coutaulds 验布程序英汉对照

INTRODUCTION WELCOME TO CLAREMONT GARMENTS We are a large garment manufacturing company, with factories situated thoughout the country, with the majority of these concentrated in the North East.Marks & Spencer are our largest customer, who only accepts our merchandise of high quality. Any garments that reach the shops which do not meet the standards that our customers expect, will automatically reflect badly on us as a Company. For this reason, it is essential that Claremont Garments operates as a team and ensures that all our departments are working to produce optimum quality products.The aim of this manual is to provide you with a basic introduction to the common types of fabric faults that can occur on fabric and their causes. This manual contains several fabric samples, which should help to provide you with a clearer understanding of fabric related problems.简介欢迎来到克莱蒙特制衣公司我们是一家大型的制衣公司，制造工厂遍布全中国，而其中大部分分布在东南沿海省份。

Marks & Spencer是我们最大的客户。

该公司对产品品质有极高的要求。

任何一件进入M & S 商店的衣服都必须符合所有M & S的品质规定，否则将严重影响我公司的声誉。

因此，我公司所有人员必须发扬团队精神，确保所有部门合作无间，以最优的产品品质服务顾客。

制作本手册的目的是为了对常见的布类疵点的分类及形成原因予以简单介绍。

此手册包括有几个布类样品，这将帮助你更好的理解布类相关问题。

梭织类梭织类布料是由相互垂直交叉的两组纱线，即经纱和纬纱，组合而成。

经纱沿整匹布的长度和布边平行。

每一条经纱都被称为“end”，每一条垂直于布边方向的纬线又称为“picks”。

针织类有两种主要的针织机器。

这两种机器织就的布都是由一连串相联结的纱线环组成。

COMMON TYPES OF FABRIC FAULTSCOMMON TYPES OF FARIC FAULT Clothing manufacturers often face many problems relating to the quality of “bough-in”fabrics. Most of these are usually identified during the inspection procedure, which is compulsory for every new batch of fabric. The nature of the fault varies, depending on the type and history of the fabric. The following calssifications briefly describe and outline the possible causes of common faults.Marks /stainsThis particular type of fabric fault is very common. This can be classed as any unwanted colour for example, dye, dirt or iron on the fabric. Possible causes of these generally result from poor house keeping. Obviously, depending on the type and extent of the stain, the fabric can be treated. 一般布类疵点的分类一般布类疵点的分类服装制造商经常要面对所买进的布批所出现的品质问题，这些问题大部分要在验布程序才能被发现，所以每一批新进布料都必须通过验布程序。

，不同的疵点具有不同特性，取决于布类的不同和疵点形成的过程的不同。

下面就疵点的分类和形成可能的原因简单介绍一下。

印痕/污渍这种布类疵点非常常见。

任何异常的不必要的污色如印渍、污渍、烫渍等都属此列。

此类疵点一般都是因为生产场所卫生极差所致。

很明显，根据污渍种类和程度的不同，我们将区别对待。

Broken picks and broken endsThis type of fault results from damaged theads. The source of this problem usually occurs during the weaving process, where ends and picks are broken.ContaminationThis can be recognised as coloured fibres or foreign bodies woven into the fabric. One possible cause of this fault is known as fly. This consists eg of airborne fibres falling onto the loom during weaving or onto the spinning frame during spinning. Consequently, the fly is woven/knitted into the fabric.Another, common form of contaminaiton can simply from soiled warp/weft yarn. Finally, polypropylene contamination originates from the packaging found on greige cloth. Contamination of this type is usually easy to rectify. However, there is very little chance that contamination caused by dirty yarn can be rectified. 断纱此类疵点是由断纱所致。

主要是由织布过程中的断纱所致。

色纱此类疵点是因为在织布过程中其他的纱线或其他物类被织进去所致。

其中一个可能的原因就是飞毛。

这主要是在织布过程中和纺纱过程中落于织布机上并被织进或纺进去的空气中漂浮的纤维。

飞毛就是这样被织进布匹的。

另有一些色纱是由污纱所致；还有一些聚丙烯色纱来源于原胚布的包装阶段----这种性质的色纱一般都很容易矫正。

但是由于污纱所造成的色纱就很难予以矫正。

Double/thick picksThey usually occur across the full width of the fabric. (selvedge-selvedge). They are simply seen as a thick thread running along the fabric piece. They are generally caused by yarn thickness irregularities or miss picking causing two weft threads woven in the same format. Weft line/starting pointProduce flaws across the width of the fabric. They are usually result of either missing threads, thick picks, loom stoppage/re-start and appear as a variation of construction density.HoleThese are simply caused by broken ends/picks or weaving on a damaged loom. Holes in a woven fabric are very rarely mended. However, holes found in knitted fabrics, dependant on the degree of fault can be returned to the manufacturer for mending. 粗纬此类疵点经常垂直于布边出现。

看起来就是一条平行于布封的粗纱。

一般来源于纱线粗细异常或者是两条纬纱被织进同一个纹路里面。

经纱疵点即垂直于布封出现的经纱疵点。

主要有漏纱、粗纱、横挡等，表现为布匹结构密度的差异。

破洞此类疵点一般是由断纱或在损坏的织布机上作业所造成的。

在梭织的布匹上出现的破洞很难修补；但是，在针织的布匹上出现的破洞根据程度的不同，有的可以退返织布厂修补。

KNOTSThis can be recognised as a round snarl of fibres. The snarling may occur during or prior to weaving. The major cause of knots is weaving with poor quality yarns, whereby knots are used to mend broken yarns during spinning.SlubsThese can be identified as short, abnormally thick areas in a yarn/fabric. These consist of an elongated snarl of fibre or a thick pick. The cause of this problem, resulting purely from poor quality yarn. In the case of linen for example, slub would be classed as acceptable, as this is a natural characteristic of such a cloth. (This can be seen in sample 6). Whereas the slub found in sample 5 is not typical of the cloth and would therefore be rejected. 大肚纱此类疵点是由一个纠结在一起的纤维结形成的。