服装设计与高科技外文翻译文献
服装设计创意外文翻译文献
服装设计创意外文翻译文献AbstractThe purpose of this research is to XXX in the process of clothing design。
It aims to analyze the XXX and the design process。
how to collect sources of n。
and XXX.Research methods: Currently。
many scholars have conducted empirical research on ready-to-wear clothing design。
field ns。
semi-structured interviews。
and constrained and semi-driven design tasks。
This empirical research method can be XXX insufficient。
XXX industry is needed。
such as the n industry。
not just empirical research on individual people or companies。
but as many cases as possible should be studied.Research results: XXX n for each source。
Recognize that these sources of n can help designers XXX。
XXX stage of the design process and in the early XXX.XXX: XXX.Keywords: XXX。
clothing。
creative thinking。
design arrangement。
design managementXXX design that includes visual and tactile senses。
服装设计中英文对照外文翻译文献
服装设计中英文对照外文翻译文献(文档含英文原文和中文翻译)College men’s fashionA brief review of the literature on the social psychology of clothing reveals that young women are more frequently research participants than men . This may be because women far outnumber men in majoring in clothing design and apparel merchandising and thus are more easily accessible as research participants than men. Regardless of why clothing research includes more women as research participants, this focus on women has resulted in a dearth of research on young men. In support of this, Reilly and Rudd (2007) report that research has investigated men’s clothing preferences and habits to a lesser extent than women’s. men’s ideas about fashion and its importance in their lives have been overlooked. Despite the limited research on young men, consumer groups comprisedof college men are important to commercial marketers in terms of expenditure in men’s apparel and accessories. According to Statista, in 2012 the expenditure on men’s clothing goods in the United States was $22.2 billion. Men purchased footwear the most, followed by shirts and suits. Prior research has also shown that men’s interest in fashion is on the rise, leading to an increase in men’s apparel sales .Historically, women have been much more conscious about their appearance than men, but in recent times there appears to have been a change in this level of focus on appearance among men. Specifically, young men in Generation Y who have been socialized by mass media and marketing activities have become appearance conscious, which leads to apparel consumption (Kacen 2000; Patterson and Elliot 2002). Young men usually use dress to communicate their identities (Shete 2012), and their aspirations toward communicating this may influence their apparel consumption (Kang et al. 2011). Understanding the relationship between college-aged men’s identities and their clothing choices provides apparel marketers with useful information to develop effective strategies to produce and market clothes in accordance with the common values with which this group strives to identify.According to Hogg and Banister (2001), individuals can either have a positive reference point (i.e., desired end state) or a negative reference point (i.e., undesired end state) that they use to achieve their desiredidentities. So far, much research has been conducted on the positive aspects of consumers’ consumption choice. A lack of research into the negative aspects of consumption choice motivated us to question their impact on consumer behavior. Consumers’ avoidance behavior allows them to create further distance between themselves and their undesired identities (Hogg and Banister 2001), staying within the threshold of their desired identities. Thus, this research focuses on the clothing and style that college men avoid. An exploratory study was conducted on men attending a major midwestern university. On the basis of the results of the exploratory study, research interview questions for any further studies will be modified to address the research problem appropriately.The purpose of the exploratory study was to investigate what clothing college men prefer, what identities they achieve through their clothing, and what they want to avoid in their clothing choices. Our research questions were as follows: (1) Does college-aged men’s clothing reflect their identities and what do they want to express through their clothing choices? and (2) What undesired identities (related to aspects of an avoided self) do college-aged men avoid in their clothing choices? Literature reviewSocial identity theorySocial identity theory as conceptualized by Tajfel and Turner (1979) refers to perceived identity of the groups to which people belong(Tajfel 1982). Social identity theory posits that a person’s self-concept is based on his or her group membership. This theory consists of two dimensions: social identity and personal identity (Howard 2000;Tajfel 1982). Social identity reflects membership in various social groups (e.g., clubs, social class), and personal identity represents the unique attributes that differentiate one person from another (Howard 2000; Tajfel 1982). In complex social environments, young people can use their identification with in-groups (i.e., their own group) versus out-groups (i.e., other groups) (Ogilvie 1987) to align their appearance (i.e., the total and composite image created by clothing) with a desired social group and to differentiate themselves from the undesired, or avoidance, reference group (Banister and Hogg 2004). Thus, social identities provide status to young men and enhance their self-esteem.Research has used social identity theory to investigate the effects of men’s identities on the use of dress (i.e., all material objects added to body). For example, Kang et al. (2011) used social identity theory as a theoretical framework to investigate the relationship between young professional men’s perceptions of work identity and their use of dress. They found that the young men who felt incomplete in their work identity used dress as a symbol to construct their identities. Thus, in this study, we used social identity theory as a theoretical foundation to examine the relationship between college men’s identities and their clothing choices.Men’s identities with fashionAccording to Kratz and Reimer (1998), fashion is filled with meanings and symbols, through which people can visually communicate with one another in a rapid and direct manner. Fashion enables people to express their views about themselves and their identities through the use of clothing; it allows them to visually communicate who they are, who they want to be, what type of social group they want to belong to, and whom they do not want to be associated with the most (Shete 2012). Furthermore, Bennett (2005) states that fashion is one of the channels through which people can most readily give voice to their identities. Beyond words, people can convey themselves through dress and fashion, thus creating their social identity. Fashion’s essential role in providing people with means to build, shape, and communicate their identities is especially prominent in larger metropolitan cities where they “mingle with crowds of strangers and have only fleeting moments to impress them” (Bennett 2005, p 96).Men identify themselves through various ways. For example, some men may identify themselves through their body appearance, while others may show their identities by the way they dress; Hathcote and Kim (2008) note that men represent themselves through how they dress. Moreover, many men care about what they wear and how they wear it on a daily basis and also care about how others perceive them. As part of campussociety, college students also spend time on how they dress. Some male students prefer wearing sweatpants or baggy basketball shorts at school, while others prefer wearing polo shirts and casual pants. The way male college students choose their outfits for school represents their different personalities and identities. For example, some male students wear athletic clothing to show off their masculinity. This is consistent with Lunceford (2010, p. 66), who argues that “male students choose a specific article of clothing because of how it makes them feel or because it downplays what they consider to be unattractive aspects of their bodies while accentuating their best features.”Researchers have conducted studies related to the importance of clothing and fashion for identity creation and communication. For example, Piacentini and Mailer (2004) found that young people in the United Kingdom tended to use clothing to show similarity between themselves and the groups they wished to be identified with, and as a channel to establish potential friendships. Schofield and Schmidt (2005) examined the importance of clothes used in constructing and communicating gay men’s personal a nd group identities with a sample of Manchester-based respondents. They shaped individual gay identity through different levels (i.e., community level, neo-tribal level, and situational level) and found that gay identity emerged through clothing choices. In their study, gay identity is shared on a gay community level toexpress “gayness” to others; on a neo-tribal level to show “belonging” to a social gay cohort with shared experience and emotions; and on a situational level to make themselves blend in with wherever they are (Schofield and Schmidt 2005).As mentioned previously, young people in complex social environments can use their identification with in-groups versusout-groups (Ogilvie 1987) to align their appearance with a desired social group, and to differentiate themselves from the undesired, or avoidance, reference group (Banister and Hogg 2004). In their study of a sample of British consumers, Banister and Hogg (2004) found that many consumers wore safe clothing items (e.g., simple clothes, which would be interpreted positively) to avoid censure rather than risky items. If such fears of folly and negative attention are present in male consumers, certain commonalities among them can be identified. Eisler and Skidmore (1987) proposed that men’s gender-role expectations contributed to fears about lack of athleticism, emotional intimacy, intimacy with other men (or homophobia), and failure. If the feminine, unathletic, impotent man is representative of perceived undesirability among men, symbolic identifiers of those traits can be indicative of young men’s labeling of avoidance reference groups and the “avoided self.” Thus, men’s fashion conservatism (i.e., dressing in a masculine way according to social norms) could be partially attributed to the generalized fear of appearing“feminine” (Kimmel 1994).Aversion to alternative stylesThe aversion to alternative styles was accompanied by several rationales. One respondent said he avoided skinny jeans (often associated with “skater” and “emo” culture) simply “for comfort.” Another respondent avoided dark and alternative styles to “avoid negative stigmas” and possible associations with low intelli gence related to group think. However, the majority of the respondents who said they avoid alternative styles were unable to explain their aversion. Mentions of dislike of alternative clothing were often supplied first and with little hesitation, suggesting that this is a somewhat automatic and marked dislike for those respondents.One respondent said he avoids wearing black and looking gothic because his friends do not wear those styles, suggesting a fear of ostracism when wearing alternative clothing. In a similar vein, one respondent included that he “doesn’t want to lead people to believe he is dark.” A 23-year-old Caucasian respondent, when asked if he avoided any styles of clothing, said: “Gothic stuff for sure, dark clothing or Hot Topic stuff. I don’t want to be associated with them and I hate the people that wear that stuff, like spiked belts.” This type of sentiment occurred almost exclusively among Caucasian respondents from middle- andupper-middle-class backgrounds. The fear of social scrutiny andostracism, along with a general stigma regarding alternative andcounter-culture, appears to be the most common motivation for avoiding alternative styles.Aversion to gangster stylesGangster styles were mentioned often, and responses often indicated social and racial prejudices, in addition to the fear of social judgment. Many respondents associated “big” and “baggy” clothing with gangster style. Race emerged as a definite component of this aversion. All but one of the respondents who listed gangster style as an avoided style identified as Caucasian. One respondent directly indicted his aversion to wearing clothes “a black person would wear,” suggesting that affiliation with the African American culture would be undesirable. Other variants included an av ersion to “swag gear” and “thug style.” Another respondent even used a variant of a racial slur to express his avoidance ofgangster-inflected styles. The respondents supplied little additional justification for avoiding this style, and when asked to expound on their preference, three claimed that they were unable to provide further information.Aversion to gay stylesThree respondents expressed avoiding clothing that could be regarded as “gay.” The wearing of skinny jeans, jean shorts, V-neck shirts, or cardigans was perceived as indicative of homosexuality, according tothe interview data. The inclusion of these items of clothing specifically indicates an association of form-fitting clothing and low necklines with effeminacy and gay culture. Respondents expressed a desire to represent themselves accurately, and those who claimed to avoid gay-inflected clothing suggested that it was undesirable on the grounds that (1) they disliked gay culture, (2) they wanted to express their heterosexuality, and (3) they wanted to avoid speculation from others that they were homosexual. In this regard, homophobic sentiments, a desire for accurate self-representation, and a fear of social judgment all seemed to be components of these respondents’ desire to avoid clothing per ceived as being worn by gay men. Another respondent said that he refused to wear any clothing from the “women’s section,” and though this does not necessary relate to the avoidance of gay style, it does represent anoften-related fear of gender-role deviation. Thus, an avoided self and avoidance behavior were important factors in clothing choice, supporting earlier findings from Hogg and Banister’s (2001) study in which dislikes and distastes of college men were associated with negative symbolic consumption. This sentiment is demonstrated by another respondent’s notion that said, “you know that there are certain things that you don’t want to buy because you don’t want to project yourself in a negative way.” They proposed that a greater understanding of the impact of negative symbolic consumption on consumers product rejection couldhelp the development of companies marketing communication strategies.Cultural background and the avoided selfDemographics indicated different trends in responses among respondents. The four Chinese men who participated were largely unable to produce responses regarding avoided clothing and styles. One of these respondents said he only avoids clothing that is “too colorful or fashionable” because “it is not his style.” Another said he only avoids “hip-hop clothing” because it does not match his serious personality. The other two respondents said that there were no types of clothing or styles they avoided. These sentiments contrast greatly with the responses from American students, all but one of whom listed one or several types of avoided clothing and styles.Furthermore, the brief elaborations the Chinese students supplied regarding the reason they avoid clothing related to issues of personal identity, with no mention of social or cultural motivations for doing so. This indicates that the avoidance of styles due to fears of social castigation and negative group associations could hold as a phenomenon more prevalent in the United States than in China.The college-aged men in this study expressed a desire for clothing that is comfortable, gives them confidence, and meets the expectations of their surroundings. These men recognized that their clothing was onerepresentation of their identities. Thus, the results suggest that college men are driven largely by a desire for comfort and to meet normative expectations. These findings are supported by the supposition that “men dress for fit and comfort rather than for style”, made by Craik (1994) and confirmed by Bakewell et al. (2006). These attributes for college men’s clothing choice seem to be quite different from those for young women, who largely make their choices based on brand (fit, look, and style) (Taylor and Cosenza 2002). The driving force for college men’s clothing choice is seemingly functional rather than decorative (Kacen 2000), even if they have become more appearance-conscious. Overall, the positive connection between young men’s individual identities and their clothing choices parallels previous research on the relationship between young professional men’s perceptions of work identity and their dress choices (Kang et al. 2011), and on the link between young peopl e’s clothing choices and the identity of the groups to which they belong (Piacentini and Mailer 2004).A minority of respondents avoided certain types of clothing because they felt it was incongruent with their styles. Their aversion to clothing that appears to belong to alternative, gangster, or gay styles suggests that these men strived to avoid clothing that implied identities viewed as non-conformist, non-professional, and unusual. These men indicated that their clothing choices were perhaps motivated by a desire to fit in withothers. Their aversion to clothing styles that communicated incongruent identities implies that deviations from cultural, class, race, andgender-related norms were undesirable.翻译：大学男装时尚简要回顾服装社会心理学的文献显示,年轻女性比男性更多的成为研究参与者。
服装设计褶皱外文文献翻译最新译文
服装设计褶皱外文文献翻译最新译文The objective of this study is to develop a quantitative method for evaluating the pleat effect on clothing。
as opposed to relying solely on subjective ns。
By analyzing image technology principles。
an image n system was designed to capture images of clothing。
These images were then processed using specialized are to analyze the drape of the clothing。
The study focused specifically on the pleats in the sleeve n of the garment。
analyzing the gray scale curve of the sleeve image and the corresponding nship een the gamma curve and the pleat。
The aim of this research is to provide a more objective n index for garment structural design and pleating effects.Clothing structure design involves a series of processes thatare used to render clothing through cutting。
fabric pleating。
and joining together。
The goal is to accurately capture the desired design effect by determining the structure's plane state through the use of design renderings。
服装设计外文翻译--绣纺织品设计(节选)
2000汉字，1000单词，5000英文字符出处：Miller M. Embroidered textile design[J]. Textile Design, 2011:129–145. 原文Embroidered textile designM. MILLER1IntroductionEmbroidery design is inextricably linked to the specific method of production, so this chapter provides an overview of the processes currently used for embroidery production. It provides an account of the recent changes in technology that have radically altered the use of embroidery, and includes sections outlining the key areas embroidery is used in. Finally there is a section suggesting likely future trends in embroidery.Embroidery has always been a key feature of both household textiles and clothing, in recent years embroidered decoration has become even more predominant. This is for two reasons: the advances in embroidery technology have made it much cheaper and easier to produce embroidery, also increased globalisation and the easy access to cheap labour means hand-stitched embellishment is now created for mass-market clothing as well as for the more expensive end of the market. There is a third reason that has led to a huge increase in the amount of embroidery on clothing, and that is to do with the huge growth in branded goods over the last twenty years or so.The commercial mass-production of embroidery is a surprisingly complex area. Embroidery is not a discrete process. It encompasses all types of stitched decoration, from all-overs on household textiles, to placement logos on caps and sweatshirts, to complex designs combined with print and sequin embellishment.1.1Definition of embroideryThe word embroidery has many meanings and connotations, in this chapter it is used to denote commercial embroidery, i.e. that done on or applied to garments or house- hold textiles for retail sale, as opposed to embroidery done for commission, as one-off pieces. The types of commercial embroidery covered in this chapter can be defined by method of production, i.e. tambour, Irish machine, Comely machine, schiffli machine, multi-head machine. (These different production processes are describedbelow.)1.2Types of embroideryEmbroidery can be created in many different ways; it can also be used in many different ways. The schiffli machines can create metres and metres of all-overs that can be used for household textiles or fabrics for clothing. These machines can also used be used for the creation of badges that are then attached to clothing when large quantities are required. They are also used to create embroidered trimmings.Multi-head machines are mostly used for placement embroidery, most commonly logos and branding; however, they are also used extensively for feature embroidery on all manner of clothing and household textiles, especially towels.2Commercial production methods for embroidered textilesCommercial production methods can be broadly divided into two, those that essentially consist of one person working on one piece of embroidery at a time, where the labour required is intensive and skilled: hand embroidery, tambour, Irish machine, Comely machine; and those that result in the production of more than one piece of embroidery at a time: schiffli machine, multi-head machine.3Digitising embroidery designsAlthough schiffli and multi-head machines operate in different ways, the compute-riseddigitising systems for inputting design information are very similar. The terms…punching‟ and …digitising‟ refer to the same process - the process of converting a design into a machine-readable format. This can be direct to machine, or stored on a disc. The term …punching‟ originated f rom when holes were manually punched into a paper or cardboard roll. Until the 1990s computerised systems were also commonly referred to as …punching‟ systems and the term …punching‟ remains in use in some sectors of the embroidery industry.4Pattern control in embroidered textile designsAll machine embroidery is carried out by the movement of a piece of fabric beneath, or perpendicular to a needle or set of needles.Embroidery done on these machines requires a considerable amount of skill by theoperator. The movement of the fabric to create the design is controlled freehand by the machine operator. There is sometimes an implication that embroidery created by machine is in some way inferior to that created by hand, as if less skill is involved. In fact the creation of embroidery on the Irish and Comely machines is very skilled.5Applications of commercial embroidery productionAlthough a certain amount of information about what is produced by the different methods has been provided in the above sections on production methods, it is useful at this point to reiterate some of the applications of commercial embroidery focusing primarily on the schiffli and multi-head industries.A wide range of different types of threads and fabrics can be stitched on all these types of embroidery machines. The threads used can range from thick wools to fine silks, the fabrics stitched can range from sheer chiffons to thick plastic, for certain fabrics special backings or toppings may have to be used.5.1Household textilesThis includes, but is not limited to, towels, tablecloths, napkins, bed and table linen, and curtains. The use of embroidery on household textiles has become common-place; once it was limited to only high-end textiles, and mostly stitched on the schiffli machines; however, with the lessening production costs cheaper ranges of household textiles also use embroidery.5.2ClothingAlthough in theory the application of embroidery to clothing is limitless, it tends to be used extensively in the following areas: childrenswear; womenswear, lingerie, sportswear, corporate clothing/workwear.Children swearSince the 1990s embroidery has been used extensively by manufacturers of children‟s clothing, at all market levels, from the low end, such as Primark, to upmarket brands such as Burberry. Stores such as Marks and Spencer use multi-head embroidery on a very large proportion of their children swear. The signature look of both Oilily, and Monsoon is highly embellished, decorative clothing. Both these brands use a range oftextile techniques to achieve this look, embroidery is a significant part of this.Women swearWhilst many clothing ranges include elements of embroidery occasionally, there are a small number of companies for whom embroidery is a key part of their identity. Monsoon and Whistles are both upmarket companies whose garments often utilize different types of embroidery.LingerieWomen‟s underwear has featured embroidery since before embroidery was automated. The schiffli embroidery manufacturers, such as Bischoff in St Gallen, Switzerland () have developed incredibly sophisticated ways of stitching onto complex stretch fabric bases.译文绣纺织品设计作者：米列尔1引言服装刺绣设计的具体方法与生产过程是紧密联系在一起的，所以本文对目前用于刺绣的生产工艺作了一个概述，并阐述了最近这方面的技术变化，这些技术进步己经从根本上改变了刺绣工艺及其在服装设计和制作中的使用，最后是概述了刺绣使用中的几个关键部分，并表明了刺绣的未来发展趋势。
服装设计外文翻译文献
服装设计外文翻译文献(文档含中英文对照即英文原文和中文翻译)原文:Trend predictionTrend prediction information is much broader than ‘fashion prediction’ in that it may not be specifically related to fashion. Trends are recorded and trend predictors (looking for patterns of human behaviour, indicating changing markets or new consumer needs) constantly monitor the media and society.Many industries use trend prediction to forecast relevant changes and plan product development, for example the interest in all things spiritual was forecast by Faith Popcorn, initially in the ‘Popcorn Report’ and was developed and continued in ‘Clicking’.Spirituality is seen in the interest of such things as ‘Feng Shui’which is a popular approach to interior design. Bookstores now have shelves dedicated to spirituality, as individuals look inwards to discover themselves in a fast-moving world.The fashion prediction consultancy relies on experts in a variety of fields for its structure. They have personnel all over the world to help in gathering intelligence.The full-time staffing of a consultancy generally consists of the editor who creates the company philosophy. The publisher, on the technical side, puts the information together. The retailing and merchandising professionals and fashion directors work on consultancy for individual clients, by applying the general fashion trends more specifically to their needs. They must be skilled in, and aware of, a variety of markets. This could, for example, involve developing exclusive collection strategies, concepts and designs for spinners, weavers, textile printers, men’s, women’s and children’s garments, shoe and accessory manufacturers and for retailer’s private labels. They may also be expected to sell subscriptions to the publications to new clients.The objective is to work closely with the client to determine their concerns, goals and potential customers with a view to tailor-making a design solution.The success of prediction companies relies on pinpointing trends and developing these for individual markets at the right time! Trends may be affected by social, cultural, political and economic moods, as well as evolutions in lifestyle, technological developments, media and retailing. This information is tapped and recorded by international correspondents who provide up-to-date intelligence fromfashion capitals, such as London, Paris, Milan, New York, Florence and Tokyo.The design team determines how this intelligence affects fashion and consumer awareness.Designers/Illustrators are employed with design skills in menswear, womenswear and childrenswear, and illustration skills in interpreting and developing silhouette themes, knit and woven samples, print stories and accessories. They visualise new ideas developed from the trend information and consider carefully figure proportions and stylization so that any personnel, using the service, can understand what is suggested by the visual.International agents promote and sell the service to clients worldwide, for example in Los Angeles, Tokyo, London and Paris.ColourColour is the first consideration of season and is produced for autumn/winter and spring/summer ranges.The colour is put into dye 18 months ahead of the specified season (some clients may require this information up to 2 years earlier, but this may not be shown in the final presentation box).Fibre and fabric manufacturers require advanced information regarding colour as they have to develop their product early enough for designers and garment manufacturers to buy it and in turn develop their product. Presentation packs are usually presented with a fixed range of colour and a removable range so that clients can develop their own colour combinations. Colour packages are included in the subscription price and may be sold separately to clients who only require colour information and not the rest of the service.The follows the setting of the mood for a new season by developing fabric and silhouette themes. Prediction consultancies produce a variety of materials and publications for their clients.Directional themes and full-figure silhouette illustrations of menswear, womenswear and childrenswear together with accessories are shown. Included in the publication may be exclusive handlooms for wovens, knits and prints produced by freelance and in-house designers.Commercial fabrics may be published at this time, derived from fabric fairs such as, Premiere Vision, Interstoff and Prato. These are created from hand cut and stuck swatches of directional fabrics relating to the season’s previously predicted themes.The fashion prediction design processOne publication is worked in at a time (there may be 12-one a month, or more, depending upon the size of the consultancy and its breadth of expertise).A company that develops its own thematic material will hold a succession of meetings with the core team resulting in decisions being made regarding the amount and content of the themes for a particular season, including evocative names. This is achieved by discussion. Each individual states what they fell will be a strong trend in the coming season. Where one idea is repeated by several members it is incorporated into the plan for the book. Where similar ideas are mentioned they are amalgamated to form a strong and identifiable trend.A colour palette is decided upon. The colours are divided into groups corresponding with the themes. Some colours unavoidably overlap, but as main and accent colours alter the overall impression, each theme is sufficiently different.The designers then start designing. The walls are covered with tear sheets from magazines, separated into appropriate themes as inspiration. Photographs from the trade fairs are used for guidance on design details.Fabrics are then discussed in conjunction with the designers designing the garments. It is important to consider the balance of outerwear and separates fabrics. When decided, lengths of fabric and any interesting accessories are ordered to provide swatches for the books.After the designs are completed they are illustrated with reference to particular markets and ‘lifestyle s’ and to capture the ‘essence of the themes’. Technical drawings are also produced, either by the design team or by freelance illustrators.Samples of knitwear and new textiles may be commissioned which will be photographed for the books.Mood boards, containing visuals, fabric and trim, depicting the themes, are completed. The mood boards are sent away to be photographed and return as transparencies.During the process of compilation, agents worldwide will have seen securing old and new clients, to whom the books will be sent on completion. a master copy of the book is compiled and sent to the printers to have a sample copy printed and bound. The copy is checked for any mistakes before the book goes into production.Travel is an important aspect of fashion research and visiting trade fairs allows reports to be compiled which observe not only trends apparent from the exhibitors’displays, but also from the people (who are mainly from the fashion industry) as they walk around the shows. This exercise helps to understand the differences in international fashion, which is important when catering for foreign clients.Theme developmentFashion prediction for a new season is usually promoted as a series of ‘themes’. These are designed to inspire and direct the designer for a number of markets. Themes, often, are given names to evoke feelings and moods and reflect the content of the theme. Each theme may appeal to one or more markets and requires interpretation from the designer to develop for their particular market. Often the prediction company offers some consultation to the designer which is helpful in this development.Markets are usually defined by cost of the merchandise. Nowadays the markets referred to have vague names such as boutique, fashion aware, better end, pm dressing. This is more reflective of changes in ‘lifestyle’.These can be interpreted into customers buying from:Lower market –budget; lower middle –high street, chain stores; middle –independent labels and department stores; upper middle – designer diffusion; upper –designer.Fashion prediction themes have often been very literal in their nature: nautical would show striped sweaters and sailor hats; utility always involve dungarees of some description and multiple pockets. A chic, tailored look may well involve a French beret.It is important that visual codes are identifiable and mean similar things to different people. The illustration must work hard to convey a mood, an attitude, in the pose, that convinces the viewer about the sort of person that is being targeted.Similarly, a total look is always helpful because accessories can contribute to not only the communication of the theme, but may also convey the type of person who would wear the ‘look’.It is important that the proportion is believable and that the information is clear. Themes nowadays are less literal and are more about mixing ideas together to create something fresher. ‘Lifestyle’ has become important, consequently themes may not be put into an evocative setting which helps to create the correct mood. Less clothing detail is on view but the message allows the designer to make their own interpretations.New uses of technology have resulted in the development of the Worth GlobalStyle Network (WGSN) who produce a comprehensive on-line service to fashion industry. Members pay an annual subscription to view the full site; students may visit an educational version free of charge (for a limited period). The services available are: news updates daily; women’s, men’s, youth and children’s trends; city reports from London, Paris, Milan, New York and Tokyo plus seasonal reports from new and trendsetting areas; international trade fair calendar; lifestyle reports - consumer attitudes, evolving buying patterns, seasonal phasing; catwalk shows and trade event reports; graphics libraries; resource listings; licensing reports – brands, films, sports events; mailbox problems and solutions; technical and production news – garment and fabric technology, dyeing and finishing, print techniques, footwear and leathergoods technology.译文:流行趋势预测流行趋势预测信息所包含的内容要比时装预测丰富得多，原因是其不一定与时装有关。
服饰设计外文翻译文献
服饰设计外文翻译文献本文旨在介绍关于服饰设计的外文翻译文献，下面列举了几篇相关的文献供参考。
文献一标题： "The Influence of Culture on Fashion Design" "The Influence of Culture on Fashion Design"作者： John Smith John Smith摘要：本文探讨了文化对时装设计的影响。
研究表明，各个文化背景的差异对时装设计有着重要的影响。
通过分析不同文化背景下的时尚元素和审美观念，本研究提出了在跨文化时装设计中应考虑的因素。
本文探讨了文化对时装设计的影响。
研究表明，各个文化背景的差异对时装设计有着重要的影响。
通过分析不同文化背景下的时尚元素和审美观念，本研究提出了在跨文化时装设计中应考虑的因素。
文献二标题： "The Role of Sustainability in Fashion Design" "The Role of Sustainability in Fashion Design"作者： Emily Johnson Emily Johnson摘要：本文探讨了可持续性在时尚设计中的重要性。
时尚产业对环境和社会产生了重大影响，因此，越来越多的时尚品牌开始关注可持续性。
本文介绍了一些可持续时尚设计的实践案例，并讨论了如何将可持续性原则融入到时装设计的各个方面。
本文探讨了可持续性在时尚设计中的重要性。
时尚产业对环境和社会产生了重大影响，因此，越来越多的时尚品牌开始关注可持续性。
本文介绍了一些可持续时尚设计的实践案例，并讨论了如何将可持续性原则融入到时装设计的各个方面。
文献三标题： "The Role of Technology in Fashion Design" "The Role of Technology in Fashion Design"作者： Laura Martinez Laura Martinez摘要：本文研究了科技在时尚设计中的作用。
外文文献翻译服装设计
毕设附件外文文献原文及译文文献出处：Rothenberg A, Sobel R S. A Creative Process in the Art of Costu me Design[J]. Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, 2016, 9(1):27‐36.译文服装设计的艺术创作进程阿尔伯特·罗斯伯格;罗伯特·索贝尔关于制造力心理学的实证研究已经进行了 20 连年的时刻，目前已经确信了一个特定的制造性的操作进程，称为“人性化的制造进程”。
那个进程已被证明，对各类类型的艺术与科学领域的制造性活动都有一个重要的作用。
正如它的概念所言，这一人性化的制造进程需要通过踊跃地构思和艺术性的两种因素的结合，一起作用，只有如此，才能造就一个富含人性的艺术品。
增进服装的人性化设计思维，需要用到一种技术方式，这种方式涉及利用到将人性化因素的考虑及艺术性的构思结合在一路，依如实证研究，说明利用这种可行性技术，能够增进服装设计的人性化艺术创作进程。
了解服装的天然性因素，包括服装设计的艺术创作进程。
但是，科学方式的制造力是困难重重的。
只是艺术家和其他人都对服装设计的艺术创作进程的本质都专门感爱好，都想明白得和阐释这意思本质，有一种观点以为发明家在那个领域的尽力没什么成效的。
这些发明家们也担忧这种情形，但这确实是他们的工作。
另外，发明家们可能都会比较感爱好，确实是将他们的研究功效应用于实际的制造性的尝试。
将研究结果应用于实践，通常会受到很多人的疑心和轻视，因为他们以为，这看起来就像是玩弄制造的进程，他们以为这一进程应该受到强烈钦佩和尊重，而不能有任何随意性。
尽管存在这些困难，可是事实证明，这种富含技术性的制造进程，专门是应用于服装设计中，恰恰会致使有价值的和有趣的结果。
本文关注的是思维制造性进程操作的实证分析，探讨人性化地艺术性思维，这种思维应被用于服装设计领域中。
最新服装设计外文翻译终稿
服装设计外文翻译CoutureSewing Technique Claire B.Shaeffer Printed UnitedStates originallypublished TauntonPress,Inc. Chapter4.Edge Finishes Hems,Facings BindingsUnless finished someway, garmentravel lookincomplete. edges—theneckline; verticalfront edges jackets,coats manyblouses; jackets canbecome distinctive, decorative elements design.Threefinishes usedextensively couture:hems,facings edgefinish depends manythings—the shape edgebeing finished; its position type,design garment;current fashion trends; individualwearer bottomedge asymmetrical,curved, scalloped otherwiseunusually shaped, facing.Even when twodifferent edges requireslightly different finishes tailoredgarment would require very different finishing from eveninggown, even similar designs vorked dissimilarfabrics would dictate finishes suitable eachfabric. Although hems, facings alledge finishes, each has slightlydifferent function. Hems generallyused loweredges garmentsection manyhelp garmenthang attractively addingweight edge.Facings, otherhand, verticaledges garments.Bindings can upper,lower verticaledges, they’reused most often replacefacings rather than hems. Facings can separatesections finishcurvedshapededges. whenused onlyslightly curved, nothingmore than widehem allowance, whichcase they’re called extended facings. Both hems onlyone side—usually garment.Bindings, separatestrips garmentedge finishboth sides garmentattractively. Because materialstakes backseat desiredresults, edges alwaysfinished simplestmethod onemost often used ready-to-wearconstruction homesewing. Whatever finishingmethod, hems, facings bindingscan sewnentirely machinework.. handwork visible finishedproduct, however, handwork used traditionalcouture garment. FACINGS Facings, like hems, garment.Unlike hems, which hang free garment’shang more than its overall shape, faced edges frequently fit body’scurves subtlyaffect garment’ssilhouette. Used garmentopenings, curved edges shapededges like jacket lapels, facings contribute significantly overallimpression well-constructedgarment. threetypes facings:extended, shaped bias.Two biasfacings—are cut separately from sewnfrom self-fabric lightweightlining fabrics. extendedfacing garmentsection like plainhem course,self-fabric. extendedfacing nothingmore than 2-in.hem sewnexactly like plainhem (see pp. 63-64). When garmentedge length-wisegrain, extendedfacing duplicates slightcurve,facingcan’t duplicate mayhave eased,stretched edgesmoothly. extendedfacing usedextensively couturebecause foldededge moresupple than seamededges biasfacings consequentlydrapes better. Edges extendedfacings generallyinterfaced stabilizedso originalshape itsname suggests, shapedfacing ususllyduplicates oftenused edgesintended crisp,constructed look, alwaysused intricatelyshaped edges like scallopedhem. biasfacing stripcut truebias. Because doesn’tduplicate facingmust itself edge.Bias facings madefrom lightweight fabrics producenarrow, inconspicuous facings. cousture,more than one type oftenused singlegarment singleedge. pinkgazar dress shown above, example,has extended facings frontneckline backopening shapedfacings frontneckline backopening shapedfacings backneckline. Similarly, p.60has shapedfacing upperhalf frontedge extendedfacing lowerhalf edge.Before applying any kind facing,examine garment’sfit determinewhether edgeneeds staytape (see pp. 49-50) interfaced(see 68).Once you’ve handled youcan proceed facingyou’ve chosen. SHAPED FACINGS Shaped facings can machine.Both types couture,while only machine applications machineapplication course,faster, sometimesmore difficultfacingso fitssmoothly, sometimesvisible garmentedge. instructionsbelow applyingshaped facings machine,refer yourfavorite sewing manual.) directionsfocus necklinefacings because they’re most frequently used coutureworkrooms. However, directionscan otheredges waistbands,armholes, applied pockets, collars garmentlinings. facingcan madeany time after neckedge stabilizedappropriately design.Facings can cutfrom originalgarment pattern edgewasn’t changed during fittingprocess, garmentitself can serve pattern.When thread-tracedneckline can correspondingstitching line finishedneckline can also guidewhen you’re applying hand.Neck facings can severalshapes. Two mostpopular traditionalcirclular shape, which measures evendistance all around from rectangularshape, which extends armscyeseams. When largershape facingedges can seamlines,holding them smooth facingshadow may also lessobtrusive largershape, depending obviousdisadvantage additionalfabric introduced shoulderarea, which may give bulkyappearance. One solution reducingsome seamlines1/2 originalpositions. alwaysaligned correspondinggarment seamlines, homesewing. lessfamiliar rectangular facing. caneasily circularfacing, Start selectingsome scraps from your garment fabric backfacingsunless whichcase use lighter,firmly woven material facings.Rectangular pieces preferablebecause you’recutting rectangularfacing high,round neckline back,begin onelarge rectangle about 16 frontfacing twosmaller ones about backfacings. When applying garmentedge before making facingso youcan use finished,do so before starting freeedge lieflat. Trim seamallowance around garmentneck wrongside. Baste generous1/5 seamallowance’s tendency curlaround neck,snip shallow cuts rawedge every inch necklineseam allowance lie flat(as shown wrongside up, place necklineover pressingcushion pressjust necklineedge. yourfingers, gently try rawedge. necessary,trim edgefurther firmlywoven fabrics lessstabble fabrics. seamallowance still doesn’t lie flat, clip rawedge short,closely spaced snips up bastingstitches around neckedge. Use loosecatchstitch seamallowance garmenthas neither, sew carefully so stitchesdo rightside garment.Cut eachsection faced.Before proceeding, decide whether relacating shoulderseams bulk.After relacating youdecide doso, begin wrongsides together, grainlinestogether centerfront itsfacing. garmentneckline curved, whenworn, smooth place,pinning yougo. When you get shoulderseams, smooth frontfacing over seamsso seamallowances flat.Pintrimaway shoulderseams neckedgd, leaving 1/2-in. seam allowances shownabove. Pin backfacing(s) shoulderseams,trim rawedges under, shownabove. point,you can machine-stitch shoulderseams. neckline,trim away excess,leaving 1/2-in.seam allowance.Turn under rawedge so garment’sseam allowance. necessary,clip turnunder smoothly shallowcurves, you can turn back neckedge presslightly. Using fellstitch slipstitch,sew neckedge shoulderseams weren’tmachine-stitched. Remove presslightly. BIAS FACINGS biasfacing narrowstrip fabriccut truebias shaped,rather than cut, faces.Well adapted softedges, frequentlyused lightweightsilk cottonfabrics. couturework-rooms, most bias facings hand.Generally, self-fabric sewnfrom light-weight fabric, heavy,lining material can usedinstead. Bias facings lessconspicuous than shaped facings, requireless fabric, they’re both more comfortable wearnext moreeconomical twodisadvantages facings,however. When biasfacing garmentedge rarelyinterfaced biasfacing usuallyslipstitched sometimesdifficult stitchesfrom showing garment.Most bias facings finishedso they’re about 1/2 jewelneckline skirt.Generally, biasfacing, moredifficult curvededge. Before applying biasfacing, finish garmentedge. Fold seamallowance wrongside baste1/8 edge.Clip edgelie flat.wrongside up, press edge.Measure garmentedge biasstrip several inches longer, joinseveral strips lengthyou need. 11/2-in.wide facing, stripshould straightedges 11/2in.wide curvededges. Fold one longedges under 1/4 bestaccomplished onetime foldededge yourhands 1-in.pleats so stayfolded without pressing, which might stretch wrongside up wrongside biasstrip wrongside foldedgarment edge, aligning biasedge basting,1/8 garmentedge. Pin bias,easing stripuntil edgesmoothly, baste.Place edgeover pressingcushion rightside up. Cover presscloth carefullypress just biasstrip. facingshoule lie smoothly against wrongside doesn’t,release tryagain. Using fellstitch, sew seamallowance. Trim biasso even3/4 freeedge, fole under1/4 ing veryfine needle, sew looseslipstitch fellstitch. backed,catch garment.Remove presslightly. When applying biasfacing necklinewithout opening,begin leftshoulder seam worktoward frontneckline(this mostdifficult part thereforetackled first). biasfacing armscye,begin underarm.Finish foldingone end biaswrong sides together lengthwisegrain. Lightly crease yourthumbnail. Fold otherend under so foldededges match. foldstogether. BINDINGS elegantfinish suitable nearlyevery edge,a binding can contrastingfabiric texture,add dashyourgarment. Bindings rightside edge,wrapping underside.Often finished so they’re attractive wrongside garment,bindings。
- 1、下载文档前请自行甄别文档内容的完整性，平台不提供额外的编辑、内容补充、找答案等附加服务。
- 2、"仅部分预览"的文档,不可在线预览部分如存在完整性等问题,可反馈申请退款(可完整预览的文档不适用该条件!)。
- 3、如文档侵犯您的权益，请联系客服反馈,我们会尽快为您处理(人工客服工作时间：9:00-18:30)。
文献信息：文献标题：Evolution of Fashion Design in the Era of High-Tech Culture （高科技文化时代服装设计的演变）国外作者：Galina Mihaleva，C.Koh文献出处：《International Scholarly and Scientific Research and Innovation》,2016,10(7):2447-2451字数统计：英文2079单词，11462字符；中文3549汉字外文文献：Evolution of Fashion Design in the Era of High-Tech CultureAbstract Fashion, like many other design fields, undergoes numerous evolutions throughout the ages. This paper aims to recognize and evaluate the significance of advance technology in fashion design and examine how it changes the role of modern fashion designers by modifying the creation process. It also touches on how modern culture is involved in such developments and how it affects fashion design in terms of conceptualizing and fabrication. By comparing case studies, existing fashion design examples and crafting method experimentations; we then spot patterns in which to predict the direction of future developments in the field. A breakdown on the elements of technology in fashion design helps us understand the driving force behind such a trend. The results from explorations in the paper have shown that there is an observed pattern of a distinct increase in interest and progress in the field of fashion technology, which leads to the birth of hybrid crafting methods. In conclusion, it is shown that as fashion technology continues to evolve, their role in clothing crafting becomes more prominent and grows far beyond the humble sewing machine.Keywords: Fashion design, functional aesthetics, smart textiles, 3D printing. INTRODUCTIONIt is common knowledge that the environment we live in greatly influences the style of clothing that people wear. And, it is not just referring to the physical-geographical or climatic environment but rather the less tangible aspects of the socio-cultural environment which is related to the time period we live in as well as the prevalent culture at the time. As much as clothing is a practical necessity, it is also an expression of identity and a reflection of culture.In the current high-tech culture we live in, there is a trend of using computers, automation, and other technology driven methods to compliment many fields, fashion design is no exception. Designers now immerse themselves in the age of smart textiles and incorporate modern technology with fashion design and production. The used of sensors, conductive fibers and other smart fabric technologies like 3d printing, brings a whole new dimension to fashion design in terms of functionality, expression and interaction. The design focus is also shifted to more active issues of personal identity, social behavior, and intuitive interactions.Fueled by society’s eagerness for efficiency, the fashion industry is on the verge of a revolution. The boom of technological advancements prominently redefines the role of fashion designers, their approaches to design and functionality of fashion. This ultimately transforms the conventional design process.TRENDS AND METHODOLOGIESTraditionally, clothing is a means of fulfilling basic needs such as protection from the elements, comfort, camouflage, and even socially accepted modesty as well as a medium for symbolic, artistic or religious expression.Early concepts and constructs of “smart clothing”was very far from the current ideals of “smart clothing”, attempts to make wearable technology in the 1970s were more inclined towards simply using clothing as a support for electronic attachments and had very little to do with fashion. However, this changed when a different approach was used; resulting in the smart fashion we have now. Aesthetics and function are sometimes thought as independent of each other or even antagonistic, there may be misconception that aesthetics is less important than practicality. What isoften neglected is that these two concepts are interrelated and have a symbiotic relationship. Fashion is linked with design, and design aims to fulfil needs of the consumer whether it is aesthetic or functional. Thus when a designer engages in effective fashion design and undergoes the process of satisfying certain variables, it is fundamentally the same process that sates functionality. Consequently, by working with fashion as the starting point and integrating technology simultaneously while pursuing it as a distinct hybrid topic of wearable technology; it helps in creating a more effective outcome. Thus, with the advent of smart garments and wearable technology, clothing is rapidly transformed into an interactive interface between wearer, garment, and environment. The development of clothing as technological interface is highly influenced by the development of technology as fashion designers are drawn by the expanded possibilities of high-tech wearables.The human body is itself a biological receptor interface, it has been mentioned that clothing and fashion has an intimate relationship with the human body in both physical and social aspects. With smart garments, fashion becomes an additional interface and results in a cyclic interaction between body, clothing and environment. Take for instance the research project Smart Second Skin (2004) by Jenny Tillotson and Adeline Andre which comprises of a scent delivery system that is programmed to respond to the wearer’s emotions and dispenses olfactory stimulus for aromatherapy to alter the wearer’s mood. This is an example of a complex feedback design. Firstly, the wearer’s mood changes, possibly reacting to a conscious or subconscious stimuli in the environment, this emotional response becomes an input that triggers the sensors and produces an output, in this case, it is the dispensed aromatherapy which in turn brings the wearer’s emotions back to a desired state as a feedback. The body, environment and clothing interacts accordingly, this interaction is modulated by what is being programmed into the technology involved.While textile can turn into a technological interface, some designers are soon inspired to look at material fabrication technology itself. The exploration of such possibilities spurred the need for interdisciplinary approaches. Designers become more than artists, they turn into engineers, programmers, chemists, and evenbiologists. Micro’be’ Fermented Fashion is a project where organic fabric is “grown” with the bacteria through the process of bacterial wine fermentation. The cultivated fabric formed from cellulose micro fibrils is biodegradable and can be used to make seamless garments. Its advantages of being environmentally friendly and a lower cost fabric production in the wake of rising petroleum costs for synthetic fabrics only came to be when the artist vision extended across into the biological fields. This can only serve to prove the benefits of hybridizing interdisciplinary methodologies. In addition, there is another implication of cultural influence, high-tech culture is characterized by the drive for efficiency, the need to improve current conditions, and the use of highly scientifically advanced methods (e.g automations, Bio-culture etc.) to achieve these improvements. In recent years, society starts to realize the impact of finite resources, thus leading to a trend of conservation awareness that inspires projects like Micro’be’ Fermented Fashion. The attention to environmental concerns lets life sciences become a popular theme in technology related fashion, where ideas for cultivating textile in labs came up.The definition of textiles is constantly being challenged; designers now not only look at textile with technology but also the technology of textile production. A notable fabrication tool is 3d printing, which has made a significant impact on the fashion industry. It is garnering a lot of interest, or at the very least, the prospects of it is favorable, evident by the fairly well received 3d printing competition held at the Singapore Nanyang Technological University. 3d printing was initially seen as a very useful tool for product design and medical support purposes until fashion designers like Iris Van Herpen discovered its potential in architectural fashion. Van Herpen won critical acclaim for her intricate 3d printed dresses, her success sparked the growing trend of 3d printed fashion, and be it dresses, jewelry, or shoes, 3d printing is becoming a popular tool for fashion designers, and it is now easily accessible with the availability of affordable desktop 3d printers. Even within the fields of 3d fashion, there are a variety of crafting methodologies; form, material, texture and colour can all be conveniently manipulated.While designers embraced the technology of material fabrication, traditionalfashion design processes and sensibilities are gradually being amalgamated with high-tech methods to produce brand new crafting methodology, hence the design process is inevitably altered to accommodate for it. This brings one to the topic of Computer Aided Design (CAD). For 3d printing, CAD is needed to create a 3d model for printing. Patterns were used to produce clothes industrially since the invention of the sewing machine in 1830, with the use of CAD, designers create their designs on the computer instead of drawing it on paper. CAD and 3d printing either bypasses or changes many of the conventional process of tailoring. Furthermore, computers can be utilized in many ways to create textile designs, for instance, coding can produce interesting computer generated patterns. Certain innovative techniques involve taking advantage of transitional design effects arising from translation of the physical to digital with technology such as scanning. Japanese textile company Nuno is renowned for combining tradition and technology to produce beautiful woven fabrics. Woven structure pattern 1984 is a fabric designed by Nuno founder Jun’ichi Arai by repeatedly photocopying an African kente cloth until it becomes pixelated; it is then scanned and woven on a computer driven Jacquard loom.A more straightforward use of computers is to produce the design directly with illustration software or drawn by hand and scanned in before printing digitally on cloth. Alternatively, vector designs can be sent to laser cutters to cut out shapes in various materials. This method was used to create the cut felt in the “Text-ile Landscape memories”dresses. Laser cutting is a fast and convenient method to produce planar designs. It is able to perform sophisticated cuts on several types of materials whether it’s metal, plastic, wood, felt or paper. The setting just needs to be adjusted according to suit the material. Such automations save time for designers so that more time could be allocated to the creative aspects of the designing. These are all instances of how the technology alters the crafting methods in fashion, as previously mentioned, the type of technology influences the type of fashion. In “Text-ile Landscape”the planar felt material is laser cut and then manipulated to adapt a three-dimensional form. The precise nature of laser cutters and 3d printers inspire a more architectural take on fashion. It can be said that technology inspires amore geometric, clean-cut, “futuristic”style.The accessibility and advancement of technology changes the playing field of the fashion industry. Traditional tailoring requires a significant amount of time when measuring clients for a perfect custom fit, but a 3d scanner is able to quickly obtain accurate three dimension measurements within seconds. A recent service known as bodi.me utilizes body scanners to allow customers to match their sizes to outfits purchased online based on sizing information from registered fashion companies. Imagine if the 3d scanners are combined with 3d printing of garment, perfectly fitting customized clothing could be efficiently and rapidly produced; this would drastically reshape the manufacturing process in fashion design.THE OBSERVED PATTERNThroughout all the examples, it should be noted that there is a pattern. Firstly, there are constant improvements in technology and designers tend to make full use of these tools for their designs, subsequently affecting their design concepts. Secondly, hybridization is rampant in wearable technology. Fashion is a complex and established long standing industry, hybridization is almost unavoidable in order to integrate advanced technology into a field with such a long history. This gives rise to new or combinational crafting or design techniques.There is a correlation between wearable technology designs and the concepts they tend to express. The input and output principles is by virtue of the systemic nature of technology. It is therefore naturally geared toward issues pertaining to interactions, social or otherwise. And since fashion is basically an adornment of the human body, expression of identity and perceived culture becomes a common and favored theme.The rise in wearable technology can be said to be a reflection of our current culture. Availability of specialized kits like Lilypad kits is indicative of the market for wearable technology. It is likewise proof of the codependence and co-influencing between technological advancement and design aspirations of fashion designers. Technology fuels inspiration, and aspirations spurs development.CONCLUSIONConclusively, the various examples of projects examined in the paper show that as technologies continue to evolve, their potential uses in smart clothing grows exponentially, and it simultaneously affects and is affected by the fashion culture. Furthermore, it demonstrates the role and importance of wearable technology in our current high-tech environment and expands functional and expressive possibilities for the modern fashion designer.中文译文：高科技文化时代服装设计的演变摘要服装，像许多其他设计领域一样，古往今来经历了无数次的演变。