ASTM D1683-04 seam strength

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Designation:D1683–04

StandardTestMethodfor

FailureinSewnSeamsofWovenApparelFabrics1

ThisstandardisissuedundertheﬁxeddesignationD1683;thenumberimmediatelyfollowingthedesignationindicatestheyearoforiginaladoptionor,inthecaseofrevision,theyearoflastrevision.Anumberinparenthesesindicatestheyearoflastreapproval.Asuperscriptepsilon(e)indicatesaneditorialchangesincethelastrevisionorreapproval.

1.Scope

1.1Thistestmethodmeasuresthesewnseamstrengthin

wovenfabricsbyapplyingaforceperpendiculartothesewn

seams.

NOTE1—ThegrabtestprocedureinTestMethodD5034shallbeusedtodetermineanycharacteristicinfabricthatcanaffectthemeasurementofsewnseamstrength.

1.1.1Thistestmethodisapplicabletosewnseamsobtained

fromapreviouslysewnarticleorseamssewnwithfabric

samplesusingeitheraspeciﬁcseamassembly(seeTable1),or

productionseamassemblies.

1.2Thistestmethodisusedwhenabreakingforceto

rupture,aminimumelongation,orbotharerequiredto

determinethesewnseamstrength,seamslippage,orseam

integrityofaparticularfabricforaspeciﬁedenduse.

NOTE2—ThistestmethodisusedinconjunctionwithTestMethodD5034,whichisusedtomeasurebreakingforceandelongationoftextilefabrics.Sewnseamsinwovenfabricscanfailduetorupture,slippage,oranycombinationthereof.Rupturecanbefurthercategorizedasfailureorfabric,orsewingthread,orseamslippage.

1.3Thistestmethoddoesnotpredictactualwearperfor-

manceofaseam.

1.4Thevaluesstatedineitheracceptablemetricunits(SI)

orinotherunitsshallberegardedseparatelyasstandard.The

valuesexpressedineachsystemmaynotbeexactequivalents;

thereforeeachsystemmustbeusedindependentlyoftheother,

withoutcombiningvaluesinanyway.

1.5Thisstandarddoesnotpurporttoaddressallofthe

safetyconcerns,ifany,associatedwithitsuse.Itisthe

responsibilityoftheuserofthisstandardtoestablishappro-

priatesafetyandhealthpracticesanddeterminetheapplica-

bilityofregulatorylimitationspriortouse.

2.ReferencedDocuments

2.1ASTMStandards:2

D76SpeciﬁcationforTensileTestingMachinesforTextilesD123TerminologyRelatingtoTextiles

D434TestMethodforResistancetoSlippageofYarnsin

WovenFabricsUsingaStandardSeam

D1776PracticeforConditioningTextilesforTestingand

TestingTextiles

D5034TestMethodforBreakingStrengthandElongation

ofTextileFabrics(GrabTest)

D6193PracticeforStitchesandSeams

3.Terminology

3.1Deﬁnitions:

3.1.1needledamage,n—insewnfabrics,thepartialor

completeyarnseveranceorﬁberfusingcausedbyaneedle

passingthroughafabricduringsewing.

3.1.2seamallowance,n—insewnfabrics,thedistancefrom

theedgeofafabrictotheparallelstitchlinefurthestfromthat

edge.

3.1.3seamassembly,n—thecompositestructureobtained

whenfabric(s)arejoinedbymeansofaseam.

3.1.3.1Discussion—Aseamassemblymaybedescribedin

termsoffabricorientation,seamdirection,seamtype,stitch

type,seamallowance,sewingthreadtexnumber(s)andtype(s)

stitchdensity,stitchgage,androwsofstitching.

3.1.4seameffıciency,n—insewnfabrics,theratio,ex-

pressedasapercentage,ofthebreakingforcerequiredto

ruptureasewnseamtothatrequiredtorupturethefabric.

3.1.5seamengineering,n—insewnfabrics,theprocedures

usedtoselectaspeciﬁccombinationofsewingthread,stitch

type,seamtype,andstitchdensitytoachievethemaximum

sewnseamstrengthforaparticularfabrictype.

3.1.6seamfailure,n—insewnfabrics,thatpointatwhich

anexternalforce(1)rupturesthesewingthread,(2)ruptures

thefabric,(3)causesexcessiveyarnslippageadjacenttothe

stitches,or(4)causesanycombinationoftheseunacceptable

conditions.

3.1.6.1Discussion—Despitethelackofrupture,excessive

seamslippagewilleithersigniﬁcantlyreduceseamefficiency,

or,resultinanunsightlyappearancethuscreatingseamfailure.

3.1.7seamslippage,n—insewnfabrics,amodeoffailure

inproductionseams.

3.1.7.1Discussion—Shownasatransverseratioofjunction

strengthtofabricstrengthincludingtheratioofelongationof

fabrictotheratioofelongationatthejunction.Seamslippage,

occurswhenfabricyarnsparalleltothestitchlinemove

away1ThistestmethodisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextilesandisthedirectresponsibilityofSubcommitteeD13.54onSubassemblies.CurrenteditionapprovedMarch1,2004.PublishedApril2004.Originallyapprovedin1990.Discontinuedin1999andreinstatedin2004asD1683–04.2ForreferencedASTMstandards,visittheASTMwebsite,www.astm.org,orcontactASTMCustomerServiceatservice@astm.org.ForAnnualBookofASTMStandardsvolumeinformation,refertothestandard’sDocumentSummarypageontheASTMwebsite.