋锦开始兴起，并成为当时纺织的主流，因为产地在苏州，又称为“苏州宋锦”。

宋锦有40多个品种，其中重锦是最贵重的宋锦品种，多用于宫廷、殿堂里的各种陈设品以及巨幅挂轴等，而且，当时的宋锦主要用来满足宫廷服装和书画装帧的需要。

此时的绫也广泛被用于官服、书画装裱、官诰以及度牒上，宋代的刺绣开始有了向艺术品过渡的趋势，这时还逐步形成了刺绣准则，出现了模仿书画的绣品，政府也曾设书院、召集绣工，制作人物花鸟，山水楼阁等，涌现出一批能工巧匠。

与此同时，过去依附于纺织业的染色业与衣、帽、鞋等制作也成为了独立的专门化的手工业部门，裁缝这个专门职业出现了。

明清：棉纺织业的崛起朱元璋时期棉花种植遍布南北，逐渐取代了丝绸和麻布，成为中国第一大纺织原料。

植棉业和棉织的兴起对蚕桑、丝织业发展产生了一定影响，丝织产品向高档发展。

宋锦逐渐形成了自己独特的风格和地方特色，而南京的云锦织造在明清时期盛极一时。

明代的绣工已经可以将人物故事题材刺绣于服装之上，先后产生了苏绣、粤绣、湘绣和蜀绣四大名绣。

清代麻织工艺出现了交织技术，麻和丝的交织品轻盈柔软，麻和棉的交织布坚固耐用。

19世纪张之洞从德国引进脱胶、纺纱、机织工艺的整套纺织设备，于1898年建立武昌制麻局，从此，中国纺织工业开始走进机器生产时代。

Xia Shang Zhou: the fabric is endowed with a symbol of identity and status.The textile material in summer and Shang period is mainly based on silk and flax. Shang and Zhou dynasties, textiles gradually began to is endowed with the identity and status of social significance, highlighting the strict hierarchy, crown clothing system began to establish, laid the status of supremacy of the silk in the history of Chinese textile. From the Xia Dynasty textile has become trade items, textile production is developed in the center of town, has formed a production of textile industry professional clan. Wire (wire wound) into the standard of the circulation of goods. Silk trade has reached a considerable level.The silk fabric varieties increased, silk, embroidery, printing group, Luo, painting and other kinds of fabrics have unearthed records. Shang and Zhou dynasties, in some large tombs of the nobles also unearthed for number of jade silkworm in kind, also confirmed at the time of the silk industry began to be people of faith and the primitive religion.The Western Zhou Dynasty, simple textile machinery with traditional performance, such as car, spinning, reeling loom has appeared. There is also a special fabric of warp knitting machine. In addition, the period of dyeing technology continues to improve, "green, yellow, red, white, black," five main color has appeared and with different colors of silk clothing to distinguish status.The Qin and Han Dynasties: shape changing patternsDuring this period, gradually formed the lower reaches of the Yellow River River, Sichuan Yangtze River and in the three large textile industry center. Which is the most important in the Yellow River basin. The government set up a special designed for royal occasions production Jin, embroidery, Wan, Yee and high-grade fabric institutions - royal palace imperial fabric chamber. While the lower reaches of the Yellow River has become the land of Qilu silk embroidery manufacturing.Since the Warring States period, Sichuan to Chengdu, silk weaving industry has begun to take shape. Mainly to the famous brocade. Brocade weaving has a unique whole process. In the long process of development formed a unique style, variety and color patterns.Since the Qin Dynasty, the fine degree of linen began to rise to express. Zhou Dai linen and silk technology be roughly the same. Since the Qin and Han Dynasties, large linen and ramie cloth are generally people's daily clothing.Warring States to Han Dynasty silk fabrics mainly distributed in at the time of the Chu, Hubei and Hunan provinces, kinds of embroidery reached dozens, reflect this period of embroidery technology also reached a very high level. Silk technology development is mainly reflected in silk pattern evolution of, mainly from the yarn, silk damask, Romania, Qi, Jin and other representatives of several fabric material demonstrated, especially in Jin most gorgeous and prominent. Brocade patterns of the Warring States to rectangle and rhombus geometric pattern, dragon and Phoenix, unicorn, the character line which runs through, color is given priority to with brown, gray green, vermilion, colorful gorgeous, vividly reflect the Chu culture of the miraculous and romantic, with a strong flavor of life. The Han Dynasty is brocade patterns with flowers, birds and animals as the theme, with geometric patterns, water ripples etc..Sui and Tang Dynasties: the rich variety of widely usedDuring the Sui and Tang Dynasties is a stage of all-round development of sericulture production technology, in addition to a single technology many inventions, but also the formation of the sericulture set of high yield, stable production technology. In the south the center of politics, economy, and formed a set of natural conditions suitable for Southern sericulture technology. Atthe same time, due to the perfection of the jacquard machine, as well as the emergence of the Tang Dynasty jacquard machine, the pattern of free circulation and large fabric can be achieved.The Tang Dynasty Guan Ying silk production reached its apogee. Changan City, silk yarn, permanent cloth, silk weaving workshop, such as green, red, yellow, white, purple soap, dyeing mill. Weaving scale unprecedented, is the most perfect system of ancient official business silk mill. Tang Dynasty is the embroidery dyed the most species rich of a dynasty, especially in the silk of the most prominent, this and its brocade most gorgeous, in addition to the brocade outside, there are a variety of purposes, color and fabric characteristics of naming brocade, from time to time variety innovation. Embroidery products in the life of the application is also more extensive. Because of the development of Buddhism in Tang Dynasty entered the peak period, embroidery for Buddhist supplies over the previous generation is more extensive and rich. Linen textile technology and tools are increasingly perfect, the textile production capacity enhancement. The rapid growth of ramie production, and Gregory Asato due to slow growth, difficult processing, gradually being replaced hemp.Two Song: the essence of the filling of the textileThe Song Dynasty is period of the Han and minority cultural fusion, embroidery of the species not only more abundant, weave a lot of innovation. Some began to rise, and become the mainstream of the textile at that time, because the origin in Suzhou, also known as the "Suzhou song brocade". Song brocade has more than 40 varieties, including heavy brocade is most precious varieties of Songjin, used for palace, the palace of furnishings and huge scroll, and at the time of song brocade is mainly used to meet the needs of court dress and painting and calligraphy mounting and design. At this time of Aya also widely used in robes, painting and calligraphy mounting, officer tomorrow and Dudie on, Song Dynasty embroidery began to have to the art transition trend, then also gradually formed a criterion of embroidery, embroidery imitation of calligraphy and painting, government has set up a college, called embroidery, figure, flower production, landscape pavilion and so on, the emergence of a a group of craftsmen. At the same time, in the past dependent on the textile industry and clothing, hats, shoes and other production has become an independent specialized industrial sector, the tailor this special professional.。