服装制作的工作程序(doc6页)
服装制作的工作程序(doc 6页)
服装制作基本工作程序
基本工作程序
此标准以出口美国服装为基准,欧洲、日本及其他国家的服装可以参照此工作程序。
一定单规格表(款式样、批办样、产前样)1 •报价用规格表一款式样此规格表主要用于设计师看款式效果及生产的用料计算, —般情况下用同类布料打样,允许辅料代用,这步工作有时候已
由我们公司技术及样办中心完成。
对生产工厂来讲,此规格表仅仅是供报价用,以便争取到真正的定单,在运用这个表格时应注
i每个项目内容与规格,因为这些内容与规格往往同成本直接相
矢联,任何有利于降低成本而又不改变原有服装的基本要求的方法和建议都可以提出来,经我们公司同意后即可更改,所有在此规格表中变化的内容,都必须做出注释,以便下一步工作开展的时候前后对应。
2 •样品规格表Tit办样
此表主要用于打批办样。
批办样制作前,根据提供的款式样和样品规格表中具体要求逐项进行操作,检查样品的织物组织♦结构规格、测量所有的尺寸,确信各个点的尺寸在允许误差范围内。
把款式样和规格表给相矢的技术人员,审查各疑点难点,以便全面了解样衣的情况O原则上,打批办样用正式主辅料。
3 •大货生产规格表“产前样
一旦批办样被客户批准合格后,此时客户才提供正确的大货生产用规格表,只有这个产品规格表才是供工厂大货生产用。
如果用以前的规格表代替,经常会发生差错,因为经过打样后,客户常更改原有的尺寸,而这个尺寸的更改又往往是不起眼的,在大批生产经营之前,还须打一次样,叫做产前样,在制作这个样衣中,所有的主敷料都必须用以后生产中要用的料,客户完全认可后方可大批开裁。
二・工厂的评估
一般情况下,定单下新工厂之前,我们质监部门要对工厂进行
打分评估,本公司有质监部门专职人员负责执行这项工作,质监
部门将这个评估结果转给生产部做参考,以便生产部了解该厂的优
弱点,在生产跟踪时会注意到他的侧重面,是我们考虑和衡量工
厂生产质量、能力的一种有效依据。
原则上对于达到某一标准之后的生产企业方可生产本公司的订单,当然也有可能本公司或最
终客户指定专职评定公司来完成这项工作。
三■颜色的确认
一般订单,要求厂家提供至少每组三个颜色以上,A \$ W给
予我们的客户挑选确认。
有时候部分工作,会要求工厂直接同用
户的实验室联系>这样可以减少环节,减少准备时间。
四・查布
对于一般的产品贸易,工厂对进来的布料必须进行10%的抽
查,这些工作有时候有第三者和中间商完成特别注意重点查验:
数量、规格、缩水率、色牢度、缸色差、左右色差・前后色差、
强度、布面疵点,所有这些检查记录必须保存下来,以便我们或客户的随时抽查,证明工厂在做这个工作。
五■色差限定
从理论上讲,要求每匹剪2, X 2'的小布样与标准颜色进行对
照,在实际执行时,工厂裁剪部门要每匹对照,对不同缸号,应严格区分,并对照颜色,当染色质量不稳定时,更须严格监视。
六■裁剪
确信裁剪准确,裁剪须每天检查,检查被裁部分全部按纸板要求裁,同时检查上、中、下层位置差异不得大于18。
七・生产线上检验
任何管理是企业内部的事,但我们作为客户,要求工厂须有生产线上质量控制系统,只有这样才能够减少或消除生产线上流出来疵点产品。
工厂应该做到随时抽样每捆半成品要有号码标记,如果有疵点发现,必须有明确的贴纸或其他标记,说明是接受还是返工 > 同时还有日期、操作工的姓名(或代号)、疵点名或号码,线上检查员对另键的操作部位要重点检查,特别注意到将引起整个质量问题的疵点,要在整个管理方面注意并争取必要的防
范措施。
A・成品检验
产品出运前,必须对所有的产品作100%的检查,如果返修或
重新整理,会影响出运。
工厂应注意 :产品的组织结构、尺寸规格、颜色和文件应该全部准确。
最后的检验时通常用A Q L的水平代
表产品质量的水平,在AQ L标准的具体内容中 > 还包括了采取的方式、方法以及接受返修数的标准,具体每个定单A Q L标准并不相同,这同定单的大小,最终质量要求、客户有矢,一般比较多的是AQL4.0,当然也有少量的2.5或6.5。
几家美国公司要求如下:
成品做工及性能AQL水平T) S D高要求4.0,MENYRE/0SD4.0,TARGET4.0 成品尺寸AQL 水准织6.5,针织10.0这三家公司在美国的成衣生产中具有代表性,对有不同的公司在生产过程中本公司会通知
AQ L标准,没有通知基本是这个水准。
九・水洗测试
消费者是最后的质量检验员,为方便消费者购买到满意的产品,产品水洗后的性能要能达到设计时的要求,工厂做衣服水洗
主要是以下几个步骤:―测量长度b・.按洗麦指示作c・.拿出放2 小时d・•按洗麦指示做e・.再洗2次f••缩后(长X宽)g・・采用灰色板 > 对照成品变化情况,然后总结评语和结论,如果工厂没有采用美国标准水洗,衣服到美国后将在实验室重做,在水洗的测试中 >各国有很大的差别,我们国内与美国的方法也大不相同,
:后选定的测试方法,应该是销往哪里,采用哪里的标准。
而最
十・服装成品测试V前样
所有衣服装船前,按我们要求作成品标准测试,服装的材料品种不同,测试内容各不相同。
在装船前送到我们指定或认可的实验室,进行有矢项目的测试,测试地有生产厂本地的,也有美国的或第三个国家。
测试合格,贝峨们仓贮物流部安排出运。
服装厂生产流程与检验标准
服装〔制衣〕厂根本生产流程与检验标准1.梭织服装制作根本工作程序 1.1定单用规格表〔款式样、批办样、产前样〕梭织服装在制作前要先填写好定单规格表,按照制作服装的不同样办,定单规格表可分为以下几种类别:报价用规格表------款式样款式样此规格表主要用于设计师看款式效果及生产的用料计算。
一般情况下用同类布料打样,允许辅料代用。
对生产工厂来讲,此规格表仅仅是供报价用,以便争取得到真正的定单,在运用这个表格时应注意每个工程内容与规格,因为这些内容与规格往往同本钱直接相关联,任何有利于降低本钱而又不改变原有服装的根本要求的方法和建议都可以采讷。
所有在此规格表中变化的内容,都必须做出注释,以便下一步工作开展的时候前后对应。
1.1.2样品规格表------批办样批办样此规格表主要用于打批办样。
批办样制作前,根据提供的款式样和样品规格表中具体要求逐项进展操作,检查样品的织物组织、构造规格、测量所有的尺寸,确信各个点的尺寸在允许误差范围内。
把款式样和规格表给相关的技术人员,审查各疑点难点,以便全面了解样衣的情况。
原则上,打批办样用正式主料和辅料。
1.1.3大货生产规格表------产前样产前表此规格表主要是批办样被客户批准后客户才提供的表格。
只有这个产品规格表才是供工厂大货生产用。
如果用以前的规格表代替,经常会发生过失,因为经过打样后,客户常更改原有的尺寸,而这个尺寸的更改又往往是不起眼的,在大批生产经营之前,还须打一次样,叫做产前样,在制作这个样衣中,所有的主料和辅料都必须用以后生产中要用的料,客户完全认可前方可大批开裁。
1.2服装生产根本工艺流程服装生产根本工艺流程包括布料物料进厂检验、裁剪、缝制、锁眼钉扣、整烫、成衣检验、包装入库等八个工序。
1.2.1布料物料进厂检验布料进厂后要进展数量清点以及外观和内在质量的检验,符合生产要求的才能投产使用。
把好面料质量关是控制成品质量重要的一环。
通过对进厂面料的检验和测定可有效地提高服装的正品率。
服装厂生产流程与检验标准
服装(制衣)厂基本生产流程与检验标准1。
梭织服装制作基本工作程序1.1 定单用规格表(款式样、批办样、产前样)梭织服装在制作前要先填写好定单规格表,按照制作服装的不同样办,定单规格表可分为以下几种类别:1.1。
1 报价用规格表--———-款式样款式样此规格表主要用于设计师看款式效果及生产的用料计算。
一般情况下用同类布料打样,允许辅料代用。
对生产工厂来讲,此规格表仅仅是供报价用,以便争取得到真正的定单,在运用这个表格时应注意每个项目内容与规格,因为这些内容与规格往往同成本直接相关联,任何有利于降低成本而又不改变原有服装的基本要求的方法和建议都可以采讷。
所有在此规格表中变化的内容,都必须做出注释,以便下一步工作开展的时候前后对应。
1。
1.2样品规格表—-————批办样批办样此规格表主要用于打批办样。
批办样制作前,根据提供的款式样和样品规格表中具体要求逐项进行操作,检查样品的织物组织、结构规格、测量所有的尺寸,确信各个点的尺寸在允许误差范围内.把款式样和规格表给相关的技术人员,审查各疑点难点,以便全面了解样衣的情况.原则上,打批办样用正式主料和辅料.1.1.3大货生产规格表-—--—-产前样产前表此规格表主要是批办样被客户批准后客户才提供的表格。
只有这个产品规格表才是供工厂大货生产用.如果用以前的规格表代替,经常会发生差错,因为经过打样后,客户常更改原有的尺寸,而这个尺寸的更改又往往是不起眼的,在大批生产经营之前,还须打一次样,叫做产前样,在制作这个样衣中,所有的主料和辅料都必须用以后生产中要用的料,客户完全认可后方可大批开裁.1。
2服装生产基本工艺流程服装生产基本工艺流程包括布料物料进厂检验、裁剪、缝制、锁眼钉扣、整烫、成衣检验、包装入库等八个工序。
1.2。
1布料物料进厂检验布料进厂后要进行数量清点以及外观和内在质量的检验,符合生产要求的才能投产使用。
把好面料质量关是控制成品质量重要的一环。
通过对进厂面料的检验和测定可有效地提高服装的正品率。
服装制衣厂基本生产流程与检验标准
服装(制衣)厂基本生产流程与检验标准1. 梭织服装制作基本工作程序1.1定单用规格表(款式样、批办样、产前样)梭织服装在制作前要先填写好定单规格表,按照制作服装的不同样办,定单规格表可分为以下几种类别:1.1.1报价用规格表 ---- 款式样款式样此规格表主要用于设计师看款式效果及生产的用料计算。
一般情况下用同类布料打样,允许辅料代用。
对生产工厂来讲,此规格表仅仅是供报价用,以便争取得到真正的定单,在运用这个表格时应注意每个项目内容与规格,因为这些内容与规格往往同成本直接相关联,任何有利于降低成本而又不改变原有服装的基本要求的方法和建议都可以采讷。
所有在此规格表中变化的内容,都必须做出注释,以便下一步工作开展的时候前后对应。
1.1.2样品规格表 --- 批办样批办样此规格表主要用于打批办样。
批办样制作前,根据提供的款式样和样品规格表中具体要求逐项进行操作,检查样品的织物组织、结构规格、测量所有的尺寸,确信各个点的尺寸在允许误差范围内。
把款式样和规格表给相关的技术人员,审查各疑点难点,以便全面了解样衣的情况。
原则上,打批办样用正式主料和辅料。
1.1.3大货生产规格表 --- 产前样产前表此规格表主要是批办样被客户批准后客户才提供的表格。
只有这个产品规格表才是供工厂大货生产用。
如果用以前的规格表代替,经常会发生差错,因为经过打样后,客户常更改原有的尺寸,而这个尺寸的更改又往往是不起眼的,在大批生产经营之前,还须打一次样,叫做产前样,在制作这个样衣中,所有的主料和辅料都必须用以后生产中要用的料,客户完全认可后方可大批开裁。
1.2服装生产基本工艺流程服装生产基本工艺流程包括布料物料进厂检验、裁剪、缝制、锁眼钉扣、整烫、成衣检验、包装入库等八个工序。
1.2.1布料物料进厂检验布料进厂后要进行数量清点以及外观和内在质量的检验,符合生产要求的才能投产使用。
把好面料质量关是控制成品质量重要的一环。
通过对进厂面料的检验和测定可有效地提高服装的正品率。
服装产品开发制作流程图
◇定货会样衣的筛选
(续表)
任务
名称
节点
任务程序、重点及标准
相关资料/表格
标准
◇保质保量完成样衣开发任务
(一)产品开发制作流程图
单位
研发中心总监
设计部
采购部
面辅料仓库
技术部
企划部
样衣展厅
节点
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
编制单位
流程所有者
(二)产品开发制作工作标准
任务
名称
节点
任务程序、重点及标准
相关资料/表格
确定研发方向
B2
B3
A3
E3
程序
1、产品企划案
2、产品开发任务表
◇设计部收集国内外相关新产品信息、本企业的产品销售信息、客户需求信息、竞争对手信息及行业流行信息等,并进行分析整理,掌握同类产品最新流行趋势,确定新产品研发方向;
◇讨论并制作新产品企划方案(包括:款式、色彩、面料、辅料、版型、工艺、价格等)及新产品开发任务及时间表,报研发中心总监审核后实施;
◇同时与采购部、技术部沟通进行面辅料及新版型的开发。
重点
◇制定准确的新产品企划
标准
◇符合公司品牌定位,适合当季流行趋势
图稿论证和
程序
1、面辅料申请单
2、设计图稿
3、材料配发一览表
◇根据开发任务及不同系列风格进行图稿设计;
◇对设计图稿进行论证、修改,审核面辅料与设计风格协调统一;
服装加工工艺流程
服装加工工艺流程服装加工工艺流程是指将设计好的服装样板通过一系列的制作工序,最终完成成品服装的过程。
服装加工工艺流程的质量和效率直接影响着成品服装的品质和生产周期。
下面将详细介绍服装加工工艺流程的具体步骤。
首先,服装加工工艺流程的第一步是纸样制作。
纸样制作是服装加工的重要环节,它直接影响着服装的版型和修身效果。
在纸样制作过程中,需要根据设计图纸,将各个部件的尺寸和形状按比例绘制在纸板上,然后进行裁剪和拼接,最终得到完整的服装纸样。
接下来是裁剪工艺。
裁剪工艺是将纸样上的轮廓形状按照一定的规则和要求,利用裁剪机械或手工进行裁剪,得到各个部件的布料。
在裁剪的过程中,需要严格按照纸样上的尺寸和形状进行操作,确保裁剪出的布料与设计要求完全一致。
然后是缝制工艺。
缝制工艺是将裁剪好的布料按照设计要求进行缝制,包括缝纫、熨烫、装饰等工序。
在缝制过程中,需要根据设计图纸和工艺要求,选择合适的缝纫机和线材,进行针脚和线迹的精细调整,确保缝制出的服装具有良好的质感和外观效果。
最后是整烫和包装。
整烫是指将缝制好的服装进行整烫和整形,使其具有平整的外观和合适的版型。
在整烫过程中,需要根据服装的面料和款式,选择合适的温度和压力进行整烫,确保服装的质量和外观达到要求。
包装是最后一道工艺环节,将整烫好的服装进行包装,包括折叠、包装袋的选择和标识等工序,最终完成成品服装的生产。
综上所述,服装加工工艺流程是一个复杂而又精细的过程,需要各个环节的紧密配合和精湛技艺的操作。
只有严格按照工艺要求进行操作,才能保证成品服装的质量和效率。
希望本文的介绍能够对服装加工工艺流程有所帮助,谢谢阅读。
服装加工流程步骤
服装加工流程步骤
服装加工,那可是一门超级有趣的艺术呢!从一块普通的布料到一件漂亮时尚的衣服,这中间经历了好多神奇的步骤呀!
先来说说设计吧,这就像是给服装注入灵魂一样!设计师们得脑洞大开,想出各种新奇独特的点子,就像画家在空白画布上挥洒创意,要让衣服变得与众不同,有个性,能吸引人的眼球。
然后就是选布料啦,这可不能马虎!不同的布料有不同的质感、手感和特性,就像不同的人有不同的性格一样。
要找到那块最合适的布料,能完美呈现设计的效果,让衣服穿起来舒服又好看。
裁剪可是个技术活呀!就像雕刻大师精心雕琢作品一样,要精准地把布料按照设计的形状裁剪下来,不能有一丝一毫的偏差,不然可就前功尽弃啦。
接下来就是缝制啦,这就像是给服装搭建骨架。
工人们用他们灵巧的双手,一针一线地把各个部分缝合起来,让衣服有了形状,有了轮廓。
这难道不是很神奇吗?
还有啊,细节决定成败!那些小小的扣子、拉链、装饰,都要精心处理,就像给蛋糕加上最后的糖霜,让衣服更加完美。
烫整也很重要呢!把衣服烫得平平整整,让它看起来更加整洁、精神,就像给它做了一次美容。
经过这么多步骤,一件服装终于诞生啦!这可不是简单的一件衣服,这是无数人努力和智慧的结晶啊!这不就像孕育一个新生命一样吗?难道你不觉得服装加工的过程超级神奇,超级有趣吗?服装加工,真的是一门充满魅力的艺术,让我们的生活变得更加丰富多彩!。
服装制衣厂基本生产流程与检验标准
. .服装制衣厂基本生产流程与检验标准----------------------- -----------------------日期:服装(制衣)厂基本生产流程与检验标准1.梭织服装制作基本工作程序1.1 定单用规格表(款式样、批办样、产前样)梭织服装在制作前要先填写好定单规格表,按照制作服装的不同样办,定单规格表可分为以下几种类别:1.1.1 报价用规格表------款式样款式样此规格表主要用于设计师看款式效果与生产的用料计算。
一般情况下用同类布料打样,允许辅料代用。
对生产工厂来讲,此规格表仅仅是供报价用,以便争取得到真正的定单,在运用这个表格时应注意每个项目容与规格,因为这些容与规格往往同成本直接相关联,任何有利于降低成本而又不改变原有服装的基本要求的方法和建议都可以采讷。
所有在此规格表中变化的容,都必须做出注释,以便下一步工作开展的时候前后对应。
1.1.2样品规格表------批办样批办样此规格表主要用于打批办样。
批办样制作前,根据提供的款式样和样品规格表中具体要求逐项进行操作,检查样品的织物组织、结构规格、测量所有的尺寸,确信各个点的尺寸在允许误差围。
把款式样和规格表给相关的技术人员,审查各疑点难点,以便全面了解样衣的情况。
原则上,打批办样用正式主料和辅料。
1.1.3大货生产规格表------产前样产前表此规格表主要是批办样被客户批准后客户才提供的表格。
只有这个产品规格表才是供工厂大货生产用。
如果用以前的规格表代替,经常会发生差错,因为经过打样后,客户常更改原有的尺寸,而这个尺寸的更改又往往是不起眼的,在大批生产经营之前,还须打一次样,叫做产前样,在制作这个样衣中,所有的主料和辅料都必须用以后生产中要用的料,客户完全认可后方可大批开裁。
1.2服装生产基本工艺流程服装生产基本工艺流程包括布料物料进厂检验、裁剪、缝制、锁眼钉扣、整烫、成衣检验、包装入库等八个工序。
1.2.1布料物料进厂检验布料进厂后要进行数量清点以与外观和在质量的检验,符合生产要求的才能投产使用。
服装加工工艺流程
服装加工工艺流程
《服装加工工艺流程》
服装加工工艺流程是制作服装的重要流程,它包括了设计、裁剪、缝制、整烫、包装等环节。
下面将分别介绍这些环节。
首先是设计,这是服装加工的起点。
设计师根据市场需求和潮流趋势,进行服装款式和面料的设计。
设计完成后,就进入了裁剪环节。
裁剪师根据设计图样,根据布料的尺寸和数量进行裁剪,确保布料的利用率和服装的尺寸准确。
接下来是缝制环节,裁剪好的布料会被送往车间,经过缝纫工进行缝制。
缝纫工会根据设计要求,使用不同的缝纫机进行缝纫,然后再进行线迹修整和剪线。
完成缝制后,就进入整烫环节。
在整烫环节,服装会被送往整烫车间进行整烫处理,目的是使服装保持平整、顺滑和整齐。
最后是包装环节,这是服装加工的最后一步。
包装工会将整烫好的服装进行清洁、折叠和包装,然后打包装箱,做好售前的准备工作。
以上就是服装加工工艺流程的主要环节。
每个环节都需要经过严格的操作和质量检验,才能最终保证出高质量的服装产品。
服装加工工艺流程的完美执行,对于服装生产企业来说至关重要,它直接关系到了产品的质量和竞争力。
服装基本制造流程
服装基本制造流程Generalities on sewing needs for Different GarmentsThe requirements for the manufacture of specific garments:The garments to be manufactured lead to designing the process of manufacture, which forms the basis of the sequence of operations in the sewing room, whose work content is measured by their standard times. Further the type of garment strongly influences the stitch type selected and the basic machinery used in the operations. The large component in the workplace layout influences the size of work-place required for the operations. The organization of inspection also stems partly from the type of garment.The feasible way to plan the production for the manufacture of specific garment is to produce a manufacturing specification sheet, from which we could state the general requirements to direct the method to making up the garment. For example, operation, machine type, seam type, stitch type, stitch density, and quality requirement (if possible).Method to prepare specification sheet:a.Analyse the structure of the specific garment.b.Break down the operation required to produce the requirement of eachcomponent, for example: the specific feature designed in the garment will require special methods, equipment, and attachment to be used to satisfy the requirement.c.Determine the suitability of the present equipment and machinery, which willinfluence the method to be used to make up the garment.pile the customer’s requirement, quality requirement and tolerance.A. General manufacturing workflow for garments:Design Pattern marking Sample making Spreading Marker making Pattern Grading Cutting Fusing Bundling Sewing Finished Garment FinishingB. General manufacturing processes for garments:1) DesignThe first step in producing a garment is the creation of the design and the construction of patterns for the components in the design. A good apparel design has three parameters:- emotional appeal (style), utility, and durability.The apparel manufacturer measures style objectively with a relative scale –the profitable scale of the product.2)Pattern makingThe designer creates specific products in accordance with the trends. The Pattern maker drafts the pattern necessary to produce the creation. Apparel pattern are made with one of two basic methods:-a.Draping the garment on a form or model with muslin or the fabrics usedto make the garment. The production pattern is traced from the muslin orfabric cuts. (Tailor Made)b.Drafting the pattern on paper with either direct measurements for thepattern or developing the pattern draft with the aid of a sloper (basicblock).3)Sample makingIn the garment industry, it is traditional to indicate the requirement by means of a sample garment. The sample may be mock up (quickly make) of the designers or purchasers basic idea or requirement or it may show the requirement in detail.The sample is necessary to illustrate those aspects of design and manufacture which it is not possible (of practical) to describe in detail in words e.g. shapes of collars, pockets, flaps, etc. In general, it is possible to illustrate many of the features by means of drawings or photographs, but people engaged in garment production would usually find engineering type drawings difficult to understand without special training. Hence, the use of samples can ensure the manufacturer to understand the types of garment requested by customer and the correct production methods used for the further bulk production.a) Types of samples:Basically, there are Four types of samples:1.Initially sample2.Approval sample3.Salesman sample/Size set sample4.Shipment sampleI)Initially samplesPreparation:a) Material: should be the same material as requested by customers or as closeas possible if unavailable.b) Colour: try to match the requirement if possible.c) Accessories: Use the exact requested accessories or as close as possible.Inspection:a) Dimension: measurement should be kept as the production sheet ifindicated.b) Silhouette: according to the design illustration.c) Design detail: should follow the sketch exactly.d) Fitting: take care of the effect of cutting whether it is in proportion to thehuman figure and the drafting effect etc.II) Approval samplesPreparation:a) Material: should use the same material as requested by customers.b) Colour: match the requirement.c) Accessories: use the exact requested accessories.Inspection:a) Dimension: measurement should be kept as the production sheet as well asthe measurement chart.b) Silhouette: must be kept according to the design illustration.c) Design detail: should follow exactly the production design sheet.d) Fitting: take care of the effect of cutting whether it is in proportion to thehuman figure and the drafting effect etc.e) Sewing faults:- stitch formation; - stitch tension; - seam slippage;- seam puckering; - needle heat and so on.III)Salesman sample (size set)Preparation:a) Material: must use the same material without any alternation.b) Colour: Any colour selected from customers in the order sheet.c) Accessories: must use the exact requested accessories.Inspection:a) Dimension: measurement should be kept as the production sheet (sizespecification).b) Silhouette: must be kept according to the design illustration.c) Design detail: should follow exactly the production design sheet.d) Fitting: Take care of the effect of cutting whether the pattern could makeaccordingly and it is in proportion to the human figure and its drafting effect.e) Sewing faultsIV) Shipment sample (Production sample)Everything must be conformed to the customer’s requirements.4)Pattern gradingIt is the drafting process of enlarging or diminishing a style pattern into patterns for other sizes. The function of grading is to see that this is accomplished with proper fit for the other size without changing the style sense of the original model.5) Marker makingBefore the cutter can begin his cutting operation, he has to have some plan of operations. Marking the fabric itself, in its simplest form, was originally marking in round a pattern the shape to cut by means of crayon, chalk or other making implement. The first step in calculating the optimum marker design is determining the basic geometric design of the marker. This is done by inspecting the grain markings on the patterns. The second step is to list or note the length of the warp and filling dimension in each pattern. Since most patterns are not rectangular, this means that two or more measurements must be taken for each dimension. The third step differs slightly with respect to the basic design type. The patterns that widths are marked in parallel formation across to the width. In patterns with tapered widths, maximum interlock efficiency results by inverting the alternate patterns in a manner, which interlocks a narrow width with a wide width. The marker makes notes the upright and inverted correlation’s required equalling the full width of the fabric. The application of pattern engineering is the shifting of seams to make the best use of cloth width. In one case, three trouser backs could be laid in 43” and four trouser fronts in 47”. The cloth width available was 45” and by shifting the side seam adding1/2” to the backs and taking 1/2” from the fronts, it was possible to lay three backs and four front in exactly 45”.6) SpreadingThe cloth is brought to the cutting table to be laid, ply on ply, or in single plies. The cloth may be spread on the table manually, or by machine. The procedure of cloth spreading is the placing of the material on the cutting table, laying one piece upon another, to a predetermined length. In giving consideration to the use of machinery, volume is usually the deciding factor, although quality and handling may be factors as well. Spreading is made easier by the use of spreading machines. Good spreading should result in a lay, in which each ply lies perfectly flat, without tension.7) CuttingAfter spreading, the marking-in must be carried out, so that the cutter will know what shapes and in what manner he is to cut up the lay. Marking-in may be done by marking directly on to the cloth, using perforated markers or by using paper markers. After marking-in the cutting operation is carried out.This may be by means of a portable cutting machine to do the entire operation, or dissecting the lay into sections with a cutting machine, and then cutting it ona band-knife. For some applications it is possible to cut the entire lay by usinga die-press machine. After the various parts have been cut, the cut parts arepassed into the sewing room. Various pieces of equipment are used during the procedure of spreading, marking and cutting.8) FusingIt is a method of joining fabric parts using techniques similar to pressing. Just as pressing uses heat, pressure and moisture to obtain its effect, so fusing uses heat, pressure and sometimes moisture, but during a measured time span, to obtain to its effect. The aim of fusing is to bond interlining to outer fabric in such areas as collar, cuffs, facings, lapels, edges, pockets and foreparts. The active agent in fusing is the resin, which coats the interlining. When interlining and outer cloth are pressed together under heat the adhesive resin melts and flows into the outer cloth. When the pressure is released, the fused parts cool, the resin solidifies and the bonding is complete. The factors to consider are the type of coating the type of resin, methods of testing the bond, the process itself, and equipment for fusing.9)BundlingA number of garments tied up together for carrying in some production systemof clothing industries. The manner of folding or superposing the plies in the bundles should be such that there is (a) minimum or no creasing, and (b) minimum or no disarraying of the cut alignment. Any deviation from these two principles increases the pick-up and positioning time for the sewing operator. (Bundling can be done before or after fusing).10)Necessary procedures for some special design of garmentsa)Pleating skirt, we need to overlook and hemming and then send out forpleating.b)Embroidery, smocking, quilting, pin tuck etc.c)Re-cut or Re-bundle after the (a) or (b) process.11) SewingThe principles of garment construction concern:-The assembly of fabric parts to make a garment,-The addition of working parts to enable the wearer to put on and take off the garment-The decoration of the garment by stitching on the surface of the fabric and -The insertion of pockets whether decorative or functional sewing quality standard do strongly influence besides the style and design of the specific garment and the type of fabric and blends of the fibre content.They will affect the choice of:- Seam type - Attachment/Guides requirement- Stitch type - Workplace design- Stitch density - Handling method- Sewing thread - How to breakdown the operation- Sewing machined used (related to a & b)12) FinishingThis including hemming, washing, buttonholes sewing, button sewing, trimming, hand-stitch, final pressing and final inspection. The need to press garments during and after manufacture is a basic requirement to form and shape a specific design. The effect is to give an eye-catching appeal to the wearer, to present a clean and smart appearance, together with a distinctive and flattering silhouette. Under-press and off-press of a specific will be different according to the physical requirement and the quality standard:-(a)Type of pressing equipment used(i)Hand iron(ii)Steam iron with or without heating element(iii)S team press (Hoffman type) with special Buckse.g. sleeves, collar, shoulder, open seam.(iv)Steam body former(v)Shirt ironing system and folding system(vi)Ironing table(b)Temperature, pressure & vacuum adjustment(c)Pressing methodFinal inspection – tolerance and the standard of quality control will affect the inspection method used to measure the acceptance of the order, this is strongly subject to the management policy:(a)Workmanship(b)Dimension(c)Packing detailsPacking may have two major functions: distribution and merchandising. The basic types of package forms used in apparel and allied products are bags, boxes, cartons & cases.C.Special problems related to the specific garment1)Different types of garment would have different production problems.They might be caused either one or more of the following factors:A. Design of the garment – Pattern cutting, material used, and the make up ofGarment.B.Customer’s requirements –special effects added to the specific garment,Adjustment and particulars.C.Quality requirements – Seam type, stitch type, tolerance etc.The special problems to make up the specific garment in the production processes may be classified as:i)Cutting problemsii)Fusing problemsiii)Sewing problemsiv)Pressing problemsBesides the manufacture process, there may be a special problem in packing specific garment.2)Special problems in making up a specific garment are caused by:a.Nature of material used – fabric, sewing thread, interlining, lining andAccessories used etc.b.Machinery and Equipment use – cutting tools, spreading method related tothe machine used, fusing machine, ironing and pressing equipment have a close relationship to tackle the special problems of specific garment.c.Making up method used – the handling method used at the workplace,special skill required, and the skilfulness of individual operative.d.Effectiveness of Quality Control and Inspection.Special problems of specific garment sometimes could be found as weanalysed the operation and structure of the garment. But it is not easy topredict the problem to be happened even though we prepare the approvalsample. It would be created in actual production as the above captioned causes.Stitch, Seam and StitchingStitch Formation:Definition of StitchA stitch is one unit of conformation of thread resulting from repeatedly passing a strand or strands and /or a loop or loops of thread into or through a material at uniformly spaced intervals to form a series of stitches.British Standard classification of Stitch typesSince the invention of the sewing machine, improvements, advances and changes in machines and in the art of sewing have resulted in many new stitches and machine types. These different types are referred to by names or terms which very widely throughout the industry. To avoid the confusion caused by this multiplicity of names it is proposed, hereafter, to refer to stitches according to the British Standard scheme, set out in BS 3870: 1965 which classifies stitches as shown below.For the sake of precision in describing these stitches the following three terms are defined in the British Standard.Interlooping: The passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed by a different thread.Intralooping: The passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed by a same thread.Interlacing : The passing of a thread over or around another thread or loop of another thread.ClassificationStitches are divided into eight classes, within each of which are several types of stitch. The characteristics of each class are indicated below together with some typical applications.Stitch Class:100 SINGLE THREAD CHAINSTITCH200HANDSTITCH300 LOCKSTITCH400TWO-THREAD CHAINSTITCH (MULTI-THREAD CHAINSTITCH) 500OVEREDGE STITCH (OVERLOCK STITCH)600COVERING STITCH (FLAT SEAM STITCH)700SINGLE-THREAD LOCKSTITCH800 COMBINATION STITCHStitch Class 100 ChainstitchThese are formed by one or more threads introduced from one side of the material only. Single thread chainstitches are often used for temporary stitching (e.g. basting) or for blind stitching. Particular care is required to prevent runback from the last stitch.Stitch Class 200 Hand StitchThis class of stitch is formed by hand with one or more needle-threads and has for a general characteristic that each needle-thread passes through the material as a single line of thread and the stitch is secured by the single line of thread passing in and out of the material or intralooping of the threads with themselves. When more than one thread is used, the threads pass through the same perforations in the material (e.g. type 201 Saddle stitch). Origination as hand stitches they are now often formed by machines.Stitch Class 300 LockstitchLock stitches are formed by a needle thread or threads, introduced from one side of the material, interlacing with an underthread supplied from a bobbin on the other side. The simplest, type 301, has similar appearance on both sides with low bulk when correctly balanced and tight strong seams can be produced with good strength and abrasion resistance. Its disadvantage is the limited length of sewing possible before having to replace the bobbin. In applications requiring stretch, types 304, 321 or 322 can be used wherein successive stitches form a 1, 2, or 3 step zig-zag pattern.Stitch Class 400 Two-thread Chainstitch (Multi-thread Chainstitch) These differ from Class 100 stitch types in that a separate under or looper thread is used and this generally lies on the underside of the material, the needle thread(s) being drawn through to balance the stitch.These stitches are sometimes referred to as Double Locked Stitches (not to be confused with Class 300) because each needle thread loop is interconnected with two loops of one underthread. Several needle threads may be used in conjunction with one looper thread.Because of the stitch geometry the two thread chainstitch type 401 is stronger than a similar lockstitch and less likely to cause seam pucker due to structural jamming. It is capable of being formed at lower tensions, thereby increasing seam stretch and has a productivity advantage over the lockstitch because the threads are fed directly from long edge packages without the interference of bobbin winding/changing.The disadvantages are that it has lower resistance to runback and increased bulk under the seam. However, these effects may be minimised by the use of a fibrous or textured thread in the looper. The looper thread can generally be one size finer than the needle thread without loss of strength. They may also be sewn in a zig-zag pattern to increase seam stretch as in types 404 and 405.Stitch Class 500 Overedge Chainstitch (Overlock Stitch)This class of stitch may be formed from one or more needle and/or looper threads with at least one thread passing round the edge of the material being sewn. There may be many variations within this class, incorporating from one to four threads, only one of which is needle thread. They are generally used to neaten the cut edge of a single ply of fabric or to seam or neaten the edge of two plies in one operation – particularly in knitwear since this stitch configuration has excellent stretch and recovery properties when sewn with suitable threads. The needle thread determines strength, while the looper threads are chosen for best appearance and softness.Also in this class are a number of stitch types, which incorporate three or four threads, two of which are needle threads. The second needle thread, being further from the cut edge, gives greater security to the seam compared to the single needle version. As the looper thread runs between the two needle threads under the fabric these seams also have good extensibility.Stitch Class 600 Covering Stitch (Flat Seam Stitch)The stitch types in this class utilise between two and four needle threads, generally one looper thread and one or two cover threads. The cover threads(s) lie on the top surface, held down by the needle threads and the looper thread(s) interloop with all the needle threads under the fabric as in stitch type 607 illustrated.All these stitches are highly elastic and product flat, comfortable, good wearing seams joining pieces of material, which butt together but do not overlap. For this reason, the looper and cover threads must be chosen to give seam strength as well as a soft handle. They are often called covering stitches and the most complex, employing four needle threads, one covering stitches and the most complex, employing four needle threads, one covering thread and four looper threads is known as Flatlock stitch and has the best security to its class.Stitch Class 700 Single Thread LockstitchThis class of stitch is formed with a single continuous needle-thread and has for a general characteristic that at the penetration of the first stitch a portion of the needle-thread is wound onto a reel in the lower mechanism of the machine. The stitches are formed by interlacing the needle-thread with the thread wound on the reel. The interlacing of this stitch class, except for the initial stitch, is identical to that of Stitch class 300.Stitch Class 800 Combination StitchThis class of stitch is formed with rows of stitch types from two or more different stitch classes sewn simultaneously, at a specified distance from the edge of material and a specified distance from the edge of the material and a specified distance from each other.Seam FormationDefinition:A seam is a joint consisting of a sequence of stitches uniting two of more pieces of material and is used for assembling parts in production of sew items.Classification:Seams are divided into 4 classes, within each of which there are several types of seam. The characteristics of each class are indicated in below:- a)Class SS (Superimposed)This class of seam has for a general characteristic that the plies of material are superimposed and joined with one or more rows of stitches.b)C lass LS (Lapped)This class of seam has for a general characteristic that the plies of material are lapped and jointed with one or more rows of stitches.c)Class BS (Bound)This class of seam has for a general characteristic that it is formed by folding a binding strip over the edge of one or more plies of material and joining the plies and binding strip with one or more rows of stitches.d)C lass FS (Flat)This class of seam has for a general characteristic that it is formed by uniting the abutted edges of material in such a manner that the stitches extend across and cover, or tends to cover, the edge or edges of the plies joined.StitchingDefinition:Stitching consists of a sequence of stitches for finishing on edge or for ornamental purposes or both, in preparing parts in assembling.Classification:Stitching are divided into classes, within each of which there are several types of stitching. The characteristics of each class are indicated in below:- a)C lass OS (Ornamental)This class of stitching has for a general characteristic that a series of stitches are embodied in a material either in a straight line, a curve or following a design for ornamental purposes.b)C lass EF (Edge Finishing)This class of stitching has for a general characteristic that series of stitches are formed at or over the edge of the material, the edge being either folded or not folded, or that the edge of the material is folded and joined to the body of the material with a series of stitches.。
制衣工艺流程
制衣工艺流程制衣工艺流程是指在服装生产过程中,从设计到成品的一系列工艺步骤。
它包括了面料准备、裁剪、缝制、整烫、检验等环节,是制作服装的关键步骤。
下面将详细介绍制衣工艺流程的各个环节。
首先,面料准备是制作服装的第一步。
在这一环节中,需要对面料进行验货、裁剪、缝制前的处理等工作。
验货是为了确保面料的质量符合要求,裁剪是根据服装设计图纸将面料裁剪成所需的零部件,而缝制前的处理则包括洗涤、熨烫等工序,以确保面料的干净整洁。
接下来是裁剪环节。
裁剪是将面料按照设计图纸裁剪成各个零部件的工序。
在这一环节中,需要根据设计要求和面料的特性来进行裁剪,确保裁剪出的零部件尺寸准确、面料利用率高。
然后是缝制环节。
缝制是将裁剪好的各个零部件通过缝纫机缝制成服装的工序。
在这一环节中,需要根据设计要求和工艺要求来进行缝制,确保线迹平整、牢固,符合服装的外观要求和使用要求。
紧接着是整烫环节。
整烫是指将缝制好的服装进行整烫处理,使其外观平整、线条流畅。
在这一环节中,需要使用烫台、蒸汽熨斗等工具,对服装进行整烫处理,使其外观更加美观、整洁。
最后是检验环节。
检验是制衣工艺流程中非常重要的一环,它是为了确保制作出的服装质量符合要求。
在这一环节中,需要对服装的尺寸、线迹、面料等进行严格的检查,确保服装的质量达到标准要求。
综上所述,制衣工艺流程是服装生产中至关重要的一部分,它涵盖了面料准备、裁剪、缝制、整烫、检验等环节。
只有严格按照工艺流程来进行操作,才能制作出质量优良的服装产品。
希望本文所介绍的制衣工艺流程能够对您有所帮助。
