染整英语3 dyeing
染整专业英语
专业英语（染整知识）vertical organization全能工厂（指纺织印染整理联合工厂）1）化学药品：A.、无机化学药品氢氧化钠Sodium hydroxide 烧碱caustic sode碳酸钠sodium carbonate ；硅酸钠sodium silicate三磷酸钠sodium triphosphate；磷酸三钠trisodium phosphate 硫酸铜copper sulfate 海藻酸钠sodium alginatesodium次氯酸钠hypochlorite；元明粉（硫酸钠）sodium sulphate 稀硫酸dilute sulphuric acid （硫酸vitriol）醋酸acetic acid 氨ammonia；硫/二氧化硫sulfur/sulfur dioxide氯chlorine 过氧化氢hydrogen peroxide保险粉/连二亚硫酸钠sodium dithionite/hydrosulphite/vat还原反应powder/hydros reduction reaction还原reduction 蒽醌anthraquinone有机硅树脂silicone（n）染料分散剂dye-dispersing agent染色载体dye-carrier 重铬酸盐dichromate盐水（n）brine；食盐dairy salt NaCL sodium chloride AgCL silver nitrate / slivə,nаitrei / Fe iron /áiən / Cr chromium /”krəumiəm/Ni nickel NaHCO3 bakingsoda B、有机化学药品淀粉starchC、印染助剂淀粉酶amylase 果胶酶pectase/pectinase洗涤剂detergent；乳化剂emulsifier润湿剂wetting agent 退浆剂desizing agent；阳离子型柔软剂cationic softener （浆料size/fillings、退浆desizing）抑制剂、缓染剂retarding agent 荧光增白剂optical brightener/fluorescent bleaching agent 催化剂catalyst 百里酚thymol百里酚蓝thymol blue 百里酚酞thymolphthalein螯合的、螯合物chelate 固色剂dye-fixing agent消泡剂anti-foaming agent/defoamant 金属螯合剂metal-sequestering agentPH指示剂hydrogen ion indicator 碘值iodine number/iodine value(涂料用)粘合剂adhesive（n.）bonding agent 粘合剂、接合剂binding agent软水剂water conditioner 氧化剂oxidant/oxidizing agent 润滑剂lubrieant（n）D、染料2）工艺：suture 缝线、接缝、针脚；covered seam包边缝；diawing stitch平整缝合（边与边不重叠）；singeing/gassing 烧毛；steeping in enzyme preparation 酶退浆工艺；desizing退浆；damp dry 半干，带潮；damping/dewing给湿、喷雾；end stitching坯布缝头；scouring煮练；bleaching 漂白；chemic ，chemick 漂液（次氯酸钙或次氯酸钠常溶液）；mercerizing 丝光（工艺）；mercerization 丝光（作用）；pad轧染；tenter 拉幅（V）；stentering 拉幅（工艺）；pre-shrinking（n）预缩；shrink-resistant finish 防缩整理；varnishing 涂蜡、上蜡；loaded/loading增重；napping（n）拉绒；soil-release finish易去污整理；fluorochemical含氟化合物；baking/curing（高温）焙烘；heat setting 热定型；brushed 磨毛；thermosol dyeing/pad-bake dyeing 热熔染色；texturizing finishes 织物变形（指组织）整理；calender finish 轧光整理；stiffening finish 硬挺整理；antislip finish 防滑移整理；waterproof finish 防水整理；antiseptic finish 防腐整理；bacteriostatic finish抗菌整理；moth-resistant finish 防蛀整理；anti-stain/antisoiling finish 防污整理；cold fix method （活性染料）冷固色法；pad-batch cold dyeing冷堆染色；3）染料：disperse dye 分散染料；vat dye 还原染料；reactive dye 活性染料；pigment 涂料、颜料；sulfur dye硫化染料cationic dye阳离子染料；azoic dye不溶性偶氮染料；naphthol dye纳夫妥染料；copper phthalocyanine 铜酞菁；ternary/tertiary colours 三拼色；dispersable vat dyes分散型还原染料（指超细粉型，可与分散染料同浴染色）；suspension 悬浮体（n..）；leuco-compound隐色体（n..）vinyl-sulfone reactive dyes 乙烯砜型活性染料；compatible dyes配伍性染料；luminescent dyes荧光染料；4）设备：entering arrangment进布装置；donkey stitching machine 坯布缝头机cloth feeder探边器；clothing sheet针板dosing system计量、加料系统chain-stitch 链式针迹（缝制）；singeing frame烧毛机；roller singer 圆筒烧毛机；gas singer煤气烧毛机；quench box灭火槽；boil-out 煮练；steam chamber 汽蒸室；steam cottage 蒸箱；vat、trough 槽；chassis（轧染机）轧液槽；cylinder圆筒；drying cylinder烘筒、烘缸；clamp/clip 布铗；drum 滚筒；jigger（jig）（n）卷染机；pressure dyeing machine 高压染色机；thermosol range热熔染色联合机；thermo-hotflue热风式定型机；clip（tenter frame）stenter 布铗拉幅机；chain mercerizer 布铗丝光机；chainless padless mercerizing range 直辊丝光机；circulation tank 回流槽；pin tenter frame 针板拉幅机；（slit）gas burners（狭缝）煤气火口；batching roller 卷边辊；guiding roller导布辊；spreading roller /equalizer roll扩幅辊；applicator roller 给液辊；bowed roller弯辊（弧形辊）；dance roller 张力调节辊、升降辊；slow motion 减速装置；sluice line 冲洗管路（排放路线）throttle valve 节汽（流）、减压阀；wince（winch）六角盘；worm 蜗杆、盘香管；bearing轴承；drain valve疏水阀；barometer气压计（表）ball mill球磨机；baking stove /curing machine焙烘/焙固机；cistern贮液槽；header box 高位槽；slicking-in roller 压辊；slipping clutch 摩擦离合器；sling hygrometer，sling psychrometer手旋（干湿球）湿度计；infra-red 红外线；padding mangle（padder）浸轧机（轧车）；mangling roller 轧辊；nip（轧辊的）轧点；strain roll 张力辊、松紧辊；covered rolls（包覆）橡胶辊；thermo-hygrograph温度湿度记录器；baro-thermo-hygrograph 气压-温度-湿度仪；dasher叶片式搅拌器；metering pump计量泵；calendaring machine 轧光机；oven（n）烘箱；air-supply line 进风管、进风道；centring adjustment 对中装置5）专业术语：conversion（印染术语）印染加工，转化、转化率；deferred cure/delayed-cure后焙烘、延迟焙烘；density 比重、浓度；dissolvability溶解度；double thread-up（平洗槽）回形穿布down-time停台时间size loading/size-pick-up上浆率；size mixture混合浆料；stitch-out 绗缝；emulsify 乳化（v）emulsification （n）乳化（作用）；cross section横截面slop padding浸轧（工艺）；solubillity溶解度；overfeed/superfeed 超喂（n.）crystallinity 结晶度auxiliary（n）助剂non-ioni（a）非离子的；anionic（a.）阴离子的；cation阳离子；union dyeing 混纺交织物染色；tension 张力；pleating褶裥；crease retention 褶裥保持性、折缝耐久性barium number（丝光）钡值；gloss（丝光表面）光泽；dyeing formula染色配（处）方；dye yield得色量；level dyeing匀染、均匀染色；loading port进布口；nerve 回缩性、（弹性）复原性；dye uptake吸色率、上染率；affinity for dyestuffs染料亲和力setting zone定型区；curing（n）焙烘、焙固；fiber breakage纤维断裂；steam fixation汽蒸固色；strength of a dye 染料力分；delivery seal 出布处封口；chromatic difference色差；chromatograph色谱仪、色层分离仪；chromophore发色团、生色基（染料的组成部分）；colour bodies 发色体；bleed（v.）渗色；one-bath process一浴法；two-bath process两浴法；liquor ratio 浴比、液比；liquor level 液位；water lute水（液）封；water lock（seal）水封口；tension张力；stress应力；alkali reclaim 碱液回收；hydro-extracted 脱水；specific mass 密度；spectrophotometer分光光度计；super-heated steam 过热蒸汽；reproducibility（n）重现性；drapability/draping悬垂性；capillary attraction毛细管效应；viscosity （n）粘度；humidity（n）湿度；slippage（n）经纬滑动；surface active agent/surfactant表面活性剂nondurable（a）不耐久的semidurable（a）半耐久的morphological structure 形态结构；feeding ratio补液比（开始轧槽浓度与补充液浓度之比）；formula（染整）工艺计划、工艺处方；processing parameter工艺参数；6)纤维与织物：drilling斜纹布、卡其；raw cotton 原棉；unbleached material坯布；linen 亚麻布、亚麻纱线；flax 亚麻；ramie 苎麻；cellulose 纤维素swansdown twill（crow-twill）三上一下斜纹织物tabby /plain weave 平纹union混纺（交织）织物；pectic products 果胶物pectin 果胶质Polypropylene 聚丙烯（n.）polyester 涤纶nylon/polyamide（尼龙）锦纶；rayon人棉；viscose fibre 粘胶纤维spandex/elastic/strec/lycra/urethane elastic fiber 氨纶（弹力/莱卡）；spun 短纤；mineral substances 矿物质；blends混纺纱；viscose rayor粘胶人造丝；rayon staple粘胶短纤维；tweel（n）斜纹；poplin 府绸；waling to right（left）右（左）斜纹；width in reed 筘幅；core-spun spandex 包芯氨纶丝（纱）cover type elastic yarn 包覆弹力纱；cotton stretch弹力棉织物；cotton warp linen 棉麻交织物；druid 棉帆布；duck帆布、粗布；duvetyn 起绒织物；suede cloth 仿皮织物；flannelette（n）绒布；cords 灯芯绒裤；corduroy灯芯绒；cross twill weave 破斜纹组织；cross twist S捻、顺手捻7）成品与包装tailings/end fent 短码布/头子布；batching machine/（mechanism）/（cloth rolling machine）卷布机（装置）；cloth inspecting /（or looking）machine验布机；conette小纸管；cop tube纸管；cut across（疵布）开匹、开剪cut looker 验布工；cloth press 打包机；hooker码布机；length of cut匹长；rank score评分、评级；8）测试和检验：seam fraying 接缝处的纱线滑移；count支数、号数、织物经纬密度；taper line gratings/thread counter （经纬）密度镜；tentering of weft整纬；thermotank 恒温箱；thermo tester耐升华牢度试验仪；colour dispensary 配色间、染料间；constant air conditioning/constant temperature and humidity恒温恒湿；dead match 与来样完全符合（指染色）；drawn sample抽样；off colour对不上样，色差；颜色走样；off shade 色差（尤指染色织物的边中前后色差）9）疵点（fault）：slack end/slack warp 松经（织疵）slack list 松边（织疵）slime spots浆斑slub/slugs/nubs /thickened roving粗节/纱的粗节，糙粒（疵点）；nicked yarn竹节纱（棉纱疵点）；soft sides 烂纱、断经—（thread out断、缺经）stripe横档、条子taped filling多纬taut pick 紧纬tie-back吊经/松紧条痕；tight end /（filling）吊经（纬）、紧经（纬）、急经（纬）；blotchy斑污（渍）；thin pick细纬；dragging纬斜；unever bleaching 漂白不匀；unever bottoming打底不匀；unever developing显色不匀；sloughed filling/sloughed-off weft脱纬，塌纡（织疵）；small warp ends （织物）经密不足；snow ball起球（织疵）；streaky dyeing 色柳、染色条花；dyeing defect色花（染疵）；teardrop，teariness 纬斜；torn list破边；torn selvedge拉破边（整理疵）；crease mark （前处理绳状产生的）折痕；listing 边色深浅；tailing（n）/ending头尾色差/前后色差；streakiness（n）条痕、条花；levelness（n）匀染性；two-sidedness（n）阴阳面；burl mark修补痕（织疵）；cracked dent筘路、筘痕；chalkiness失光，光泽黯淡发白（印染疵点）cobbing （染疵）织物回修；cockle，cockel（织物）不均匀皱纹；drain mark水渍、水印（印疵）；flyings飞花、飞毛；heterogeneous yarn异形纤；irregularity of singeing烧毛不匀；nep棉结、白星、麻粒、麻结；2004年11月6日。
纺织英语词汇
染化专业词汇染整与环境工程系Department of dyeing , printing and environment engineering（1 ）前处理：singeing n. 烧毛desizing n. 退浆scouring n. 煮练bleaching n. 漂白mercerizing n. 丝光处理heat setting 热定型（2 ）染料：acid dyes 酸性染料reactive dyes 活性染料disperse dyes 分散染料cation dyes 阳离子染料vat dyes 还原染料direct dyes 直接染料sulphur dyes 硫化染料（3 ）染色工艺：pad v. 轧染，浸轧tie dye 扎染pigment dye 颜料染色sparging （jet ）dyeing machine 喷射式染色机high temperature overflow dyeing machine 高温溢流high temperature and high pressure yarn dyeing machine 高温高压染纱机atmospheric overflow dyeing machine 常温溢流染色机rope impregnating mangle 绳状浸染机（4 ）印花工艺：direct printing 直接印花transfer printing 转移印花roller printing 滚筒印花screen printing 筛网印花block printing 模版印花plate screen printing 平网印花rotary screen printing 圆网印花discharge print 拔染印花busy print 喷墨印花（5 ）整理工艺：covering, coating 涂层compound, composite 复合sanding 磨毛cire calendar 压光friction finish 摩擦轧光整理calendar finish 轧光整理fleece finish 起绒整理flame retardant finish 阻燃整理mellow finish 柔软整理resin finishing 树脂整理starch finishing 上浆（6 ）纺织品测试，产品检验及标准方面quality standard 质量标准tensile strength 拉伸强度customer inspection 客检table inspection 台板检验lamp inspection 经向检验washing color fastness 皂洗色牢度color fastness 色牢度rubbing / cricking color fastness 摩擦色牢度light color fastness 光照色牢度perspiration color fastness 汗渍色牢度water color fastness 水渍色牢度dimensional stability 尺寸稳定性appearance retention 外观持久性tear strength 撕破强度seam slippage 接缝滑裂pilling resistance 抗起毛起球性abrasion resistance 耐磨性water repellency 拒水性water resistance 抗水性thread per inch /stich density 织物密度yarn count 纱支weight 克重chlorine bleach color fastness 氯漂白色牢度fibre composition 纤维成分dyestuff identification 染料识别purity of indigo 靛蓝染料纯度moisture content 含水率extractable matter 可萃取物质filling and foreign matter content 填充料和杂质量starch content 淀粉含量formaldehyde content 甲醛含量presence of formaldehyde resin 甲醛树脂mercerisation in cotton 棉丝光度PH value PH 值Dimensional stability (shrinkage) and related tests 尺寸稳定性及有关测试1 dimensional stability to washing 水洗缩率测试2 each additional wash cycle 每增加一次水洗循环3 appearance after laundering 洗涤后外观4 dimensional stability to dry cleaning 干洗缩率5 each additional dryclean cycle 每增加一次干洗6 appearance after dry cleaning (appearance retention) 干洗后外观7 durable of applied designs and finishes to dry cleaning 印花花纹和整理剂性8 dimensional stability to relaxation 松弛缩率9 dimensional stability to felting 毡化缩率10 dimensional stability to free steam 蒸气缩率11 dimensional stability to heating in house 热缩率12 spirality / skewing of fabric & garments 织物和服装扭曲/ 歪斜13 dimensional stability to steam pressing / ironing 蒸气压烫/ 熨斗熨烫缩率14 tumbler shrinkage 圆筒烘干缩率15 cold water immersion 冷水浸洗缩率16 additional ironing 每增加一次熨烫17 effect after wash & pressing 洗涤后效果18 effect after pressing 熨后效果Colour fastness tests 染色坚牢度测试1 Colour fastness to washing 耐水洗色牢度2 Colour fastness to perspiration 耐汗渍色牢度3 Colour fastness to Dry & wet crocking / rubbing 耐摩擦色牢度4 Colour fastness to light/weathering (xenon) 耐光照/ 气候色牢度5 Colour fastness to water 耐水色牢度6 Colour fastness to sea water 耐海水色牢度7 Colour fastness to chlorinated water 耐氯水化色牢度8 Colour fastness to dry cleaning 耐干洗色牢度9 Actual laundering (one wash) 实际洗涤（一次水洗）10 Commerical dryclean 商业干洗11 Colour fastness to dry heat 干热12 Colour fastness to hot pressing 热压13 Colour fastness to water spotting 水斑14 Colour fastness to acid spotting 酸斑15 Colour fastness to alkaline spottig 碱斑16 Colour fastness to bleaching 漂白17 Colour fastness to chlorine bleaching 耐氯漂色牢度18 Colour fastness to non-chlorine bleaching 非氯漂19 Organic solvents 有机溶剂20 Sublimation during storage 存放升华21 Perborate 酸钠22 Phenolic yellowing 酚醛发黄23 Sweat & saliva 汗液及唾液24 Washing (with shrinkage conducted) 水洗色牢度（缩水测试后）25 Bleeding 渗色度26 Ozone 臭氧27 Gas fume 烟气28 Dye transfer in storage 储存时颜色转移29 Light & perspiration 光照及汗液30 Contact test 接触测试31 Wicking 吸水32 Colour transfer against special condition 特别情况下颜色转移33 Colour fastness to perborate & light 过硼酸盐及光照色牢度34 Colour fastness of fabrics 布料颜色牢度Strength tests 强度测试1 Tensile strength 拉伸2 Lea strength 绞纱 3 Single thread/yarn strength 单线纱4 bursting strength 胀破强力5 Seam performance 接缝 6 Tearing strength 撕裂7 Bonding strength 粘合强力8 Loop strength 打结，钩接强力Fabric / garment performance and flammability tests 品质及燃烧测试1 Abrasion ressistance 耐磨性2 Pilling ressistance 抗毛性3 Snagging ressistance 防钩丝4 Wrinkle/crease recovery 皱纹/ 折痕回复性5 Stiffness 布料硬挺度6 Stretch and recovery 伸展及回复性7 Water repellency 防水性8 Oil repellency 防油性9 Soil release 防污10 Needle cutting 烧针现象11 Flammabillity 燃烧性12 Surfce flammabillity of carpets and rugs 地毯燃烧测试13 Durability of applied designs and finishes to dry cleaning 印花花纹和整理剂14 Wettability 湿润度15 Absorbency of bleached textiles 漂白纺织品和吸水性16 Air permeability 透气性17 Water vapour permeability index 透湿指数18 Thermal stability of coated fabric 涂层织物之耐热性19 Resistance to blocking 抗阻塞性20 Water vapour transmision 透湿性21 Dry fit function 快干综合功能22 Cold bending test for coated fabric 涂层织物的低温弯曲度测试23 Brittleness temp. of plastic sheeting 塑料脆化温度24 Antistatic 防静电25 Thermal ressistance 保暖度纤维、纱线及面料：涤纶：ployester 锦纶：nylon/polyamide 醋酸：acetate 棉；cotton 人棉：rayon真丝：silk 人丝：viscose 长丝：filament 短纤：spun 氨纶：spandex/elastic/strec/lycra纱线Yarns 棉纱Cotton Yarns 涤棉纱T/C & CVC Yarns 粘棉纱Cotton/Rayon Yarns棉晴纱Cotton/Acrylic Yarns 棉/ 氨纶包芯纱Cotton/Spandex Yarns棉与其他混纺纱Cotton/Others Blended Yarns 毛纺系列纱线Woollen Yarn Series羊绒纱Cashmere Yarn Series 全羊毛纱Wool (100%) Yarns毛晴纱Wool/Acrylic Yarns 毛涤纱Wool/Polyester Yarns 毛粘纱Wool/Viscose Yarns麻棉混纺布：linen/cotton blended fabric 麻棉交织布：linen/cotton mixed fabric里料：lining 面料：fabric m 平纹：taffeta 缎面：satin / charmeuse 斜纹：twill缩写C ：Cotton 棉W ：Wool 羊毛M ：Mohair 马海毛RH ：Rabbit hair 兔毛AL ：Alpaca 羊驼毛S ：Silk 真丝J ：Jute 黄麻L ：linen 亚麻Ts ：Tussah silk 柞蚕丝YH ：Yark hair 牦牛毛Ly ：lycra 莱卡Ram ：Ramine 苎麻Hem ：Hemp 大麻T ：Polyester 涤纶WS ：Cashmere 羊绒N ：Nylon 锦纶（尼龙）A ：Acrylic 腈纶Tel ：Tencel 天丝, 是Lyocell 莱赛尔纤维的商品名称La ：Lambswool 羊羔毛Md ：Model 莫代尔CH ：Camel hair 驼毛CVC ：chief value of cotton 涤棉倒比（涤含量低于60 ％以下）Ms ：Mulberry silk 桑蚕丝R ：Rayon 粘胶1. 天然纤维--natural fibre 植物纤维---plant fiber 种子毛纤维(seed fibre) ：棉花(cotton) 、木棉(kapok) 韧皮纤维(bast fiber) ：亚麻(flax) 、大麻(Hemp) 、苎麻(Ramie) ，黄麻(Jute) 、青麻、洋麻叶纤维(leaf fibre) ：剑麻(sisal hemp) 、蕉麻(Manila hemp)果实纤维(fruit fibre) 椰子纤维(coconut fibre)动物纤维---animal fibre 毛发(hair) ：羊毛(wool) 、兔毛(rabbit hair) 、鸵毛(camel hair) 等分泌物：家蚕、柞蚕(tussah silk) 、桑蚕丝(mulberry silk)矿物纤维---mineral fiber ：石棉(asbestos fiber)2. 人造纤维--man-made fibre无机纤维：金属纤维、玻璃纤维、岩石纤维矿渣纤维等---inorganic fiber: metal fiber 、stone fiber 、glass fiber 、slag fiber,人造纤维素纤维：粘胶纤维、铜氨纤维等---Man-made cellulose fibre viscose 、Cuprammouium rayon纤维素酯纤维: 二醋酯纤维、三醋酯纤维---Cellulose acetate-fiber ：two-acetate fiberthree-acetate fiber人造蛋白纤维: 酪素纤维、玉米蛋白纤维、大豆蛋白纤维等---corn protein fiber 、pea protein fiber3. 合成纤维(synthetic fibre) OR (chemical fiber)聚酯纤维( 聚对苯二甲酸二甲酯) ：涤纶(PET) T (polyethylene terephthalate ：polyester)聚酰胺纤维：锦纶(PA) N （聚酰胺, 尼龙）聚丙烯腈系纤维: 腈纶(PVN) A （polyacrylonitrile , 丙烯酸）聚烯烃纤维: 丙纶(PP) （聚丙烯）聚氨酯纤维: 氨纶(OP) （polyruethane elastomeric 纤维; 斯潘德克斯弹性纤维）聚乙烯醇缩醛纤维: 维纶(PVA) V （维尼纶）聚氯乙稀：氯纶（PVC ）（chlorofibre , 聚乙烯化合物的氯化物纤维）颜色：红色red 朱红vermeil; vermilion; ponceau 粉红pink; soft red; rose bloom 玫瑰红rose madder; rose 桃红peach blossom; peach; 橙色orange 黄色yellow桔黄orange; crocus; gamboge; 深桔黄, 深橙deep orange 米黄apricot cream cream中黄midium yellow 嫩黄yellow cream 绿色green 橄榄绿olive green olive 水草绿water grass green 深草绿jungle green 灰湖绿agate green 水晶绿crystal green中绿medium green; golf green 浅绿light green 淡绿pale green 蓝色blue 天蓝sky blue; azure celeste; 蔚蓝azure; sky blue 海洋蓝ocean blue 紫色purple; violet紫罗兰色violet 葡萄紫grape 茄皮紫aubergine; wineberry 玫瑰紫rose violet黑色black 土黑earth black 煤黑coal black 橄榄黑olive black棕黑sepia; brown black 白色white 象牙白ivory white; ivory珍珠白pear white gray lily 玉石白jade white 灰色grey; gray银灰silver grey;chinchilla; gray mom 铁灰iron grey 铅灰lividity 、leaden grey碳灰charcoal grey 驼灰doe 豆灰rose dust 棕色, 褐色brown 红棕umber; chili金棕auburn 铁锈棕rustic brown 桔棕orange brown 橄榄棕olive brown 棕褐summer tan 茶褐auburn umber 黑褐black brown 咖啡色coffee紫酱色marron 茶色umber; dun; dark brown 琥珀色amber;succinite栗色chestnut; sorrel; marron 金色gold 古金色old gold 银色silver; argent 铅色lividity 锌色zinc 铁锈色rust 青古铜色bronze; bronzy 黑古铜色dark bronze紫铜色purple bronze 黄铜色brassiness 驼色camel; light tan米色beige; buff; cream; gray sand 卡其色khaki 奶油色cream 豆沙色cameo肉色flesh , carnation;incarnadine; yellowish pink 水晶色crystal 荧光色iridescent服装专业词汇服装服饰常用词汇分类服装服饰基本词汇（Basic knowledge of Dress)中文英文中文英文服装garments; apparel 高级时装saute couture服装设计garment design 针织服装knitted garments /wear服装公司garment company 梭织服装woven garments /wear服装模特garment model 服装工业apparel factory化妆品cosmetic 服装纺织品apparel/clothing textiles服装设计（Garment Design ）中文英文中文英文身材stature; figure; build 颈点neck point标准体型standard form/figure 肩宽shoulder width/length 特殊体型special form/figure 肩斜，小肩宽s houlder lopes袖肥biceps circumference 前，（后）中心线front,(back) center line 裤长pantaloons 背宽back width; across back; 直裆，立裆rise; fork to waist 胸围chest; breast line; bust 尺码，尺寸size; measurements 腰围waist line裁片cutted pieces; cut parts 臀围，坐围hipline; hip girth;衬裙slip; petticoat 下摆bottom; hem; sweep背心，马甲vest 背长back length; neck waistlength成衣read-to-wear; tailoring 上装upper outer garment夹克，（衫）j acket; blouson 袄Chinese-style coat袍robes; bathrobe 套装suit; outfit礼仪服装formal attire 制服uniform; livery; garb内衣underwear; undershirt 睡衣裤pajamas; nightwear/suit/clothes服装款式（Terms of Positions and Parts for Garments ）中文英文中文英文单，（双）排扣门襟single-breasted closing 插肩，（连身）袖raglan,(all-in-one)sleeve领袢collar tap 肩，（袖）袢s houlder tab大，（小）袖t op,(under) sleeve 挂面front facing褶裥pleat 衬里interlining造型线shaped line 结构线structure line公主线型princess line 轮廓线silhouette line; outline贴，（挖）袋p atch,(insert) pocket 衩，（袖衩）v ent,(cuff vent)服装面/ 辅料（Apparel Fabrics/Accessories ）中文英文中文英文天然, （人造）纤维natural,(chemical) fiber 毛皮，皮革fur; leather四合扣no-sew snap 纱线thread; yarn衬里料lining fabric 填料stuffing; wadding衬垫pad; wadding 带，绳belt; tape商标，唛label; trademark 拉练zip-fastener; zip徽章emblem; badge 花边lace; motif刺绣embroidery; stitch 魔术带hook and loop fastener; tape服装色彩（Colour in Fashion ）中文英文中文英文流行色fashion colour; trendcolour配色colour matching冷，（暖）色调cool,(warm)tone 色系 colour system服装图案（ Design, Print and Dyeing of Apparel Fabrics ）中文 英文 中文 英文图案 design 花纹，花样 pattern条纹 stripe 纹样 ornament格子 tartan ; check 点纹 dot印花 print 染色 dyeing服饰（ Furnishings ）中文 英文 中文 英文帽，头戴物 cap; hat; headdress 领带，领结 necktie; bowtie手，头，围，披巾 Handkerchief; scarf; muffler; shawl; hood 手套，袖套，袖筒gloves; mitts腰带，围裙 belt,; cincture 手镯，脚镯 Bracelet; leglet面纱，面具 veil; masks 袜，绑腿 socks; hose; leg warppings 假发 wig 手杖 stick; cane折扇 folding fan 阳伞 parasol; brolly; sunshade 鞋，靴 shoes; boots 别针 pin服装制作与工艺（ Clothing Technological Operation ）中文 英文 中文 英文制版 sample making 尺码缩放 size grading; grading 工艺要求，（流程） technological requirements, (process) 立体，（平面）裁剪draping,(planar)cutting 原型 block pattern 铺布 spread fabric下料 lay off 经，（纬）纱向length,(weft) grain排料 layout; making the lay 线迹－缝纫 sewing; stitching平缝 plain seam 缉明线 topstitching锁边 overlocking; overcasting 绱袖 Set-in sleeve开袋 cut pocket mouth 绱腰头 attach waistband合侧缝 machine-stitch side seam 镶边 trim paste钉扣 sew on button 熨烫 pressing; ironing包装 packing 成品检验 checking of finished products其他（ Other ）陈列设计 display design 时尚编辑 fashion edit时尚买手 fashion buyer 品牌导购 senior guide空间陈列 space management 大型卖场 megastore折扣店 outlets 连锁店 chain store特许加盟店 franchise 专卖店 special store。
染整科技英语1词汇
染整科技英语1词汇轻纺学院染整08级天然纤维(Natural Fibers) ['nætʃərəl]['faibə]fiber,fibre['faibə]纤维cotton ['kɔtən]棉花linen ['linin]亚麻布（纱线）flax [flæks]亚麻jute 黄麻hemp [hemp]大麻ramie ['ræmi]苎麻property ['prɔpəti]性质，特性cellulose ['seljuləus]纤维素pectic ['pektik]果胶的dye [dai]染料，染色dyeing ['daiiŋ]染色（工艺）apparel [ə'pærəl]服装（统称）fashion-minded['fæʃən]崇尚时代的blends [blend]混纺纱reagent [ri:'eidʒənt]试剂degradation [,deɡrə'deiʃən]降解unicellular [,ju:ni'seljulə]单细胞的multicellular[,mʌlti'seljulə]多细胞的luster,lustre['lʌstə]光泽alkali ['ælkəlai]碱fibrous ['faibrəs]含纤维的，纤维状的fleece(wool) ['fli:s][wul]套毛clip wool [klip]剪毛carcass ['kɑ:kəs]尸体keratin ['kerətin]角蛋白fluffy ['flʌfi]有绒毛的，绒毛状的beetle ['bi:tl]甲虫skein ['skein]绞纱，绞丝合成纤维（Man-Made Fibers）['mæn'meid]['faibə] viscous ['viskəs]粘性的spinneret ['spinərət]喷丝板（头）regenerated [ri'dʒenəreit, ri:-]再生的rayon ['reiɔn]人造丝degrade ['di'ɡreid]降解adhesion [əd'hi:ʒən]粘附作用tenacity [ti'næsiti, tə-]强度，韧度以上查阅人：孙海莲staple 短纤维['steipl]copper sulfate 硫酸铜['kɔpə]['sʌlfeit]ammonia 氨[ə'məunjə]triacetate fiber 三醋酯纤维[trai'æsiteit]['faibə] thermoplastic 热塑性的[,θə:məu'plæstik]drape 悬垂[dreip]satin 经缎['sætin]lingerie 女内衣['lɔnʒəri, læŋʒ'ri:]crisp 挺爽的[krisp]polyester fiber 聚酯纤维[,pɔli'estə]polyamide 聚酰胺[,pɔli'æmaid]polyacrylonitrile聚丙烯腈['pɔli,ækriləu'naitril]elasticity 弹性[,elæs'tisəti]abrasion 磨损[ə'breiʒən]dyeability 可染性[,daiə'biləti]static charge 静电荷['stætik][tʃɑ:dʒ]copolymer 共聚物[kəu'pɔlimə]acrylonitrile 丙烯腈[,ækriləu'naitrail]bulking power 膨化力[bʌlkiŋ][pauə]launder 洗涤['lɔ:ndə, 'lɑ:n-]pilling 起球['piliŋ]烧毛和退浆（Singeing and Desizing）singe 烧毛[sindʒ]desize 退浆[di:'saiz]man-introduced 人为的[,intrə'dju:s]uniform 均匀的['ju:nifɔ:m]projecting fibers 外露的茸毛[prəu'dʒektiŋ]chain-stitch 链式针迹['tʃeinstitʃ]singer 烧毛机['siŋə]in open width 平幅[widθ]quenchbox 灭火槽[kwentʃ]size 浆料[saiz]impregnate 浸渍['impreɡneit]piler 甩布器['pailə]steep bin 浸渍贮存箱[sti:p][bin]boil-out 煮练[bɔilaut]starch 淀粉[stɑ:tʃ]sulphuric acid 硫酸[sʌl'fjuərik] ['æsid]decomposition [,dikɑmpə'zɪʃən] 分解scour 煮练，精练以上查阅人：高晶晶煮练（Scouring） ['skauəriŋ]pectin 果胶质 ['pektin]severity 剧度[si'veriti]saponification 皂化 [sə,pɔnifi'keiʃən] emulsify 乳化[i'mʌlsifai]kier 煮布锅煮练 [kiə(r)]steaming 汽蒸['sti:miŋ]column （布）柱 ['kɔləm]caustic soda 烧碱['kɔ:stik] ['səudə] pine oil soap 松油皂 [pain] [səup]steeping 浸渍['sti:piŋ]trough 槽 [trɔf, trɔ:f]mangling roller 轧辊mangle['mæŋɡl]winch machine 绞盘机[wintʃ]detergent 洗涤剂[di'tə:dʒənt]liquor 溶液，液 ['likə]guiding peg 导桩['gaidiŋ][peɡ]nip （轧辊的）轧点[nip]weight loss失重漂白（Bleaching）['blitʃiŋ]coloring matter 色素 ['kʌləriŋ] ['mætə]dyestuff 染料['daistʌf]chlorine 氯 ['klɔ:ri:n]hydrogen peroxide 双氧水['haidrədʒən] [pə'rɔksaid]sodium hypochlorite 次氯酸钠['səudiəm] [,haipəu'klɔ:rait] sodium chlorite 亚氯酸钠 ['səudiəm] ['klɔ:rait] sodium triphosphate 三聚磷酸钠['səudiəm] [trai'fɔsfeit] sulfurous acid 亚硫酸['sʌlfərəs, -fjuə-] ['æsid]prewasher 预洗机saturator 浸渍器['sætʃəreitə]storage bin 积布池 ['stɔridʒ] [bin]loop 悬环[lu:p]discoloration 脱色[dis,kʌlə'reiʃən]crease mark 折痕[kri:s]opotical brightener 荧光增白剂stoving 硫熏['stəuviŋ]pad-roll method 浸轧-卷蒸法impregnator 浸轧机以上查阅人：孙秀华insulated {ˈinsjuleitid}box 隔离箱soda[ˈsəudə] ash [æʃ] 苏打灰，纯碱trisodium[traiˈsəudiəm] phosphate [ˈfɔsˈfeɪt] 磷酸三钠pale[peil] shade [ʃeid] 浅淡色泽bright [brait] shade [ʃeid] 鲜艳色泽丝光（Mercerizing）mercerizing [ˈmə:səraiz] 丝光saturate [ˈsætʃəreit] 浸渍tenter [ˈtentə] 拉幅set 定型neutralize [ˈnu:trəˈlaɪz] 使中和dry 烘干resin [ˈrezɪn] 树脂selvedge [ˈselvidʒ] 布边stretch [stretʃ] 拉伸contraction[kənˈtrækʃən] 收缩counteract[ˈkauntəˈrækt] 抵消，中和rinse [rins] 淋洗compactness [kəmˈpæktnɪs] 紧密度cross section 横截面gloss [glɔ:s, glɔs] 光泽sheen [ʃi:n] 光泽，光彩twist [twist] 扭曲，加捻tension [ˈtenʃən] 张力crystallinary [ˈkristəlɪnəri] 结晶度station [ˈsteiʃən] 应力slack[slæk] 松弛的shrink [ʃriŋk] 收缩widthwise [ˈwɪdθˈwaɪz] 纬向evaporate [iˈvæpəreit] 蒸发，汽化claim [kleim] 声称，主张soil pick-up 吸污，沾污crease [kri:s] resistance [riˈzistəns] 抗（防）皱性热定形（Heat Setting）heat-sensitive 热敏性的re-orientation 英音：[,ɔ:rien'teiʃən]美音：[,orɪɛn'teʃən] 再取向crystalline 英音：['kristəlain]美音：['krɪst!,aɪn] 结晶的pleating 褶裥以上查阅人：王佳resiliency [ri'ziliənsi]弹回性能embossing [im'bɔsiŋ]轧花，压花uniformity [.ju:ni'fɔ:miti]均匀性fixation [fik'seiʃən]固色unvarying [ʌn'vɛəriiŋ]不变的，恒久的dye uptake[dai] ['ʌpteik]吸色率，上染率Thermosol dyeing ['θə:məsɔl]热熔染色cylinder['silində]圆筒drum [drʌm]滚筒over feed ['əuvə][fi:d]超喂clamp [klæmp]布夹knitgoods['nitgudz]针织物perforate ['pə:fəreit]穿孔suction ['sʌkʃən]吸，吸力to a certain extent ['sə:tn] [iks'tent]一定程度上染色概述（A Brief Description of Dyeing）[bri:f][di'skripʃən] fastness ['fæstnis]坚牢度retard [ri'tɑ:d]抑制long bath[lɔŋ][bɑ:θ]大浴比short bath[ʃɔ:t][bɑ:θ]小浴比assistant [ə'sistənt]助剂coal-tar [kəul-tɑ:]煤焦油indigo ['indigəu]靛蓝alizarin [ə'lɪzərɪn]茜素derivative [di'rivətiv]衍生物salting-out agent ['sɔ:ltiŋ-aut]['eidʒənt]盐析剂染料分类（Classification of Dyes）[.klæsifi'keiʃən] [ɔv] [dais] substantive (direct)dye ['sʌbstəntiv]（[di'rekt]）[dai]直接染料azoic dye [ə'zoɪk][dai]不溶性偶氮染料，冰染料naphtholdye ['næfθəul][dai]纳夫妥染料，萘酚染料acid dye ['æsid][dai]酸性染料mordant dye ['mɔ:dənt][dai]媒染染料metallized (premetallized ) dye ['metlaizd] [dai]金属络合染料cationic dye ['kætaiənik] [dai]阳离子染料basis dye ['beisis] [dai]碱性染料disperse dye [dis'pə:s] [dai]分散染料vat dye [væt] [dai]还原染料sulfur dye ['sʌlfə] [dai]硫化染料以上查阅人：李婧reactive dye ri:ˈæktɪvdaɪ活性染料pigment [ˈpɪgmənt]涂料，颜料binding agentˈbaɪndɪŋˈeidʒənt粘合剂diazotize daiˈæzətaiz]重氮化polypropylene ˈpɔliˈprəupili:n聚丙烯solvent ˈsɔlvənt溶剂formic acid ˈfɔ:mikˈæsid甲酸，蚁酸fugitive ˈfju:dʒitiv易褪色的perspiration ˈpɜ:spəˈreɪʃən汗渍chromium ˈkrəʊmi:əm铬nickel ˈnikəl镍anthraquinoneˈænθrəkwiˈnəun蒽醌suspension səˈspenʃən悬浮体leucoˈlju:kəu隐色体cobaltous laminate kəuˈbɔ:ltəsˈlæməˈneɪt铝酸钴phthalocyan酞菁染料dioxazine 二恶嗪triarylmethane 三芳基甲烷adhesive ədˈhi:si v粘合剂，胶粘剂develop 显色bleed 渗色cobalt ˈkoˈbɔlt钴tannic acid [ˈtænɪkˈæsid单宁酸，鞣酸colloidal kəˈlɔidl胶态的sulfonate ˈsʌlfəˈneit使磺化spectrum ˈspektrəm光谱acetic acid əˈsi:tik[ˈæsid醋酸olefinˈəuləfin烯属烃染色理论（Principles of Dyeing）exhaustion ɪgˈzɔ:stʃən尽染，上染率sparingly [ˈspeərɪŋlɪ少量地，贫乏地auxiliary ɔ:ɡˈziljər i助剂non-ionic nuŋaiˈɔnik非离子的sodium hydrosulphiteˈsəʊdi:əmˌhaidrəuˈsʌlfait保险粉，连二亚硫酸钠leuco compound [ˈlju:kəu[ˈkɔmpaund]隐色体soaping [ˈsəupiŋ皂洗aniline black ˈænili:n苯胺黑，阿尼林黑turkey red oil 土耳其红油behave表现为（某种性状）以上查阅人：闵惠染色方法（Methods of Dyeing）stock dyeing [stɔk]['daiiŋ]原料染色top dyeing [tɔp]毛条染色sliver ['slivə]条子，纱条package dyeing ['pækidʒ]卷装染色solution (dope )dyeing [sə'lju:ʃən][dəup]纺前染色warp [wɔ:p]经纱beam [bi:m]经轴，经轴plaid [plæd]格子花纹，方格布check [tʃek]格纹stripe [straip]条纹muted color ['mju:tid]晕色iridescent [,iri'desənt, 'aiəri-]闪光的space dyeing [speis]间隔染色piece dyeing [pi:s]匹染solid-color fabric ['sɔlid]['fæbrik]单（素色织物）obsolete ['ɔbsəli:t, ,ɔbsə'li:t]过时的，老式的cross dyeing [krɔ:s]交染tweel[twi:l]斜纹generic [dʒi'nerik]类属的polychromatic dyeing [,pɔlikrəu'mætik]多色染色flow-form method [fləu] [fɔ:m]['meθəd]流水法dye-weave method [wi:v]染织法product dyeing ['prɔdəkt, -ʌkt]成品染色paddle dyeing ['pædl]桨叶式染色couture dress [ku:'tjuə][dres]妇女时装luxury bedspreads ['lʌkʃəri, 'lʌɡʒəri]华贵床单染色机械和织物染色（Dyeing Machinery and Fabric Dyeing）batchwise dyeing system ['sistəm]间歇（分批）染色装置jigger(jig) ['dʒiɡə]卷染机beam machine 经轴染色机semi-continuous system [kən'tinjuəs]半连续装置paddingmangle (padder) ['mæŋɡl]浸轧机molten metal dyeing machine ['məultən] ['metəl]熔态金属染色机thermosol range ['θə:məusɔl] [reindʒ]热溶染色联合机pressure dyeing machine ['preʃə]高压染色机milling ['miliŋ]缩绒batching roller ['bætʃiŋ]['rəulə]卷布辊draw roller [drɔ:]导布辊，导布罗拉side guiding roller 侧边导布辊clockwise ['klɔkwaiz]顺时针的backward and forward ['bækwəd]逆时针的extract [ik'strækt, 'ekstrækt]炸出hooded winch dyeing machine ['hudid][wintʃ]加罩绞盘染色机infra-red ['inflə]红外线exchangeable reaction [iks'tʃeindʒəbl][ri'ækʃən, ri:-]可交换反应的radiator ['reidieitə]辐射器tailing ['teiliŋ]头尾色差listing ['listiŋ]边色深浅yardage ['jɑ:didʒ]尺码streakiness ['stri:kinis]条痕，条花two-sideness['stri:kinis]阴阳面reproducibility [riprə,dju:sə'biliti]重现性以上查阅人：张坤。
布料印染全过程及其英语表达
布料印染全过程及其英语表达ingrey preparing坯布准备）→joining(缝头）→singeing(烧毛）→desizing(退浆）→scouring(精练）→b leaching (漂白）→mercerizing(丝光）→presetting(预定型）→dyeing(染色）/printing（印花）→aft er finishing(后整理）→inspecting(检验）→packing(包装) →delivery(交货）→beaker-test(B/T，染色打样）→drawing(描稿）→engraving(制版）（印花前的工程）印染行业颜色英语翻译增白：WHITE / SNOW WHITE 特黑：BLACK / JET BLACK 奶白：IVORY/ECRU/OFF WHITE/CREAM 大红：RED 紫红：BORDEAUX/WINE 紫色：BURGUNDY/PLUM/VIOLET/PURPLE 绿色：GREEN 灰色：G REY 玉色：OYSTER/PEACH 黄色：YELLOW 卡其：KAHKI 雪青：LILAC 古铜色：BROWN 梅红：FUS CHIA 墨绿：CHARCOAL 豆绿：OLIVE 藏青：NAVY/BLUE 天蓝：SKY BLUE 粉红：PINK 米色：BEIG E 橘黄：ORANGE 驼色：CAMELred 红色vermeil, ponceau 朱红pink; soft red; rose bloom 粉红色plum; crimson ;梅红rose 玫瑰红peach blossom;桃红cherry 樱桃红salmon pink 桔红色garnet石榴红purplish red;date red 枣红色lotus red 莲红色fuchsia pink 浅莲红bean red 豆红capsicum red辣椒红Kaoliang red 高梁红poppy red 芙蓉红lake; rou ge red胭脂红salmon 鲑鱼红hawksbill turtle red 玳瑁红cadmium orange 海螺红ruby red 宝石红agate red 玛瑙红coral珊瑚红bronze red金红iron oxide red铁红rust red铁锈红chrome red铬红brick re d砖红reddle 土红purplish red; wine red;紫红（酒红）prune; mulberry深紫红henna棕红dark red; dull re d暗红fresh red; blood red; bright red鲜红scarlet绯红silver pink米红deep red深红light red 淡红墨绛红purple black 暗绛红purple deep 浅绛红purple light橙色orange 黄色yellow 深桔黄deep orange 浅桔黄light orange; clear orange 柠檬黄lemon yellow;lemon 玉米黄maize 橄榄黄olive yellow 稻草黄straw yellow 芥末黄mustard 杏黄broze yellow 蛋黄york yellow; egg yellow 藤黄rattan yellow 象牙黄nude 日光黄sunny yellow 土黄earth yellow ;yellowish brown; 砂黄sand yellow 金黄golden yellow;gold 深黄deep yellow 棕黄tan 青黄bluish yellow 灰黄sallow; grey yello w 米黄cream 嫩黄yellow cream 鲜黄cadmium yellow 鹅黄light yellow 中黄midium yellow 浅黄light yel low ,pale yellow; buff 淡黄primrose; jasmine绿色green 豆绿pea green;bean green 浅豆绿light bean green; 橄榄绿olive green;olive 茶绿tea green; plantation 葱绿onion green; 苹果绿apple green 森林绿forest green 苔藓绿moss green 草地绿grass gre en 灰湖绿agate green 水晶绿crystal 玉绿jade green 石绿mineral green 松石绿spearmint ; viridis 孔雀绿peacock green 墨绿green black ;jasper 墨玉绿emerald black 深绿petrol ;bottle green;Chinese green 暗绿deep green青绿dark green 碧绿azure green; viridity 蓝绿blue green 黄绿yellow green 灰绿grey green; 褐绿breen 中绿medium green;golf green 浅绿light green 淡绿pale green靛青ingigo 蓝色blue 天蓝;蔚蓝sky blue ; azure 月光蓝moon blue 海洋蓝ocean blue 海蓝sea blue 湖蓝acid blue 深湖蓝vivid blue 中湖蓝bright blue 冰雪蓝ice-snow blue 孔雀蓝peacock blue宝石蓝sapphire;jewelry blue 粉末蓝powder blue 藏蓝purplish blue ;navy 海军蓝navy blue 宝蓝royal blu e 墨蓝blue black 紫蓝purplish blue 浅紫蓝dutch blue青蓝ultramarine 深灰蓝blue ashes 深蓝dark blue ; deep blue 鲜蓝clear blue 中蓝medium blue 浅蓝light blue 淡蓝pale blue ;baby blue紫色purple ;violet 紫罗兰色violet 紫水晶色amethyst 葡萄紫grape 茄皮紫wineberry;aubergine玫瑰紫rose violet 丁香紫lilac 墨紫violet black 绛紫dark reddish purple 暗紫violet deep;dull purple乌紫raisin 蓝紫royal purple 鲜紫violet light 深紫modena 浅紫grey violet 淡紫pale purple ;lavender淡白紫violet ash青莲heliotrope 雪青lilac黑色black 炭黑carbon black; charcoal black 暗黑pitch-black ; pitch-dark 漆黑dull black白色white象牙白ivory white 牡蛎白oyster white 珍珠白pearl white 玉石白jade white 银白silver white 羊毛白wool white 乳白milky white 米白off-white; shell 雪白snow-white 灰白greyish white 纯白pure white本白raw white ;off white 粉红白pinky white 浅紫白lilac white灰色grey银灰色silver grey 炭灰色charcoal grey 烟灰smoky grey 雾灰misty grey 黑灰grey black金色gold 银色silver 青古铜色bronze;bronzy驼色camel ;light tan 米色beige;cream; gray sand 卡其色khaki 奶油色cream 豆沙色cameo brown 水晶色crystal 荧光色iridescent 彩虹色iris; rainbow 棕色brown 茶褐umber; auburn 淡褐light brown 咖啡coff ee 琥珀色amber。
3染整概论——染色
染料的命名
分散红 3B
实
例
还原蓝 RSN
活性红 M-3B
应 主 色 用 色 光 分 调 蓝 类 红 光 分 色 散 染 料
应 主 色标标 用 色 光准准 分 调 浓染 红 类 度法 蓝 光 还 色 原 染 料
应 主 用 色 分 调 类 红 活 色 性 染 料
双 活 性 基 团
色 光 蓝 光
纺织品的染色
应用分类
还原染料 (Vat dyes)
结构特征：① 含两个或两个以上羰基
② 不含水溶性基团
染色特点： [H] D
(不溶) 保险粉、NaOH
隐色体
(可溶)
[O]
氧化剂、H+ （不溶）
D
上染纤维
应用：纤维素纤维（主要：棉）、维纶
应用分类 还原染料 (Vat dyes)
还原蓝 BC
纺织品的染色
染料颜色
色调（hue of color）、 明度（brightness） 饱和度（degree of saturation）
纺织品的染色
染料基础知识
纺织品的染色 染料和颜料
着色剂（Colorants)）分为两类 染料（Dyes)：大多能溶于水，或可以转变成水 溶性物质，能和纤维发生物理或化学的结合而染着 在纤维上。 颜料 (Pigments)：不溶于水，对纤维无亲和力， 本身不能与纤维发生物理或化学的结合，它们对纤 维的着色需要借助粘着的方法。 以下主要介绍染料
e.g 直接翠蓝 GL
纺织品的染色
结构分类
杂 环 类 染 料
结构特征： 含N、S、O杂环 碱性染料居多， 其它各类染料中也有，分布广。 e.g. 阳离子翠兰GB
染整概论
前言染整（dyeing and finishing）：对纺织材料(纤维、纱线和织物)进行以化学处理为主的工艺过程，通常也称为印染。
染整同纺纱、机织或针织生产一起，形成纺织物生产的全过程。
染整包括前处理、染色、印花和整理。
纺织品的染整加工是借助各种机械设备，通过化学的或物理化学的方法，对纺织品进行处理的过程，主要内容包括前处理、染色、印花和整理。
通过染整加工，可以改善纺织品的外观和服用性能，或赋予纺织品特殊功能，提高纺织品的附加值，满足对纺织品性能的不同要求。
前处理（预处理亦称练漂）：采用化学方法去除织物上的各种杂质，改善织物的服用性能，并为染色、印花和整理等后续加工提供合格的半制品。
使后续的染色、印花、整理加工得以顺利进行，获得预期的加工效果；染色：染料与纤维发生物理的或化学的结合，使纺织品获得鲜艳、均匀和坚牢的色泽；印花：用染料或颜料在纺织品上获得各色花纹图案；整理：根据纤维的特性，通过化学或物理化学的作用，改进纺织品的外观和形态稳定性，提高纺织品的服用性能或赋予纺织品阻燃、拒水拒油、抗静电等特殊功能。
第一章绪论一、中国古代印染工艺的发展我国古代劳动人民很早就利用矿物、植物对纺织品进行染色，并在长期的生产实践中，掌握了各类染料的提取，染色等工艺技术，生产出五彩缤纷的纺织品。
中国古代印染工艺的发展过程，大致可分三个转变：古代染色的染料，从天然矿物到植物染料的转变（缘于获取难易程度和染色牢度）；从染原色到套色的转变；从在织物上画花、缀花、绣花、提花到手工印花的转变（缬与凸版印花技术为代表）。
至1834年法国的佩罗印花机发明以前，我国一直拥有世界上最发达的手工印染技术。
中国古代经典印花技术——“三缬”夹缬：夹缬是一种镂空型双面防染印花技术。
它是用木板镂刻成两块相同纹样的镂空花版, 然后将麻、丝织物等对折,夹在两块花版中间,用绳捆紧,将染料注入花版空隙。
干后，拆开花版，织物上便印出对称的彩色图案。
用这种方法生产的印花布称作“夹缬”。
染整专业英语课堂练习.doc
What is fibreFibres are the foundation of textile industry. All textiles are made of fibres. All of the production flows and formulae in textiles wet proceccing stages including pre-treatment, dyeing, printing and final finishing are designed and conducted on the basis of the properties of the fibres from which the textiles are made. So it is necessary for us to review the fibre's definition and properties before we discuss the wet treatment of textiles.What is a fibre? Fibre is the smallest visible unit of matter that has a high length to diameter ratio, fineness and flexibility.The above definition for textile fibres is very broad. So many things are demanded of fibres in many different uses. However, some characteristics can be identified which all textile fibres must have if they are to be commercially successful: a high length to diameter ratio, strength, extensibility and elasticity, resistance to chemicals, heat and sunlight, and ability to take colour.Fibers are usually grouped in order to research or discuss or apply them conventiently. Most of fibres are polymer. Besed on their chemical composition, fibres can be classified into many groups such as cellulosic fibre, protein fibre, viscose fibre, polyamide fibre, polyester fibre and polycrylic fibre, etc.. But the most convenient grouping divides them into two basic groups accouding to their origins: i.e. natural and man-made fibres. Natural fibres refer to all fibers that occur in fibre form in nature, including cotton ,linen, wool, silk, and so on, which have been known and used for thousands of years. As natural fibres cannot meet the requirement of people, manypolymers that do not naturally exist in the form of fibre have been processed into the fibre form, usually by forcing the viscous polymers through a spinneret that consists of a series of tiny holes arranged in a circle, and used as fibres. These products are known as man-made fibres.The two basic groups can then be further subdivided. The natural fibres can be subdivided into the three types of cellulosic, protein and mineral fibres according to their origins. Man・made fibres are usually subdivided into four groups: regenerated, modified, synthetic and mineral fibres, according to their polymer origins.1.fibre [laibg]几纤维，纤维制品2.yam [jam] n.纱，纱线3.fabric [ 'febrik] n.织物，布，织品4.pre-treatment [ ^prii-ktriztmont] n.前处理5.dyeing [ 'daiiij] n.染色，染色工艺，染色工程6.printing [ 'printig ] n.印花，印花工艺7.finishing n.后整理，织物整理31.polymer [ r poUmo] n-聚合物32.cellulosic [ k selju1lausik] adj.纤维素的33.protein [^rautijn] n.蛋白质adj.蛋白质的34.viscose [ 1visk^us] n.粘胶液，粘胶纤维35.polyamide [ poli'aemaid ] n.聚酰胺36.polyester [ 'poliesta] n.聚酯37.polyciylic [Rlikaiklik] n.聚丙烯酸化合物，膳纶38.cotton [ 'kotn] n.棉，棉花，棉线39・Unen flinin] n.亚麻，亚麻纺织品adj.亚麻的，亚麻布的44.regenerate [rfgegit] vt.使新生vi.新生，再生adj.新生的，更新的45.modified ['modifaid] adj.改性的，改良的,改进的46.synthetic [ sin'Oetik] adj.合成的，人造的2 Natural fibresFiber is the basic unit of fabric .The textile fibers many be divided into two major groups, namely, (a)natural fibers and(b) mam made fibers.The chief natural fibers now in use are cotton, linen, wool and silk. They vary considerably as regards their properties and their production.CottonCotton is the most important and widely used vegetable fiber. It is obtained from the cotton plant which grows in warm moist climates and in most parts of the world. In 1980 the leading producing countries are America, Russia ,China, India and Pakistan. Cotton fibers are composed largely of cellulose. Besides cellulose , raw cotton contains a number of other substances, notably waxes, pectic products and mineral substances. These are quite small in amount, say, not more than 4 percent together. They are referred to as impurities by the manufacturer of cotton goods. Generally these are objectionable effects and would make it difficult to colour and finish cotton fabrics satisfactorily, so it is always a first step in the art of dyeing and finishing to purify the cotton as completely as possible.It is used for apparel fabrics, for household or domestic goods, and for industrial applications. Its ability to accept color and finishes, combined with its comfort, make it a pleasant choice for the fashion-minded consumer. Cotton is also extensively used in blends with made fibers to achieve new combinations of properties that are not available in the fibers separately.Cotton has some disadvantages, too. It creases and wrinkles easily. It may be weakened by mildew and mold unless treated to resist them. It is readily attacked by acid reagents and substances, and it is slowly affected by sunlight,causing yellowingand fiber degradation.LinenAll vegetable fibers other than cotto—the only unicellular vegetable fiber—are multicellular. The best known and most abundantly used multicellular fiber is linen. There are several others such as jute, ramieLinen fibers resemble cotton in so far as they consist of cellulose but have a lower cellulose content. On an average the linen fibers contain only about 75 percent of pure cellulose, the remaining matter being a gummy pectic substance. The surface of each fiber is smooth and this helps to give linen materials their characteristic high luster. In many of its chemical properties linen closely resembles cotton. Thus, it is resistant to alkalies and is easily deteriorated by acids. Linen is mainly used in the manufacture of sail cloth, tent fabric, sewing threads, fishing lines, table-cloth and sheets.Lesson 3 Wool and silkWool is the animal fiber of outstanding importance. It is obtained by shearing the fibrous covering of sheep and is produced in almost all parts of the world. When wool is shorn from a living sheep it is called fleece or clip wool.Chemically wool consists of a complex protein , a substance which is composed of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen and sulphur. It differs from cellulose in containing nitrogen and sulphur, and it is the presence of these two additional elements in the wool molecule which gives wool fibers properties profoundly different from those of the vegetable fibers. Wool fiber has a density of 1.32, which makes it slightly lighter than cotton. Wool and other hair fibers have an elastic recovery of 99% from 2% and 60% from 35% extension, respectively. This makes the wool fibers highly resilient. In other words, wool fibers have a tendency to return completely to their original shape after small deformations, which is a great importance.Wool has several disadvantages: it is very sensitive to alkaline substances; it is readily attacked by moths unless treated to resist them; it is difficult to bleach; and it felts easily.SilkSilk is the material extruded from glands in the body of the silkworm in spinning its cocoon or web. It is the only natural fiber that occurs in the form of a line continuous filament.Silk is warm and pleasant to the touch and is generally considered comfortable to wear. It is readily dyeable with a variety of dyes and has an affinity for metallic salts.Silk is essentially used in luxury goods. It has been able to withstand competitionfrom synthetic fibers in many high-quality textile applications because of its excellent dyeing characteristics, high moisture and light absorbency, and heat-preserving properly.Lesson four Man-Made FibersNatural fibers are already in fiber form as harvested and are ready for the start of yarn spinning operations. However, man-made fibers start out as plastic that first be converted into fiber form. Most man-made fibers are formed by forcing a viscous chemical substance through a spinneret which consists of a series of tiny holes arranged in a circle. The streams emerging from the holes are then hardened or solidified to form filaments. The process of extrusion and hardening is called spinning, not to be confused with the yarn forming operation of the same name.The man-made fibers are divided into two broad categories:(a)regenerated fibers and (b)synthetic fibers. The regenerated fibers are those in which the fiber-forming material is of natural origin; In second class of fibers is made by the chemical synthesis of simple polymer-forming materials.Regenerated FibersThe regenerated cellulosic fibers include viscose, Cuprammonium,and acetate rayons. These three forms of rayon together constitute the bulk of world production having a natural polymer(cellulose)base as raw material. Of these, viscose rayon is comparatively easier to produce and considered as the chief rayon of the group Viscose Rayon Viscose rayon has many properties in common with cotton. But it is necessary to point out at least two important differences which are important from the viewpoint of textile finishing. Viscose rayon fibers consist of cellulose somewhat looser or more opened-up than that of cotton. Viscose rayon absorbs water more freely and is more receptive towards dyes. In bleaching and other treatments whereovertreatment can result in fiber damage, viscose rayon becomes degraded more rapidly than does cotton. The second difference between viscose rayon and cotton fibers is that the viscose rayon fibers are so much smoother. This not only contributes to their luster but it reduces the adhesion which is desired in yams and fabrics to give stability of shape and size.Synthetic fibersThe first synthetic fibre is nylon(one of polyamide fibres) that was commercially produced in United State in 1939・ The main kinds of the synthetic fibres include: polyamide, polyester and polycrylic fibres,which are used in textile industry widely.1 polyamide fibresNylon filaments are smooth and shiny. When viewed in cross-section, nylon is usually perfectly round・It is highly resistant to alkalis and relatively less resistant to acid・ Nylon is very strong, quite-drying fibre with high wet strength and has excellent elasticity. Nylon has a lower specific gravity than other fibres. These properties make them very suitable for stockings, parachute fabrics, shirts, underwear, carpet and reinforcement of rubber in tyres and belts・ Nylon blends well with other fibres and adds strength to such blends. Nylon has low absorbency, which makes it quick drying・ In recent years many modified nylon fibres have been developed and produced to meet some particular requirements.Pre-treatment Processes of TextilesLesson5Before the pretreatment of fabric with chemical solutions, it is necessary to prepare the fabric・ The preparation processes of fabric for the wet treatment include examining of gray goods, cloth turning(in batches, in boxes),stamping or marking, sewing，singeing, etc. These preparation processes are respectively described as follows.1・ Examining for gray goodsEach piece of gray goods on entering the finishing works is examined in the gray room for fault weaving, dirt, damages and other defects.2・ Cloth turningThe trait of production of dyeing and finishing plant is of large batch and multi-items of products processing・To manage conveniently and avoid confusion, the same specification，s gray goods that is often processed in the same techniques is classified as one kind ,and in batches and in boxes・3.Marking /stampingAfter examining being passing, two ends of each box of gray goods must be stamped or marked with distinctive letter and number so that one can distinguish and manage them and not confuse the technique with different kinds of gray goods・4.SewingMost of processing in dyeing and finishing plant is continuous. The length of the gray cloth from the loom is commonly 30-120m or so, therefore is suitablenumber of pieces are then sewn end to end so as to make a continuous length・5・ SingeingBefore a cloth can either dyed, printed, or conditioned with special finished, it must go through a series of preliminary treatments・ Singeing is the operation of preparations before wet chemical processes, or the first one of the preparatory processes necessary for dyeing or printing・DesizingMost textile materials and fabrics require pretreatments before they can be dyed and finished・ The preparatory treatments depend on the type of fibre in the material and particular dyeing and finishing treatments that are to be done. Preparatory treatments can be done on material from fibre to yarn, fabric, or garments・Most often the preparatory treatment are done on the material in fabric form・Fabric which have been prepared for dying and finishing must have sufficient absorbency and whiteness・If singeing can be considered as the last operation of preparations before chemical processes, desizing is the first one of preparatory processes necessary for dyeing and printing・Sizing materials are applied to yarns, particularly warpyarn, before they are woven into cloth. These form a protective coating over the yarns and keep them from chafing or breaking during weaving・ It is usually not necessary to apply sizing for yarns that used in knitting.Lesson 6 ScouringAll gray goods must be cleaned and made ready the acceptance of the finish. Gray goods contains a warp sizing, which makes the fabric stiff can interferes with the absorption of liquids. The fabric must be desized before further finishing can be done. Also, fabrics are often soiled during weaving and must be cleaned for that reason. Warp sizing, dirt, oil spots and natural impurities have always been removed by a washing process…degumming of silk, kier boiling of cotton, and scouring of wool.Scouring is a cleaning process used to remove impurities on fibres, yarns and cloth. It is the easiest to perform at the cloth stage. Concretely, souring is an operation in which the quantity of protein, pectin, ash, and wax in the fibre in the fibre is reduced to an amount which will not seriously interfere with subsequent dyeing; it is necessary step before bleaching and of itself renders the fabric considerably whiter. The specific scouring procedures, chemicals, temperature and time vary with the type of fibre, yarn and cloth construction. Impurities such as lubricants, dirt and other natural materials ,water-soluble sizes, antistatic agents are removed in scouring.Scouring is accomplished primarily by means of hot alkaline solutions. The severity of the treatment depends upon the quality of fabric being processed, the processing equipment, and the nature of the end product. In the scouring process the natural impurities are either soluble in the hot alkali or rendered removable bydecomposition saponification or emulsification.There are two types of scouring: kiering and continuous steaming. The latter is at present used more extensively.Kiering is carried out by means of a kier. The kier is a steel or iron boiler capable of holding 3-5 ton of cloth. The goods are run into the kier in a moist condition ane evenly packed. When kier is filled , the lid is then closed down ,the prepared scouring liquor run in and the heating started.Steaming is a key technique constituting an important part of a continuous system of scouring and bleaching. It consists mainly of three processes: steeping and pressing of the caustic soda solution , steaming , washing .The effectiveness of the scour may be assessed by determination of residual wax content, absorbency and weight loss.Cotton contains natural impurities which must be removed in scouring and bleaching.A special scouring process used to the natural gum, sericin, from silk, is called degumming. The silk is washed in hot soapy water, usually under alkaline conditions.After being scoured, the fabric is ready for next operation -bleaching.Lesson 7 BleachingCellulose and most other fibre-forming polymers are white in their natural state, However, impurities in fibres may absorb light causing the fibres to have a creamy, yellowish, or dull appearance. Cotton fibres usually require bleaching unless the material will be dyed very dark or dull shades. Synthetic fibres are often very white as supplied by the fibre producer but may require bleaching in some case. The goal of bleaching in the manufacturing process is to decolorize the impurities which mask the natural whiteness of fibres so as to obtain white cloth or to prepare the cloth for further finishing processes such as dyeing or printing and increase the ability of thefabric to absorb dyestuffs uniformly.Bleaching follows scouring in the continuous scouring and bleaching system. The essential feature of the scouring is that it has removed most of the impurities, and those that are left, including the natural coloring matters, can only be destroyed by a bleaching treatment which follows. Bleaching is therefore a final treatment to complete the purification, which at the same time ensure the production of a good white color Bleaching is a chemical processes used to eliminate unwanted coloring matter from fibres, yam or cloth. Bleaching is carried out in the yarn as well as cloth stage of manufacturing. Finished products are bleached by the consumer to maintain the whiteness or brightness of items during use and care.Several different kinds of chemicals are used in bleaching agents, the particular one selected depends on the type of fibre present in the yarn, cloth or finished product. Common bleaching agents are dydrogen peroxide, sodium hypochlorite, sodium chlorite and sodium perborate. In manufacturing processes, bleaching may be carriedout in a continuous or batch process. The choice of the particular process used is generally based on cost consideration. Hydrogen peroxide is the most widely used commercial bleaching agent.Fabrics may be bleached in rope or open-width form. In rope bleaching the fabric is pulled together to form somewhat circular mass, which is loose enough for penetration and resembles a large rope; in open-width form the fabric is flat and smooth under tension.Generally , several steps are involved in the bleaching process:(1)the cloth is saturated with the bleaching agent;(2)the temperature is raised to that recommended for the particular fibre or blendand held for the time needed to complete the bleaching action.(3)the cloth is thoroughly washed and dried. The bleaching agent temperatureand time must be carefully controlled to avoid damage to the fibre ,or severelosses in strength may occur.The bleached cloth is also called as semi-finished goods and ready for dyeding and printing.Lesson 8 MercerizingThe process of treating cotton with a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide is called mercerization. Mercerizing is a chemical finish applied to cellulosic fibre, especially cotton.Treatment of cotton with alkali has many beneficial effects including: added luster to fabrics (if done under tension) and softness, increased strength, improved affinity for dyes and dyeability of immature fibres and got high water sorption.The mercerization process causes the cotton fibres to swell laterally and shrinklongitudinally. And the natural twist of cotton fibre is largely removed. This produces a round cross section which reflects light to give the improvement in luster .Increased strength is an important value from mercerization.Mercerization may be done either before or after the fabric is scoured and bleached. If done on greige goods, the concentration of the caustic soda formation is relatively easy to control. When mercerization is done on wet fabric ,dilution of the caustic soda formulation by water in the entering fabric can make control of concentration difficult. The water content of wet fabric entering the mercerization process must be uniform to prevent nonuniform pickup of the caustic soda solution by the fabric.Mercerization of fabric is usually done in a continuous process. Fabric mercerization is done on a frame that contains mangles for saturating the cloth, a tenter frame for tensioning the fabric both crosswise and lengthwise while wet, and boxes for washing, neutralizing with dilute sulfuric acid, scouring and rinsing.The changes that occur in cotton upon mercerization depend on the concentration of caustic soda used, temperature of treatment , and whether or not the material is under tension during treatment. In the mercerizing process, yarn or cloth is treated under tension at room temperature with a sodium hydroxide solution that may vary in strength from 15 to 30 percent. The concentration of sodium hydroxide and the length of treatment vary depending on the particular properties to be achieved and whether it is yarn or cloth that is being processed. All properties are not improved equally at one level of caustic treatment .Full mercerization of cotton is usually donewith 20%-25% caustic soda solution. If improved luster is the goal, the sodium hydroxide concentration is kept at a high level. If improved luster is the goal, the sodium hydroxide concentration is kept at a high level. Some of the benefits of mercerization, for example, improvement of moisture adsorption, especially improvement in dyeability of immature fibre, are obtained with lower concentration of caustic soda."'Mercerized cotton^^ on a label is associated with luster. Cotton is mercerized for luster in both yam and fabric forms. Yarn mercerization is also a continuous process in which the yarn under tension passes from a yam beam through a series of boxes with guide rolls and squeeze rolls, through a boil -out wash, and a final wash.Lesson 9 Dyeing of textilesColour can pleasure us . The pleasure derived from imparting colour to clothing has existed since the time the earliest civilization. A world of fashion without colour is impossible to imagine. Textiles are coloured also for functional reasons, such as military camouflage and fluorescent jackets for road repair workers. Life would be more hazardous and certainly dull if textiles were only used in their natural colors.Textile's colour is normolly obtained by applying a colorant to the textile substrate. There are two ways of adding colour to a textile substrate: i.e. dyeing and printing. Printing adds colour to the substrate locally; whereas dyeing completely covers the substrate with colour ,and usually with the intension of obtaining an even colour distribution throughout the substrate. Colorants used for dyeing can be classified as dyes or pigments. Dyes are water soluble and have substantivity(affinity)for fibresand can be absorbed into the fibres. Pigments are not water soluble and posses no specific attraction for any particular fibre type. Pigments usually adhere to the surface of the fibre. Dyes are used far more widely and frequently than pigments in the textile dyeing process.In order to meet the aesthetic and application requirements of consumers, the quality of dyed textiles must be considered. This quality is usually assessed through the measurement of the colour's hue, depth, brightness, uniformity, fastness, and other quality properties. Colour fastness is defined as the ability of the shade to withstand external agencies without loss or change in colour. Such external agencies would include washing, drying cleaning, rubbing, perspiration, heat and light. Color fastness is influenced by the factors including dye, fibre, dyeing process and dyeing depth. The tests for colour measurement are proposed and standardized by national or international organizations.Dyeing of textile is achieved by transferring bye molecules from a medium(usually water) in which the dye is dissolved or dispersed onto the textile fibres. The dyeing can be undertaken either as a batch (or exhaustion) process or a continuous technique.Dyeing can be carried out on the textile when it is in a number of different physical form, including loose stock, tow, tops, yarn, piece and garment. These textiles are dyed using the batch or continuous dyeing method, or by the use of a combination of themDyes are also grouped by their application method. Based their applicationmethods, dyes are essentially divided into twelve types, which are acid ,azoic, basic, direct, disperse, mordant, natural, pigment,reactive, solvent, sulphur and vat dyes.Lesson 10 Introduction to printingThe objective of printing is to produce coloured designs on textile. These designs are of well defined boundaries made by the artistic arrangement of motif or motifs in one or more colors. In other words, dyes or pigments must be applied in predetermined pattern to the textile substrate. So printing can define as the laocalized application of dye or pigment to a textile substrate to generate a design. The application of a design to fabric by the use of dyes, or pigments may be effected by many methods; but printing is the most convenient, Frer-hand painting of designs on fabrics is the oldest technique for applying ornament, but hand painting is a time-consuming procedure. Furthermore, it does not always result in a uniform repeat of a motif that is used more than once. However, in printing it is easy to repeat the design and the fabric with the design can be produced in a large amount .For example, if we use block-printing technique to apply a design on a fabric, we only need to transfer the design to a wood or metal flat surface that can be coated with a dye or pigment and then stamped onto the fabric. The same design can be repeated many times simply by pressing the decorated surface against the fabric.The dyes used in printing are the same as that in dyeing, such as reactive and insoluble azoic dyes for cellulosic fibre and disperse dyes for polyester, and the forces by which the dyes are linked with the fibre are the same in dyeing and printing. But between dyeing and printing there are still some differences. The basic operations of printing include: dye is firstly dissolved and pasted with a small quantity of water and a suitable thickening agent; then applied to fabric and dried immediately; and then fixed on the fabric by steaming or heating, finally soaped and washed with water.Over many centuries, a variety of techniques for printing designs have evolved, such as block printing, mordant printing, resist printing, screen printing, roller printing, transfer printing, photographic printing, etc. Printing can be applied to warp yarns, fabrics, or apparel pieces. Most textiles are printed in the fabric form. Printed patterns may vary from simple geometric designs in a single colour to very complex designs in up to 20 or more colours. These printing techniques can be briefly reviewed from two aspects: printing mothed and printing style/The printing methods used most frequently by today's printers are engraved roller printing, screen printing and transfer printing, which are classified on the basis of the types of printing machines.Lesson 11 Introduction to finishingTextile finishing, which is also called final finishing, covers an extremely wide range of activities which are performed on the bleached, dyed and printed textiles before they are put on the market. The general aim of the textile finishing is to perfect the textile goods and render them fit for their end uses. Textile finishing gives many advantages to textiles that are intended to accomplish different purpose. For example, a fabric may be bleached to enhance whiteness and then given a durable press finish to make it resist wrinkling. Few fabrics are manufactured that do not undergo some type of finish. The function of the textile finishing may be divided into the following types.To standardize textile goods. Textiles such as fabrics sold on market should have standard width ,standard shrinkage, etc. to fit for their end uses. These standard properties are achieved by stentering, stentering of weft, sanforizing and other finishing processes.To improve the handle and appearance of the fabrics, which are achieved by stiffening , softening, calendaring, or raising, etc.To impart new functional properties to the fabric ,such as durable press finish, fire retardant finish, soil release finish, etc.Hence, finishing is essential for a textile good before it is put on the market.According to the degree of the finishing effects in fabric remaining during subsequent washing and usage the finishing techniques may fall into three types: Temporary finish. The finishing effects are not stable and disappear during subsequent washing and usagePermanent finish. If the finishing effects on the fabric do not disappear and。
染整概论3
疏水键 N H
s s
二硫键 CH2 NH3
o
氢键
o
H
c
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o c
o c o
离子键
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蛋白质性质
﹡蛋白质两性性质：
OHOH-
H+3N-P-COOH
H+
H2N-P-COOH H+3N-P-COO-
H+
H2N-P-COO-
等电点：蛋白质分子上正、负电荷数量相等时溶液的pH值， 不会向电极移动。羊毛的~: 4.2-4.8, 桑蚕丝的~：3.5-5.2。等电 点时纤维溶胀、溶解度最低。 低pH值时： pH内>pH外 高pH值时： pH内<pH外
1891年Cross Bevan found NaOH CS2 acid
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粘胶纤维形态结构和性能
★特点：*人造纤维，形态与纺丝成形方法 有关。
*纤维较纯净，在丝生产中已除杂。
*皮芯结构，皮层紧密取向，阻碍染料 进入，芯层结构松，强度低。
★附注：通过制浆、纺丝、拉伸方法改变， 可得人造纤维素其他纤维：富强纤维、 Tencil纤维、modal纤维，这些新型纤维目 前正开发应用。
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Protein 反应基团
R1
CH H2N C O NH CH R2
O
C NH
R3
CH C O NH CH R4 CH Rx
COOH
R1 H 2N CH COOH 氨基酸 + H 2N
R2 CH COOH H 2N
R2 CH C
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Continuous dyeing 连续式染色
Fixation 固色
Language point 语法点
• Derive from… 从…获得
• Derive vt.取得；追溯起源
•
vi.(from)起源，衍生
• derive great pleasure from one's studies
• 从学习中获得极大乐趣
For dyers this application classification is far more important than others
对染色者而言，按应用分类远比其他分类重要
An application class groups together dyes with similar application properties
Dyes 染料 = Organic compounds 有机合成物
Chromophore group 发色团 Auxochrome group 助色团 Solubilizing group 水溶性基团
Organic compounds 有机合成物
• Chromophore group 发色团 • 1. conjugated unsaturated system
Pigments 干粉颜料
Not water soluble 非水溶性 Possess no specific attraction for any particular fibre type 无特殊纤维吸附力
Color fastness 染色牢度
quality
Measurement 测量
hue 色彩 Depth 色泽浓度 Brightness 亮度 Uniformity 均匀度 Fastness 牢度
Chapter 3 dyeing of textiles 织物染色
3.1 introduction to dyeing 染色简介
3.1 introduction to dyeing 染色简介
• Colorants 染色剂
• Color fastness 染色牢度
• Dyeing process 染色工序 →Batch dyeing process 间歇式染色 →Continuous dyeing 连续式染色
将织物浸渍适量的染液
• Step 2: pad it through a foulard to facilitate the penetration of the dye into the fabric fibre and eliminate the excess dye solution from the fibre
吸收
which is designed to be absorbed or absorbed
反应
沉积
by, made to react with, or deposited within a
基底
赋予
substrate in order to impart color to that
耐久度
substrate with some degree of permanence.
Printing adds color to the substrate locally 局部染色
dyeing
以…为目的
dyeing completely covers the substrate with color
全部染色
With the intention of obtaining an even color distribution throughout the substrate
Textile’s color
获得
Textile’s color is normally obtained by applying a colorant to the textile substrate.
着色剂
基底
1. Dyeing 染色 2. Printing 印花
Dyeing 染色
Printing
• Step 2：dye molecules diffuse through the fibre due to the high surface concentration of dye 由于纤维表面染料浓度较高而扩散进入纤维内部
• Step 3：dye molecules are fixed on the fibre by intermolecular force or chemical bond
Language point 语法点
• In relation to 根据，有关
• I have a lot to say in relation to that affair. 关于那件事,我有好多话要说。
Review 复习
• Colorants
• 染色剂
• Color fastness
• 染色牢度
Color fastness 染色牢度
色度
承受
The ability of the shade to withstand external agencies without loss or change in color
机构，作用
染色的织物在外界作用下，不褪色或不变色的能力
washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, perspiration,
History
• Before 1856 • Natural vegetables, animals and mineral materials
• 1856
• William Perkin discovered the first synthetic dye
• Today
• More than 4000 different dyes
Language point 语法点
• This quality is usually assessed through… • Assess vt.对…进行估价；评价，评论 • Assessment n. 评价，评估 • I'd assess your chances as extremely low. • 我估计你成功的机会极微. • What is your assessment of the situation? • 你对这一情况有什麽看法?
• Batch dyeing process
• 间歇式染色
• Continuous dyeing
• 连续式染色
• Obtain
• 获得
• Substrate
• 基底
• With the intention of
• 以…为目的
• Fixation
• 固色
• Derive from…
• 从…获得
• Impart
Depend on 根据
ionic character 离子性质 chemical type 化学种类 application method 应用方式
Different kinds of dyes
ionic character 离子性质
Reflects solubility in water 体现在水溶性上
• 赋予，给予
• Assessment
• 评价，评估
Classification of dyes 染料分类
Dye 染料
着色剂
可溶的
A colorant, usually organic, soluble or
分散
媒介
应用
dispersed in its medium of application and
• Thousands of English words derive from Latin.
• 英语中有成千上万的词源自拉丁文.
Language point 语法点
• Imparting color to clothing • Impart vt. 赋予，给予 • impart a subtle flavor; • 加少许调料; • impart some advice. • 给予一些建议 • A teacher's aim is to impart knowledge. • 教师的作用是传授知识。
Heat, light…
Dyeing process 染色工序
Dyeing of textiles 织物染色
染料
Transfer dye molecules from a medium (usually water) in which the dye is dissolved or dispersed onto the textile fibres.
Organic compounds 有机合成物
• Solubilizing group 水溶性基团 • 1. include ionic groups and polar
nonionic groups • 包含离子团和极性非离子团 • 2. impart water solubility to the dyes • 赋予染料水溶解性
分散
• Batch dyeing process 间歇式染色 • Continuous dyeing 连续式染色
Batch dyeing process 间歇式染色
• Step 1：dye molecules are first attracted to the fibre surface 染料分子吸附纤维表面
通过分子间力或化学键固着在纤维上
Batch dyeing process 间歇式染色
The dye in the
liquor 溶液内染料
The dye in the